if i install these springs will i have to replace the shock absorbers aswell? :pleasesign:

Not if you don't want to ,depends on the age of your original shocks.

As far as i know ,there is no after market replacement available yet.

Not if you don't want to ,depends on the age of your original shocks.

As far as i know ,there is no after market replacement available yet.

Lowered springs will make your shocks work a bit harder and wear out a bit quicker.
Stock shocks with stock springs should last to 150,000k, but with lowered springs (especially if you go superlows) the shocks start to get a bit iffy by 100,000k.
KYB do aftermarket shocks for the 380, front & rear, but by all reports they are not much better than stock, and Boges are much better.
ATM Boge do rears only for a 380, the fronts have been 'in testing' for over a year now, can't be long before they are released.
I'm hanging out for the Boges, I've now done 104,xxxk on Kings superlows front & lows rear and the stock shocks are starting to show it.

I have a set of test boge here I am putting in my 380, I have been nagging Boge for ages about this on pretty much a weekly basis however even once we give them feedback then they have to get the stock so will not be any time soon unfortunately

I also do Koni for the 380, they are more expensive BUT are awesome in the 380

Again with springs, I have done both kings and dobinsons in the 380 and found the dobinsons will give a better all over ride

im only lowering it 30 to 35mm, im only really wanting to put stock shocks back in im thinking. are those springs on ebay that i was looking at any good?

I have been on Kings Lows for over a year now and on stock shocks

never had a much of a problem

I have been on Kings Lows for over a year now and on stock shocks

never had a much of a problem

Same here. Interesting Konis are available for the 380. Anyone fitted them and price?

How are the King lows with towing? As in a trailer and car would I be better off looking at Industrial spring heavy duty?

how much are new shocks??

ditto,how much for the Koni shocks for the 380?

related question - not sure if this should be a new thread or not - what's the actual difference (if any) in "spring rate" between King Lows for the 380 and the standard VRX springs? i've just replaced my standard springs with the King lows and can't really notice much of a difference in ride quality...(mind you i've only got 18" wheels - which in my opinion made a bigger difference (compared to the 17" wheels) than the springs...(i know it's only a 1" difference but it seemed more noticeable than the change to lowere springs. Of course that could be me not yet doing any "spirited" driving/cornering with the new springs...

In case anyone wanted to know - found out from Mitsubishi the stock springs on 17" wheeled 380s (which i take means the VRX/GT/SX) was 33 N/mm Front, and 26 N/mm Rear.

Found out from King Springs that the Front Low spring for the 380 is 220 lbs/inch and for the Rear Low is 195 lbs/inch.

I had a go at converting to N/mm and came up with 38.5 n/mm front, and 34.1 n/mm rear (is this right).

This makes a 17% increase in spring rate for the front, and a 31% increase for the rear with King Low springs all round.

So: May not need that stiffer (24-26 mm) rear sway bar after lowering? What do the more edumacated members here think?

In case anyone wanted to know - found out from Mitsubishi the stock springs on 17" wheeled 380s (which i take means the VRX/GT/SX) was 33 N/mm Front, and 26 N/mm Rear.

Found out from King Springs that the Front Low spring for the 380 is 220 lbs/inch and for the Rear Low is 195 lbs/inch.

I had a go at converting to N/mm and came up with 38.5 n/mm front, and 34.1 n/mm rear (is this right).

This makes a 17% increase in spring rate for the front, and a 31% increase for the rear with King Low springs all round.

So: May not need that stiffer (24-26 mm) rear sway bar after lowering? What do the more edumacated members here think?

Mate,

I have Kings lows on the rear & superlows on the front, and about two years ago I fitted a Selby 26mm heavy duty rear sway bar.

It has three bolt holes to choose from, so you can set it to 'stiff', medium stiff and OMG stiff.

BUT - unless you track it and/or love hooning through roundabouts at warp speed, AND you really know what you are doing and know how to counter large amounts of lift off oversteer in a FWD, it's probably not worth the hassle.

I'm more a grandpa cruiser these days so I took mine off about a year ago and refitted the stock sway bar.

KJ.

thanks mate.

I think you're right I will prob steer clear of the sway bar as I wouldn't pretend to be such a good driver that I could handle oversteer in w front wheel drive. (All I'd end up doing is pointing it in the direction I want and flooring it and I don't think that's how it's done :eek2:)

Cheers