Hi all, the motor in my Verada sounds rough when under load, sounds great at idle, does sound worse when cold, I drove a mates TF 3 litre today and it sounded much smoother, doing 3,000 revs in second in mine it sounds like its reving too high but doing the same in my mates TF it was smooth as. My car sounds great at idle and when you give it a rev in netural, but in gear and under load it makes a chugging kind of sound, I have been trying to work this out for sense I bough the car 5 months ago, and its starting to piss me off. its a had a new timing belt and hydrolic tensioner, all pullys spin free and no noises from them, the car has done 215,000 k's. anyone have any idea what it might be, cheers

Hi all, the motor in my Verada sounds rough when under load, sounds great at idle, does sound worse when cold, I drove a mates TF 3 litre today and it sounded much smoother, doing 3,000 revs in second in mine it sounds like its reving too high but doing the same in my mates TF it was smooth as. My car sounds great at idle and when you give it a rev in netural, but in gear and under load it makes a chugging kind of sound, I have been trying to work this out for sense I bough the car 5 months ago, and its starting to piss me off. its a had a new timing belt and hydrolic tensioner, all pullys spin free and no noises from them, the car has done 215,000 k's. anyone have any idea what it might be, cheers

Is it showing any signs of running rich? With that milage, the oxygen sensor is fairly likely to be suspect unless it has already been replaced.

Ignition coil is something else worth checking out.

If you have a multimeter it is relatively easy to check the O2 sensor to see if has failed completely.
It it has gone "lazy" it will be difficult to detect unless you can get to an engine analyser or an oscilloscope.

This is most likely at 215,000 Kms as they have a design life of 100,000 to 160,000 Kms.
Download the Gen III manual and look at the O2 sensor checking section.

Mal of Mitsfix stocks the genuine Mitsi part and the OEM supplier as well, they just don't come in a Mitsubishi marked box.
I used a Bosch universal sensor. Here you have to keep the tail of the existing wiring and use the Bosch joiner kit..
Biggest problem will be to remove the old sensor from the front pipe. You will need a BIG spanner and loads of welly to get it to come undone.

Best description of how the car feels with a failed sensor is "Doughy".
Idle has more power, i.e. put in Drive and the car wants to pull away.
Higher fuel consumption.
Cold idle is lumpy.
Flat spots when warming up. I have a fairly steep hill about 500 m from home. When the engine is cold, turn into the road and the hill starts immediatley, push accelerator, nothing happens, 5 seconds later suddenly power comes in with a rush.

Changed the sensor a couple of weeks ago. Different car. Smooth idle, all flat spots gone. Fuel consumption has improved almost 2/100 based on the computer, can go another day before a refill.

Gerry

Hi guys thanks for your replys, my car is running ok just sounds rough not running rough, its hard to describe, I can't understand it because in netural and the motor sounds great, but in gear like taking off up a hill its noisey and makes a kind of chugging sound, I will try and do a video and uplaod it so someone may have an idea what it maybe, maybe the mtor is just worn. Thanks again for the great replys, cheers

Dean

If you have a multimeter it is relatively easy to check the O2 sensor to see if has failed completely.
It it has gone "lazy" it will be difficult to detect unless you can get to an engine analyser or an oscilloscope.

This is most likely at 215,000 Kms as they have a design life of 100,000 to 160,000 Kms.
Download the Gen III manual and look at the O2 sensor checking section.

Mal of Mitsfix stocks the genuine Mitsi part and the OEM supplier as well, they just don't come in a Mitsubishi marked box.
I used a Bosch universal sensor. Here you have to keep the tail of the existing wiring and use the Bosch joiner kit..
Biggest problem will be to remove the old sensor from the front pipe. You will need a BIG spanner and loads of welly to get it to come undone.

Best description of how the car feels with a failed sensor is "Doughy".
Idle has more power, i.e. put in Drive and the car wants to pull away.
Higher fuel consumption.
Cold idle is lumpy.
Flat spots when warming up. I have a fairly steep hill about 500 m from home. When the engine is cold, turn into the road and the hill starts immediatley, push accelerator, nothing happens, 5 seconds later suddenly power comes in with a rush.

Changed the sensor a couple of weeks ago. Different car. Smooth idle, all flat spots gone. Fuel consumption has improved almost 2/100 based on the computer, can go another day before a refill.

Gerry

You have just replicated the exact symptoms with my wifes KF....looks like its O2 Sensor shopping time.
I don't normally drive her car, but I noticed the same symptoms you described the other day. Hers is on 240K.

Hi guys thanks for your replys, my car is running ok just sounds rough not running rough, its hard to describe, I can't understand it because in netural and the motor sounds great, but in gear like taking off up a hill its noisey and makes a kind of chugging sound, I will try and do a video and uplaod it so someone may have an idea what it maybe, maybe the mtor is just worn. Thanks again for the great replys, cheers

Dean

My TL is pretty similar - sewing machine quiet at idle but the engine sounds pretty agricultural when accelerating....I also have the rattly noise from the accessory drive belts between 1200 - 1500 rpm. I put this down to the very poor soundproofing on the bulkhead/firewall which is not only very thin but also does not fully cover the bulkhead. Soundproofing under the carpets is also very thin. Door seals are only single rubber unlike most other cars and clearly done on the cheap. I've got 130K's up, motor uses no oil and has heaps of power so I know it is just a noisy car.

GTVi,
Glad to help.
Really most of our cars will now be in the distance travelled range when this sort of problem occurs.
The O2 sensor, I believe, should be treated as a service item like the rear bank platinum spark plugs.
Remind me to have a look at the service book to see if there is a reminder at high distances to check the sensor.

Maybe an idea to buy from Rockauto in the states, however make sure that the sensor is the same as the USA cars have 2 sensors.

I took an hour to change over.
This included lifting the car onto stands.
Removing the carpet, centre console reinforcement, undoing the plug.
Getting underneath and undoing the sensor. I had fitted a new exhaust system about 6 months ago so the sensor was not effectively welded into the pipe.
Cutting the old sensor wiring, fitting the old plug onto the new sensor wires with the Bosch universal kit.
Putting it all back together.
Gerry
Gerry

@spud100, do you have the product code?

I'm sure my car hasn't always sounded like this or if it did it would have left the dealers and I'm sure if all 3rd gens sounded like mine they wouldn't have sold many, as I said in my first post my mates TF Advance sounds a lot quieter and better then my KH Verada.


My TL is pretty similar - sewing machine quiet at idle but the engine sounds pretty agricultural when accelerating....I also have the rattly noise from the accessory drive belts between 1200 - 1500 rpm. I put this down to the very poor soundproofing on the bulkhead/firewall which is not only very thin but also does not fully cover the bulkhead. Soundproofing under the carpets is also very thin. Door seals are only single rubber unlike most other cars and clearly done on the cheap. I've got 130K's up, motor uses no oil and has heaps of power so I know it is just a noisy car.

@spud100, do you have the product code?

Bill,

I bought two new O2 sensors from this site a few days ago, check out the "SA dyno day thread":
NEWSTANDARD SMP 4 WIRE UNIVERSAL OXYGEN SENSOR SG1273 (380358368409) (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m516.l1123/7?euid=4105d0f68a7b4192a7287bc452419613&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com.au%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI. dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D380358368409%26ssPageName% 3DADME%3AL%3AOC%3AAU%3A1123)
Way cheaper than either the Mitsu OEM sensors or the Bosch universal ones (and I've use both in the past).
And easier to wire up and connect than the Bosch joiner system, which in my opinion is overly complicated.
No probs at all with my new O2 sensor yet (only fitted one of them so far), and city fuel economy seems to have improved.

KJ.

Bill,

I bought two new O2 sensors from this site a few days ago, check out the "SA dyno day thread":
NEWSTANDARD SMP 4 WIRE UNIVERSAL OXYGEN SENSOR SG1273 (380358368409) (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m516.l1123/7?euid=4105d0f68a7b4192a7287bc452419613&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com.au%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI. dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D380358368409%26ssPageName% 3DADME%3AL%3AOC%3AAU%3A1123)
Way cheaper than either the Mitsu OEM sensors or the Bosch universal ones (and I've use both in the past).
And easier to wire up and connect than the Bosch joiner system, which in my opinion is overly complicated.
No probs at all with my new O2 sensor yet (only fitted one of them so far), and city fuel economy seems to have improved.

KJ.

Woah, those O2 sensors are CHEAP. Will these fit any third gen Magna/Verada? How much work is needed to adapt these things to our cars?