This one is more so for guys with 20" wheels.

I've now sheered 3 wheel studs since I've had my 20" wheels on

I've made sure they're not torqued ridiculously tightly or anything like that, I've had them rotated by a workshop and they said they're fine, but is there anything else I should be looking at..?

SuFz

Were these the original wheel studs or new ones that have sheered again?
I've sheered two wheel studs in the last 2-3 months (original Ralliart 17" rims). I originally blamed the last tyre place I went to.
...but with the ones I broke, another TJ owner I know with one recent sheered wheel stud and now you as well...
I was just wondering if these have a life span and could be more prone to breakage as they get older?

They're the original ones..

108,00kms.. 8yrs in November

My TF has nearly 300,000kms and I never had an issue..

I thought maybe the wheels are heavier and are putting stress on them or something like that..

SuFz

Being aftermarket rims, is the weight only on the studs or on the centre bit as well?
ie. is the centre hole (whatever it's called) the right size for our wheels. If not (if it's too big) and there's no weight on it, then the whole weight of the rim (and any road bumps/shocks) is being loaded onto the studs only/first.

I use centric hub rings on my aftermarket rims to match the hub size. Keeps the rims centred on the hubs and distributes the weight and stops vibes.
If the wheels aren't centred they tend to "bounce" as you drive creating pressure on the studs, may also explain some complaints about steering wheel shakes at speed.

As said above, center bore is extremely important.
Having wheels with the wrong size and no rings will cause all the weight of the car to sit on the studs. You can guess how well that will end.

It also depends on the wheels themselves, too. A good example is putting VE wheels on older Commodores. If you do this, prepare for a snapped stud fest because VE studs are just slightly different from older ones.

Well.. I've got the hub rings for the centre of the hub, so they sit snug..

I'm guessing I'll just buy studs in bulk and keep my ratchet, hammer n wheel studs in the car.. LOL!

SuFz

Got a link to your wheels on the net Sufz

Advanti Stella

BTW.. Happy Birthday Old Man! 21.. Great age!

I just wanted to check the PCD before I said anything, wisdom comes with age......... sometimes..

How do all the studs look in the holes before you put the nuts on? Just a thought, worth checking the PCD.
There never was recall on wheel studs on magna's...Where's Bently!!!!
Perhaps they were replaced with sub-spec ones, be interesting to see if you do the same stud twice.

These ones here are EXACTLY the same, they've just changed the name! (Thank you Advanti Rep)

http://www.advantiwheel.com/specs/a2_traktion_silver.html

SuFz :ninja:

Is it the same wheel every time or all over the place? I haven't had any problems with my Advantis & they are very similar to yours in pattern & size.

Just the two fronts..

First the Front DS.. then Front PS.. Now Front DS again..

SuFz :ninja:

Hmmm strange, if you have the correct hub centric rings on there I can't see why it would keep breaking them. Are the hubs nice & clean & free of rust behind the rims? Maybe theres a little bit of crap on the hubs throwing it out of whack?

When we replaced the studs at the last QMD workshop.. One of them has broken.. but two on the other side have broken.

I checked the car at a mates workshop on the weekend and looked for any movement in the wheel at all and NOTHING..

Did find that my CV Boots split and all 4 shocks are leaking, but either then that.. she's fine!

SuFz

Might just be weakish studs.
20x8.5 Advanti load-rated (ie, bloody heavy) might put just a little too much strain on them.

Other than that, i can't see anything else that could do it. Unless they're balanced wrong and have massive vibration, but you wouldn't drive it around like that.

Maybe you need supercharged 380 wheel studs ;)