Looking at new muffler/ air filter and tune for 98 RON (CAI is being investigated, looks like a go). Also new suspension, (its still tight but 130,000km done) I have looked at many bits and pieces but a final thought from the magna community would be great. happy to drop $400 + each on both suspension and muffler. Will be purchasing most items from Mitsfix by the looks of it too.

I would definitely suggest having a good search through the forums before you commit to anything, as modifications are a oft discussed topic.

The stock VR muffler is high-flow and there's nothing to be gained by changing it (apart from a different note... and maybe some drone).

$400 won't get you a suspension upgrade either. Springs alone are about $250, but there's a fair bit of labour involved in changing them, and a wheel alignment (a requisite) is around the $80 mark. I would definitely recommend changing your shocks at the same time - by this age, they will be nearing replacement. It's no extra labour compared to changing springs. Plus, you'll ride and handle better.

Cheers mate. I forgot to mention the muffler has holes just before the rear can so i wasnt too sure about repair or replacement.. I will need both springs and shocks, thanks for the tip. Bloody wheel alignment for the AWD, it does'nt take a great deal of shit NQ roads for it to start pulling.

As long as you have the Sports muffler (single outlet) which i think yours is then that is the best you can do.
The best thing to do is put a set of HM extractors on. These make quite a difference to performance. Don't go changing anything else with your exhaust. It will have no effect on the performance. Don't go a hi flow cat. That makes no difference also other than giving the car an awful sound.
I have tried and tried with AWD exhaust components to gain power and give a better noise/note. Nothing works. It only goes downhill.
The best thing to do to give you the best note/performance is the HM extractors and the rest stock factory as long as you have that single outlet muffler(sports muffler).

As for engine, all you need to do is get a set of Ralliart cams or 380 cams. Thats the best you can really do. Don't bother with different air filters and air intakes. They have no positive result. Once again, leave stock and make sure you have a good genuine air filter in.
And the just the 98 ECU tune.
Thats all you can do mate other than a 3.8 motor form a 380.

Thanks. I do have the single outlet sports muffler so the HM extractors sound good, will be checking them out. I've perused reviews on CAI through the forum, it does sound pretty simple and like everyone else i feel the motor is getting a big gulp of hot air upon acceleration, most notable at lights etc but crack it open at speed and it seems to work fine. I have replaced the air filter often so its never dirty, but i'm not keen on cutting the battery box in any way due to insulation stress so it looks like a no go for now.

I thought the VR, VR-X came standard with Ralliart gear, i.e. cams, brakes etc?

Anyway, the 380 cams sound interesting. I take it that its not a very large job to swap them over? I would be looking at having all the work done at once as opposed to a stage by stage project, with the final job being the 98 ECU tune. When i consider all this, would a 380 engine swap be just as good? The reviews on here praise it but i'm unsure if it will fit the AWD.

Once again, thanks for the solid advice.

I thought the VR, VR-X came standard with Ralliart gear, i.e. cams, brakes etc?
The AWD's brakes are virtually identical to the Ralliart. However, the Ralliart is the only FWD model with upgraded brakes.

By the TL series, the only mechanical difference between the base models and the sports models was the free-flowing sports exhaust. The Ralliart cams, extractors and tune are unique to just the Ralliart.

There's been a few AWDs with the 380 motor fitted - Madmagna from Mitsfix has done some. It's supposed to be a good upgrade as the 3.8l is a bit torquier which helps the AWD get off the line better.

Another good fix is to advance the cams around 6°, ideal time to do this is when the cam belt is being changed, also get rid of the difference between the rear and front bank cams.
Coupled with good headers, slightly bigger exhaust and a 3" 200 cpi metal cat and there is a massive difference in bottom end torque.
However I agree with the thinking that the best fix is to change to the 380 engine. Latest dyno results confirm that this substantally improves torque and power output. Also means that you are, hopefully, putting in a much newer engine.
Gerry

Talk to MitsFix in regards to any of this work.
HM's are the best extractors for the job as they bolt straight onto the car without any mod's needed unlike other brands. They were designed alongside Mitsubishi.
Your's will only have no 6 cam's, Ralliart cams are no 7's and 380's are no 15's.
There is a big difference between 6 and 7 cams. 7 and 15 are the same.
Don't bother with changing your air intake. No advantage. Leave it stock.
Whatever you do, do the 98 tune last after all mods.

I currently have a 380 motor for sale with approx 68,000 k's on it. Its going for $1800 but i have some keen interest so prob wont last long.

Thanks everyone! The 380 motor sounds awesome and the price is great too. I think it will be my best option as with dollars spent vs power gained. Once the springs and shocks are done i'll be on the hunt. Is it possible to purchase a new 380 motor with a warranty from Mitsubishi?