Hi guys,

Is it possible to clean spark leads? The actual part that goes onto the spark plug got filled with oil etc from the o rings leaking.
Now just wondering if it's possible to clean rather than replace?
They are covered in oil quite a bit and I think only if I dipped them in degreaser etc would anything work

Cant promise a result, but you can get a CRC product called 'Lectra-Clean' in a blue spray can. It isn't exactly cheap though for the amount you get, $30 a can. The stuff works wonders for degreasing & removing oil of anything, but it's also an electrical component cleaner, with no flash point and no fire point. Also quick drying and doesn't leave any residue. If anything is going to work, I think thats a safe bet? Good luck :)

Thank you my friend but for $30 may as well just put a bit on top and get new leads with a guaranteed result

Thank you my friend but for $30 may as well just put a bit on top and get new leads with a guaranteed result

untill you find out the price of leads mate

How much do they go for?

depend want genuine or after market
ebay have here http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ignition-Leads-Mitsubishi-Magna-Verada-TE-TW-V6-NEW-/270808519568?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0d721390

Do those come in a pack of 3 or 6?

its a set so 6

I'd have a chat to your local superdodge auto store. They sell Bosch leads which I think, next to genuine, are the best you can get. The magna leads are not usually stocked and need to be ordered in but they are about $80 including delivery. Autobarn recommended Top Gun leads for $130 but I've never heard really heard many good reports about top gun leads. Opinions are scattered, whereas Bosch ones always tend to be very good. Supercheap auto must be able to get a good price on Bosch leads because the guy at Autobarn was telling me that they he can only get them in for $180.

ok, try electrical contact cleaner, it dosent cost $30, you dont need to get the best tin you can find, as long as it says electrical contact cleaner thats all you need, you can get them for as little as $12 a tin. go to dick smiths, jb-hi fi, hell i think even woolworths sels it sometimes. as for a reasult, never tried it before, cant imagine why it wont work though, after all i use contact cleaner in my dissy cap every service.

Thanks guys I will look into it ;)

Is it safe to dip the plug end into degreaser?
As it seems there is oil all in there, and quite a bit of it

Why not just replace it? SCA has Bosch leads for $80.

Removing the intake plenum, intake etc is a fair amount of work to get to the plugs and if your efforts are futile with using degreaser to clean the spark leads, you'll need to do it all again. I'm quite certain that Degreaser is a water based lubricant and I can't imagine any water near electrical leads is a good idea. Oil is not conductive whereas water is a electrolyte.

From the OP I'd suspect that it's the actual plug leads that were breaking down electrically and causing the original problem due to the plug lead insulation being softened after years of oil and heat, so I'd vote for new leads even though I hate spending $$$$.

Thanks for the advice guys.

Does the 6G72 need a special tool to get the spark plugs out?
And what mm is the spark plug?

There are T-shaped spark plug removing tools but these aren't really necessary. I used a ratchet and socket to remove my spark plugs.

Put a bit of tape on the inside the socket if you're having trouble getting the plug out. From memory I used a 16mm single hex socket with a 3/8 drive ratchet.

Tightening up the spark plug is a whole different story and challenge. I did use a ratchet but I'd recommend a torque wrench so you get the right amount of torque on the bolt. With a ratchet, because you don't know the actual force being applied you run the risk of overtightening and breaking the spark plug. It'll go through the engine and make some nasty noises - unlikely to do any damage though. It depends if the plug has a washer or not. If it doesn't its as easy as tighening until you hit the end of the thread. If it has a washer, then this is meant to be crushed to ensure a tight fit. The genuine plugs & the ngk ones I later replaced the engine with had washers so I pretty much turned until I felt resistance then I turned the ratchet about 1/8th of a full revolution - it doesn't need a heap of force - better to be a bit loose than to overtighten and break the plugs.

Thanks,
Yes I think with the washers the rule generally is tighten until there is resistance and then another 90-120 degrees or so

Good to hear no special tool is needed, as on a 6A12 MIVEC it needs a specific tool as the spark tube has flat bits in it (I have no idea why, just to make life hard)

Hey, the whole point of the tube seals is to prevent oil from getting into your leads. So if you have oil in your leads, they will swell up and cause misfiring and ultimately go back to the dizzy as well.

If you want to avoid any problems, I strongly advise replacing 6 leads and being done with it, honestly, or it will cost you more if it spreads to the dizzy.

Boosty

Boost King, yes the o rings from the plug tubes were leaking, I replaced them and cleaned out as best I could the leads, but it only worked fine for a short period
I guess I will replace the leads too

Do you need to do the rocker cover gaskets and spark plug seals to stop oil getting in there?

Yes isn't that the only place that oil can get through from?

Hey, the whole point of the tube seals is to prevent oil from getting into your leads. So if you have oil in your leads, they will swell up and cause misfiring and ultimately go back to the dizzy as well.

If you want to avoid any problems, I strongly advise replacing 6 leads and being done with it, honestly, or it will cost you more if it spreads to the dizzy.

Boosty

Can you explain how this will spread to the distributor?

Well if oil is inside the leads, it can continue to travel through the entire lead and to the other end which bolts to the Dizzy. So thats how Mitsubishi explained it to me and also mentioned crossfiring and other issues associated with it.

Feel free to call them on 1800 - MITSUBISHI

There are T-shaped spark plug removing tools but these aren't really necessary. I used a ratchet and socket to remove my spark plugs.

Put a bit of tape on the inside the socket if you're having trouble getting the plug out. From memory I used a 16mm single hex socket with a 3/8 drive ratchet.

Tightening up the spark plug is a whole different story and challenge. I did use a ratchet but I'd recommend a torque wrench so you get the right amount of torque on the bolt. With a ratchet, because you don't know the actual force being applied you run the risk of overtightening and breaking the spark plug. It'll go through the engine and make some nasty noises - unlikely to do any damage though. It depends if the plug has a washer or not. If it doesn't its as easy as tighening until you hit the end of the thread. If it has a washer, then this is meant to be crushed to ensure a tight fit. The genuine plugs & the ngk ones I later replaced the engine with had washers so I pretty much turned until I felt resistance then I turned the ratchet about 1/8th of a full revolution - it doesn't need a heap of force - better to be a bit loose than to overtighten and break the plugs.


To remove: I use the right size plug socket, with rubber insert. Plus extension bar. I check each plug for condition and alloy sticking to the tread. I would degrease the plug leads and measure their resistance.

To replace: I use a piece of rubber hose - like that found on the windscreen washer - attached to the end to start threading the plug. Lower the plug in gently, and turn the hose clockwise. Once it takes, I pull the hose off. Then use a torque wrench, extension bar, and plug socket WITHOUT the rubber insert to do the plugs up.

NOTE: All plugs come with washers. They are captive, why should they be missing? Only taper seat plugs don't have washers, but Mitsu doesn't use those. Use a torque wrench, rather than doing it up by feel. Can't get nasty surprises that way.

And stick with the correct heat range, pre gapped NGK's.

To be honest it seems unlikely for oil to travel up the leads to the distributor?
Either way it seems the leads will be replaced, and plugs will be checked/cleaned

Perhaps they meant the distributor seal can go too and leak oil in there as well as the rocker cover and plug seals?

The centre of the plug lead can act like a wick (it's porous) and oil will travel via capillary action albeit slowly. Once it reached the distributor it cannot go any further and cannot enter the distributor. I've seen plenty of oil soaked leads over the years and whilst they go soft and oily through this wicking, it never seems to extend more than a few inches. Once they go soft like plasticene, they lose their conductivity to some degree which will cause misfiring etc.