View Full Version : Shudder
rickyboy
08-08-2011, 07:27 AM
Hi Guys...I have had my TE Auto for five years and in that time it hasnt missed a beat.....it had 125k when purchased and I had timing belt,water pump etc done at 180k.....it has 210k on it now.I use it 99% running around the burbs and all is ok....however whenever I venture onto the freeway....even as I get 80k the steering wheel wobbles and when the car gets to 100k it wobbles violently.....I have found if I pull over...wait till all is clear and back up at a medium pace and brake hard it goes away.I had the front checked about three years ago and had the front left wheel bearing replaced.My question is the car can run around the suburbs up to 90kph and all is ok.....is it the surface on the freeway causing this or is there a safety issue here...thanks for any info
MadMax
08-08-2011, 07:41 AM
Could be pads rubbing on warped rotors, could be worn steering components. My TS at 220,000 km did the same, a disc skim ($50) and new ball joints ($70) fixed the same problem. I had also previously replaced the tie rods as the steering rack boots had perished and the ball joints at the end of the tie rods (normally protected by the steering rack boots) as they had developed some play.
To fix/isolate problem:
(1) Jack up one front wheel, try to wriggle it left/right, if any play look which bit moves. Check steering rack boots on that side for tear. Repeat other side. Replace tie rod and boot if damaged/worn/play.
(2) Turn wheel by hand - in neutral - and feel for tight spots. (warped rotor)
(3) Ball joint - uncouple from arm, put nut back on, use torque wrench and test turning torque. Spec in manual. The old fashioned method of using a lever to look for play doesn't work. If the starting torque is too low, remove arm and take to workshop to get new ball joints pressed in.
While the front is in bits, check the cv shafts for torn boots and binding at the cv joints.
Cheap as a DIY exercise, but due to the labour involved won't be cheap to get checked/done.
I'm surprised the front end components last as long as they do without problems, considering the weight on it, while putting power to the road as well as doing the steering.
Magna Carta
13-08-2011, 02:45 PM
Check for the simple things before the complex / expensive things.
Have you had your wheels balanced?
Wobbling at high speeds of often caused by out of balance wheels. The higher rotational speeds amplifies the little imperfections in the wheel, resulting in wobbling through the steering wheel.
Swap front wheels for rear to check if it's tyres out of balance. Seems strange that you can make the shudder go away....you say you brake hard to make it go away - that would suggest to me that braking hard is forcing the wheels towards the rear and due to a worn control arm bush or whatever, the wheels take up a different position and the shudder goes away (temporarily).
How is the wear pattern on the front tyres - is it even side to side - worn edges - scalloped etc?
I'd try all of Madmax's suggestions...also check the subframe to body connections and rack mounting bolts.
rickyboy
05-09-2011, 07:07 AM
Thanks for the replies.....been driving around problem free since....saw Mal....he suggested to throw into neutral next time it happens.Yesterday went on the dreaded freeway to Frankston...at varying speeds in and out of cruise control and went perfect.However on the return trip..on entering the freeway about half a k,all hell broke loose through the front wheels and steering wheel.....threw it immediatly into neutral(checked behind me first)it stayed tthe same....applied the brakes pulling over and felt like the frontend of the car was falling apart.Ithen did the usual trick....reversed up about 10 mtrs braked and then headed off again....car running perect all the way home.....Mal suggested neutral to check if was torque convertor..appears no.Now need to see Mal or never go on a freeway with it ever again!
Madmagna
05-09-2011, 07:37 AM
I think you had better book in and we need to see if we can duplicate the issue, from what you state above is definately not the torque converter, the reversing part has me a little perplexed but I am sure we will get to the bottom of this one
67wogval
05-09-2011, 10:23 AM
I think you better book it in for a full safety check, don`t mess with something which could take your life, obviously something isnt right!!
shipy59
05-09-2011, 08:52 PM
You have a tyre starting to seperate! swap tyres front to rear and it will dissapear. Had it before with old tyres. Dont venture out on highway fast as it could let go at any time. Very hard to see but if you accelerate hard then get the wobble slow without hitting brakes then check tyres carefully for any strange bumps.
rickyboy
06-09-2011, 07:17 AM
Sorry....didnt mention in my original post that I swapped over the complete set of wheels and tyres about 2 years ago....look better....was doing the same and after the change...so rules that out as well....thanks anyway.
MadMax
06-09-2011, 08:33 AM
Sounds like there is a major wear problem at the front end, or something like caliper bolts or wheel nuts are loose - I wouldn't drive the car too fast as it is, and get it checked over ASAP.
BUT seeing your original post was about a month ago, you don't seem to be in any hurry . . . . .
rickyboy
06-09-2011, 03:05 PM
Thanks again for the replies......it has been doing this for five years.....bought with a RWC too......have had many safety checks done too.....must admit get complacent with it due never happens driving around the suburbs...its our second car....but getting a bit fed up with it again not knowing..need to give myself a kick in the A and do something.
lone_slayer
17-12-2011, 05:19 PM
when was the last time you flushed the gearbox and put new MITSI atf in? My Galant had a similar shudder and changing the ATF fixed it. though i was able to change gear and rev range it would disapair
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