well next week the auto 3.5 TH goes under the knife again this time getting

Full 2 1/2" Mandrel Bent exhaust with high flow cat and high flow muffler
K&N CAI

to go along with
70mm oversized throttle body
Pacemaker Extractors
K&N ram pod
Greddy Emanage

Then a dyno tune to finish it off, so what i want to know is what power output at the wheels do you guys reckon i will get. Last dyno recorded 190hp at the wheels. Could I get close to the 200 hp at the wheel mark?

Also will be takin it too the 1/4 mile see how it goes, what timesyou reckon I can get with this beast?

All opinions accepted
Cheers
Paul

I reckon 200HP is highly achievable dude... All THE BEST and GOOD LUCK!

yeah i reckon 200hp is achievable because the 190hp figure was recorded before i got the oversized throttle body fitted too. So i need to gain 10hp at the wheels from an oversized throttle body, new 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust and a dyno tune. Bring on 200hp!!!

if u have 190hp already, the muffler alone will add about 10hp as a well known gain for these cars, so yes around 200 hp should be expected if u are getting full 2.5 system. But i doubt the hiflow cat will make a difference. a lot of ppl who taken out cat and resinator and replaced with straight pipe gain nothing at all, these parts only worth upgrading with serious na mods or forced induction.

i believe tha stock cat is good towards 195hp at the wheels, i should exceed this figure so replacing the cat should yield more gains, maybe only 3hp at the wheels or something but i want to get over the 200hp at the wheels mark, and if i get dynoed at like 198hp at the wheels without a high flow cat i would be a little disappointed lol

also the t/b probably wont give any signifigant power increase, just better throttle response. 70mm t/b's are only an inprovement for serious turbos or v8's that have big air demand. not saying theyre not a good mod, i have one meself :cool:

Also i believe that a 14.7 quarter mile is the quickest N/A magna we know of down the strip, could i have any chance of beating this with a decent run?

i believe tha stock cat is good towards 195hp at the wheels, i should exceed this figure so replacing the cat should yield more gains, maybe only 3hp at the wheels or something but i want to get over the 200hp at the wheels mark, and if i get dynoed at like 198hp at the wheels without a high flow cat i would be a little disappointed lol

so u really want to spend about 300$ for 3hp? fine if u want to take things even further later, but for just a few extra horses get it tuned to PULP or 98 PULP since u already have piggyback ecu, that should get u an extra 5-10 hp and/or teflon treat the engine with Nulon or Slick 50 for about an extra 5hp :cool:

also the t/b probably wont give any signifigant power increase, just better throttle response. 70mm t/b's are only an inprovement for serious turbos or v8's that have big air demand. not saying theyre not a good mod, i have one meself :cool:
You have an oversized throttle body too? Did you do it yourself? If not, who?

Also i believe that a 14.7 quarter mile is the quickest N/A magna we know of down the strip, could i have any chance of beating this with a decent run?

not with a 4 sp auto im afraid. i reckon full headwork could get you to maybe crack flat su 15 na, and i would have said a nos kit would probably get u there into the low 14 to beat 14.7, but it would probably blow your trans :cry:

i was aiming at high 14s with a turbo conversion. but couldnt get a trans rebuild to guarantee around 400Nm, only a rebuild for an extra 50Nm, not enough :doubt: .

and theres no LSD available for the auto so u would be too hard not to have a single spinner one tyre fire on the line :shock: while u lose time.

You have an oversized throttle body too? Did you do it yourself? If not, who?

nah suply and fit by rpw :cool:

nah suply and fit by rpw :cool:
Is that the higher flow throttle body or the oversize one? There is a difference and as far as Dave's said, there was only three made. Manual's old car had one, mr_mbquart has one and the third was supposedly sold to a guy who's not on the forum.

Is that the higher flow throttle body or the oversize one? There is a difference and as far as Dave's said, there was only three made. Manual's old car had one, mr_mbquart has one and the third was supposedly sold to a guy who's not on the forum.

hi flowed :cool:

With the qusrter mile times, i was under the impression that the mai disadvantage was that the auto had significantly more power loss from the fly wheel to the wheels. Now manual recorded a 14.8 quarter mile result before he got the greddy installed so i beleive he had around 180hp at the wheels. I cant see why i couldnt get close to this with an auto and an extra 20hp at the wheels. Remember Dave says a 3.0 V6 manual will run a similar time to a 3.5 auto, and that has a difference of only 7kw at the fly wheel or something. I would be disppointed if i didnt crack the 15 sec mark hey

With the qusrter mile times, i was under the impression that the mai disadvantage was that the auto had significantly more power loss from the fly wheel to the wheels. Now manual recorded a 14.8 quarter mile result before he got the greddy installed so i beleive he had around 180hp at the wheels. I cant see why i couldnt get close to this with an auto and an extra 20hp at the wheels. Remember Dave says a 3.0 V6 manual will run a similar time to a 3.5 auto, and that has a difference of only 7kw at the fly wheel or something. I would be disppointed if i didnt crack the 15 sec mark hey
Well, mr_mbquart, the best advice I can give you is to go out and try it. It's heaps of fun and it's a good challenge to try to improve your times. With a TH, yes, 7kW is the difference and if you've got similar mods then you'll sorta see similar gains and if you get enough then you might overcome the auto, not that it's that bad a thing. Just means take off is a little sluggish.

Anyway, go forth and have fun!

Also - with those mods i would look more at a 3" system rather hten a 2.5" - cos my exhaust was the latest restriction on my setup prior to me selling it - and you have basically the same mods as me - so i still think a 3" is worth it!! It would have been my next mod.

Manual

i think i might have to wait for RPW dyno results in a couple of weeks to make sure i do the right thing

With the qusrter mile times, i was under the impression that the mai disadvantage was that the auto had significantly more power loss from the fly wheel to the wheels. Now manual recorded a 14.8 quarter mile result before he got the greddy installed so i beleive he had around 180hp at the wheels. I cant see why i couldnt get close to this with an auto and an extra 20hp at the wheels. Remember Dave says a 3.0 V6 manual will run a similar time to a 3.5 auto, and that has a difference of only 7kw at the fly wheel or something. I would be disppointed if i didnt crack the 15 sec mark hey

i think 14.8 is a superb time for a magna with only 180hp atw and manual can obviously drive. Auto takes out most of the driving skill but the 4 speed auto is much slower because of less ratios, higher final drive and low stall torque converter, drivetrain loss aside.
thats why similarly modded autos run high 15's and 20 hp extra wont get 1 whole second off, u need to focus on the box. also i think the 3.0 auto is probably only very slightly if any slower than the 3.5 auto becuase it has a lower final drive.

my own magna is 4 speed auto and had 170hp atw b4 getting lukey muffler, full 2.5 piping, and CAI. the lukey is known to give 10hp atwso there 180hp already and the CAI has a noticable effect. but the best i got from this car is 15.7 leaving it in D. i know i could get at least .2 maybe even .5 sec off by holding 1 and 2 to 7'000 rpm because it pulls hard to 7000 and drops back into 4000 and goes harder from there. But i know the main slowing factor is the launch, caused by the low stall, and the more mods n/a you do the more u shift the power curve up and the more important the autos stall is.
i think if u want to crack 14's u should at least get a higher stall, and the 3.0 final drive. i was quoted only 300$ to get the stock converter modded to a 2500rpm stall from 1800, and u could get the 3.0 final drive gear in at the same time. :cool:

i think 14.8 is a superb time for a magna with only 180hp atw and manual can obviously drive. Auto takes out most of the driving skill but the 4 speed auto is much slower because of less ratios, higher final drive and low stall torque converter, drivetrain loss aside.
thats why similarly modded autos run high 15's and 20 hp extra wont get 1 whole second off, u need to focus on the box. also i think the 3.0 auto is probably only very slightly if any slower than the 3.5 auto becuase it has a lower final drive.

my own magna is 4 speed auto and had 170hp atw b4 getting lukey muffler, full 2.5 piping, and CAI. the lukey is known to give 10hp atwso there 180hp already and the CAI has a noticable effect. but the best i got from this car is 15.7 leaving it in D. i know i could get at least .2 maybe even .5 sec off by holding 1 and 2 to 7'000 rpm because it pulls hard to 7000 and drops back into 4000 and goes harder from there. But i know the main slowing factor is the launch, caused by the low stall, and the more mods n/a you do the more u shift the power curve up and the more important the autos stall is.
i think if u want to crack 14's u should at least get a higher stall, and the 3.0 final drive. i was quoted only 300$ to get the stock converter modded to a 2500rpm stall from 1800, and u could get the 3.0 final drive gear in at the same time. :cool:


hmm sounds interesting.

Im just starting to getting into the engine mods and im going for the works so is a 3" zorst worth it?

this stall convertor thing sounds interestin to me, i am not too familiar with how it works though, wen it comes to more technical stuff i dont know much, is it possible you could elaborate a bit more for me so that i understand better

basically by increasing the stall in the torque converter, it is like increasing the rpm u reach before letting out the clutch in a manual. when u want to take off slow u dont need a lot of revs, but if u want to take off fast u want to rev it more before dropping clutch.
the torque converter in an auto works like a big fluid filled clutch constantly. if the stall is low like only 1800rpm the motor will have to start moving the car from that engine speed where there isnt a lot of power. By increasing the stall to 2500rpm the engine wont have to try and move the car until the revs are at a speed where there is more power.
this helps on takeoff at the drags to save time, also when u r cruising and floor it u not left waiting for the engine to get into the zone. hope that makes sense.

hmm sounds interesting.

Im just starting to getting into the engine mods and im going for the works so is a 3" zorst worth it?

I believe the 3" system is too big and creates a vacuum.. and you lose power instead of gaining.. Not 100% on the vacuum creating thing.. 95% sure you lose power tho.. Will have to get someone to clear that Vacuum thing up for ya..

SuFz :rant:

Cool,stall converters the way for Autos! :P
So are u getting 1? :P

Hmm im thinking about this, i will talk to rpw tomorrow to see what they think
I want to finish off my car in the next couple of weeks so i can get down the quarter and drags quite quickly. If this will help its worth doin

aftremarket auto trans cooler? word on the street makes ur car change gears that slight bit better! who knows tho

i fitted one but didn't notice any difference. helped my friend sleep at night knowing he has done all he can to help his tranny last tho

I believe the 3" system is too big and creates a vacuum.. and you lose power instead of gaining.. Not 100% on the vacuum creating thing.. 95% sure you lose power tho.. Will have to get someone to clear that Vacuum thing up for ya..

SuFz :rant:

you wont lose power, you might lose torque. But if you have extractors then the scavenging affect is enough to keep your torque up and the exhaust free flowing with a 3 inch system.

you wont lose power, you might lose torque. But if you have extractors then the scavenging affect is enough to keep your torque up and the exhaust free flowing with a 3 inch system.

im bit sceptical, bec dont normally see 3" system on n/a 6 cyl cars, even modded ones. i thought 3" was only worthwhile for V8 or turbos, and if a 6cyl required 3" zorst it would be modded beyond the capability of the stock fuel system at least. but im keeping an open mind on this :cool:
plus 3" systems are too loud for my liking on a daily driver :confused:

I'm modding my engine quite a bit, but i'll stay with the 2.5 i rekon :cool:

yeah i couldn't see a real point from gaining the maybe 2kw from 2.5 to 3 inch, with the added noise. im not one for loud exhausts tho and will be sorting out mine very shortly

talked to dave about the stall convertor, not a good idea apprantly unless you want a car that guzzles fuel big time. Also apparently final drive gears from a 3.0 cant be done either. So getting sway bars and strut braces put on thursday which should improve my launch

hey man, nice car,


anyways, im pretty confident that you will get a sub 15 sec quarter mile time, because i got a 15.4 with a 3L (manual), with just a pod filter (no CAI) and a $120 muffler,

so if you have 3.5L, pod, cai, throttle body, extractors, etc, you must be at least half a second quicker if not more,

also, i have heard of "anti-lift" kits, which are designed so that the front-end of a car doesn't rise as much during launching, hence, putting more weight over the front wheels, and improving traction, .... but i dont know any specifics,


have fun racing, and fill us in on the time



later :cool: