Hey guys.

I've got a 1986 TM SE (Astron II), Manual box etc sitting in the drive way. Car is very dear to me, and it's the only vehicle I've ever owned. It's full of rust, it's missing the drivers wing mirror, and it's 5 days before the rego expires.

Engine and transmission however are really pretty darn solid!

I've been offered $100 for it to drive away as scraps. They'll collect it.

What should I do in this situation? $100 for a car I paid $600 for about 7 years ago seems pretty reasonable to me, but, could I pull it apart and sell parts to others for a worthy cause? Would anyone actually *Want* the parts?

Just looking for some direction here.

Thanks guys!

z

Feel your pain had to do something similar with a Elante recently. The way I rationalized it was it had been a good car got me everywhere I wanted to go reliably but it was no longer the safest or most economical car of this size and was going to cost more to fix (the body) than it was worth. I took it to the scrap yard said my goodbyes and moved on to a TJ.

Ring around, a few scraps places like to beat others offers, you might be able to get 150-200 without stripping it. If it goes to a metal place, it might be worth pinching the lights and any other easy stuff off it and putting them on ebay.

i would be intrested in fixing it

i would be intrested in fixing it

Sure am in Brissy. South side.

What kind of $ would you be willing to part with for her? I'd certainly feel better about giving it to someone that can get some joy from this, than a wrecker, if it's attractive in terms of $.

z

ok i ll pm you about details

buffy has a new project

Casper II

white sedan TM manual carby

bit of rust to deal with but for its age its a beaut

good engine degrease and a bit of tinkering

pictures to follow soon

:-). All is well. I'm glad the car has gone to you mate. You'll make it shine!

z

casper two
this time its staying white
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/casper2a.jpg
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/casper2.jpg

everything else works nice
jobs to be done
timing chain rattle/door handle
extractors /mags/lots of little rust spots to tackle
fit power steering system
more pics later

go buffy good to see you back in a gen 1. got a elite going to the crusher . if you wont the efi convert all yours pm me

magnaman89 I will keep this a carby unit its very stable and running beautifully:eeek:

efi conversion will happen when the govt stops producing unleaded

dam nice to be sitting in a first gen again :facejump:

Wow. You can actually retro-fit this to have power steering?! Impressive!

z

Wow that awesome :D Buffy is once again behind a wheel of a magna :D

dont like going to magna cruses in anything other than a magna
so glad the car wasnt scraped

Casper ll
got only a few fixable problems
got a water leak and an oil leak
cv boot broken tie rod end

the rust repairing is going to be the issue
will take lots of time to be done right

update
rust in the front chassis looks tricky
might leave that for a pro

I need a d/s rear door and a d/s front mudguard
both too rusty to repair

That would be sweet if you would come to a cruise then we could line up all the generations :D What an awesome photo that would be lol

so glad the car wasnt scraped


I am too. I was worried it was going to end up that way, until you came along. Lots of people just told me to scrap it, but I was sure it was more valuable to someone else. That, and the engine runs so well, I reckon!

z

For anyone interested in South Australia (Adelaide) , scrap metal for cars is about $150-$160 per tonne at a metal recyclers. I recently took a TP magna wagon to a metal recyclers at Aldinga (south of Adelaide) and got $240 for it, the car weighed just over 1500 kilos and they gave me $160 per tonne. I inquired at the Hackham west metal recyclers, but they gave me some BS about draining the fuel and punching a hole through the tank for them? Their price was $150 per tonne. Still have the 5 factory alloys off it with good tires > http://adelaide.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-parts-accessories-wheels-tyres-rims-ROH-Alloys-5-15x6-inch-4x114-3-PCD-All-Tires-195-60-R15-88H-W0QQAdIdZ289131275

this car is so good mechanically

rust was in usual places doors and some sills

this is the only nasty bit ....hidden behind the front guard
the lower part of the guard just fell off to reveal all


http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/frontrust.jpg

Dont ever get a scrap metal mob to come collect the car unless you are desperate. If you take the car to a scrap metal place they would give you around $200 for it. If they come to you its $100.

Good to see the car was saved from satin..:)

Yeah. I put the Gerni over that bit last week and noticed a bunch of rust and dirt fell out of it! Guess it was worse than we thought initially! Will you weld new plate to it to reinforce it?

z

new metal in its place

no worries at all

its good to see your restoring another 1st gen buffy i love your work mate!

More PHOTOS :D, good work buffy. This car is the same age as me lol

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/frontrust.jpg[/QUOTE]

was able to drill out and retap the two rusted bolts (lower part of picture)
that you need to hold the bottom of the mudguard on

now has a solid mounting point of metal
and can just bolt on a replacement guard safely

other
stopped the top oil leak ok and degreased the engine bay
might need a timing cover seal
has one noisy tappet now
slight chain rattle (typical )

took it for a run today
just on the side streets
still waiting on the guard and door I was offered
its washed and looks good drives beaut ..not registered yet
got mags to fit to it and a cv joint
pics when i can

found more rust in the car
some in the chassis
but fixable
about to take the motor out
and remove the balance shafts

the kit was only $52 so I have the time
and the chains are rattling badly

so why not



I always thought the manual steering was heavy
but this car doesnt need powersteering in it
quite a surprise

Brings back memories of my first Magna.

Brand new April 1985 build SE manual sans power steering.

Fitted it with wider wheels & tyres and man it was heavy to steer in tight situations, my (ex) wife refused to drive it!

Pretty much identical to this one other than colour and build date.

I had rust problems in the roof and window/door sills, but nowhere else.

Mechanically it gave up the ghost after 100,000 km, maybe coz I wound it out through the gears too far and too often!

KJ.

well all the rust is repaired
some sanding and paint to come

front suspension replaced bushes & better tie rods fitted
motor out and removed the balance shafts
another sump pan

mags fitted
new brakes up front
(intresting fact the manual d/s cv joint is shorter
than the auto cv shaft same side)
rebuilt the cv shaft
broken tortion bar bracket fixed
rusted out door and guard replaced earlier still good
s/h timing cover

so almost ready to get back on the road:ninja:


buffy

the car is in good hands with you buffy wish you where in vic

wow good to know about the cv shafts, yer its amazing u can fit all the gen 1 parts from a tn, tp on thoes tm's

the km120 boxes or what ever they were in the tp have the same cv's as the auto as it seems. i left the auto ones in all i needed to change way the relay shaft as its got a different bracket,but is the same size.
maybe its only the older ones with the vacuum operated 5th that have a different drive shaft? either that or my manga has driven 30,000 with the wrong drive shafts lol

going in for a safety cetificate

see if the rust repairs hold up to std

hope to have it registered next week

good luck buffy!

the km120 boxes or what ever they were in the tp have the same cv's as the auto as it seems. i left the auto ones in all i needed to change way the relay shaft as its got a different bracket,but is the same size.
maybe its only the older ones with the vacuum operated 5th that have a different drive shaft? either that or my manga has driven 30,000 with the wrong drive shafts lol

I had a TP once, bought it with stuffed driveshafts. Bought a set from the wreckers, mine was a manual, the donor car an automatic. All I had to do was change over that relay shaft support. So you are on the money, auto and manual shafts are the same. (As long as both are 2.6L 4 cylinders, but then I don't think the V6 was around then.lol)

going in for a safety cetificate

see if the rust repairs hold up to std

hope to have it registered next week
its a buffy fix it will pass