OK the original rotors are now getting a more and more warped and am now looking at replacing them. Slotted are nice but need special pads from what I gather. I was thinking of getting some QFM pads to go with them. So the OEM rotors warp like crazy, but what about after market ones (not slotted). Has anyone gone down this path and if so what did you get and has it cured the warp factor? I am at warp factor 9 with Captain Kirk, Mr Spock and Scottie!!

Slotted rotors don't really need special pads, but they'll chew up pads a bit faster than flat discs.

QFM pads are definitely a good choice, even with stock rotors. Something you might want to look into is getting your discs machined, to remove the runout and give you a square and flat surface that won't shudder or make the pedal pulse. Also quite a bit cheaper than new discs.

I did 80k on slotted rotors from day one on my Falcon and sold that set of brakes with plenty of life left in them

That said I'm at 90k now on the 380 and they tell me that the fronts need replacing. I think they mean pads but I will change them both this time. I am looking at RDA slotted rotors, I'll always go slotted when changing from OEM. Pads possibly Bendix HD or something from the RDA range too if they have a pad that's similar to the HD for when the wife starts towing. The tow bar goes on tomorrow.

I didn't know QFM pads were available. I was not impressed on a set of those I got for the Falcon, the pad material was a lot smaller on the backing plate than it should have been. Someone told me to check and sure enough, they were a lot smaller than other pads. I removed them.

That said, other than squealing, which I don't normally hear the standard pads and rotors have been fine this whole time, they just seem to have worn out.

I got DBA street series slotted

I love em

I have them on the Falcon, they are cool. It was the standard DBA slotted I had initially and no issues at all.

What pads do you run?

Slotted rotors don't really need special pads, but they'll chew up pads a bit faster than flat discs.

QFM pads are definitely a good choice, even with stock rotors. Something you might want to look into is getting your discs machined, to remove the runout and give you a square and flat surface that won't shudder or make the pedal pulse. Also quite a bit cheaper than new discs.
I have had the rotors machined by my normal brake place who know their stuff. After around 5k or less they started to show signs of warping so I took them back. They re-did them at no cost. I am pretty conservative on the brakes these days ( I know all about terminal brake fade lol) so I was surprised when after one heavy application from 110 kph because of some goose having brain fade, I was again experiencing warping.
They started doing the better QFM pads early in 2010. Currently have GCT but am not overly impressed by them.
What did people pay for the front slotted rotors?

Jeez, guys.

You must really smash your brakes. I have the original rotors, yes, with Ultimates and my car is now around 160 000km. They've been machined twice in that time.

$185 a side I think

my OEM rotors are on Hojo's 'Rada after a machine

Jeez, guys.

You must really smash your brakes. I have the original rotors, yes, with Ultimates and my car is now around 160 000km. They've been machined twice in that time.
No way. I drive most times really easy. Never had any brake fade so never got them up to any kind of temperature to speak of. Funnily enough the people I use for my brakes reckon that the GCT's are crap. I tend to agree after having them in for some time. They suggested the DBA 4000 slotted too with the HD's. I will see how the rotors mic up an possibly either throw a set of QFM pads in (which weren't available when I put the GCTs in) as they reckon they will be a lot better. They also reckon the 4000 are heat treated and more resistant to warping. Cost of around $400 rotors and pads. May wait and see what the rotors are like.

Jeez, guys.

You must really smash your brakes. I have the original rotors, yes, with Ultimates and my car is now around 160 000km. They've been machined twice in that time.

I am light on brakes generally, but my second hand 380 (50 000 km when I bought it) suffered severe vibration from warped rotors the first time I did the long down hill on the Pacific Hwy from Sydney down into the 'Gong. No problems at all in normal city or Highway driving prior to that - never had need to really heat the brakes prior to that trip. I did a bit of net searching but didn't find anyone (maybe bad searching by me) who advertised brake rotor machining around Sydney, so joined this forum, and after reading all the old stuff on this went for RDA slotted rotors with Bendix HD pads, as I do occasionally tow gliders in trailers and wanted the extra stopping power.

Have done about 5000 km and am happy with the feel, bite and performance in general traffic, but no opportunity or need yet to push them hard.

If any downside I would mention that they tend to "judder/shudder/creep noise" more than the originals when creeping at the lights etc in stop start mode. A bit more difficult to release them very slowly without getting a bit more minor shake/judder/shuuder/creep than was the case on the originals

I got them at trade price form AutoOne - they were nice to me - at $255 for the pair of rotors and $77 for the pads. Retail is quoted as $373 and $133 respectively.

T

Mount Ousley will do that Telpat
it was the reason for me upgrading to the DBA's and Ultimates (now premium's)

(Also the thrash through the Natio, Hey Kiffy did not help matter)

I love the offgassing pulse you feel on hard braking though with the slotted's

guys dont forget Megatron for your purchasing of brakes

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68876

Got slotted rotors after OEM worn out. massive change. Not going to flat rotors again unless getting a different car and those will be replaced asap too lol

Mount Ousley will do that Telpat

I love the offgassing pulse you feel on hard braking though with the slotted's

I think I need another run down South to test them - haven't used them that hard yet :)

Reckon that I am sold on the slotted rotors and will try the HD with them. May just have to wait a while to get it done as the $$ are a little tight atm.

I think I need another run down South to test them - haven't used them that hard yet :)

Come on an AMC NSW Cruise with Kif or me leading and you will find them on the edge of their ability

Some cruise Mecha! Mine would be cooked and I would be getting whiplash when I braked lol!!

A little background
Well Kif and I led AMC///NSW through the Royal National park on a night cruise to wollongong one night

Kif and I left everyone behind playing in the forest. We tested the limits of the standard braking system and whilst its good (Kif can attest to the superior stopping LMAO) half way through the trip they were cactus and we barely were able to stop at Bald hill to wait for the rest of the group to catch up

I can still remember the smell!!!

we then headed to the freeway and down Mt Ousley where I struggled to pull it up at the bottom of the hill in the pack of magna's
That night I knew I was upgrading and contacted Megatron for the upgrade
I have not had a problem with my brakes since

I have organised some RDA slotted rotors and QFM pads to suit, Hopefully getting it done on Friday.

I use the QFM pads with non slotted RDA rotors and to this day have never had any issues. The amount of QFM's I sell, again to this day have never had a complaint

If you are going to drive very hard (in controlled conditions of course) then the A1RM is the way to go, these are dusty and noisy but hell do they stop when they are hot

The slotted and non slotted debate will roar on always, personally for street use I would not bother, have had both many times and have always tended to stick with non slotted for street use.

A lot of it is down to driving skill as well, I have many a time been on a cruise where people are baking brakes because they simply dont know how to use gears and set up for a corner.

A lot of it is down to driving skill as well, I have many a time been on a cruise where people are baking brakes because they simply dont know how to use gears and set up for a corner.

Yup frustrates me no end, same when you get stuck behind someone in a very expensive sports car thinking they are all that and you have to back right off because they just cant drive

Pads and rotors went on, just drove it home. Seems good for now, will see it goes after bedding in.

Hey mate, just wondering how much you paid for the rotors and where you ended up purchasing them from?

Can't remember now what the exact price was but I'm thinking in the region of $600. I rang around a few places and they did a good deal on a good pads and rotors combo. One place wouldn't/couldn't tell me what pad they would put on my car as it was whatever they had at the time. Crap to that!!!

They are doing fine, no complaints.

Hey mate, just wondering how much you paid for the rotors and where you ended up purchasing them from?

See my earlier post also

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90136&p=1421093&highlight=#post1421093

Since then I have been to Brisbane a nd back with some very heavy downhill braking and some spirited work along the Putty road and am very happy

Perhaps next time I will use the QFM's to see if the creeping along at the lights judder is less evident

Put QFM's on my daughter's Mazda 6 [I know - wash my mouth out with soap :) ] and she is very happy with them.

Sorry for belated reply, and thanks guys! and telpay, no idea how i missed your earlier post, not enough caffeine in me perhaps? lol

For the rotors, God forbid i mention them, but RPW have popped up on my google search and are offering two front RDA slotted for $250? Doesn't seem too shabby a price. At 110xxxkms, i'd definitely rather pay the $300 or so to have brand new better disks than paying at least $100 just to have the old ones machined
http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=2423&category_id=286&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1

I've sent off a query for the same thing to GSL Rallysport, based in Brisbane, as i've read a few good things about him

As for pads, i just asked Kmart tyre + auto to put on some bendix gcts when they put on my new front tyres, i'll rely on my fleet provider that i work for to make sure i don't pay too extortionate a price

It's a reasonable price. Remember, those are at the base end of rotors - they're not bad (I have the non-slotted version on my Magna with 380 brakes, and have no complaints) but they're not in the same league as the DBA 4000s that have been mentioned in this thread.

The Bendix General CTs are great pads for a daily driver, but they tend to fade pretty quickly if you're pushing them hard. QFM HPX are a much better choice in this regard.

That is not too bad but these will be std rotors with slots cut into them, as above, no where near the 4000 series quality etc and you dont even know what rotor base you are getting

I can do the 4000 series for $185 each side for the fronts of the 380's and I also do QFM pads as well

That is not too bad but these will be std rotors with slots cut into them, as above, no where near the 4000 series quality etc and you dont even know what rotor base you are getting

I can do the 4000 series for $185 each side for the fronts of the 380's and I also do QFM pads as well

Four months ago I got front DBA 4000 slotteds from GSL Rallysport for $160 each delivered. This was a 'run out special' price bundled with QFM HPX pads.

'sfar as I know GSL Rallysport and everyone else except Mal have now sold out of these rotors, and these are the Australian made ones not the Chinese version, so Mal's price of $185 a side isn't too shabby.

KJ.

Correct, there was a sale a few months ago unfortunately however I dont order as many as GSL do so can not match that price lol.

I have I think without looking 3 or 4 sets left and then they are all gone.

the Australian made ones not the Chinese version, so Mal's price of $185 a side isn't too shabby.

KJ.

Does this mean that the new line of DBA rotors are made in China? How do the new DBA’s compare against the old 4000s?

Does this mean that the new line of DBA rotors are made in China? How do the new DBA’s compare against the old 4000s?

What I heard from Greg from GSL Rallysport is that the DBA 4000 series is no longer made in Oz and instead is now made in China. And that the 'old' Oz made version is better - better steel and higher manufacturing standards & quality control.

But I am unable to confirm this from another source & nothing on the DBA website about it that I can find.

KJ.

Hi All,

As a novice on rotor upgrades I thought this would be a good place to ask some general questions. As a big warning I am probably one of the most conservative members of this forum and I only consider doing mods if I am happy that they will not cause me issues with warranty, durability or motoring legislation. For example I do not run a K&N as I don’t want to risk under oiling them, or over oiling leading to damag of the MAF sensor.

I believe my 380 has a relaxed life and at 110,000 Km is still on its factory brake pads. During regular urban and freeway driving the 380 brakes perform up to my expectations and I have no reason to complain generally speaking.

Things change however on the hilly parts of the Snowy Mountains Hwy as I am confronted with glazed brake symptoms in the form of brake judder, this is repeated again on the steep sections of the Kings highway, and again on the steep sections of road between Kangaroo Valley and Nowra.

I believe that I should do something to stop brake judder and I am considering moving to better quality slotted rotors, better able handle the heat of hilly driving.

My questions to the group therefore are:
- What is the better rotor DBA 4000 or RDA slotted?
- Are there any legal issues to be aware of moving to a slotted rotor as the OEM are non-slotted?
- What is the response from the insurance companies with this kind of mod?
- As I don’t do track days and as my brake pads generally have an easy life is there any reason to move away from Mitsubishi pads?
- Are QFM HPX pads much better than stock?

Sorry for the long post.

My questions to the group therefore are:
- What is the better rotor DBA 4000 or RDA slotted? The reportedly discontinued Oz DBA 4000 is reputed to be better than the RDA (which are made in China), dunno about the 'new' Chinese DBA 4000.
- Are there any legal issues to be aware of moving to a slotted rotor as the OEM are non-slotted? Doubt it, but I haven't researched this
- What is the response from the insurance companies with this kind of mod? Unlikely they will increase the market or agreed insurance value, and I don't think they will up your premiums or refuse to insure you. Doubt they would refuse to pay out on a claim because of this mod, unless they can somehow prove that one or both new rotors were defective and were a 'crash causation factor', which is pretty unlikely.
- As I don’t do track days and as my brake pads generally have an easy life is there any reason to move away from Mitsubishi pads? The Mitsi stockers are hard & squealy
- Are QFM HPX pads much better than stock? In my opinion, yes

KJ.

Something to remember in regards to mods and insurance/warranty. Upgrading to a "better quality" rotor, be it slotted or not, is not going to effect your insurance or warranty one iota. How can it? If you meet or exceed the manufacturers specs then you are golden. Putting on something that's absolute cheap and nasty will, if you can buy a rotor worse than what car manufacturer's put on.

Running a car with rotors or pads below minimum thickness or bald tyres will effect insurance but not upgrading to better brakes.

I didn't mind the stock rotors and pads, but don't mind the RDA's and QFM's I have on now either.

I'm saddened to hear DBA have moved offshore, I use the 4000 series on my XR8.

For a standard family car you'll do fine with the RDA's in slotted with some QFM pads.

Something to remember in regards to mods and insurance/warranty. Upgrading to a "better quality" rotor, be it slotted or not, is not going to effect your insurance or warranty one iota. How can it? If you meet or exceed the manufacturers specs then you are golden. Putting on something that's absolute cheap and nasty will, if you can buy a rotor worse than what car manufacturer's put on.

Running a car with rotors or pads below minimum thickness or bald tyres will effect insurance but not upgrading to better brakes.

I didn't mind the stock rotors and pads, but don't mind the RDA's and QFM's I have on now either.

I'm saddened to hear DBA have moved offshore, I use the 4000 series on my XR8.

For a standard family car you'll do fine with the RDA's in slotted with some QFM pads.

Wrong. Anything that might affect the cars standard specifications, or desirability to thiefs they will want to know about. Slotted rotors to an opportunist thief is like nuts to a monkey.

9 times out of 10 your insurance company wont change the premium but its better to be safe than sorry

Wrong. Anything that might affect the cars standard specifications, or desirability to thiefs they will want to know about. Slotted rotors to an opportunist thief is like nuts to a monkey.

9 times out of 10 your insurance company wont change the premium but its better to be safe than sorry

What's the second hand market on used, unknown mileage rotors these days? Wheels will change a theif's interest in your car but not slotted rotors. If they steal your car it might be a bonus for them, but not the reason they took it in the first place. If you really believe that then you are in the ultra conservative range.

Im guessing its if the theif thinks its a performance car with other go-fast bits under the 'hood

Or it's one of many standard cars with slotted replacement rotors installed due to them being better priced and better performing than OEM. Brake parts are something you needn't purchase from your dealer unless you like giving away money.

Same for exhaust. What's the standard one cost to buy again Vs aftermarket? If I needed a new cat back I know I'd put on something else and never think twice about it.

Wrong. Anything that might affect the cars standard specifications, or desirability to thiefs they will want to know about. Slotted rotors to an opportunist thief is like nuts to a monkey.

9 times out of 10 your insurance company wont change the premium but its better to be safe than sorry

That's bs man I know AAMI don't care for mods like that, They say you only have to list them if you want the modification covered. Don't know what company you are with but i can smell their aids from here.

That's bs man I know AAMI don't care for mods like that, They say you only have to list them if you want the modification covered. Don't know what company you are with but i can smell their aids from here.

Its AAMI. They may well say to you "dont bother declaring" when on the phone but i guarantee the day you rear end a mercedes s500, the insurers will nit pick over EVERY single part of your car.

Trust me, i have been there mate! With AAMI!

Only problems can occur when you have illegal things on your car, even then they have to prove it was that mod that lay blame for the accident. All the people that say they won't pay out are full of it. It may be a shitfight if something happens and you have these issues but you won't lose. I bet nobody on this forum can lay claim to not being paid out a comprehensive insurance due to minor illegal mods e.g. disc brakes, wide wheels or load rated tyres.

Legal system isnt always about whos right and wrong, sometimes its who has the best story, usually told by the most expensive lawyers.

I contacted the ACT Motor Vechicle registry technical section. I asked about the law on fitting non OEM slotted rotors to a 380. I was told that as long as I do not change the rotor width or diameter, or change the caliper it is ok to use slotted rotors.

It was explained to me that rotor width or diameter increase or caliper change would need an engineer cert.

I also contacteded my insurance company, the advice given was so long as I list the change to slotted rotors they are ok with it.

I now have one of the last pair of DBA 4000s available, I will get them fitted in about 4 weeks when I can get time away from work.

I contacted the ACT Motor Vechicle registry technical section. I asked about the law on fitting non OEM slotted rotors to a 380. I was told that as long as I do not change the rotor width or diameter, or change the caliper it is ok to use slotted rotors.

It was explained to me that rotor width or diameter increase or caliper change would need an engineer cert.

I also contacteded my insurance company, the advice given was so long as I list the change to slotted rotors they are ok with it.

I now have one of the last pair of DBA 4000s available, I will get them fitted in about 4 weeks when I can get time away from work.

Easy DIY job, save yourself plenty $, only hard part is getting the old rotors off the hubs, sometimes they stick a bit hard.

Easy DIY job, save yourself plenty $, only hard part is getting the old rotors off the hubs, sometimes they stick a bit hard.

When I did my rotors pads and braided lines and new fluid bleed I only paid $100 for the lot.

What's the second hand market on used, unknown mileage rotors these days? Wheels will change a theif's interest in your car but not slotted rotors. If they steal your car it might be a bonus for them, but not the reason they took it in the first place. If you really believe that then you are in the ultra conservative range.

Remember that insurance companies don't fight their claims based on any form of logic or safety; if they can get out of paying the claim, they'll go for it!

I just bought DBA street series slotted and Bendix ultimate pads today, will see how they go, did 90000 on original rotors but they were dodgy from the start on the trip down the Gong, shuddering badly.

Remember that insurance companies don't fight their claims based on any form of logic or safety; if they can get out of paying the claim, they'll go for it!

This is wrong. Wrong on so many levels

This is wrong. Wrong on so many levels

Meh. It's called business. Don't believe ads that say they care.

When I did my rotors pads and braided lines and new fluid bleed I only paid $100 for the lot.

That's a good price!

A lot of people seem to have rotor problems, warpage and wear seems to be a problem on newer cars. I wonder why?
With front wheel drive, I think uneven or over tightening of wheel nuts might have something to do with it. Anyone using a torque wrench on the wheel nuts have problems with the discs warping? Might just be poor materials in the discs though.

Meh. It's called business. Don't believe ads that say they care.

Agreed. I have waited 7 weeks and they havent accepted liability yet.

The iron content in them or quality of to keep manufacturing costs down has seen them not wear as they once use to.

Meh. It's called business. Don't believe ads that say they care.

Considering I actually worked in claims I know how it works. Dont believe the BS you hear from ACA

The iron content in them or quality of to keep manufacturing costs down has seen them not wear as they once use to.

DBA offloaded street series rotors to china- quality drops. Stick with the upper range DBAs and you are OK

I don't care where they are made, has no meaning to whether they are made the same way / with the same materials. Luckily these things have warranty :D

I don't care where they are made, has no meaning to whether they are made the same way / with the same materials. Luckily these things have warranty :D

you should care. QA in china still isn't nearly as high as australian standards.

I just bought DBA street series, they made to order in Australia.
DBA offloaded street series rotors to china- quality drops. Stick with the upper range DBAs and you are OK

I don't care where they are made, has no meaning to whether they are made the same way / with the same materials. Luckily these things have warranty :D


Of course it matters, how else do you think the chinese turn 1 tonne into 5.

I just bought DBA street series, they made to order in Australia.

And i quote:

"DBA rotors (Street & Street Slotted) are all made in China, and have their final machining done in Australia. The DBA 4000 & 5000 series are all made in Australia, and come with the Kangaroo Paw design."

So yes, they are made to order in australia, and then shipped from China. Unless you have something on the packaging saying Made In Australia?

Of course it matters, how else do you think the chinese turn 1 tonne into 5.

yeah cause they Makeep it up using clay :/

They use very low levels of carbon in the rotors when casting. They are soft and wear out prematurely

Why do they do that? how does that save them money?

Why do they do that? how does that save them money?

What? Do you know what steel is? Its "carbonised" iron for lack of a better term. Carbon is added to iron to make steel. It makes it stronger, but the more carbon you add, the more it costs to make. Geddit? Cheaper steel rotors have less carbon, making them cheaper but also more brittle and have lower tolerences to heat cycles etc etc

oh i read it as. the good ones have no carbon and the cheap have added carbon. that's why i was like wtf is this twat talking about :D

I hope you dont kiss your mother with that mouth!

Yeh Yeh.

I think he kisses YOUR Mum with that mouth!!!
I hope you dont kiss your mother with that mouth!