I'm going to change my rotors when I do my pads next week, figured it's best to do the lot so I know it's all good, but after watching some clips, reading threads etc, I'm kinda caught on what to get. I understand the normals last longer, but let's face it, they're not as nice looking as the drilled. Than there's the slotted type which don't seem to warp as much as drilled, on the other hand you can get them slotted & drilled :yeahthat:

So here's my scenario. I don't drive slow, I never have driven slow since I got my L's (after 3 failed attempts for, guess, speeding) 20 odd years ago so I need stopping power. I don't drive like a maniac, just fast. Contradicting I know, but there's a difference. Fast is simply fast, maniacs don't watch traffic and pedestrians and do it to show off. I'm just, fast. You get the idea. So, for maximum stopping power, slotted & drilled? I don't care about needing to changing every 2 or so years, I just need to stop.

Cross drilled rotors are worthless. Don't bother with them; the drilling removes enough of the disc surface to effectively lower the total braking area. Slotting could almost be considered overkill for street driving, as just about every car with slotted rotors won't ever see the brake temps that make slotting effective. They are quite good at keeping your pads from glazing though, so there's one benefit to them.

Brake pads and fluid are far more beneficial to stopping power on a street car. A good quality DOT 4 or 5.1 fluid, with good pads, will do just about every street car.

So guess that's 1 to standard rotors hey

Is this for a 3rd Gen? Why not do a 380 front brake upgrade? Twin Pistons work well.

Yep, 3rd gen

save your cash and just get some blanks with good pads, flush the brake fluid and you should be sweet. if you have half decent rubber i think the stock brakes should suffice, just let em warm up before you start your spirited driving,
i to drive fast, to the point where i am never overtaken... have the same car as you, and have'nt really had a problem... you just have to push the peddle a little bit harder if needed.

+1 for the 380 upgrade mate. I've done it on mine and am running slotted (380) rotors, and Bendix ultimate pads. The setup brakes fantastic, you will easily feel the difference!!

I've tracked my car as well with this setup and honestly can't fault it. Brilliant stopping power, for a quarter of the cost of Brembo's!

Are you finding you breaks are not good enough? I got mine to fade once, but I rarely drive that hard.

Well I would reply why the stopping power is needed but apparently that's worthy of 2 infraction points so I just hope ya read it before it was deleted. Never knew a bunch of guys having a yarn was such a big no no. Wonder how many points this will bring me...

Yeah I read it... Cross drilled I have heard can crack a lot more easily (e.g. hot brakes + drive through a puddle), slotted I think is about the same for street use compared to standard. 380 front brake setup I think is about 550$ from mitsfix with std. rotors and qfm pads, 2nd hand calipers and lines.

I can vouch that the 380 brake upgrade is definitely recommended, this is what I have fitted on my car. Improvement over stock is unbelievable, you can absolutely smash the brake pedal straight to the ground at 150km/h and you'll be down to 50 in an instant. This is speaking for experience on the track (seriously, WSID - Been a couple times, thought what better place to do a brake test).

I am using stock pads, stock rotors and there is atleast double the braking power. Even more to be had with upgraded pads. Slotted/drilled rotors wont do much for you on the street, the drill holes tend to crack. The wiper slots are designed to keep your pads clean.

SO the 380 upgrade it will be than. Thanks heaps guys :D

Just to give you a price guide, a wrecker should charge between $200-350 for: Calipers, Lines, Pads, and Rotors complete ready to bolt on. Call around.

Sweet as. Cheers :)

+1 for the 380 upgrade mate. I've done it on mine and am running slotted (380) rotors, and Bendix ultimate pads. The setup brakes fantastic, you will easily feel the difference!!

I've tracked my car as well with this setup and honestly can't fault it. Brilliant stopping power, for a quarter of the cost of Brembo's!

I got my complete Brembo front set up for cheaper than the 380 packages you see around lol

/endgloat

Where where??

Don't mind him, he got them off a friend with more money then sense. One thing he isn't telling you is that when his rotors and pads were out, he is up for about $1000 for the fronts ONLY.

Brembos on average will cost around $2000-2500 fitted.

Don't mind him, he got them off a friend with more money then sense.

LMAO! Well, maybe I'll just stick with a 380 upgrade

lol the guy was a stranger, just a lucky find - and yes he does have more money than sense.

You are right though, it's expensive to replace.

Not sure how often I'll be replacing them though as they're designed to be abused on a track, and I'm not exactly stomping my brakes at 180 too much :P

Cost probably won't be as bad as it sounds when value over time is considered.

You can find full sets of front and rear Brembos for around 1.5k but god knows the condition of the pads and rotors.

Oh yeah, when Life says the guy has more money then sense:

He owns an Evo 8 MR as his track car - medium level of mods
He owns some BMW 3 series as his daily.
His dad has a Porsche GT3 track car.

And get this, his mum drives C63 AMG that she takes on the track as well.

Was that a dig at innocent little old me? ;)

I just find the standard TF brakes too weak so figured time to find out what's the best option. I'll be swinging for the 380 upgrade. Now to find a wreckers that has them for a good price. I got 2 to choose from. Wish me luck

Ah that post was directed a Dean (Life)

Definitely go for the upgrade though, the standard brakes are piss weak and tbh dangerous if you like driving a twisty road once in a while.

I remember I went on an AMC cruise to Macquarie Pass when I was on stock brakes.

After it was done, I was stopped at the lights and if I wasn't STAMPING on the brake when it was stopped, the car would inch forward. (This was when it was still Auto)

The Ralliart brakes are also very good but hard to find.

The 380 ones are even better than these and much more common.

Go for it, it'll be one of the best mods you do.

Go for it, it'll be one of the best mods you do.

Second best. When T_Double_U was telling me about 3.8 upgrade and than MadMagna made me drool by confirming he can supply it. I guess stopping power is up there as being one of the best mods ;) lol

Guys, have done a little more tidying up here as this is a no spam area.....

Back on topic, the 380 upgrade is a good upgrade in any terms, be it for every day traffic driving or on a decent drive in a controlled area such as a track day. The awd/ralliart brakes are not bad but still the 380 have it over them

I have them listed on Fleabay at the moment for $300 per set, have 3 sets available at the moment as well. Not sure what local wreckers would charge, from what I have seen is anywhere from $300 to $500

My opinion: Don't buy cross drilled rotors. They will crack. Buy slotted rotors if you don't mind spending a bit more money.

Is it true slotted rotors eat the pads much quicker?

The KJ verada series II brakes seem quite good..Is there a big difference by upgrading to the 380

Are there any legal issues when doing this brake package upgrade ?

Is it true slotted rotors eat the pads much quicker?

No. It all depends on the pad compound. Some brake pads are passive and will be dusty but let the rotor eat into them. Some pads are aggressive and may be less dusty, but will eat the rotors a bit more.


The KJ verada series II brakes seem quite good..Is there a big difference by upgrading to the 380

Yes. Big difference. KJ series 2 front brakes = 276x22(?)mm with single piston calipers. 380 front brakes = 294x28(?)mm with twin piston callipers.


Are there any legal issues when doing this brake package upgrade ?

Technically maybe as the 380 brakes weren't an option on a Magna. But, the 380 and Ralliart brakes are so close no one would ever know.

Technically ou need it engineered but as disciple said who's gonna know lol

The KJ verada series II brakes seem quite good..Is there a big difference by upgrading to the 380


Yes. Big difference. KJ series 2 front brakes = 276x22(?)mm with single piston calipers. 380 front brakes = 294x28(?)mm with twin piston callipers.

i can vouch for this. my car is a KJ2 and i've done the 380 brake upgrade, it's stops a hell of a lot better than with the old single pots. don't need to mash the pedal as hard or as early (if i'm driving spiritedly), and it's quite responsive! however, with my current brake pads i've found them to be a little numb when they're cold- but work very well when they've got heat in them

I bought the 380 upgrade package from Mal (Mitsifix), and I can definitely say that this upgrade is well worth the time and money to any Magna. Stopping power is almost unbelievable. When I hopped into my wife's KF with standard brakes it felt like she had no brakes at all. lol

Is there anymore to do than a straight swap to the verada or is it that simple

That simple. Obviously you need to bleed as well but that's all.

Well, like I said, 2 wreckers to choose from and neither have ANY 380 bits. Guess the hunt is on...

Is there anymore to do than a straight swap to the verada or is it that simple


That simple. Obviously you need to bleed as well but that's all.

For a 380 brake conversion you would also need to replace the front brake lines to 380 ones as the Magna and 380 lines are different. But other than that, it's a straight swap.

This is an interesting topic as I am seriously planning this upgrade.

One question still remains that I have not seen asked / answered, wheels ?

I have a 2003 KJ XI series 2 with standard alloys, will these fit with the 380 brake upgrade ?

Cheers ChrisB

For a 380 brake conversion you would also need to replace the front brake lines to 380 ones as the Magna and 380 lines are different. But other than that, it's a straight swap.

They are just longer, is no problems using them.

This is an interesting topic as I am seriously planning this upgrade.

One question still remains that I have not seen asked / answered, wheels ?

I have a 2003 KJ XI series 2 with standard alloys, will these fit with the 380 brake upgrade ?

Cheers ChrisB

I can confirm that they'll fit with the 16's. (I trial fitted them before I got my 18's)

Thanks for the info hojo

Cheers

I changed from standard rotors to slotted ones and I felt the difference straight away with braking improving a lot. ABS kicks in much more often in the wet.

Remember that your braking is ultimately down to your tires. If you apply more braking G's then they can handle then its really academic how great your brakes are.

Will the 380 brakes bolt onto a 1997 Magna, i am guessing i would need bigger than 15 inch rims but is there much dif between what i assume is a gen 1 to a gen 3 in that area. I am new here only got my first Magna yesterday so forgive me if i sound like a noob. I can tell you all you need to know about modifying Valiants but Jap stuff is all new to me

By the way i did a brake upgrade on my VF Valiant to a late model valiant caliper and slotted rottors and it made a big differance. The rotor size was the same but went from a solid disc to slotted and vented and i could have got the slotted and drilled ones for about $100 bucks more but was told the crack. Even V8 supercars only use slotted and not slotted and drilled.

Oddly enough, I changed out the rotors and pads on my TF, all the advice I got was to go with solid rotors, so a bloke found me some Teflon coated rotors for 44 bucks each, the biggest Bendix pads available and I never complained about stopping power again, cost 200 bucks with a fluid flush

Teflon coating? LOL