Hi guys,

I posted about a friends car hesitating:
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90912&highlight=

Turns out the o-rings on the valve cover gasket for the spark plugs was leaking and fouling the plugs.
I got the valve cover gasket to replace for him, and just wondering if there are any tips and tricks?

Primarily I wanted to know if I need to use any sealant on the intake manifold as I'll take it off for the rear bank.

no sealant should be used, it breaks off and gets everywhere, i think there is a brush on type sealant that isnt as bad. the plenum gasket should be renewed, this is a metal gasket, so wont require sealant, mitsu should sell for around $8 and the TB gasket should be renewed as well. just squeeze the edges of the rocker cover slightly so the gasket has a tight fit in the channel. and dont over tighten. the plenum should torqed to 18 foot pound i believe, and when tightening you should start from the center of the plenum and work your way to the outside, from each opposite bolt

Hi guys,
Turns out the o-rings on the valve cover gasket for the spark plugs was leaking and fouling the plugs.
.

Just out of interest, how were the plugs getting fouled by oil? - the sparkplug is gas tight and there is no way oil can leak past that seal.

Should I run some oil on the rocker cover gasket, like on a oil filter?

And how come the metal gaskets need swapping? I thought they were reusable?

Just out of interest, how were the plugs getting fouled by oil? - the sparkplug is gas tight and there is no way oil can leak past that seal.

When the spark plug lead was pulled out it was dripping oil so it seemed like the plug well was filling up with oil

well, the metal gaskets do heat up, get cold, get compressed, over time they just dont reseal, if its only been up to maybe a couple of months since that gasket has been changed, then maybe reuse it, but anything longer i would recommend changing it. if your going to do a job, might as well do it properly, and if $8 is going to save having to redo the job, then i know which way i would go

and no need to run oil on the gasket for it to seal, usuall i make sure the surfaces are as dry as i can get them

When the spark plug lead was pulled out it was dripping oil so it seemed like the plug well was filling up with oil

Sounds to me that the tube seals need replacing also, plus, if I were you, I would change both rocker gaskets and tube seals. If one's gone chances are the other isn't that far behind.

I asked the auto shop and they said the gasket kit comes with the o-rings (the tube seals I assume you mean?)

I called RPW and they said to use RTV sealant on both sides of the gasket...
What do people think?

I've never used sealant on the gaskets, not needed, as stated before, when the new gasket is on the rocker cover, pinch the sides slightly to lock the gasket in so it won't fall out. The gasket itself sits about 5mm out of the cover from memory and will compress down filling the recess when bolted on. The tube seals simply pull off from the tubes after the cover is removed.

So you've never experienced it leaking oil if sealant was not used?

So you've never experienced it leaking oil if sealant was not used?
i have done a few the tube seals only leak as they became hard over time as do rocker gaskets do to
you do not need any sealant at all
just as siad make sure rocker covers are not bent from being overtightened you will know as rocker gasket wont fit in right
as manifold it has a metal gasket can reuse with no problems

I just went through some Mitsubishi engine manuals and it seems for some reason only DOHC motors need sealant, does this this make sense?

EDIT:
Just thought I would ask as well, is there a negative aspect to using sealant, or is it just a "don't need it hence don't waste time" philosophy?

Nope, as long as the are torqued correctly and the gasket is oncorrectly, ie, not pinched, twisted etc then no it won't leak. The tolerances on these engines is good enough not to warrant it.
The only reasons that would cause it to leak are, warped heads, bolts are loose, worn out gaskets or incorrectly fitted.
If your friends cars gaskets have never been changed, you will notice on the covers no sealant is used when you remove them.
I changed mine 50k ago and still no leaks, as long as you follow the manual you can't go wrong.

I don't have a torque wrench. Does this job require a torque wrench?

You should really use a torque wrench on just about all fasteners on your car - they are pretty cheap - Aldi had one for $30 and SuperCheap have them for under $40....purists will say they are not as accurate as their $500 Snap-on's but they are just jealous. Rocker covers can distort if overtightened and leak if undertightened.

and dont listen to rpw...ever

First mistake was calling RPW

The metal manifold gaskets will last for a long time provided they are not bent when removed

The tube seals and the rocker cover gaskets are rubber

The rocker covers will need to be reshaped to make sure that the new gaskets are a snug fit

Reshaped how exactly?

Reshaped by tapping the edges of the gasket housing so its a tight fit. The gasket is housed in a bit of thin metal that can easily be bent. Tap the sides of this metal to make sure the gasket fits in tight.

And I agree with the above GET a torque wrench. These covers are made of thin tin and they crush REALLY easily - you don't even realise. I crushed the one of the bolt holes of the first rocker cover I changed using a ratchet & socket, and I had oil pouring out the back of it, heating up and causing a shitload of smoke. The second time around I didn't tighten the bolt hard enough and it was still loosing oil out the back (albiet not as much). Overall - Lost about $40 worth of full synth penrite oil and anouther 3 cans of degreaser to clean off the oil from the back of the engine so I'd have been better to spend that money towards getting a torque wrench.

Preferably torque wrenches are needed,but not necessary. if you have a screwdriver attachment for your socket set,use that. Feel and take note of the resistance and tension of the existing bolts in the rocker cover before you start to give you an idea.
dont bottom out the rocker cover on the head,there will be a slight gap between the two.