I have a TR Magna SE, Mitsubishi 2600 "Astron" Engine with a couple of issues. Some I know, some I need to clarify.

For MMX attendees, you'll know the car, it ran a 20-second quarter mile at Tailem Bend Motorsport Park. Much to everyone's dismay, the bloody thing is still alive. lol I don't want to be the one to kill it either. As such i've been thinking about using it as a practice car - it's in no way worth the amount a mechanic would charge to repair it, but if I learn a few things and DIY it over time, it could be beneficial to myself and would also fix an otherwise usable car relatively cheaply.

Basic specs for it, 2.6L Automatic, SE trim level, 261000 kilometres on the odometer. Bit noisy, was extremely reliable. Probably still will be after these issues are attended to. It got me and the family out of a jam anyway, so I feel like I owe it to the ol' warhorse to make sure it lives to see another day... plus eventually i'll need a car for myself so it's a win/win if I can pull it off.



Question 1 - Cooling System.

Last time I drove the car it began to overheat on its way into the city. I immediately switched on the heater and fans to full with the windows down, a move that probably saved the engine. Doesn't seem to have any compression issues (other than the typical 20 year old Astron ring/seal loss). The radiator is relatively new, coolant was flushed not too long ago, thermostat is new. Can't see any leaks in the system. However over time the coolant level in the radiator will slowly drop, probably about 3-4 months between top-ups. There's about 1/4 amount in the overflow bottle when this happens.

I did notice the radiator cap didn't look too flash. I've since changed this over with a brand new cap, topped up the radiator and lo and behold, it hasn't overheated. It hasn't been on the road long enough to tell whether this is the fix or not though.

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/9591/img0273rt.th.jpg (http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/9591/img0273rt.jpg)

(Click to Enlarge)

The rubber appears very deformed, it's actually overhanging the metal ring below it, which i'm fairly sure is not normal. There was a thermoplastic piece on the top of the cap (where the gold ring is) but I pulled that off after the fact, so disregard the fact it's not there. Apart from that the cap in general looks a bit corroded.

Probably an obvious answer, but I like to cover all bases. Think based on the look of it this could have been the problem? I know it doesn't rule out other issues, but it's a good starting point.

EDIT: Have noticed that deformed rubber ring is very cracked as well. Looks like it could have been the culprit.


Question 2 - Cold Starts

Car doesn't seem to idle when cold, but I don't think it's related because it was doing it intermittently before the above overheating issue, more likely to be electrical. I've cleaned out the plug above the distributor, the idle speed control, the air flow meter and the throttle position sensor, which has helped a little. I'm thinking one of these may still be bad, looking at idle speed control at the moment, the revs don't bounce back consistently when load is applied. Would still like your opinion on what else to check.


Question 3 - Smoke.

This thing smokes like a train - if it had an Astron in it. :P However the smoke only occurs on startup after being left for a while and primarily when the accelerator is revved that first time. Afterwards it smokes a little, probably more than your average car should but not overly obvious. I'm leaning towards the cylinder head, primarily valve stem seals. Perhaps the rings are a little worn as well, but the amount of smoke produced in such a limited span of time, and only on a cold start, seem indicative of worn stem seals. I'd like the club's opinion on this too, and if there any suggestions as to what I should look at as well, i'd be keen to hear them.


Question 4 - Shudder.

I'm 90% sure this is a front engine mount that's sagging. With revs applied, the shudder disappears, in part due to the engine's reciprocating mass rotating backward toward the firewall and lifting the weight off the front engine mount. Once again, if there's anything else I should check to be certain, do let me know.



Cheers,

Michael

Noticed that once the oil burns off, the car has no problem idling. So I think some plug fouling may be involved. Cleaned up the distributor, rotor button and electrical connections anyway, which has made a world of improvement. It's idling quite high, 1100rpm on average, but i'll fix that up soon. ISC is definitely dead, but that's an easy fix. Probably have a spare one around here even.

The suspension is floating quite a bit (still need to suss out the condition of the struts). Shudder is definitely typical engine mount vibration. Cooling system is doing its job, sitting on half and staying there, but having owned a ton of overheating cars I am still a little paranoid about it.

Must say... for a 261,000km old Astron, i'm surprised at just how quiet it is. Bit of chain rattle on startup, but it vanishes quickly. Then even on a decent rev it still holds a smooth but whiney tone, typical of the 2.6L.

Two days ago this wouldn't even start. Can't really complain with progress. :P

ideas
have a compression test done ... just in case

valve stem seals get them done with the head still on

wont cost too much but should stop the smoke

if you are going to keep the car

have the timing chains and cogs job done when needed
replace the saggy engine mounts
have the injectors cleaned

Definitely needs a compression test, engine seems to smoke as it sees fit. It's primarily on startup, I thought it was puffing a small cloud just then but it could have just been steam, cold and wet night tonight. If it passes the compression test then the stem seals are the first priority.

Chains, Gears, Guides and Tensioners would by far be the single biggest job involved, if the engine isn't already too tired, otherwise it would probably just be worth sticking in another 2.6L. Could well be the scenario, the engine has taken a thrashing before and apparently didn't hold up too well. Or so i've been told by a number of AMC members. lol

Paintwork is shot to hell, the clear is coming off in fragments and I was able to pick up some of the burgundy paint on a rag before, so I don't expect it to last too much longer before it's back to the base metal, or close to it.

If I could teach myself to DIY a lot of this stuff, i'd be up for it.

if you can find another engine do a rebuild then change them over . depends on what tools you have access to .

Went around and did the old 4-corner bounce test... i've never seen a car move so much, began to wonder if it was ever going to stop. lol Struts are well worn too then.

plutonic had some sturts for sale . not sure if he still has as siad before depend what the car is worth to you ,i would guess 12to 15 hundred not counting piant. for the motor rebuild and fuilds and sturts.

Just finished building an Astron 2 from parts, even with -everything- either brand new or completely restored, she still has a healthy amount of vibration on idle, for the rest of the issues I'd be looking at slow oil seepage into the cylinders personally, given that this engine is notorious for blowing head gaskets and cracking heads, I'd say you have a weeping from an oil galley or maybe from the rings. The valve stem seals is a possibility as well, but the ones I pulled out of the engine I ripped out of the shell I dropped the rebuild in had 340k behind them and still looked serviceable. Mind you it had almost no head gasket material left and had a crack I could almost get a finger through.

Cooling - First thing is to pressure test it if you can. I can remember chasing a cooling problem for some time and it turned out to be the water pump, often on the TR/ TS they have a tel tail stain under the pump, they are easy to change - is the belt OK? Is the thermo fan working? You could hard wire the thermo fan as a cheap fix.

Cold starts - I was going to say plugs, but an injector clean would probably give you more power at the km's you have done, and may also fix the cold start, but it will probably cost $200 to get the injector guy around.

Smoke - From experience rebuilding your own motor is a better option. I would change the valve stems first with the head left on the vehicle - you need special little spring clamps - not too expensive.

Shudder - It would surprise me if this is the engine mounts, Auto? If the engine mounts are very worn they will affect the idle vibration.

Suspension - Sounds like the car is a 'Warhorse'. Drive Slower.

So I would change the radiator cap, hard wire the fans, add Wynn's stop smoke and save as much as I can to upgrade the car, as to fix it all would probably cost more money than it does to buy a car without the problems.

Already have a 3L TF, i'm just playing around with this one so upgrading the car isn't of concern.

Cooling looks to be good. Not having any issues with it as such now, if I spot anything unusual i'll note it but nothing out of the ordinary so far. Thermo fans work as they should. Belt is fine.

Cold starts... cleaned electrical connections and cleaned out the distributor. Seems to have solved it.

Smoke only occurs when left for a week or thereabouts and then has the engine started, it smokes like a train, then goes away very quickly. Reason I lean toward stem seals is because i've had to change a particularly bad set on a 91 TR at around this time before, and a 91 Verada V6 we had also needed them done (ended up ditching the car for unrelated numerous issues), both showed similar symptoms.

Shudder, probably the front engine mount. It does have an Automatic transmission. Had this problem with an older Astron, never discovered the source but it never ended up being an issue either.

Suspension... yeah. It's like riding the ocean waves. lol


I know it's not worth spending anything excessive on it, but it's given me something to do for a while so I don't mind doing some DIY if it cures boredom.