I am going to do a engine swap on the ol te and I just need to know what parts I am going to need to buy, especially, I need to know about the ecu. Will mine run the 3.8, and will the gearbox bolt straight up

Thanks

ive been told the gearbox is fine, just swap over the flywheel.
i am also curious as if the 3.0L ECU could run the 3.8, i cant see why not as it can run the 3.5, as you swap over all the sensors from the 72 anyway, such as crank angle ect.
main problem i can see is the legality of doing this, as you cant increase an engines capacity from a certain percentage (cant remember what) than what was the maximum available in that car.
i.e: the TE was availble in 2.6 4cyl or 3.0L V6 a 3.5 conversion is under the percentage, but a 3.8 is over.
perhaps you could argue the point that a KE was available in a 3.5L

I also thought the te came with the option of the 3.5. Iight be wrong there.
Also, due to the fact its the same series of engine, would I still need it to be engineered?

Only the KE came with the 3.5, TH was the first with the 3.5 as an option

There were a few freak TE/TFs that had 6G74s from factory..

But it'd be a hard point to argue..

Id get it engineered to be safe..

SuFz

the 6G75 is a coil on plug motor ( no dissy ) so you cant use the existing ECU.

Get a tj ecu with the 3.8 tune from skr put on it I've heard they plug straight into tfs providing it's a manual ecu but I see you have a Te you might as well change the looms to tj spec and then you can flash the ecu!

the 6G75 is a coil on plug motor ( no dissy ) so you cant use the existing ECU.

You take the COP setup off and put the dizzy in....

I am going to do a engine swap on the ol te and I just need to know what parts I am going to need to buy, especially, I need to know about the ecu. Will mine run the 3.8, and will the gearbox bolt straight up

Thanks

my best bet ask mal aka madmagna will get the right answer first time

I've done 2 6G75 conversions... If you want to know more, send me a PM?

There were no TF;s with 3.5 from factory, this is a myth that has yet to be proven correct. I have seen a few with the badges and even the dealers have noted as 3.5 but the engine number is still 6G72xxxxxx

The TJ ecu will work, you will have to match either auto or manual however yourt check engine light will remain on as the TH onwards has a Barra Sensor. If you dont mind taking out your check engine light that is then fine

The motor will not be safe to run with the 3.0 ECU, will not last long at all

The box will bolt up, you can also use the magna flywheel but a 380 flywheel with 380 exedy kit is much better

Some say that there are lean out issues with the 3.8 but I am personally yet to experience this, I would say that the issue is more in the tune than the fuel system as the Magna fuel system is more than ok to run a 3.8 in stock trim

Engine harness is not just swap plug and play either, you will have several issues starting if you have cruise, this will not work as the system is totally different, if you have an exec with no features then you can change the harness but you will need to modify some of the internal plugs as they will not plug into your existing dash harness

Tjtime and myself where suffering from it Mal I'm running a Ralliart tune and ben is running a skr 98 tune and both where leaning out in the upper rev range

THat is fine but can you 100% say that it is a fuel delivery issue, ie did you test fuel flow and pressure in this rev range or is it just an assumption that the system is at fault. Really need to determine where the issue is and given that the SKR tunes done by Steve have not had any delivery issues to date I am fairly sceptical that the system is the issue.

Without going into great detail in one work don't do the extra injector business.

Its not needed in a N/A car as the sotck injectors are actually larger than what ht ecar needs and can provide fuel easily up to 200kw the problem would be more fuel pump which is where the car would need an upgrade.

Extra injectors before throttle bodies are dangerous. They do not provide equal fuel distribution to all cylinders - especially on a6 cyl magn with long runners and as such you need to run it extremely rich on some cylinders so that the other cylinders run right.

If you want larger injectors with a piggy back ECU like the greddy, then that is no problem but again not something to worry about with the N/A magna.

We found that hte stock fuel pump is good for 200hp at the front wheels max. after this we upgrade the fuel pump to a unit twice hte flow rate and good for around 275 hp at the front wheel.s

I've read the fuel pump is good for "200hp at the front wheels" quite a few times on AMC, and it seems we are reaching the upper limits with the 6G75.

That being said, I'll be re-installing my wideband soon enough and I'll see what WOT AFR's are at before and after I put in a new fuel filter.

Or: This


The stock pumps limits seem to vary heaps. Some can get 200kws out of them and others struggle to supply fuel for 150. In all honesty a higher flowing fuel pump upgrade is cheap and easy insurance against any lean out issues due to a struggling pump. It was the first thing Steve asked me the day my car was leaning out on the dyno.

Ok, so tj ecu and bem I assume, and some splicing on the wiring. What's the go with the immob when I change the ecu over?

You can completely disable it if you know what you're doing

For the TJ ecu+bem I'm pretty sure you'll need the looms and stuff. Which means you'll need to find one without ABS and airbags and shit or a TH... There should be something at the wreckers around town.

Mechanical wise, you'll need parts off your 3.0L for the 3.8L to work properly. Crank angle sensor, water rail, lower plenum, auxiliaries, dizzy. You've said you've previously done a timing belt so just about all of that you'll make short work of if you go ahead with it.

I've recently had my 3.8L apart which I could have showed you in person what is needed, but it's all back together now. :)

Stay away from the 380 at ACE wreckers. Someone has pinched the injectors off that motor a long time ago and it's had the hood up during the last wet season (water ingress and foreign matter inside piston chambers). They are also asking a stupid price for it - $2000.

The past 6 months there's been a couple of 380 at the auctions, but I don't know where they ended up.

THat is fine but can you 100% say that it is a fuel delivery issue, ie did you test fuel flow and pressure in this rev range or is it just an assumption that the system is at fault. Really need to determine where the issue is and given that the SKR tunes done by Steve have not had any delivery issues to date I am fairly sceptical that the system is the issue.

we had both on the dyno last week and they where reading our afr's and they where running lean at around 5300rpm they recommended upgrading the fuel pump to solve the problem

So if I go a th ecu, do they run a bem? Or will I still need to swap over the harnesses. I am trying to do this and make I work properly for as little money and effort as possible. I have no worries doing the work but the last thing I want is to do it all then realize that I could have done it for less money and with less effort

How come the 3.0 ecu won't be safe?
what about a piggy back ecu? So you can control timing and fueling

Cheaper and more reliable to just swap over ECU's. I can flash ecu's with ralliart tunes

yeah but ive already got a piggy back installed and running

Then you could get your piggyback tuned after you put in a 3.8. Its just that I could have loaded up a tune that safe to drive around on (ralliart tune) if you had a TJ+ Ecu in there

Maybe a FAQ could be posted? Im interested now...