gday guys

ive been planning to make a new ported sub box for my currnent sub, and ive gotten prices about how much a pre-fab one it ($90-120)

but i went onto the jaycar site and found this little one for $50
http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=CS2527&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=1027#4

anyone had any experience in these boxes before? i thought it might be a good idea since to make one myself will be about if not more the same price

currently using this sub in the stock box
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Subwoofers/Subwoofers/KFC-W3012

thanks

I've always been under the impression that you don't have a lot of leerway when it comes to matching ported sub boxes with a sub: they really have to be designed specifically for your particular sub.

If you want a ported box, I would definitely DIY. Download WinISD and use your sub specs to come up with a you-beaut box.

is there any guides on how to use WinISD that are in english that i could understand? Ive found one but its just gotten me all confused


and to save making another thread, my woofer in my car for the splits in the front, is making a rattling sound as if its moving something and its rebounding. I cant work out whats wrong with it, is there a way to find the issue?

Jump on the Mobile Electronics Australia website, there'll be guides there on how to build your own sub box using WinISD.

there's no way it would cost that much to build a box you can get a sheet (3.6x1.2) of 18mm MDF for under $40 then screws glue and carpet add about $20-$40. where are you located? i can give you an address of a timber panel shop if you like?

He said it would be around $50 or a bit more to make his own box :P

Sheet of 18 from bunnings $26
Cabinet maker to cut it for you and a handful of screws $20
Liquid nails (better than PVA as you most likely will leave small gaps on assembly) $6
Assemble it - a Saturday
Carpet/vinyl $25-40
Contact adhesive $20
PVC for the port $5
This is assuming all required tools are already possessed.

So let's call it $100 to make.. Even on a workbench with all the right tools it would take me about 2-3 hours inc cutlisting to make one, not inc trimming it.. It's a hefty process, but if your willing to give it a crack it'll be a great learning experience :D

please don't recommend using liquid nails on subwoofer boxes, its horrible.

sheet of 18mm mdf at my local bunnings is only 16.00 a sheet, i can get 1inch mdg for 29.50 a sheet, dont know why the price differance but if your going to make a box 1inch makes a damn solid box :D

shouldnt need a cabinet maker to cut it for you, bunnings do free cutting when u purchse sheets with them so just take in what size you want your panels and grab a saleman

nothing wrong with liquid nails on a subox to seal the joins, ive done it on many boxes ( just remember to screw it all together properlly to ) liquid nails alone wont hold mass amounts of bass

If you want to go over the top, 1inch MDF isn't that good - you're better off using two 12mm sheets. MDF is weakest in the middle, so two 12mm sheets will be stronger than a single ~25mm sheet. Mind you, 16-18mm MDF should be plenty for most sensible street cars.

please don't recommend using liquid nails on subwoofer boxes, its horrible.

Er... What? Care to extend on this?..

If you want to go over the top, 1inch MDF isn't that good - you're better off using two 12mm sheets. MDF is weakest in the middle, so two 12mm sheets will be stronger than a single ~25mm sheet. Mind you, 16-18mm MDF should be plenty for most sensible street cars.

Australian pressed 25mm (not 1" you imperial ****s!) is pretty hefty stuff, there was a massive debate on CAA years ago, massive arguments, 1 bloke was claiming that 4 6mm sheets of mdf laminated would be way stronger than a single 25mm sheet.. After a hell of a lot of mdf spec sheets and and density test reports being thrown around I think they resolved that the laminated approach provided like a 15% strength increase or something like that.. Hardly worth the effort!

That said.. 16/18mm is fine in like 98% of installs :)

Haha, you learn something new every day! It was on CAA back in the day when I originally heard about using multiple thinner sheets. Glad to see it's now been de-bunked.

FWIW I used 16mm MDF in my car and it's bloody solid... like you say, fine for vast majority of applications...

That was all on paper though, no one actually pressure and strength tested the difference between the 2

Er... What? Care to extend on this?..

its just horrible!

Had it stuck to your fingers a few times have ya? :)
It's extremely strong, fills gaps with great ease, and has good flexibility meaning it won't fracture, even if you aren't good at applying a neat bead of it, the results are worth temporarily sticky fingers don't you think?

I've dug up the specs for the box that Kenwood specifies with the sub.

sealed is a normal seal, however a ported box is slot ported.

apart from being easier to make (given that port lengths can make a difference) is there any actual sound difference? (Google only makes mention of air noise and tuning.)

It will be louder, either in a small range of frequencies or linear across the whole bass range depending how the box is built.

Slot or round port, same same but different. Though round ports tend to be more prone to inducing a chuffing noise.

Also I should have mentioned earlier that bunnings cutting service is a waste of time for building something that really requires accuracy down to 0.5mm at the worst! Their tolerance is +/-20mm.

Had it stuck to your fingers a few times have ya? :)
It's extremely strong, fills gaps with great ease, and has good flexibility meaning it won't fracture, even if you aren't good at applying a neat bead of it, the results are worth temporarily sticky fingers don't you think?

And you can always put some gloves on while you use it if you're that worried about it lol

interesting to hear about the double sheets, i shall take that itnto consideration if ( lol when ) i decide i upgrade the magna's system next

But we deemed it to be wasted effort?

Though round ports tend to be more prone to inducing a chuffing noise.


I don't agree with that.

Ok, round ports are easier to induce noise if proper care is not taken to avoid it. I've seen many a round port chuff, but only a single slot port, and it was 1 I built unfortunately.

You seem to have a really negative attitude around here dude, while you have had valid points, it almost seems like your baiting for an argument. As someone who has been striving to help people on here as my main objective for years.. I really don't like it.

This is golden to watch, reason being. . AmmoJammo is a troll from MEA, Also known as Hi im james lol Quit feeding the troll, doesn't own or have an interest in anything to do with mitsubishi lol

It's not a reincarnated skinnyguy is it? If skinnyguy has found his way to amc might cry..

My recommendation is make the box the box yourself, the specs for the manufacturers slot ported box are easy enough to find. And 16mm MDF will be plenty strong for that sub, You could put a 19mm front on the box if you are worried about flex, but its not powerful enough to warrant it, especially if you run less than 500 RMS...

BTW, I have the same problem with AmmoJammo, his name suits tho, he's probably got the right ammunition, he just has a problem when he's firing.........

It's not a reincarnated skinnyguy is it? If skinnyguy has found his way to amc might cry..

Thats the one! lol

Oh FML. someone, please, god please! Ban the biggest smacktard ever to grace the Internet!

Love it <3

Ok, round ports are easier to induce noise if proper care is not taken to avoid it.

please explain how?

if you've got the same port area in a round port, vs a slot port, the slot port is much more likely to have noise as you'll have different velocities in different parts of the port, plus more surface area, meaning more friction.

But we deemed it to be wasted effort?

you never done something just to experiment for yourself and have something to do??

please explain how?

if you've got the same port area in a round port, vs a slot port, the slot port is much more likely to have noise as you'll have different velocities in different parts of the port, plus more surface area, meaning more friction.

Because your round port isn't flared.

Because your round port isn't flared.

who said that?

we aren't discussing flared VS non flared, we're discussing round VS slot ports.

different velocities in different parts of the port

different velocities would make different pitch sounds, spreading them out over a wider range
so if your round ports have a uniform velocity, all the sound spikes at the one frequency, making that frequency louder, and more audible to the naked ear.

different velocities would make different pitch sounds, spreading them out over a wider range
so if your round ports have a uniform velocity, all the sound spikes at the one frequency, making that frequency louder, and more audible to the naked ear.

is that an attempt at humour?

nope why?

alrighty then

I'm not saying not to use slot ports, but to say that round ports are more susceptible to audible port velocity is just misleading.

I think poorly designed and poorly finished ports are more susceptible to audible port noise.
Round or slot, if the port and box suit the driver, you shouldn't hear the port

Only thing that is going to induce port noise is going to be size and thats it, if the port is to small for the sub then you will get chuff, simple lol

just wondering since this is about a pre-fab box, finaly found a maker who will do me a dual subbie encloser wiv the v shaped in the middle, got a old chip board 1 as a guide old 10's alpine. but what is the what ya call it name 2 fit a pair of 12's area of space cubic ? (tech terms r frustrating 2 learn)

If I could understand what the hell you are asking, I would probably be able to answer you. English man, ENGLISH!

If I could understand what the hell you are asking, I would probably be able to answer you. English man, ENGLISH!


http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp339/aussiecraig1971/Picture004.jpg <<< this is the box i wan't made, in it are 10 inch, what size area do i need to make it fit 12's using mdf.

<<< this is the box i wan't made, in it are 10 inch, what size area do i need to make it fit 12's using mdf.

will depend on the subs you are going to put into it if you are going sealed or ported.
plus make a new box for it instead of trying to edit that box in the picture. (that;s how I understand what you want to do)

will depend on the subs you are going to put into it if you are going sealed or ported.
plus make a new box for it instead of trying to edit that box in the picture. (that;s how I understand what you want to do)

sorry for my confusion,the box has tubes. so i dont know the difference(old age), just did a lil google search measurement's & came up with 2 different measurement's, hopefully this is correct:

55r / .55r / 1.10f Cubic Feet Chamber Volume
15h x 17.25d x 30.5w / 15.5"H X 31.5"W X 16"D

If you want to make a band pass no its going to take a bit more than someone on a forum suggesting sizes to make it work.

ThanX done what i should've done in the first place, ask and take advice ProperlY. is now on right path.

to make my question easier: i have attached a pic for what i was trying to explain to instal 2 12' subs. if any 1 know's some 1 who know's how to make it & would be willing to pass on specification detail's.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp339/aussiecraig1971/Subwoofer.jpg

As I said, no one on here can just tell you the correct dimensions for a band pass box. There is much more to it.

You'll have to start with providing the TS specs for the subs you plan on using, or at least the exact subs your going to use and if someone's keen they'll do the research for you

depends on the woofers.

I was running my four 305c Pioneers in a 4th order bandpass. 70 litres sealed total, 210 litres tuned to 55Hz.

I did a little more searching and found a proper dimmension spec's which was made for sony x-plode, the box design is 4.56cubic feet(simple maths???). i am looking at the current sony sub's which are:

XSGTX120L
Rated Input Power: 300W
Frequency Response: 30Hz-1000Hz
Sensitivity: 86 ± 2dB/W/m

XSGTR120L
Peak Power: 1300W
Rated Input Power: 380W
Frequency Response: 30Hz-1000Hz

current new model's sub's, box dimension's are: 31-1/4" L x 16-1/4" W x 15-1/2" H, and the port's are 5in length-3in dia. price quote to have it made asked around 500plus as it's no longer available. would they be capable of sounding good, or for box size would i go for cheaper quality.

Dont wanna be a harrasment in asking, but it dose help in learning what i dont know all that much about sound gear tech.

what are you even trying to ask?

just a sub box that i wan't that is gonna give me heavy metal bass.

just a sub box that i wan't that is gonna give me heavy metal bass.

duznt matta, i'll just take the long way round.

I've built quite a few boxes before, mainly for bass/guitar/pa and studio monitors but a subwoofer is the simplest in terms of design. For maximum doof you can't beat http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/autotuba.html however I'm not sure about how much you want to spend on the driver, also the horn design cabinets are a pain to build.

duznt matta, i'll just take the long way round.

whats the long way round?

the box i wan't is out of production, sony dont make 'em any more. i'm asking would i be wasting me dollar's getting 1 made, is all i want to know. doing it myself.

why do you want a crappy prefab box?