Hey,

I have to change my timing belt on a Mitsubishi magna TJ 3.5l v6 Auto.

Now i have some questions:

What is useful for me to replace on the same time?

Which parts will i need and how much will the parts cost?

And i was looking for an instruction but i found only one for magna te & th.

Can Please someone help me.

Maybe t/belt tensioner? it is commonly done with the t/belt, just to save the fact that if the tensioner does fail, you don't have to pull timing covers, engine mount etc off again to replace it. Also, as per Mitsubishi service recommends doing the platinum spark plugs at the same time, but personally, you don't necessarily have to do them with the tbelt. Its simply a case of pulling the inlet manifold off.

If you're anal about you magna (bit like me) and if your acc belts are starting to wear (alternator-air con belt/ power steer belt) replace them as well, as you have to pull these off anyway to get to the tbelt.

Hope this helps :)

Just had mine done today at a dealership. I used all genuine parts but very expensive here and sourced most of these from the US. There was someone in Adelaide selling 100% genuine Timing belts online for $20 buy now and $6 delivery. In the parts list section I've outlined the oem numbers and the brands.

I made the mistake of not getting a tensioner because i was told they rarely fail by the first change. ended up getting a call suggesting it was starting to leak so OEM it was about $220.

I replaced all seals (cam/crank) , new crank bolt, both bearing pulleys, belt , tensioner.


The belt and pulleys were in good condition for 6 years and 110000k, the seals starting to get a little tired.

Get a timing belt kit plus a tensioner would be my advice. Mits do sell a 2nd genuine kit for about $250 or Mitsfix has a good kit for about $170.

This stuff is going to be in the car for another 5 years so if anything is not replaced you're expecting these items to last 10 years or more.

I went genuine for peace of mind.

I would do water pump at the same time.

The belts I do are genuine koyo bearings with ok seals again genuine and sun belt, Japanese made

On my fleabay store I have them at the moment for around 150

Tensioner only use genuine, after market tend to fail early however unless failing leave it. I don't know where in hell the comment about changing it requires the mount etc to come off, it is actually easy to di if you know how without taking much off at all
I can also supply competitive prices on spark plugs as well as water pumps etc if you are interested

I will be back on sat at work and you can also pick up

Don't forget things like trans flush etc as this may be due as wel

The belts I do are genuine koyo bearings with ok seals again genuine and sun belt, Japanese made

On my fleabay store I have them at the moment for around 150

Tensioner only use genuine, after market tend to fail early however unless failing leave it. I don't know where in hell the comment about changing it requires the mount etc to come off, it is actually easy to di if you know how without taking much off at all
I can also supply competitive prices on spark plugs as well as water pumps etc if you are interested

I will be back on sat at work and you can also pick up

Don't forget things like trans flush etc as this may be due as wel

It was ment to read, you need to take mount off to do timing belt. I understand you do not need to remove the mount to do the waterpump.

: )

Hey,

I have to change my timing belt on a Mitsubishi magna TJ 3.5l v6 Auto.

Now i have some questions:

What is useful for me to replace on the same time?

Which parts will i need and how much will the parts cost?

And i was looking for an instruction but i found only one for magna te & th.

Can Please someone help me.

You forgot to mention km!

At 100,000 km - replace just the belt but check everything. Shop around for prices. A belt will cost anywhere from $20 to $200/

It was ment to read, you need to take mount off to do timing belt. I understand you do not need to remove the mount to do the waterpump.

: )

I was referring to your comment on thentensioner, belt can stay on for that too



You forgot to mention km!

At 100,000 km - replace just the belt but check everything. Shop around for prices. A belt will cost anywhere from $20 to $200/

Anyone would be insane to use a $20 belt. There are just some things you do not skimp on

I was referring to your comment on thentensioner, belt can stay on for that too




Anyone would be insane to use a $20 belt. There are just some things you do not skimp on

you would also be insane not to atleast do the seals as well, for the sake of $8 at a bearing shop, or 40 from mitsu....

All depends on your perspective. A cheap belt is ok if its a well known brand like Gates or Goodyear. And seals? Why do them if they are not leaking? Replacing bits on the "what if it wears out soon?" principle doesn't appeal to me. Then again my time and labour for the tear down/reassembly is free, so when a leak appears in that area I will attend to it, not before. Yes, I DO keep an eye on the engine, and am prepared to replace idlers, tensioners, seals etc when necessary.
Replaced just the cam belt on my TJ at 111,000 km, as everything else checked out still serviceable. The ancillary belts looked like they were originals so they were ordered and replaced recently. I imagine a lot other stuff will need replacing at 200,000 km, if not before.

Different story if you have to pay someone though . . . . people make statements like "I replaced all seals (cam/crank) , new crank bolt, both bearing pulleys, belt , tensioner." when they really mean that they paid someone to do so. The cost of labour means that you might as well err on the side of caution and replace a lot of stuff - like a full kit - to avoid paying for labour again sometime down the track.

I really enjoy reading some of these opinions here

A 20 buck timing belt. Rebuilding seat belts. Not doing oil seals regardless if you are paying for the job or not is just as stupid

Op please for the love of God ignore that comment as seals take sfa longer to do and remember when some cheap ass does not do the seals the time is greater than the time taken, as well as more messy, than to just do them in the first place. Also your $20 timing belt, the one someone has had sitting on a shelf for 20 years, the one you saved $50 bucks on at risk of doing $2000 damage to your engine, will now be soaked in oil and will need replacing again

Oh god I love the accuracy of the advice given on these forums, makes me wonder how any workshop could even have a clue on what they are doing

I totally agree.

Go for good quality new parts, and do a thorough job so you don't pay for labour twice.

Just because I'm a cheapskate and like pulling down my car's engine every weekend doesn't mean others have to as well. lol

Shelf life of a timing belt is 15 years by the way, and only if they are stored in a sealed plastic bag/container away from sunlight and sources of ozone, like a photocopier or large electric motors. lol Look for a manufacturing date on the box if you buy a belt.

my car has 363.000kms its a KF XI , I've just done my timing belt , but I'm abit pedantic about these things so I've probably gone overboard but due to the kms everything is just about to let go if not gone

but these are all the parts I did change, ( and why I changed them ),

timing belt ( original was in GC, but running with no tension and oil soaked= bad )
tensioner pulley ( very noisy )
Idler pulley ( Very noisy )
tensioner ( this had failed, dont know how it was still running fine, belt was loose )
cam seals ( leaking bad )
cranks seal ( leaking bad )
crank bolt ( looked ok )
crank bolt washer ( looked warped )
crank timing pulley ( very worn out )
crank pulley blade ( looked fine )
crank angle sensor ( had a crack and was throwing a code )
timing case covers x 3 ( warped and cracked )
water pump ( looked fine )
harmonic balancer ( very badly cracked )

I did do it all myself , so I've saved in labour , these days its not that expensive to get it done either

plus noticed the bright sparks that did the last belt , fitted the crank angle sensor through the inside of the timing case

Sounds like you did a thorough job there. Doesn't sound like you went overboard considering the km on the engine.

"plus noticed the bright sparks that did the last belt , fitted the crank angle sensor through the inside of the timing case" lol

That's what happens if you pull things off in a hurry and don't study where things go first. lol And don't have a manual to look things up in lol lol

thanks Madmax, I want to try to hang onto this KF for a few years

it would have been alot harder to set the inside route up ,rather than going the normal way too

I totally agree.

Go for good quality new parts, and do a thorough job so you don't pay for labour twice.

Just because I'm a cheapskate and like pulling down my car's engine every weekend doesn't mean others have to as well. lol

Shelf life of a timing belt is 15 years by the way, and only if they are stored in a sealed plastic bag/container away from sunlight and sources of ozone, like a photocopier or large electric motors. lol Look for a manufacturing date on the box if you buy a belt.

i hope thats a well researched statement, because if some buys a 14 year old belt on these ground and it breaks.... well

I really enjoy reading some of these opinions here

A 20 buck timing belt. Rebuilding seat belts. Not doing oil seals regardless if you are paying for the job or not is just as stupid

Op please for the love of God ignore that comment as seals take sfa longer to do and remember when some cheap ass does not do the seals the time is greater than the time taken, as well as more messy, than to just do them in the first place. Also your $20 timing belt, the one someone has had sitting on a shelf for 20 years, the one you saved $50 bucks on at risk of doing $2000 damage to your engine, will now be soaked in oil and will need replacing again

Oh god I love the accuracy of the advice given on these forums, makes me wonder how any workshop could even have a clue on what they are doing

Totally agree with this as i went through this personally... skimped out on the timing belt by letting the "mech" convince me to buy his $50 shelf stock after i had spent thousands on performance parts for the rebuild on another car... belt snapped a month after the rebuild under NORMAL (non hoony) conditions and destroyed the whole engine.. paid the same amount to rebuild again and the performance was never the same.


Anyways... as I am currently in this process for my 200k on the ralliart... Madmagna, i just want to hear it from yourself that with your years of experience/servicing/etc that the "Sun Belts" you sell are the goods.. as in as good or better than oem?

And do you by any chance know of anyone in Brissy/QLD you can recommend and trust to do my 200k logbook + timing belt and a few other things?

I went to a Mitsubishi dealer last week to get a quote for parts to do the belt. The car is 11 years old and 180,000km. The bloke told me to just change the belt and crank bolt. He said don't touch the seals or water pump unless they are leaking. He also said to only change the idler bearing if it is feels worn. He reckons that they never sell any water pumps and that the other items can wait for the 3rd belt change.

Does the crank bolt really need to be changed?

Parts prices:

Belt $137
Oil seals $46
Water pump kit $225
Tensioner $189
Crankshaft bolt $35

Jimbo,
I can do a complete kit for about the price of the belt alone

Without knowing what mileage your car has I will say this, do the pump if it has done 200k, if only 100k dont bother.

As for the "advice" of the dealer, he is a tool. You always replace the seals and you always do the pulleys, I have had a few cars come in for new motors where the pulleys have failed before the 200k mark and done a lot of damage, why not replace them when the kit is $142 if being picked up (only $5 more than just the belt which from mits is only Dayco)

Water pump is $89 and I can match that price on the pre tensioner

Crank bolt, they harp on about this at the dealers but to date I have NEVER replaced one and NEVER had one fail, Pajero's are a different story all together but Magnas there is no need

The odo is on 173,000 km. The belt was last done in 2007 at 87,000km a year before I got the car. I was thinking of leaving it till later in the year when the coolent is due to be changed.

I don't agree with the logic of the guy at the dealer. What happens if the pump or seals start leaking before the 300,000km mark, do you just let them leak till the next belt change or do the whole job again to replace them. If a bearing failed it would be the end of the motor.