http://picturestack.com/178/640/0RfdoorsillsCMPl.th.jpg (http://picturestack.com/178/640/0RfdoorsillsCMPl.jpg)

What do I need? Ive been told that the front and rear both need replacing, as do the swaybar bushes.
Replacement costs from mits:
MI-AW343164 - 23mm swaybar bushings: 2@$3.80 ea-sounds good
MI-MR223864 - Bush lower arm (front?): 2@$48.90 ea-not so good
MI-AW343831 - Clamp assy-hyd-LH (rear?): $82.70 -bit expensive
MI-AW343832 - Clamp assy-hyd-RH (rear?): $82.70 -bit expensive

so $270 all up in parts

Group buy Nothalane/whiteline thread - http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81237

FRONT
$58.00 Control arm - lower inner front45361 (pair?)
$90.00 Control arm - lower inner rear45442 Std replacement - suits slide on pin with lock nut (pair?)
$90.00 Control arm - lower inner rear45443 LH offset - RH std alignment - suits slide on pin with lock nut (pair?)
$90.00 Control arm - lower inner rear45445 Std replacement - suits slide on pin without lock nut (pair?)
$90.00 Control arm - lower inner rear45446 LH offset - RH std alignment - suits slide on pin without lock nut (pair?)

$148+swaybar bushings, which sounds like a more reasonable cost, but do I need a locknut or a slide on pin type, and whats the difference? And a LH offset or a standard pair?
I've heard that red nothalane is too hard for suspension bushes for normal use, and I can't seem to find any listings for whiteline ones. Asked at Bursons (used to be motor traders here) and they had blue SuperPro ones or similar for $54 front and $113 or $158 rear depending on weather it had a lock nut or not.

long story short: OEM bit too expensive, aftermarket not sure on what to get.

id be interested to know about nolathane , as i need bushes for the upper rear a arm , if it is a replaceable press in part

go nolathane. We use those at work and being a solid bush they will last Much longer.

Ok here goes.

Do you feel that your steering is too light, or does the car pull to the left.
If so urethane bushes are the way to go.
You probably have the pin type. Put head under car just behind the mud flap - look forwards. At the rear of each lower control arm there is a bracket that is bolted to the floor of the car. Back end of this you should see a pin poking out from the bush. Therefore pin type. If there is a nut then it is the bolt type.

Bushes come in a standard alignment or an increased castor one. I.e. the centre of the bush is offset.

If you want to make the steering a little heavier and improve roadholding then increase the castor on BOTH sides.
If the car pulls to one side then increase the castor on that side ONLY.
Most likely the rear bushes are not that good.


Front bushes and the sway bar mount bushes are relatively easy to change.
The difficult ones are the rear bushes. They are pressed in. So you need push out and in adaptors and ideally a workshop press.

I had my rear bushes changed to increased castor ones a couple of years ago. For what I wanted this is a highly recommended change.

Gerry


You can also buy aftermarket rubber bushes. Have a look at the Mackay catalogue to see if they do them.

hey guys i need to change the control arm bushes on my car, i bought nolathane set, but i want to be sure 100% that its the correct one before i open the packet.
the part is Control arm - lower inner rear 45442 Std replacement - suits slide on pin with lock nut

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn177/lowridermagna/5b9d409a.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn177/lowridermagna/78e41df9.jpg

Personally I will only use the original rubber bushes. For starters they last a lot longer than these plastic ones and in addition, the sleves are boneded unlike the poly ones which slide around.

Yes the Poly is an improvement over a dead rubber bush but I have known many who have gone poly and then gone back to rubber and been grateful that they did this

People complain about a bush costing what it does, ffs, it has lasted over 10 years, it is not such a bad deal when you look at it

Timi, I have the same issue with the wifes KF...I'm interested to see how you go...I'm inclided to go with the rubber rather than nolathane (as Mal already said)...I took it to Mitsi dealer to see what they would quote me to do the entire front bushes, they quoted me around the $600...needless to say, I'd rather do it myself...let me know which way you go, and what you decide...I will be doing the same.

Also the pin and bolt difference on the control arm varies based on whether its a Magna or Verada from my observation.

Edit: For the front sway bar bushings 23mm I would go with nolathane, only because I was told that I will notice a better improvement.

I'll give these a go and see how they feel.
But have I bought the correct set? And are they pressed in? There is a press and dads I can use. Which I did for the wheel bearings, that wasn't a fun job

im sold on nolathane, i replaced my rear upper a arm outer bush recently and was a huge improvement, no more twitchy rear end. i tried replacement rubber but they wore quickly and seperated, due to lowering mainly.

Apparently urethane is a bit hard for day-to-day use in control arms, (but ok for swaybars) and rubber will disintegrate again really fast with how much oil is going everywhere, so I'll do it when I do my engine or soon after.

Can anyone tell me if I bought the right kit or not?
looks like the right one, just wana be sure before i open the pack