got some brakes cheap the other day, all was going good, got one side done then went to do the other side, the problem is that little fitting (on the car side of the brake line) that joins to the caliper hose, found a spanner that was a bloody tight fit and it kinda turned without that screwing turning, iv tried vice grips the lot and still wont budge?

i think ill take the car the ABS on tuesday and get them to sort it out, does anyone no if ABS do new lines at all and roughly how much?

cheers

Same thing happened to me, and it's happened to a few other members too.

I ended up getting my mechanic to have a look at it but it wouldn't budge. In the end he bought new lines back to the master cylinder from Mitsubishi. Apparently they aren't that expensive.

Same thing happened to me, and it's happened to a few other members too.

I ended up getting my mechanic to have a look at it but it wouldn't budge. In the end he bought new lines back to the master cylinder from Mitsubishi. Apparently they aren't that expensive.

hmmm, do you think it would be cheaper if i buy the lines from mitsi and get ABS to do it?

Funny I have never had this issue ever when using a proper good quality brake line spanner

I would not use cheap tools as brakes are a one chance thing only, mess up and you can die

+1 for quality tools. Had a nightmare using normal spanners doing a diff swap and having to take the brake lines off on a datto a few months ago.

i bought brake like tools and they still rounded the nuts. they seamed very brittle. It was a kingchrome and was very chucky so there was flex in the open slot part but it still fudged it. Tings you can try and not applying large torque to it to get them undone. They putting the spanner on there and giving it a quick blow with a hammer to break the seal so to speak. Its this initial cracking thats the real issue.

i bought brake like tools and they still rounded the nuts. they seamed very brittle. It was a kingchrome and was very chucky so there was flex in the open slot part but it still fudged it. Tings you can try and not applying large torque to it to get them undone. They putting the spanner on there and giving it a quick blow with a hammer to break the seal so to speak. Its this initial cracking thats the real issue.

it cracked then wouldnt go anymore, so went to tighten it the distance it cracked then tried again, and didnt move, was done with a brake line spanner, drivers side was piss easy but the passenger side is giving troubles

What you should have done ,is once you cracked one side ,left it at that ,then tried the other side,had that cracked open ,then you could have proceeded with no probs,now ,its well...

I believe the word you are looking for is ****ED lol

going to u-pull-it tomorrow for a new brake line:)

Dont bother with u pull..

Genuine new line will cost you bugger all..

SuFz

Dont bother with u pull..

Genuine new line will cost you bugger all..

SuFz



To late, chopped the old line out, (was corroded as well when I had an old battery leak) and newer one lineded straight up, the used line only has 120,000 odd on it appossed to 170,000km

But all is good now, love the improvement on braking, fills like the car is digging the nose into the ground

You did not use the line that came with the calipers? They've only done 90000kms.

You did not use the line that came with the calipers? They've only done 90000kms.

He stuffed up the hard line on the chassis,your flexible lines would have been fine,look at his members ride thread

To late, chopped the old line out, (was corroded as well when I had an old battery leak) and newer one lineded straight up, the used line only has 120,000 odd on it appossed to 170,000km

But all is good now, love the improvement on braking, fills like the car is digging the nose into the ground

With our wagons, it probably is literally digging its nose into the ground haha :)