View Full Version : Clutch problem
Sarah_au
31-08-2011, 01:19 PM
Ok I got the car back together, still got a few days before it is one year since the clutch went. I started it and went through all the gears real smooth. Too smooth in fact so I checked and yep my manual was now an automatic of sorts. I can change gear without using the clutch.
I think the problem is that I used too many washers in shimmying up the ball and socket.
Now before I spend another year taking it all apart again maybe someone has some ideas and it aint that she says hopefully, very hopefully lol.
Seriously though having done it and now having all the tools etc I expect to be able to do it in about 6 hours. *sigh*
XiLurk
31-08-2011, 02:36 PM
Does it happen on the downshift or only on the upshift?
Are you rev-matching.
Can you smell clutch?
Sarah_au
31-08-2011, 05:48 PM
Does it happen on the downshift or only on the upshift?
Are you rev-matching.
Can you smell clutch?
happens whether up or down and no I am not rev matching else it wouldnt be a problem
Dont need to smell it I am not letting it run enough to get warm because the clutch is sticking.
Dont worry though I am resigned to doing it again thanks.
MadMax
31-08-2011, 06:46 PM
Two things to check first:
(1) Free play on the clutch pedal - you should be able to press the clutch pedal 1 or 2 cm down by hand. If there is no freeplay here the master cylinder will pump up (not release pressure when you let the clutch up) and it will slip.
There is a 14 mm nut on the rod high up on the clutch pedal, slacken that off, turn the rod by hand to get the right free play, and do up the nut.
(2) Lever adjustment at the gearbox - where the release lever comes out of the gearbox, the lever itself sits in a window. It should be sitting in the middle of the window when the clutch is up. You need to pull the rubber boot off, and unbolt the slave cylinder from the side of the gearbox. There should be some easy movement of this lever, by hand, when you press it in the normal release direction. Shims are the only way to get this right.
This examination will tell you if you have too many/not enough/right number of shims under that ball. My TS clutch replacement was good with 2 X 2mm shims at 220,000 km, after some trial and error. The paper work that came with my clutch kit said use just the one. The fact this is mentioned in the kit, shows its a common problem with the second gen push clutch. How many did you use?
Ideally, the lever and ball should be replaced with new ones to regain the original geometry, but I was quoted $350 or so for the lever by the dealer. It was suggested to me that the socket in the lever should be welded up and remachined, but I didn't go that way.
It's a bad design really, as the original clutch wears out the wear on the ball and socket compensate - cancel each other out - and you don't hit trouble until you put a new clutch plate in. Rear wheel drive - pull the drive shaft and gearbox off, replace clutch and pressure plate, bolt gearbox on. Guaranteed to work first time. lol
I hope you don't need to redo the clutch install. Hopefully its just the clutch free play adjustment.
Sarah_au
31-08-2011, 07:04 PM
Two things to check first:
(2) Lever adjustment at the gearbox - where the release lever comes out of the gearbox, the lever itself sits in a window. It should be sitting in the middle of the window when the clutch is up. You need to pull the rubber boot off, and unbolt the slave cylinder from the side of the gearbox. There should be some easy movement of this lever, by hand, when you press it in the normal release direction. Shims are the only way to get this right.
This examination will tell you if you have too many/not enough/right number of shims under that ball. My TS clutch replacement was good with 2 X 2mm shims at 220,000 km, after some trial and error. The paper work that came with my clutch kit said use just the one. The fact this is mentioned in the kit, shows its a common problem with the second gen push clutch. How many did you use?
I think I used 4 maybe more. I misread your instructions in the faq. I thought you said the lever needed to be in the middle of the window before you put it all back together and now I read you as saying it is after it is all back together that it should be in the middle.
That is why I am sure it is the problem.
Hey maybe I can slide a file up the inspection cover and just file off the extra ones til it works lol.
I hope you don't need to redo the clutch install. Hopefully its just the clutch free play adjustment.
Nope I already checked the freeplay before I made the post.
MadMax
31-08-2011, 07:11 PM
I think I used 4 maybe more.
Hey maybe I can slide a file up the inspection cover and just file off the extra ones til it works lol.
With the box off the car, the lever will just flop about, surely? Anyhow . . . . Box out again then.
File idea is brilliant, but its all hidden behind the other bits.
If its any consolation, I had to redo the whole remove/replace the gearbox bit too.
Lots of "WTF is going on with that mofo clutch?" mutterings and head scratching over a 3 month period until I worked it out.
Sarah_au
01-09-2011, 09:46 AM
Well now everyone can see just how my luck runs. After having resigned myself to redo the clutch and replace the head gasket I just went across the road to make sure the engine hoist was going to be available for the weekend. The guy charges me $45 to pick it up friday arvo and drop it off Monday am. It is literally across the road so I can just push it to my place.
Oh fate really doesnt want me to drive. The hire place has closed down. The nearest branch is about 10 miles away and of course they now charge much more but that doesnt matter as I dont have transport to pick up the hoist.
Anyone know anyone in Sydney that hires a hoist out cheaply and can even deliver?
Sarah_au
05-09-2011, 02:41 PM
Ok I bought a chain block, not the best of options as far as I am concerned but it worked and I have the tranny hanging. The rubber boot that covers the release arm had somehow gone up inside the bell housing and was shredded. A couple of bits were on the release cylinder and were possibly preventing the cylinder from sliding all the back.
The cylinder seems to stick a little bit so I am going to use a bit more grease on the shaft. Is there such a thing as too much?
Just in case I removed 2 of the 3 washers I used to shimmy up the bearing. I think I have everything done now but I am reluctant to put it all back together again in case it doesnt work properly and I have a nervous breakdown.
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