Hi all, was just wondering what the cost might be to replace the valve stem oil seals on a KR V6 Verada?
CHEERS

is it blowingsmoke using oil just asking as mine did and i got told to use penrite oil and would you believe no smoke or oil used
the problem doing these is a heads out job so if not a mechanic minded person will cost a bit
can get a engine from lancy sity for 300pp in qld with approx 160kms so also depend on the ks on it to

used to be about $300 for a V6 from mitsi leave the heads on

to diy
you need a compressor and the special
air attachement and a special spring compression tool off ebay

I did a heads off, new exhaust valves, new exhaust valve guides, new valve stem seals, new hydraulic lifters on a 3.0L second gen last year - only pulled it apart as a couple of exhaust manifold studs had been snapped off by a previous owner and one exhaust valve was leaking, and as the bores showed no wear ridge it was worth doing the heads properly. $1,200 worth of machine shop work and parts, plus a gasket set from rockauto.com it was all back running nicely.

I did mine about 8 months ago with the ebay valve compressor mentioned by magna buff. It cost about $45 for everything and took a couple of hours (took my time). Very simple job.
Mike

Anyone got a link to these ebay tools and a bit more info on how to do it?

Hi Mike, thanks so much for your reply, can you let me know where I can get info on how to do the job? cheers Dean



I did mine about 8 months ago with the ebay valve compressor mentioned by magna buff. It cost about $45 for everything and took a couple of hours (took my time). Very simple job.
Mike

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VALVE-SPRING-COMPRESSOR-AIRHOLDS-OVERHEAD-VALVE-/360195578730?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53dd545b6a
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/springtool.jpg
take off the rocker gear
you get the the cyl on compression stroke
both valves shut
compressed air into the cyl through the plug adaptor
use the hand held tool to compress the spring
so you get the keepers off
replace the seal
refit the spring and keeper

Sorry for sounding dumb but does the timing belt and cam shafts need to be removed to do the job? cheers



http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VALVE-SPRING-COMPRESSOR-AIRHOLDS-OVERHEAD-VALVE-/360195578730?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53dd545b6a
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/springtool.jpg
take off the rocker gear
you get the the cyl on compression stroke
both valves shut
compressed air into the cyl through the plug adaptor
use the hand held tool to compress the spring
so you get the keepers off
replace the seal
refit the spring and keeper

sure not a stupid question at all
do this before removing the rockers

with white marker pen nail polish or other
mark the belt at the timing marks to TDC and each cam point
if something goes wrong its an easy fix

Hi Mike, can you tell me where I can get the step by step info on how to do the job properly as I don't want to stuff anything up, cheers Dean




I did mine about 8 months ago with the ebay valve compressor mentioned by magna buff. It cost about $45 for everything and took a couple of hours (took my time). Very simple job.
Mike

Yeah, I'd be after it too with plenty of detail.

used to be about $300 for a V6 from mitsi leave the heads on

to diy
you need a compressor and the special
air attachement and a special spring compression tool off ebay

Where did you have this rough price from? Might be easier to get it done by a mechanic, I can't afford the down time of no car if it's stuffed up.

Might be best to take it to a mechanic Sid as I bought one of thoes valve spring compressers and it didn't work very good, I gave up and put the engine back together.



Where did you have this rough price from? Might be easier to get it done by a mechanic, I can't afford the down time of no car if it's stuffed up.

got the figure from an old post where
that member went to mitsubishi service division

ring around different mechanics with lower cost for an hours /work rate

Hi Folks
Could I get some advice on replacing the valve stem oil seals on my 91 TR 4G54 from the experts out there.

Yes...I've looked at all the posts I could find but I'm missing some basic info.

I'm hoping to do this work with the head in place & using the compressed air technique as described in various posts.

Question is.....should I remove the camshaft drive sprocket & rest it on the keeper, then remove the rocker assembly ? If I did that I think I'd then have to put the camshaft left & right bearing caps back & refit the drive sprocket so the motor can be rotated to get the pistons on TDC & carry out the work on the valves etc.

I don't have any spare bearing caps so I guess I'd have to separate them from the rocker assembly somehow.

Does this sound like the right approach or is there some better/simpler tried & tested method ? :confused:

not a good idea to touch the cams or cogs unless replacing seals

a guess

with the rocker gear off all the springs on the valves
should end up all being closed
so no need to rotate the motor at all

not a good idea to touch the cams or cogs unless replacing seals

a guess

with the rocker gear off all the springs on the valves
should end up all being closed
so no need to rotate the motor at all

So pistons don't need to be TDC when pressurising the cylinder. ?? Could have two at TDC & the other two at BDC.

Was a bit concerned what might happen if the rocker gear & bearing caps were removed with the spring tensioned cam chain still pulling on the camshaft :eek2:

What do you think ?

madjack the original post was for the V6 motor

if yours is a 4 cyl the timing chain stays put at TDC
the cam will just sit there as long as the motor
isnt turned with the rocker gear off

on the 4 cyl the waterpump belt and pully stays connected

with both V6 and 4 cyl the rocker gear clear you can get to all valves

madjack the original post was for the V6 motor

if yours is a 4 cyl the timing chain stays put at TDC
the cam will just sit there as long as the motor
isnt turned with the rocker gear off

on the 4 cyl the waterpump belt and pully stays connected

with both V6 and 4 cyl the rocker gear clear you can get to all valves

Mine is a 4 cyl, so that's clear now.
Thanks for the info.:happy:

Hi Mike, thanks so much for your reply, can you let me know where I can get info on how to do the job? cheers Dean

Sorry Dean, haven't logged in for a while. All your questions have been answered by others though :-)
I found all the info for the job on this forum, but would like to add that it was a bit easier than expected. Supposed to stuff a rag into the spark plug hole to take up the space (to stop the valve dropping in) but this wasn't really needed: If the valve dropped, it was easy enough to get it back up just with my fingers. Learning this saved a bit of time (really time-consuming trying to get the damn fabric through the hole).
Now I'll read the rest of the thread, and learn how you went ;-)

EDIT: I see that Magna buff has provided instructions. Here are mine, so you can have two experiences to draw on. This is from memory, and mine isn't fantastic, but I do recall most of it was pretty painless. Oh, and if you need to replace the timing belt, this would be an excellent time to do it.
Another hint: Digital cameras and mobile phone cameras are a fantastic tool for the weak-memory. Particularly good for timing marks.
Let the engine cool, take all the spark plugs out and remove the valve covers. It's easiest to remove the inlet manifold to get at the rear bank (probably impossible to do this job if you don't, actually), and put it out of the way.
Turn the engine manually (easiest to jack PS of car, put axle stand underneath and remove wheel) until #1 cylinder is at TDC. Although we're only interested in getting the piston to the top of it's cycle, the timing belt has to go on to exactly the same position. Note that at TDC there is a notch at the top of each of the camshaft drives. If you don't see these, #6 is in the firing position. Second check: When #1 is in firing position both valves will be shut and on #6 both will be open. If you have #6 in firing instead of #1, turn the crankshaft one complete turn and you should see everything line up.
Remove all of the valve gear, starting at the bolts furthest from the centre. Be really careful here: The hydraulic lifters will try and fall out as you remove it.
Loosen the timing belt tensioner, pull the timing belt tight (to move the tensioner out) and re-tighten - this bolt was very difficult to get to. It's 12mm and I had to use a special length socket.
Now on #1, use the special tool to compress the springs, carefully remove the collets (be really careful not to drop or lose them - I had a hell of a time finding one) and compressed spring and replace the seal: The old ones will be hard. When finished you can do #6 as well (1 and 6 pistons are always in the same positions). Replace springs and collets.
Firing order is 153624, I believe (you should check this, but it's normal for sixes and I would have noticed if it were different), so you now need to turn the engine slowly (exactly 120 degrees) until #5 is on TDC. Finding this is more difficult, as there isn't a 120 mark on the pulley. I poked a piece of electrical wire into #5 and had someone else turn the engine until it stopped rising. If you go too far, turn it back slowly but try and avoid having to do this. When it's at the top in position at #5, you will find #2 in the same position, so repeat the valve stem seal replacement on these four valves.
Turn a further 120 degrees and check for #3 coming up. #4 can be done at the same time.
When that's all done, replace the wheel, let the car down, put the valve gear back and tighten from the inside progressively in three stages. One of the bolts on mine sheared right off a couple of weeks ago (doing something else) without warning, so don't over tighten (use a torque wrench). Once you've replaced the inlet manifold (with new seal or plenty of gasket goo) and spark plugs, you should have a much less embarrassing car :-)
Again, from memory. Hope you have much success with this job Dean. It's a great feeling when it starts back up and the smoke is gone.

Hi Magna buff, or anyone else, can you tell me why the timing belt on the v6 has to be taken off? Why can't I just remove the rockers, all valves are closed, use compressed air to keep valves in places and refit new stem seals

You plan to remove the camshaft without removing the timing belt?

Let us all know how that goes!