During the week I had the car off the road for the heater pipe replacement, I decided to go and do a few extra things. One of them was to have bash at the roof lining. Here is a image and description of how I did it and what I used to achieve the final result.
Total cost of materials was $80-00.
Total time was two days due to the cooler weather for glue setting.

My choice of glues, tin for the foam and spray for the fabric.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/007Mychoiceofglues.jpg

I used Acetone Wire Brush and Electric drill with this attachment. I cannot remember the name but it can be bought from automotive shops and is great for stripping paint back on metal.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/DSCF0001.jpg


First we remove the old lining, this will leave all or some remnants of the foam backing. In my case as my lining was not overly bad, just stained all the foam stayed up there :(

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/002liningoff.jpg

I started by using the wire brush to get rid of the coarse grade foam. This took about 30 minutes to clear the whole roof lining to look like this small area.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/003wirebrush.jpg

Then I used the electric drill with the scuff wheel. I did not apply pressure, but allowed the natural weight of the machine to do the work, guiding it where it was needed. As I could not photograph me using a drill at the same time all you get is the result ;)

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/005liningafterscuffpad.jpg

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Next I used the Acetone. I applied the acetone to a clean rag, then quickly wiped over an area to clear of residue foam and dust. Do not apply direct or use to much as this will dissolve your roof lining board!! Also do in the open air, When satisfied that the board is clean, you can move onto the next phase.
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Now I start to rebuild the foam layer. I chose to use a series of foam squares in preference to a single piece of foam as I was working on my own. My theory was that it would be easier than having it get stuck in the wrong place and ripped up. My new theory is, have two people for the foam. Anyhow, working from the center, I started laying down Selleys Kwik Grip from the can and let it dry for 15 minutes. My first mistake was making the glue patch to neat a fit to the foam, but more on that later. I then applied the first 3mm thick piece.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/008layingnewfoam.jpg

From here I then started adding each successive square to build upon. This is where I found my problem. I should have let the glue overlap generously, because as I started joining the sides to the center row, I had to add glue close in to the seam and this created a hard seam line, which is now ever so slightly visible in the roof lining. I know cause I did it, not many have actually picked it yet, but now you know, well, I guess if you see it you will look for it.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/009Ichosetousepanels.jpg

Always ensure that your glue is nice and tacky before adding your foam to the area around the compound curves and try not to put to much stretch pressure in the foam as you follow these around. This is the area around the sun visors, and hand holds. If you get it right the foam should stay down on the first go and there should be no need to chase lifting bubbles.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/010allfoampanelson.jpg

I let this stage dry over night to be certain that the foam had set to the roof lining board, without any extra pressures on it from the final surface tensions pulling it around.
The material I chose was a stretch material I purchased from Spotlight here in SA. I'll have to go and find out the name of the material to put in here. Any how, in this next image you can see the original lining color to the right and the material which has two sides giving a choice of lighter or darker grey to the left.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/011Newmaterialagainstold.jpg

Once you have made your choice, or whatever material you use, you need to set your adhesive. I used the Selleys Kwik Grip spray at this point. I hung the material on the clothes line and stood the newly re foamed liner up against the garage. I then laid down a goodly coat of glue on the foam as per the instructions, using the marks of the foam panels as a guide for completing each section of spraying. I then did the same to the material and then lat them reach a tacky stage before mating them together, again starting from the center.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/012startfromcentreanddonotoverstretch.jpg

Gently pull the material out to its position and smooth it down working out from the middle to the edges. When you get to the complex bits like the curves around the lights and sun visors, you will need to apply some stretch here and press down smoothly into the shape all the way along. If the glue is at the proper set point it will hold and the material will stay. Patience is the key here!

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/013workmaterialintoshapearoundlightandvisorrecesse s.jpg

Once this is completed you can then cut the hole or holes for your interior lights. I suggest using an X type cut which you can then pull the flap around to glue back behind.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/014cutlightholestoallowforfoldbackandglue.jpg

Now you can trim of any excess material from around the edge of the complete lining, I left about two centimeters for pinning back all the way around. To do this I used glue on the back of the material and the back of the lining board at the edge, allowed it to become very tacky then pulled the materiel firm and pressed it together on the back, creating a neat edge finish. Then let it dry.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/015trimexcessoffandleaveenoughtogluedownaroundedge s.jpg

Finished and in the car. In these pictures it does highlight the seam lines I was referring too by using the squares and getting glue in the joins :( On the positive side, it does make a huge difference in the sound quality in the interior of the car :thumbsup:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/019finishedincar3.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/018finishedincar2.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/Cobra-7/Magna/017finishedincar1.jpg

Hey mate good write up, i need to do this to mine as it is sagging. Question, how did you remove the roof lining from the car? What was the best way to get it out?

Was the roof sagging? If not, what was the aim?

Nice write up ;)

Hey mate good write up, i need to do this to mine as it is sagging. Question, how did you remove the roof lining from the car? What was the best way to get it out?
When I did this the first time, I took out the passenger seat, laid back the drivers seat and then took it out through the left hand front door. It required I put a gentle fold in the middle to complete the removal, but this did not hurt the lining. This was to change from the Exec single light to the one I have now with map lights. This time around I had no interior at all so it was a bit easier :)

Was the roof sagging? If not, what was the aim?

Nice write up ;)
Lining wasn't sagging, it was all discolored and looked like it had been glued with liquid nails in places. In some of the images of the old foam you will see some pretty hard looking glue stuff, that was set like a rock and had to be cut off with a sharp knife. Had the opportunity and took it.

No need to remove seats to get the lining out, just put your gearsticjk (or auto shifter as far back as it will go, wind down rear driver side window and front passenger window, push front seats right back and recline all the way, then persuade it out of the front passenger door :)

Few things I would change with this writeup as general suggestions, not saying your ways are wrong.. The best way I have found over many rooflinings to remove the excess foam is by using your fingers, rubbing it, it will get rid of all of it.

If you contact glue the material in sections, you WILL crease the material due to glue setting on the folds, your best bet for a perfect finish is to have someone to help you, spray contact both surfaces, wait until it's tacky, it with some contact adhesives (the good ones), wait till it feels dry. This is much easier with a stretchy material, but you have to gauge how much slack you are going to need on the material, touch 4 corners of the material to the 4 corners of the lining (which are the highest points), then work the material from the middle outwards, as your material is only just touching the 4 corners, if it turns out top tight or loose, you can separate these small contact points. I may have missed stuff.. I'm on my phone so bite me :)

I saw that ya had a new magna when i went past your place the other day.

Ya shouldve let me know about the roof lining as i have 4 brand new ones sitting at my place (2 have the extra hole at the front for the map lights), you couldve had one of them.

Yeh Woob I figured two people would be better, but once I had started, well I was committed and had to make the most of what I was doing. The spray adhesive allows for pick up and replace it a few times so it was not that bad. The only drama on the fold was the previous step, when I put the foam on in sections and got glue in between the squares and it caused a hard ridge. Now it has settled a bit hardly noticeable and I dont drive with my head looking up much :) LOL

Hey Jason, Murphy's Law (no offense the the Murphs on here) Not something you expect someone to have lying around though, but I might hold you to one of those for my daughters car cause I don't think I want to rush in and do this again in a hurry.

well, i don't mean to hijack this thread, but figured i would post my first time roof lining attempt here, i think it looks pretty good, i used a polyester material from spotlight, and also covered the door trims as well, used a banister brush to clean the old glue off, then a good clean up so no loose glue on the surface, materials plus glue $30. bleached the plastic trims, for a black and white feel, followed Beachy`s cheap way to do the instrument lighting, and its a completely different car.


http://i52.tinypic.com/2ags313.jpg
http://i51.tinypic.com/1g3ps0.jpg

Awesome post! Thanks, I am having issues with the front bit, it's starting to peel, I used hobby glue to glue the front back on but its obvious that I used glue as the lining is firm but the pales where I used glue is really tightly against the foam.

Should have read this first.

that's gorgeous work and i believe it takes plenty of efforts to complete.

i am wondering if there is a place to get a nice roof from wrecked car.

I've done a couple and skip the foam stage, using thick pinup board material instead. Brushed on contact adhesive in 30 Cm bands, starting at the back, applying material while the adhesive is still wet.

I replaced the roof lining in my TS last year, the material I bought already had the foam backing, the glue I used was a 3M brand spray on adhesive, theres videos on you tube that show how to do it.

What if the car has a sun roof? How would you cover the sliding panel part of the sun roof?

I've done a couple and skip the foam stage, using thick pinup board material instead. Brushed on contact adhesive in 30 Cm bands, starting at the back, applying material while the adhesive is still wet.

+1

Get a good quality material, I picked a really nice solid material with foam already attached, this was a little bit harder to mold because it was quite thick, however now offence it looks better than having seams in the material.

Typically if you use spray glue then a light coat onto the headliner when using a thin material will suffice but places like "Daleys" sell plenty of headliner materials that are foam backed and very easy to glue in the shapes.

Hey Beachy let me know if you still require that new headlining for your daughters car. I have 4 brand new grey ones, 2 with the front map light hole.

I had a guy come and re do mine black recently, he was using compressed air to remove all the old foam. he redid the whole thing in about 15 mins.
as for the gray plastics on the roof, i used VHT vinal dye. looks factory!

I got pretty lucky i think as an upholsterer did my wagon for $125 i just removed and refitted it. Wagons are easier to get lining out. Vee

Hey Beachy let me know if you still require that new headlining for your daughters car. I have 4 brand new grey ones, 2 with the front map light hole.
Yes mate, could still use them if you got the chance to get it to me. be great.

Yes mate, could still use them if you got the chance to get it to me. be great.

Can get them here to Mt Barker (or pickup at Mannum) no worries but have no way of delivering to Adelaide.
Checked them out the other day whilst going thru car parts in the storage shed and all look in new condition still.

We'll try and work something out, I hardly venture onto these forums much anymore so replies to any posts/PM's will be a bit slow.

Hey mate good write up, i need to do this to mine as it is sagging.

Yeah great write up (and fix). I personally have owned 2x vehicles that this happened with a Sigma and a TP Magna - I guess that Mitsy used the same supplier; who use the same adhesive each time. From then on it was just a matter of time...


Steve

Digging up an old thread here but does anyone know where in Adelaide you can buy the fabric with the foam backing already attached?

Cobra82: Daleys.

Cobra82: Daleys.


Thanks but ended up going to upullit and pulling a headliner out of a wreck there. Out of probably 20+ 2nd gens only 2 had non sagging headliners and only one of those was relatively clean. They only charge $28 for a headliner though which made it worth the time and effort.