Hi guys, I'm new here but I ahh.. got given my mothers 87 TN Magna SE (automatic, carb) when she upgraded to a Getz to replace my gas guzzling Ford XD, and I have a few small problems and was wondering if any one can point me in the right direction to fix some of them, given I've just put over a grand (with labor etc) worth of Reco'd engine and shocks into it after it's previous one cracked the head and had the alternator seperate from the engine.

Basically the issues i'm having are:

1. The Taco don't work at all, even though the Instrument Cluster has been changed etc it just simply refuses to work.
2. The Heater doesn't work at all, ontop of this the wing slider for the fan goes -off - work - off - work - work. (but i think 1 and 3 are the exact same).
3. My Int wipers don't work at all, 1 and 2 do, but when you turn them off they do not go back to park either.
4. Central Locking has had it's fuse removed because it was happly causing the battery to drain.


My main concerns at the moment are the Heater and the Int Wipers given their RWC issues, I really want to get the car up to snuff because 1 i've poured a bit of money into her, two she has Crusier Control and well three honestly she's still in body etc wise really good nick..

I have a feeling the Wiper issue could be the actual motor and when one of the family next go to bendigo i've got them checking the wreckers down there for me, but Apart from a rather useless Haynes manual which doesn't seem half as good as the Gregories and the like I'm used to for my XD i've little idea on where/what/how etc on this magna.. so any help would be much appreciated.

-Rob.

I have a manual around here somewhere for the TN I think, i'll hafta have a looky tomorrow.

Most of those are straight forward problems that shouldnt be too expensive to fix.

Parts are cheap and fairly plentiful still.

The fan control is probably the resister pack which will be in the air ducting rite beside the blower itself.
It all should be on the passenger side sorta behind the glove box. You shud see a plug going into the air duct.
Just unscrew it and it shud drop out easily. It'll just be some coils of wire. Some are probably broken.
Easy fix from the wreckers.

I'll take a look n see if it's there in the morning have to pull half the dash apart anyway.. to check some wiring on her, and replace the quick job i did on the stereo transfer with a more perminant one.

didn't get as far on this as I'd have liked :( apparently some ones had the entire centerconsole insluding the mounts out at some point (yeah i know nothing to do with this, but i need to get into the AT box to replace the light globe in it).. so anyway, it's been my 'problem' for the evening, the mroning was spent doing some TLC to carpets etc poor cars seen many k's (over a half million that I know of based on a rough calculation of the original dash and the replacement).

i thought all SE tn's and tp's were EFI? must have become standard in tp?.

ide say the wiper motor is ok its more prob the intermittent wiper repay located behind the engine air intake duct next to the battery on the inner fender.

as old fart said the fan will be the resistor block. to get to it remove the panel under the glove box (2 screws under square covers). be careful when getting a new one because most will be burnt out. if you cant find one in a first gen you can take one with the connector from a second gen as i did and rewire it. they are more reliable as they are totally incased in a ceramic casing so dont burn out as easily. this only apples if you dont have ATC (climate control) wich you wont in a tm.

i wouldn't worry about rev counter so much but if your really concerned the wire that activates it is the white wires that is shielded in a grey case in the back of the dash. it connects to the negative side of the coil from memory. check it is sending a pulse with a analog volt meter or light or something.

for the current drain put a amp meter over the fuse and disconnect all the central locking regulators one by one and see if one eliminates it. then if not start on what ever else is on the circuit. might find it that way.

the tm manual can be found at: http://astronsworld.dyndns.org/astron/
basically the same accept the tn had injection witch doesn't worry you anyway. site appears to be down atm so i dont know whats going on there.

heater will prob be blocked core as they dont have a tap. take a hole off and see if its got flow. if it does then the motor that moves the damper may be burnt out. you can tell this if you take the right hand middle panels from under the dash. there is a motor / damper assembly under the heater box. with the ignition on see if the motor moves the damper when you change the temp from hot to cold. if it dosnt it may be the motor, control or slide switch.

mine started out as a total mechanical and wiring mess but with a bit of effort it was a great car till i blew the auto. i put a new engine and manual gearbox in and hasnt missed a beat in over 10,000k since i did it. they do have there issues but are allot more comfortable then any falcon to drive imo lol

hope this helps

regards jay

i thought all SE tn's and tp's were EFI? must have become standard in tp?.

ide say the wiper motor is ok its more prob the intermittent wiper repay located behind the engine air intake duct next to the battery on the inner fender.

as old fart said the fan will be the resistor block. to get to it remove the panel under the glove box (2 screws under square covers). be careful when getting a new one because most will be burnt out. if you cant find one in a first gen you can take one with the connector from a second gen as i did and rewire it. they are more reliable as they are totally incased in a ceramic casing so dont burn out as easily. this only apples if you dont have ATC (climate control) wich you wont in a tm.

i wouldn't worry about rev counter so much but if your really concerned the wire that activates it is the white wires that is shielded in a grey case in the back of the dash. it connects to the negative side of the coil from memory. check it is sending a pulse with a analog volt meter or light or something.

for the current drain put a amp meter over the fuse and disconnect all the central locking regulators one by one and see if one eliminates it. then if not start on what ever else is on the circuit. might find it that way.

the tm manual can be found at: http://astronsworld.dyndns.org/astron/
basically the same accept the tn had injection witch doesn't worry you anyway. site appears to be down atm so i dont know whats going on there.

heater will prob be blocked core as they dont have a tap. take a hole off and see if its got flow. if it does then the motor that moves the damper may be burnt out. you can tell this if you take the right hand middle panels from under the dash. there is a motor / damper assembly under the heater box. with the ignition on see if the motor moves the damper when you change the temp from hot to cold. if it dosnt it may be the motor, control or slide switch.

mine started out as a total mechanical and wiring mess but with a bit of effort it was a great car till i blew the auto. i put a new engine and manual gearbox in and hasnt missed a beat in over 10,000k since i did it. they do have there issues but are allot more comfortable then any falcon to drive imo lol

hope this helps

regards jay

Mines definantly a Carbi and has always been a carbi no wiring loom for a EFI on her (else i'd have put the EFI in that came with the Newer engine).

Wipers - Would the relay also cause the wipers not to park though when used normally?

Heater - Will Check this one tomorrow or wednesday the big thing is though that we did watch water run from both holes durring the engine change, and I did have the panel off the acutal heater vavle under the driverside there, and when you have it on and move the slide on the steering wheel (wing thingie {edit.. not under but above the fan switch my bad i'm tired } under the fan switches) from cold - hot nothing happens. So I'm thinking either the servo's had it or there is something wrong with the wiring there.. course the manuals all tell me to send the wing to mitsubishi for 'repair' *snorts* yeah right.

The Fan, it's not that the fan doesn't work.. the fan works and works well.. it's that the speeds on the fan itself appear to be messed up.. on the Console you have Off, 1,2,3,4 best way I can discribe it from Left - Right.. Off works, 1 works, 2 does't works, 3, works, 4 works. or something like that (with out going out) they do change speed, just that one of them is literally not doing anything n i'm just trying to work out why.. as part of the whole heating etc issue.

Taco, well that's in part just because with the new engine in it would be nice to be able to double check revs etc. ;)

Current Drain: Yeah that was my thought on it, just not looking forward to it because isn't there a relay in every door?

And for the Ride, hell yeah much more comfortable then my falcon, if i can get her all sorted out I'll be really happy to have her as my drive, it's just getting her sorted, especially when your up in the middle of no where (half way between Mildura and Bendigo) and getting parts = ring, ask, hope they will either post or some one is going down that way heh.

-Rob

firstly, the relay was the cause of the issue on mine. mine never use to park all the time and the relay fixed it.

there is a central locking actuator in each door yes. not to hard to get to. take the plugs out of the trim, undo the two screws from the arm rest and gently pry the bottom of the door card up with a spoon or screw driver (i get less damage with spoon).

if you apply power to the motor directly and it will not turn then its motor. otherwise its prob the linear potentiometer in the left hand pod that is controlled by the slider. ive got a few and i can post you one. very unlikely to be wiring but possible i suppose. could also be the control module but ive never heard of trouble with them.

the fan motor has two wires going in. one is earth the other comes from the resistor block witch is located in the duct. it will 99% be your problem. it has coils of resistive wire to vari the speed and at this age they have seen allot of abuse. my old one before i changed to elite electrics was soldered and hacked together lol.

as to driverbility my mother has an 06 BA 5.4lt V8 Fairmont Giah with full leather and every option ford offered at the time and my father has a crappy 08 VE 'sports wagon' and i much prefer my car to both any day. its just a lot better ergonomically and easier to see out of and drive. feels like a small car where really its got more room then both.

regards jay

Edit to warn: Big ass pictures, i ain't at home so can't resize easily no Photoshop :( I've instead linked to the images rather then embed

Thought I'd dump up some images of the magna and Old yeah I agree the Magna is a MUCH smoother ride.. no doubt about that.

http://www.star-fleet.org/car/magna/IMG_0199.JPG

This is the car itself have to do some minor fix up on the body but she's getting there.


ok.. which of these is the relay i'm after?

http://www.star-fleet.org/car/magna/IMG_0195.JPG

And this is the area behind my Glove Box

http://www.star-fleet.org/car/magna/IMG_0187.JPG

http://www.star-fleet.org/car/magna/IMG_0188.JPG


and this area.. the motor appears to not be moving with the long switch.. i've gotta work out hwo to get power to it given some morons put the center console on from 'under' the console so i can't just undo the screws like normal..

http://www.star-fleet.org/car/magna/IMG_0200.JPG


and I'm guessing these two boxes.. One is the Cruiser Computer and the other is I don't know..

http://www.star-fleet.org/car/magna/IMG_204.JPG

and well these should be self evident the big hunk in the middle = what just cost me a bucket to replace heh.

http://www.star-fleet.org/car/magna/IMG_0190.JPG

http://www.star-fleet.org/car/magna/IMG_0191.JPG

http://www.star-fleet.org/car/magna/IMG_0192.JPG

oh and does any one know a wire from the location of the fuse box that only goes hot on On/Ign. rather then accessory, this has had a electronic fuel pump put in the engine bay.. and ah.. yeah the damned things wired to the Accessory switch = Really annoying.

first off, the relay closest to the front is the wiper relay. the other should be the central locking relay.

the resistor block is accessible when you take the panel from under the glove box out. not accessible through the glove box.

the pic of the boxes refuses to load on my computer. but if the two boxes are mounted together and the same size then the one on top may be a ETACS controller (controls time delays for power windows, demister, dome light + security). i think they were only an option on the TP elite tho but if they are mounted together and of the same size then its likely to be. the etacs one is silver, the cruse is gold.

as to the fuel pump really it should be wired in a way that means it only functions when the engine is cranking or the engine is running. this is so that if you have a frontal impact and it ruptures a fuel line it doesn't keep pumping fuel into the wreck, increasing the potential for explosion. but the feed to the headlight relay may be an option otherwise the feed to the voltage gauge on the dash is another. but for that you need to run it through a relay. i cant think of a wire thats only hot when the engine is running. there is prob some sort of vacuum operated circuit somewhere. you could run it off a normally closed relay from the brake warning lamp and power it off the starter motor while cranking but that is pretty dam complicated if im honest. just depends on weather it concerns you but it is a pretty important safety feature.

the interior is a bit of a faf the first time you pull it to pieces but once you have done it once it becomes very easy. ive had the whole lot out a few times lol. lots of brytal plastic tho lol

car looks nice and clean anyway. most of the old ones are a bit faded by now with a ageing interior but yours looks to have stood up alright. lucky mine had been garaged from day 1 so has immaculate paint apart from where asses have hit it lol.

Boxes was me being stuipid on the linnk http://www.star-fleet.org/car/magna/IMG_0204.JPG

two boxes one is Gold, one is silver.

N ok have to take the entire panel out *groans* that'll be fun.. not lol. Trying to get in to replace the Automatic Transmission is a pain in the rear as it is.. half wondering will the fuel pump continue to go if it's on the starter though? *will have to ask the mechanic* i know electronics but not a load when it fomes to mechanic.

The car is fairly straight, the Front Left Quarter Panel (think that's right) had a small run in with a pole which has screwed the panel up a little.. so i'm gonna look at doing a panel beating job on it.. then the paints chipped a bit. I have to take her out to the mechanic to have the Carbie and the like all fixed etc now the engines been in for a few days, and see if he can come up with any bright idea's on getting this heater to move or getting power to it to check the actual actuator... I'd be happy if i could get it half way or manually moveable, that awy i could put it onto a paddle and use my foot ;)

if the top box has 2 black plugs going into it its etacs. but i really thought that was only available on TP. unless someone was a potty as me and changed the loom lol. can you take a pic of the connections?

if the fuel pump is on a accessories circuit then it will power off while cranking but thats not a problem when you have a full bowl of fuel as long as it hasnt been run dry or something. still wont matter tho as far as not filling.

as to the damper motor if you get the panel off then unclip the control rod from the motor arm and manually slide the damper around as see if you get hot air. if you do then heater works lol. you can try this by just taking the right hand side foot well panel off. if you really dont want to rip the dash out to repair it then get a choke / lawn mower throttle cable and connect that up. crude but will do the trick till you have time / parts. i did that in a cresida which has a similar system accept its a total nightmare to fix lol.
the electrics in these things are pretty simple if you have a diagram, test light and meter. especially when you dont have efi. but even with its a piece of piss.

as to body work that's the one thing i hate with a passion!

carbys arnt so easy so it is defiantly an idea to leave that to the mechanic. the vacume set up ect on these is horrific when people screw it up. lines and shit everywhere. if thats the case its easier to strip it out and start again with a decent diagram and your wits about you lol. but if its running then leave it lol. thats my advice lol.

well the fuel pumps not even connected anymore so no more click click click when i turn the key.

heating is working.. manual wise.

Carbie.. don't get me started

Relay.. waiting on it to arrive it was't put on todays freight :(

To expand on this....

At some point the car wasn't starting properly.. so an 'extra' fuel pump was added in.. only to later be found it was the carbies points or something needed replacing. That was done. but fuel pump was still there.. I removed one of the leads put tape on it.. car's still going so far.

Carbie: well this appears to be a mix of ahh.. a lot of issues namedly i've a feeling vacume lines = wrong but the cars going..

Heating: yeah it's the two motors not the heater itself.

Ok, Wipers working, Battery.. hopefully now charging (is ropeable at the guys who did the repair job on the harness 8 years ago).. Etc.. basically i've a seat belt i have to fix.. 4 new tires.. and a light adjustment (there a little out of alignment) and she'd pass a RWC (hopefully).. but yeah You where right Old Magna, wiper Relay was the cause.

The Central Locking.. I'll get to eventually It's one of those it's not as important at the moment jobs heh.

The Damper Arm.. well eventually i'm gonna have to replace those servo motors or see which of the two needs replacing, gets me why there are 2 on the damned thing. Fuel Pump now just an added expensive item sitting in the engin bay not even connected up.

I replaced both the servo motors for the heater flap door on my old 1st gen when I had her......cost me about 15 bucks in parts, from my self serve wreckers. I can look out for a pair when I am next there if you want, we probably have better access to magna parts here than you would do.

If you could I'd be greatful, trying to find / get parts here can be a pain, you ring either 75 - 200km away and then hope that....

1. They will get off their asses and remove the part for you.
2. They won't charge you an arm and a leg for something that is easily pulled.
3. They will actually put the damned thing on the freight.

Fixed my broken seat belt stalk yestarday + the light in the Automatic Transmision housing.. and learnt how to actually take all of that center console out which helps, some of the plastic though = that brittle after 20 years it go 'snap' :(

when you refer to the the two servo motors are you sure one isnt the potentiometer thats attached to the damper set up. i havent looked at one in a while but i remember one motor and one potentiometer that was a feedback for how far open the damper is. i know there is a few at the wreckers at the moment so ill get you a price then work out postage if you like. i have a few of the slider switches at home aswell and a controller but ill have to take a look and get you some prices. im not at home atm or i would go do it now.

did you get the manual off the web site? or is the link still broken?

regards jay

think one is a potentiometer the forward one has MH and MC on it then it connects to another bigger one and beyond that is the damper arm. I removed both rods in the end.

The Manual website was still down when I last tried, gotten most of the issues sorted (beyond 4 new tires heh) at least.

Where are you located?? I have just come back to Adelaide after a few months in country vic.....a little town called Watchem

Sea Lake

So not that far away heh, it's part of this shire actually.. about 100km direct south.. well 89 i think 100 if you go over to the sunie and down it 89 if you use the Sea Lake - birchip road.

finally got the manuals down.. lots of helpful info in those at least :)

well the car's had it's first long run, 10l/100km roughly.

Some small issues but not too many.