Was wondering if anyone had the model number for the regulator?
And how to fit one?
Thinking my one has died on me

Have read through afew threads about people with alternator problems
But they all had battery lights come on
In my case the battery light doesnt come on, on a rare occurance the anti-lock light does
Have charge my battery and got it tested also, all checked out ok but my charger said it was faulty
I've read that replacing the reg is a temp fix and is better to get a new one or recon
Would it be the same in my case?
Have a brand new reg here but if its better to get a new alternator i'll just get one

Cheers

I think it's a RE72...like the one in this link....http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&clk_rvr_id=241136151342&item=280530672840

the bosch alternators are a well engineered unit, and as such you could get away with just putting in a new reg (genuine bosch... dont get me started on some of the aftermarket crap out there).
main things to take into consideration are mileage and slip ring condition; if the ring is deeply grooved (>0.5mm) then it is best to get it machined; and if the mileage is high (>200,000km) then have the unit refurbished.
chances are that if the unit gets replaced then it wont be a genuine bosch unit, and if it is then you're gonna pay a small fortune for it.
if reconed properly then the unit will get many more years of service.

if you need then i can do a good price on a reco of your unit (just not this weekend)

Well i wacked the battery back in today charged up some and tested the battery
Was only reading at 14.3 volts while the car was on idle then slowly dropping in voltage
Alternators only done about 63,000 k's so should the whole thing need to be refurbished?
Where are the rings so I can inspect them?
Got given the wrong regulator so going back to get the correct one, and its a genuine bosch unit yes. Paid a small fortune lol

Anyone know the correct number for the bosch regulator replacements?
The one in the car was a 9 191 067 050, but have been told they dont make them anymore
Have been given a 9 191 967 059 which looks the same all around but they werent sure if its the correct unit
Anyone know?

Turns out isnt the regulator as I tried the new one and have the same thing
So either its the alternator itself or a loose ground
Have checked all fuses and there is no draw anywhere
Any ideas which grounds to check that could cause loss in charge?

the reg will be right if it is physically the same

slip ring is internal so you will need to open the unit to access it

have you checked your output at the alternator output (directly on the bolt not the nut) and its case?
if it is doing the same then your problem is likely to be internal

also place a voltmeter between the alternator output and the battery positive (on the battery post) and there should be no more than 0.25V drop
then do the same from the alternator casing to the battery negative post and again no more than 0.25V drop

a hot connection is a good indication of a bad connection
also check the connections in the distribution box as they can cause issues

Have left a mulit-meter on the terminals to see what its doing
Starts at 14.3 volts then hear a thud and its drops to about 13.5 volts all the way to about 12.2 volts
Tried on the output bolt and got the same, then suddenly jumped back to 14.4 volts so doesnt stay consistant
I'll see if I can get another alternator off someone to see if its the alternator or not
I notice at night that the headlights dim for some then brighten back up soon after

I'd say you have a dud cell in your battery that is dropping out whenever it feels like it.

Hmm im not sure if its the battery or not
Done some more tests today and seem whatever the alternators putting out its matched at the battery
So dont think theres a fault in the wire
Will source an alternator to see if its faulty or try another battery

mate i had the same issue, i wish you done a search - would've saved yourself a bit of cash. Alternator test will show that everything is fine because it is only a sudden drop in faultage (ie not constant), its not a ground problem either.

I bought a alternator (from madmagna) with 100km on the clock for $85 and fit was around $40. Solved the exact same problem that you have!! Mind you just fitted the straight reco and its sweet as, my mates magna has 400km on the clock and still runs the orginal alternator, so it seems like luck of the draw with these things ahaha.

Before bought a battery (200) and brushes (80) which was a complete waste of cash. Do a search (jap_spec_te) and you can see the detailed tread. Good luck :)

Havent spent any money lol, I looked at your thread and you had the light flickering, I dont have the light flicker
Took the part back today as wasnt needed and also got another battery test done today
Tested showed battery was faulty 100% charged at 29% capacity
Will ring a mobile auto-sparky tomorrrow for another load test on the battery

lol had the same issue, was told the battery was only 10% capacity or the likes - still was the alternator

When you have your light on, to find them diming on idle and when u accelerate slightly them come back on?

1998 TF Advance: We have had the lights dim at idle ever since we have had the car. Slight rev and the lights brighten up again. When the air conditioner cuts in, same thing - lights dim. The car has done it since we bought it (11 years, 225000 km ago) and until the alternator stops charging, it will continue to do it.

No the lights dim while driving aswell
Got the battery load tested today
Was only putting out 430CCA's and its a 750CCA battery
Alternator was tested also and output was good (14.5 volts)

Ok, thought I would post up saying that we have now fixed the problem
Wouls like to say a big thanks to Ash (the_ash) for helping me fix this problem

Was really a number of things that were causing problems
Wires on the battery terminal were loose so retighten them (I have aftermarket terminals)
Negative terminal was alittle loose aswell, again due to aftermarket ones that were being abit iffy at times
A loose bolt or nut inside the alternator itself
All this that more then likely made the regulator shit itself
So replaced it and all is sweet now :D