Hey guys,

Recently I've had alittle problem pop up with my car
The car will randomly start then stall and I can't restart the car without turning it off then back on again.
If I try to start it after it stalls without going back to OFF then the car wont fire at all, starter motor will keep cranking but wont turn over.
Now I have searched and people say it's more then likely the battery, so I pulled it out and gave it a charge so now its fully charged fault free
But when I went to start it today it stalled again, I have an Optima Bluetop battery
So, my question is, other then the battery what else could cause this problem?
I have a TL magna

Cheers

suspect CAS or immobiliser would be next on my list... do you have a spare key to try and rule out the chip in the key?

Happened to me 2 weeks ago. It was the immobilser cable running under the steering wheel, the connection was loose

I have the same problem I just car on and off few times and it starts up fine

Have got a spare key so will try that and see if she stalls again
Otherwise i'll start checking connections to narrow it down more
Is the CAS easy to replace?

Tried the apare today and it stalled again, so isnt the key :)
Will try and trace some wires on the weekend to check for loose connections and such

Have got a spare key so will try that and see if she stalls again
Otherwise i'll start checking connections to narrow it down more
Is the CAS easy to replace?

If the stall is within a second or two of it starting, it sounds to me like the immobiliser kicking in, which would match the symptom where you have to turn the ignition OFF before another attempt. I seem to recall some threads about a loose wire or connector pin being well known for this problem.

If the stall is within a second or two of it starting, it sounds to me like the immobiliser kicking in, which would match the symptom where you have to turn the ignition OFF before another attempt. I seem to recall some threads about a loose wire or connector pin being well known for this problem.

Yea have heard the same thing
So ill be checking all connections on the weekend
Hopefully its just a loose connection

if the car starts then immediately stalls it is the battery. If it cranks but does not start it is the immobiliser circuit.
If your battery is over 3 years old or is small then the battery is stuffed.

Gerry

I have had this problem aswell, and it was the battery. Although it may seem fine, if the voltage drops the car will stall

if the car starts then immediately stalls it is the battery. If it cranks but does not start it is the immobiliser circuit.
If your battery is over 3 years old or is small then the battery is stuffed.

Gerry

So your saying that even tho it stalls the first time an I reattempted to start it again without going back to off thats it's the battery?
I know that the battery can play a factor in this, but I have fully recharged the battery back to 100% health and the charger showed the battery fault free as have acouple other people
Its the fact that it doesnt restart without going back to off that makes me think its the immobolier more, cause its a healthy crank but sounds like theres nothing there to spark it
As I have said ill be checking the connections to make sure nothings loose or broken

No - immobiliser will mean that the car will crank but will not start.
Battery will be start and immediately die, second start will be OK.
A battery has a finite life in a car. It will only work well for a certain number of charge and discharge cycles.
High CCA battery often have very densely packed plates, not exactly conducive to long battery life, add in the extremely high underbonnet temperatures which are prevalent in an Australian summer and this is why batteries do not last very long here.

How old is the battery?? If over 3 years old then this is most likely to be the problem.
I tried the battery charger trick, did not make any difference.
If you don't believe me and many others who have bothered to spell out exactly what to do then check for yourself.
Borrow a reasonable size, less than 2 year old battery, and try the starting scenario.

Otherwise ring a Mitsubishi dealer and explain the symptoms - First time the dealer said "come in and we'll put a new battery in" dead right as I had deliberately delayed 3 months until winter was approaching. The result with the new battery was an immediate fix.
Fast forward 3 years plus. Symptoms return. Car in for service - new battery - problem gone again.
The message is that the ECU is very voltage sensitive and will complain if the voltage is low, hence the immediate start and then stall scenarios.


Gerry

No - immobiliser will mean that the car will crank but will not start.
Battery will be start and immediately die, second start will be OK.
A battery has a finite life in a car. It will only work well for a certain number of charge and discharge cycles.
High CCA battery often have very densely packed plates, not exactly conducive to long battery life, add in the extremely high underbonnet temperatures which are prevalent in an Australian summer and this is why batteries do not last very long here.

How old is the battery?? If over 3 years old then this is most likely to be the problem.
I tried the battery charger trick, did not make any difference.
If you don't believe me and many others who have bothered to spell out exactly what to do then check for yourself.
Borrow a reasonable size, less than 2 year old battery, and try the starting scenario.

Otherwise ring a Mitsubishi dealer and explain the symptoms - First time the dealer said "come in and we'll put a new battery in" dead right as I had deliberately delayed 3 months until winter was approaching. The result with the new battery was an immediate fix.
Fast forward 3 years plus. Symptoms return. Car in for service - new battery - problem gone again.
The message is that the ECU is very voltage sensitive and will complain if the voltage is low, hence the immediate start and then stall scenarios.


Gerry

I never said I didnt believe you nor was I saying your wrong
I know that the ECU will kill the engine if theres a voltage drop
All I was asking if there could be anything that could cause the same problem because someetimes it stalls twice before starting
The battery is only 2 years old which is why its abit odd, but yes could be the battery
And the car dies once the revs start to drop back down to idle rpm

I had the same problem and was told it was the battery. didnt think it was as the battery seemed ok.
One day the battery gave up so had to get a new one.
Have had no problem stating since the new battery.

you said you had an optima bluetop installed, the service life of these batteries is very long and when they fail it is a sudden drop so will lose all electrical like windows if it was dead. i would be more curious about the imoboliser system as they allow you to crank but not fire. i am not an expert but have my mvtc in electrica accessories

I too had this problem, replaced the battery and it fixed it. My thought on the matter is that if you can check the connections that were mentioned earlier in the thread, easily enough fine. But if you have to start paying someone to get involved to fix it, I would change the battery first.

Yup, same here. Starts then dies on first attempts. But after a second try and with a little gas she was alright. Then my battery died...after nearly 6 months. New battery, no problems since.

If you can borrow a temp battery just to foind out, do so before going out and buying one - just for peace of mind.

Bit of an update,
Car will not longer fire, just keeps cranking
Sounds like my other car when the fuel pump went on it
So will be giving the car alook over tomorrow to see if I can find anything suss
Will also try and source a spare battery just to see also
But the car did fire then stalled three times in a row and on the fourth time it just keeps cranking

Managed to get the car to fire today so I could move it into the garage
Checked over everything that I could see
Took the coil ring off the ignition barrel to inspect it and the connection
Tried to start car with the coil ring off the barrel and I got the same thing that happened last night with the car just keeps cranking but doesnt fire
Put the ring back on and fires first time without stalling so its making me wonder if this is causing the problems
Connection did seem alittle loose under the dash, so will see how she goes and if I still have problems i might redo the connection

One of my girls TJ Magnas did this a few years ago. There is a 2 pin connector under the steering column for the immobilizer. I did find the solution here, with a pic of the connector posted. Definitely a thread or more here refers.

Pull the connector apart, tweek the pins a bit, and reassemble with some lube like Lanotec or Silicone grease. I also put a zip tie around it to make sure it never somes loose again and no problems since. Others recommended cutting the connector out and soldering up the wires, but I thought that was overkill.

Steve