I have a Nov 06 380 Platinum on about 176,000k's. When accelerating under load, which doesn't have to be all that much I get a rattling sort of noise which sounds like it is coming from deep within the engine. This happens between about 1000rpm and 2100rpm. I noticed it about 10,000k's ago (2 months or so) and it is becoming louder and happening more often. It is fairly muffled still within the car, however I am unsure how load it is outside as if I open the window to listen I cant hear it. It is a similar sort of noise that quite old cars sometimes have when accelerating under some load before they die. I am running it on 98ron fuel and has been run on mobil1 5w50 oil for the last 60,000k's, changing every 10, although the oil that came out each time was very black and sludgy. Not sure what this is. I am worried it might be something quite serious. Any ideas?

Your oil should NOT be coming out "sludgy" after 10kms!. do a fresh oil change, check/replace your air filter, clean the O2 sensor. it could be pinging.. so the noise coes away when you rev it harder?

I assume you mean "every 10,000KM" above for your oil change, which still shouldn't be black and sludgy.
Hopefully the rattling sound isn't the infamous bottom end crank issue that blackstar had (search forum on this, and below thread) as his car did die shortly after. Other notorious engine rattles you will find on this forum relate to lash adjusters, injector noise and the evaporative emssions valve, which numerous people have experienced and discussed on the forums (these last sound more like noisy tappets than the bottom end crank). Search on thes starting with this thread here: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78695
If yours is Nov 06, then it should still be uner warranty yeh? Why not drop it into a stealership?
Cheers,
RG

warranty expires at 160 thousand or 5 years. Which ever comes first. Unless your the original owner where you got the full 10 years if i'm correct.

change your oil to Shell Helix Ultra I use it as it has high cleaning agents every now and again

But the oil is doing its job if it is black as it is collecting deposits in the engine.
Flame away but the black in oil is Carbon deposits

who changes the oil you or your Mechanic/dealer

warranty expires at 160 thousand or 5 years. Which ever comes first. Unless your the original owner where you got the full 10 years if i'm correct.

5 year / 130,000, 10 year / 160,000kms.

5 year / 130,000, 10 year / 160,000kms.


hmm good point , didn't spot the km's , bugger for the OP.

5 year / 130,000, 10 year / 160,000kms.

Actually it is 6 years / 130,000, 10 year / 160,000kms,

Mitsubishi stated in a press release issued about the time of production end "Mitsubishi Motors Australia also announced that all past and future private buyers of new 380’s will also be provided with an extension of their already industry leading warranty terms, to six years."

http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.au/about-mitsubishi/latest-information/news-releases/archive/view/mitsubishi-motors-to-pursue-full-import-strategy-for-australia
(http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.au/about-mitsubishi/latest-information/news-releases/archive/view/mitsubishi-motors-to-pursue-full-import-strategy-for-australia)

Unfortunitley this does not help the OP

Hi there,
Two checks and the answer should be clearer
The oil drain plug has a magnet to catch any small metal shards in the motor so please check the next time you drain the oil if it has metal then it is probably terminal
The oil sounds like it has 2 contaminants in it 1 carbon (dark effect) and is normal for good thin synthetic oils
SLUDGY suggests there is water or more likely coolant in it, so is it using coolant?
If so there is a blown head or head gasket or both
If not get a mechanic to do a pressure test to confirm, good luck Regards Kevin

Yes I did mean every 10,000ks. The noise does go away at higher revs, either that or I just can't hear it anymore due to engine noise. I do the oil changes myself but last time I had it done by a mechanic. Maf was cleaned the other day when I was having issues with the fuel air mix which has now been rectified. Oil does not seem so much sludgy as just black and dirty and seems a bit thick. Been speaking to a few people, they suggested that maybe the timing is out and that the belt may have stretched.

Ummmm no the sump plug for the ENGINE does not have a magnet, even if it did, brass and alloy make up of bearings would not stick to it as they are non ferrus metals.

Check your cats in your manifolds, I had one in about 2 weeks ago, customer had been told was a big end bearing gone, while the early 380's had issues with main bearings, this was not internal, turned out was the rear cat rattling inside the manifold. Not sure why it let go but it did and gave the exact symptoms you have described.

The sludgy oil, being a fully synth oil, this will not behave the same way as a mineral based oil even if you have a blown head gasket, while it is worth checking to see if any coolant loss what you describe certainly does not sound like a coolant issue

The noise could also be one of the outer acc belts or even a timing belt idler pulley on its way out as well.

A big end or main bearing knock is very destinctive and should be very easy to get diagnosed

What were the main bearing issues for early 380's ?

hi is the noise worse when the motor is cold and improve on warm up usually bearing noise happens when oil is cold and thick

hi is the noise worse when the motor is cold and improve on warm up usually bearing noise happens when oil is cold and thick

yes, in the morning it is really bad. as the engine reaches operating temp it improves. i am thinking of upping the oil from 5w to 10w at next change. dont know if this will help? car is currently on 177,000ks

You know I've noticed this on my car slightly. Also noticed it on my parents VZ commodore. And even our old camry. was always when under a a slight load coming up inclines if the revs weren't particularly high.

only thing i can suggest is let it get to operating temp before driving

You know I've noticed this on my car slightly. Also noticed it on my parents VZ commodore. And even our old camry. was always when under a a slight load coming up inclines if the revs weren't particularly high.

yes that's exactly what it is.