hi all,
because im a tight a.. im planning on machining my flywheel my self. i will cut the end off my old crank and set her up in a lathe square so i know its a good job. if i set the original machined edge square i cant see too much trouble arising?

what i want to know is what's the maximum material i can get away with skimming off? and will i need to pack the disengagement fork knuckle out with shims?

ide appreciate any input / experiences

thanks
regards jay

Sorry, but to save a mere $30 or so you will go to all the trouble to cut up an old crank, hope like hell that it is square in the lathe, then on top of that spend the time and the power to run the lathe only to realise you can not get the proper finish for your new clutch to properly bed to. All the best with that

The flywheel is machined with a mill type machine for a very good reason

The pivot will need spacing if the top of the ball is not sitting within spec so to answer that question yes you may need to space it if not done before

ok thanks for that. i was quoted $70 and $90 to have it done but will look around some more if yo think i could get it done cheaper. but if its a matter of near on a hundred it will have to go without i suppose.

as far as a lathe ive done a few tractor clutches for people but i suppose with the differences in use you cant compare them.

thanks,
regards jay

Getting it square is easy, use a dial gauge. surface finish is all about speeds and feeds, plus using the right insert cutter. and the fun of doing it yourself = bonus

When a flywheel is machined it is not done in a circular motion, the mill will leave an angled pattern on the wheel which is important in getting the new clutch to bed in

ahh i see on a vertical mill, hmmm i run vertical CNC mills at work, good to know!

A lathe will leave lines more or less concentric around the centre, the clich would tend to slide along those and follow the grooves. If the face is milled, the lines would go across the face, and the clutch would be more abrasive on them. I tried to draw it in paint, but im too lazy and I can't get the circles to work the way I want.

Repco machine them cheap.

i see what your saying about the lines. but with the tools and machines they have its pretty easy to get a perfectly smooth surface but as madmagna and TiMi said that may not be desirable.

i agree tho robssei, i love doing as much as possible my self. only from the point of view its experience and really thats why i got the car and did the conversion in the first place. and why i can tell every crapadoor fan to go stand on egg shells when he tells me i drive a heap of crap lol.

anyway ill get a few more prices. if not what is the machine they use. i could use a surface grinder ect if i really cant afford it. otherwise ill hold out for a while and get some more cash.

ow and thanks for the repco suggestion. ill give them a call tomorrow

thanks,
regards jay

Good Luck. I love to hear how you go.

wont be for a few weeks while i get my parts and wits together. may as well teach mum how to drive a manual before i do the clutch.....poor dam car.....

anyway where is the best place to get bits. im thinking ebay for a pbr kit plus master and slave cylinder to be safe. i know my master is not too good as the fluid level does not drop at all when depressing the pedal. indicating a bypass of fluid if i recall correctly?

also be careful to make sure it stays balanced

Looking on the Exedy website a ground finish is preferable. However I done my Niva flywheel on the lathe at work and it works fine.
http://www.exedy.com.au/user_uploaded_files/pdfs/tech-notes/Tech%20Note%20015.pdf

wont be for a few weeks while i get my parts and wits together. may as well teach mum how to drive a manual before i do the clutch.....poor dam car.....

anyway where is the best place to get bits. im thinking ebay for a pbr kit plus master and slave cylinder to be safe. i know my master is not too good as the fluid level does not drop at all when depressing the pedal. indicating a bypass of fluid if i recall correctly?

Not correct, you will only get a drop when there is a leak

Your master will have a supply within the bore and will be using this, is only when that fluid is not returned you will get a drop in level

Depending on how much you are spending, I also do Exedy kits for your car here