My brakes having been working as good as they have been
So I went to a work shop and he said it's not the
Pads but he said about some metel filings around the disk
Anyone got any ideas?

Are your disks flat where the pad applys or are they heavily grooved?

They are flat and ones not groved at all and one got one lite one

can anyone help?

How big are these filings? A real fine grit? How many Kms have the rotors done?

il have a look tomorrow and post up so pics if it will help ,umm im not sure, its done 171xxxx

Your pads may have gone off and be going brittle.
I have seen it before.
Pull off the pads on one corner and have a look.
Might be time for some new pads possibly.

can u help me with some steeps how to replace them?
do i need to bleed them ? all 4 even if i just do the front?
and go with the qfm hpx? or whats a good pad?

http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc373/Glen_Dobbs/DSCF3253.jpg
http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc373/Glen_Dobbs/DSCF3251.jpg
http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc373/Glen_Dobbs/DSCF3249.jpg

add pics i dont know how much they help but hope they do

Those rotors dont have much meat left

could that be the course ?

There doesnt look like theres any pads there..

SuFz :ninja:

There doesnt look like theres any pads there..

SuFz :ninja:
i hope there is

There doesnt look like there's much meat on the rotors either.. but we can't tell 100% unless they're in our hands.

Replace your discs and pads - A little costly yeah, but what else is gonna stop your car?

SuFz

what ever is in my way hahaha jokes il get them looked at soon

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Front-Disc-Brake-Rotor-Mitsubishi-Magna-TE-TF-TH-4-V6-/400216779645?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d2ec76b7d#ht_2106wt_1139
grab these ?

Those rotors dont have much meat left

They look fine for the Km they have done. You need to actually measure the thickness before the above statement has any value.


There doesnt look like theres any pads there..

SuFz :ninja:

Can't tell from the picture. Pads might be down to the bone, or horribly glazed.

I would just drop some new pads in the brakes, bleed them, bed them in gently, then see how they go. If you get a brake shop to do this, they will be able to check if the rotors are still ok. It's about $50 to get them skimmed to as new - had mine done at 240,000 km and the shop said they were ok - I wouldn't bother getting new ones if the brake shop says yours are still ok.

and what pad you reckon i should get?

try this one
http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc373/Glen_Dobbs/DSCF3252.jpg

Talk to Mal (Mitsfix) he'll be able to sort it out for you..

New Rotors & QFM Pads..

MadMax: He would know if there werent any pads there.. LOL! (I Hope....)

SuFz :ninja:

Obviously! I'm just disagreeing with statements like "no meat on the rotor" and "no pads in there" because you can't tell from those photos. lol

No pads would make the pistons pop out, leak brake fluid, and your brakes would be . . . . not working too well, to say the least! lol

I would pull all 4 pads out, compare them for lining thickness (uneven wear between two off the same rotor means sliding pins need lubricating, different thickness from one side of the car to the other means a piston is seizing) and glazing. Then I would photograph them for all to see! lol


http://www.ultimatespares.co.uk/a13-techpages/b173-performance-brakes/Pics/fig01.jpg

Glazed pads - not off a Magna, obviously.


http://farm1.static.flickr.com/148/431023085_d96e82c850.jpg

Old versus new - once a pad gets down to the metal, it makes a lot of noise and doesn't do much as far as braking goes. Wrecks the rotor too.
http://www.renault-turbo.com/chris/Simons%20megane/si%20meg%20rear%20discs%2003.jpg
Uneven pad wear. Also not off a Magna. lol

Obviously! I'm just disagreeing with statements like "no meat on the rotor" and "no pads in there" because you can't tell from those photos. lol

No pads would make the pistons pop out, leak brake fluid, and your brakes would be . . . . not working too well, to say the least! lol

Lol.. Hence why i said you cant be sure till you've got em in your hands!

SuFz :ninja:

When I overhaul front brakes, I pop the pistons out to clean out the grot in there and check the bore for scoring and the piston for rust marks/grooves. Pins get lubricated, discs skimmed if needed, new pads, everything torqued up right. Fluid change and bleed. Never fails to improve brake feel and controllability, especially important if you have non ABS brakes.

Haven't done this on my TJ (yet) as it has 120,000 Km on it, but did this to my two TSs at 220,000 and 240,000 Km. Big improvement. Learnt my lesson from Sigmas, which had shocking brakes if neglected.

brakes pads arnt that hard to do?

Max, there is a very pronounced lip on the rim, leading me to the statement that the rotors are quite worn down.

There is a massive score mark in the third picture.

At a minimum new pads, best result would be to have the discs skimmed with new pads, however skimming will be almost as expensive as something like RDA rotors.

Don't buy cheap pads. If they are less than about $50 then they will be nowhere as good as decent Bendix, Ferodo, EBC or similar quailty brands.

When was the brake fluid last changed??
When was the last time that the calipers were cleaned and relubricated - I am referring to the sliding pin assembly.
Gerry

brakes pads arnt that hard to do?

Front Pads - 30 mins at most

Get yourself a set of rotors while you're at it..

Remove Wheel
Remove Caliper
Lube Caliper
Replace Pads with New Ones
Replace Rotor with New One
Replace Caliper onto Disc
Replace Wheel

If you've got someone with you who has a bit of know how when it comes to cars, its a great learning experience!

SuFz :ninja:

If you need to ask how to change disc pads, you should really ask a friend who has done it before (cheap) to show you or get a pro shop to do it (more expensive) and ask if you can look over their shoulder - don't want to get it wrong, do we?

that[ic looks like u may have picked up a stone or something between pad and rotor, it happemned to me before, machine the rotors and get new pads, Bendix will do, unless yr racing the thing, and flush the fluid while yr at it, never hurts

On yr ebay post, when I put pads and rotors in my TF I got brand new Teflon rotors for 44 bucks at Brakepro, and bendix pads, with a fluid flush cost me about 260 all up, it's never expensive to be safe. The rears are a little more expensive, and one of the earlier posts was right new rotoers and maching the old ones isn't much of a diff pricewize

Front Pads - 30 mins at most

Get yourself a set of rotors while you're at it..

Remove Wheel
Remove Caliper
Lube Caliper
Replace Pads with New Ones
Replace Rotor with New One
Replace Caliper onto Disc
Replace Wheel

If you've got someone with you who has a bit of know how when it comes to cars, its a great learning experience!

SuFz :ninja:
no bleeding?

My local auto one sells new rotors for only $45 each.
Machining rotors only makes them thinner so it better to replace them in most cases.
It wouldn't hurt to change the brake fluid while you're at it.
That way you know all is good.

I'd be checking the caliper and/or mounting. If all good, check the discs are serviceable; machine and new pads.

Also, these are a floating disc... are your discs still floating and not fixed? Not 100% sure, but over tightening wheel nuts can do odd things.