hi all.

im new to this forum and was wondering if i could get a hand with some of the problems in my car.
i picked up my ts magna 2.6 efi for $400 (i know cheap but for a magna i couldnt resist) now she had a few issues that i have fixed (overheating, fuse, battery ect.) but there is a couple i cant.

1. auto gearbox. slips when floored (change between 3-OD like it goes into neutral)
2. auto gearbox. upshifts and downshifts not smooth (could be oil and filter? hasnt been changed in a while)
3. i get a check engine light that i think is referring to my oxygen sensor but i dont know how to check (engine light turns on after about a minute doesnt turn off for about 15 minutes)
4. rattle when turned over (sounds like a heavy rattle goes away after about 4 seconds)
5.she isnt very quick (slightly sluggish could be related to the oxygen sensor?)

she has only done 202000kms

thanks guys

auto

the overdrive clutch needs a new kit ( automatic shop parts supply)
the auto needs a service oil and filter change
may need a second gearbox ecu module

engine
the timing cogs and chains need a new kit (off ebay)
can be done with the motor in

if ticking you may need new hydraulic tappets

check engine light needs the codes really
cant be anything too serious if the engine check
light goes off when to temp

Thanks magna buff

do you know how much time it would take to change the timing cogs and chains? (i have a mate that charges 60 and hour to do it) and do you know how much the overdrive clutch will cost?

also will that get rid of the light?

possible 3 hours to do the chains.... not bad @60 per hour

but get quotes
you have to undo al the engine mounts and tilt the motor
back and forth to do the chains

the end clutch kit is an easy fix as its done with the auto in the car
through the driverside wheel arch but again
get quotes from different auto shops

well at least the check engine light tells you when you need to do some work

oh ok thanks magna buff.

one more question for you. (i know its probebly not worth it) is there any componies that make turbo kits for this car? or can i get any old turbo say ct20 and stick it in?

no off the shelf turbo on the market
all pipeing has to be made
a copper head gasket
you need an oil cooled turbo for reliability
and a whole lot of cash

might make 8 -10 lbs boost if lucky
after that its custom rods and pistons

dammit hey magna buff whats the firing sequance for one of these? astron 2 motor. mate came over and pulled all the plugs out of my distributer cap and i have no idea where they are ment to go

1342

one is at the top of the dissy cap
3 is towards the gearbox
4 is the bottom
2 is passengerside
coil in the middle

thanks again

oh one more question. if i where to take a youtube video of my engine and sound could you listen to it and tell me if it sounds ok? not alot of magnas around here to compare to

youtube already has a few magnas with different noises
so no problem adding another

just need your youtube link to share

overdrive should be off when below 70 ks
power switch on

o/d on above 70 ks and economy switch on

oh ok well that sounds about right then cause i usually leave it on... ok i will do it tomorrow on my way to tafe and post it when i get home

youtube already has a few magnas with different noises
so no problem adding another

just need your youtube link to share

overdrive should be off when below 70 ks
power switch on

o/d on above 70 ks and economy switch on

That overdrve and power switch info is incorrect.

According to my TS glovebox manual, for normal everyday driving and to maximise fuel economy, overdrive should be left on and the power switch left off.

I can quote the exact part of the book tomorrow evening if you are interested in exactly what it says, but from memory when I looked at it last month it goes on about the pwr button causing upshifts to occur later (at higher rpm) and is designed for towing...
But Mits definitely recommend overdrive on and power off for normal driving.

I know the 4cyl 2nd gens are on the thirstier side, but I have wondered before if some people get such terribe economy because they cruise around the main streets with o/d off, (essentially stuck in 3rd and not giving the trans the chance to shift into 4th) combined with the pwr button on making the car rev higher before each gear change...

[QUOTE=karj;1446126]That overdrve and power switch info is incorrect.

According to my TS glovebox manual, for normal everyday driving and to maximise fuel economy, overdrive should be left on and the power switch left off.

ok i dont doubt it if its in the handbook

thats ok for the V6 box it can take it

I can bet you evertime IF you do that on tthe 4 cyl models
for long periods you will have to rebuild the end clutch
and it costs more than it saves in petrol usage

have had to rebuild quite a few 4 cyl kits

thanks magna buff i am more likely to agree with you. have seen some of your posts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyLlEkyiLBQ

here is my car while im driving

and im uploading one of just the engine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIXk9ajaosk

just near the end i could get the gearchanges
watching the rev counter
seems to drive ok

motor
I could hear some noisy tappets
The chain noise is just at startup
start saving when you get the money
do asap

(the sump has to come off as well when doing the timing chains )



auto
you wont damage the gearbox if you just use it as a three speed auto
and again save up to do the end clutch/overdrive

it actually sounds alot worse on those videos than it does in real life XD

the loudest noise is coming from the two balance shafts
they are on bushes and are worn badly

you can buy a balance shaft removal kit off ebay
and you need a oil pump from a TP engine
but the motor has to come out do that job

you will know more when you replace the chains
repco sell a timing cover gasket kit


or you can buy the cogs and gaskets and seal in the chain kit off ebay
so you will need a rocker cover gasket and
a sump gasket you can only buy the sump one genuine mitsubishi

was there a problem with the oil pump on the ts? just wanted to know cause you said that i needed one from a tp?

was there a problem with the oil pump on the ts? just wanted to know cause you said that i needed one from a tp?

TP oil pump is better for balance shaft removal.

Gearbox, EFI four cylinder got the same gearbox as the V6 version. The carby version 4 cylinder got a different gear box. It in the service manual. I had my gear box service once in it life (19yr) and after travel 7yr(how long since I own the car) with the O/D turn on haven't suffered any damage :) Maybe I got a good TR lol

I don't find my TR thirsty I get about 400kms to a tank :) That city driving.

cant use the TR oil pump if you remove the balance shafts

long story as to why it is done that way

TP oil pump just bolts on and has a single short chain running off the crank

only one cam timing chain to the rockers from the crank

oh ok. hey the overflow tank for the car.

the one that the top of the radiator goes to (the hose near the cap) goes into a bottle and then there is a hose that goes from that. but it doesnt go anywere do you know if it has to go somewhere?

there should be a small hole in the chassis
to poke that end of the pipe down
near the bottle it is the overflow hose
non pressure side of the T piece
all regulated by the radiator cap

righto.

just an update on the old girl

got her to run beautifully problem? spark plug leads not on properly reseated and then reset ecu for good measure massive increase in power.

hey magna buff can i put a gearbox from a tr magna in my car?

also my car only runs properly when heated up is that common?

like it runs properly but seems low on power

repair manual says the TS and TR 4Cyl are the same box

how will you know if the tr box is ok if you cant drive it ?

gearbox can be dropped out from the bottom and should bolt on as is
all the connections wiring wise would be the same
but check on that yourself

you will need the TR tranny module they are
3 pin connectors at the module

or if you really want to keep the car
pop out the motor and gearbox

do the whole job, then you wont need to do much for a year at least

I did the timing chains kit on a TS and the noise was still there
I then had to take the motor out to remove the balance shafts
( double work .....but sorted that car out )

low on power needs a compression test or plugs
think you motor has done 200,000ks + so its getting tired
motor running ok only when hot ..... just luck i think

true very true. righto i got a hold of the overdrive clutches for my car $10 each how many do i need? and how easy is it to install. i have a service manual but it isnt very clear. i was just going to get a mechanic to install. i also got a brand new tcu VERY cheap XD luck of the draw i guess.
thanks for your help

oh and btw it runs well all the time its just that (and i know it seems weird) but until the engine light pops up it doesnt seem to have all that much power mabye it has something to do with the CEL i dunno im getting the codes pulled soon

same as magna 4cyl

soak the friction disks in tranny fluid
for two hours before fitting

http://www.mirage-performance.com/sonata/Transmission/endclutch.html

DAMMIT attack of the spastic freind again. he decided to check the tps sensor and i dont think he has put it on right. if i put it on one way the butterfly valve opens a little bit and if i put it another it is dead closed is it sposed to be open a little? ( as in with the car off and nothing on the pedel if i put the tps sensor on one way there is a bit of a gap like the valve is forced open a little but if i put it the other way its completely closed)

its a little servo motor

not like a choke on a carby

it supposed to be set a .05 volts or 0hms or spmething like that

for now if you set the TPS so the adjustment screws are in the middle of the slots
it should start and run the engine

again my thanks magna buff. altho i have one more question for the moment. and that is where is the coolant temp sensor on the 4cyl astron 2?

there are two for an 2.6 auto both passenger side

one near the dissy on top of inlet manifold / thats engine/ has a wire on it

the other is underneath the inlet manifold /near the dissy
it is for the automatic temp

hey magna buff i have a theory about my sluggishness when cold. could it be my fuel filter? it probebly hasnt been changed in ages

if the fuel filter hasnt been changed in a long time change it

i was using ethanol on my efi and got a dirty fuel filter
so had to change it each year

using injector cleaner wont hurt it

if sluggish recheck the timing, plugs ,leads, dissy cap

managed to do the overdrive clutch today! got a donor gearbox so yeah i got it done and now she runs a dream

ok well done
dont toss the spare auto box
you might need it some time

the motor next

well what i will do is when i get paid i will put a new fuel filter in it and run a tank of injector cleaner through it
just as a bit of a price thing that i have done so far
new overdrive clutch (free donor transmission that i stripped for parts)
new gearbox oil ($34+$13 for spare)
new oil filter $17
new air filter $27
new oil (i have had 2 bottles $34 each)
new breather hose($4)
bottle of throttle body cleaner ($13)
nulon worn engine treatment ($12)
nulon stop noise ($12)
wynns stop tappets ($13)
nulon gearbox conditioner ($12)
new gearbox computer ($1)
car ($400)
2 new tyres ($180)

hey magna buff have you got a picture of the 4cyl 2nd gen engine? wanna see if there is anything i can see that is differant from mine
thanks

on page 15 is an engine bay picture

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/enginebayJPG.jpg

differences from a Ist gen motor to the 2nd gen
are dished pistons ,rocker rollers,timing chains,blue injectors

i think i better get a better service manual.

whats the best oil for my car? im running castrol gtx 20-50 atm.

thanks again for your help magna buff

downloadable manual http://www.lisho.net/?page_id=3

you need second gen and adobe to read it

castrol gtx 20-50 as good an oil as any other

right an update for you.

did the fuel filter today (it obviously hasnt been done in ages as the fuel line was stuck to the filter took me 2 and a half hours to get it off) and dumped a bottle of nulon fuel system cleaner in it.

took it for a drive just then massive differance in cold start performance. and another performance gain as the nulon stuff started going through the system.

once the cv joint has been installed next week that will be all i am doing for the moment.

just trying to keep a 2nd gen going!

hey magna buff. is it possible to put a 3rd gen 3.0L v6 into my 2nd gen? or do i have to get a 2nd gen v6?

the third gen has the engine/gearbox reversed in the engine bay
everything is different


for what you want to do you will need a 2nd gen half cut 3ltr or a 3.5 auto
to do the conversion it will have the computers power train and looms brakes etc

I believe the engine mounts side to side are different
on a v6 to a 4cyl but cant confirm

hey magna buff.

got a bit of a niggle. (mostly that niggle is mum "why does this car feel slow" "why is it shifting funny" yada yada yada)
anyway just realised last night (after i took it for a test drive with the new fuel filter in it) that my car shifts slower when cold.
could it be the gearbox filter? i havnt had a chance to change it yet altho i did change the fluid. perhaps its clogged and when the fluid gets thinner it passes through easier?

whats your opinion?

(im gonna have the last laugh tho she is using dextron fluid in her gearbox on her 380)

EDIT: it definatly shifts alot smoother when warm

you could take the pan off and undo the filter
to check that

just buy a new filter and a pan gasket
you count the number of bolts holding the pan on to get the right gasket

I find most 4 cyl second gen autos slower and sluggish when cold
even when tuned ..... just let it warm up a bit before taking off

I think the motor in your TS .... condition wise with its wear and noises
contribute to the sluggishnes


the use of dexron in a 380 auto is news to me

ha i should get my step mum to come on here shes done over 500000 in her 94 ts magna 4cyl she has only ever had the head recond not the block in any way XD

hey magna buff im gonna see if i can get a 2nd gen verada to use for interier parts. do you know the model? or are they just called ts verada. also would you recommend 3rd gen seats? thanks

and yeah she decided to do the trannie fluid herself so instead of using sp3 like i told her to she went and got dextron

Verada are KS or KR for second gen and K = verada

Thanks sparky!

dont think the third gen seats just bolt into a second gen

you would have to measure to find out
some seats are leather or fake leather

most veradas are v6 auto

a post did say there were only 150 manuals built

wow this place is epic

i have fixed the timing chain rattle so now it starts up nice and quietly all i have to do now is get the tappets done! XD if they are easy to do (like not taking the head off) i would do it myself but meh

cv joint going in this week

exaust going in when i get paid next

headlining getting sorted next time i see a magna geting wrecked

and she will be all good!

here are some pics of the old girl

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/205/img0003os.jpg/

the 2 that shes on the lawn are when i first got her then i misjudged the garage and did some damage to the front :(

motor to TDC

take off rocker cover
undo just the rocker gear 12mm bolts

soak new tappets in oil overnight

fit tappets and rocker bolts no tighter than 19 nm they strip easily

refit rocker cover done

wow... easy as. how do i put the motor to tdc? and how much approx is the tappets and do i get a kit? or do i have to buy them seperatly if so how much?

its gonna be awsome to finish off my good olf magna

i got quoted $8 each last i got some nice looking car
and i like the number plate,s

XD you mean the tape that holds the front together?

timing mark on the crank pully to TDC
mark the line on the pully with white out ,white nail polish or white paint
TDC is at the mark on the timing cover

the number one cylinder should be at compression stroke
take the plug out and use your finger to get the pressure
tappets approx $8 each you will need 8

thats it

i use a little grease to hold the lifters in place whilst replacing the rocker arms

damn well it looks like i wont be replacing the tappets this week the donor overdrive clutch that i got is busted. oh well thought that might happen

driving along yesterday and it was working then it slipped once. i thought oh shit and was nicer with the peddle the rest of the day.
today i went driving it was working fine then suddenly slipped and i couldn't get it to catch again just slips when going into overdrive.
so i gotta rebuild that now......
oh well will order the parts on Thursday and fix it when they come.

cv joints still going in tho

-_- ok i let it cool for about an hour and it now goes into overdrive again hmmm

http://www.mirage-performance.com/sonata/Transmission/endclutch.html

use the first overdrive unit that failed to practice on

undo the ring clip and inspect all the friction and drive plates

any chance of you getting pictures of the overdrive parts

otherwise use that link above... page 3 end clutch rebuild

if there is a lot of oil when you take off the cover the o/d seal has blown
new one is in the kit

right well. i have the cv joint siting in my lap unfortunately im not sure if its going to fit.... forgot to check when i ordered it. any easy was to tell if its going to fit? its a 25 spline.

yo magna buff

is there any easy way to check the timing?
if not im gonna have to go get it checked

the tr/ts 4 cyl has a knock sensor

it adjusts the timing through the ecu module if way out

the other way is a timing light to the drive pulley
with a white marker on the pulley knotch

connect to battery and number one plug lead it has a pick up

try 13 deg btdc

oh ok. i pulled the distributer cap today and cleaned the connecters but when i put the rotor back on i knocked it a bit i took it for a drive after and it sounded sorta like a supercharger was on it. to far forward? massive increase in power tho.

any ideas?

first make sure all the leads are sitting in the dissy cap
and the cap sits with the clips done up

recheck the coil wire....... start the motor


if you look at the adjuster nut on the dissy 12 mm spanner
when you lift it the dissy up motor will retard
if you push it down it will advance

with the motor running find the middle "sweet" spot
where the motor idles nice and even
retighten the adjust nut

if still no better how good are the plugs ?

Ok will do thx

if you look at the adjuster nut on the dissy 12 mm spanner
when you lift it the dissy up motor will retard
if you push it down it will advance

with the motor running find the middle "sweet" spot
where the motor idles nice and even
retighten the adjust nut



I would rather use the method in the manual, ie timing light, ignition advance connector shorted to earth, set to 5 degrees before top dead centre. lol

haha yeah i would but kinda low on cash.

OK two questions.

one would overdrive slip when hot because of the temp sensor? (the gearboxes have a temp sensor right?) as i think that the oil cooler for the gearbox would work on the engine temp right?
two i don't think my temp sensor is working cause it takes AGES for the fans to come on like seriously half hour wont make the fans come on. they only come on at about an hour of driving. which to me sounds a bit much. but after a 15 minute drive the engine feels ridiculously hot. more so then my grandads elantra or my mates falcon (he travels an hour to get down here and it doesnt feel as hot as my car)

main unit to control temp is the thermostat
it could be sticking

even the radiator cap might be old
if the hoses are old they soften and close up when hot
stopping the coolant to flow properly

then the temp setting sensor for the radiator fan
is on the bottom part of the radiator
there is a relay on the fan ceramic block that may be faulty

also a fan comes on with the air conditioner

there is auto temp sensor reading is inside the auto
goes to the TCU

the overdrive slipping is its own issue

ok thanks again magna buff i will be getting a advance on my pay to fix this thing once and for all

new temp sensors
new thermastat
new hoses
new rad cap
yeah one does come on with the aircon (actually the weird thing is that both come on i was under the impression that only the aircon one was meant to come on
timing chain and tentioners (if i can swing it)
tappets
both front cv's
rear tyres
alignment
new spark plug leads
new exhaust

hey magna buff. ive clocked up 260km since my last fill up. and im down to where the fuel light turns off and on. i think i could probebly get about another 100km out of it (not really willing to try)

doesnt really seem right does it?

i do thrash it around a little (as im testing it)
and i only do short trips

fuel usage close to right
being a 4 cyl auto

if you let the tank run out of petrol
it will burn out the electric fuel pump:io:

you dont want to add to your problems

I usually dont let a car with an electric pump get below 1/4 empty

well i narrowed down the loudest sound in my engine bay. its the altenator sounds like the bearings are going. ho hum i guess another costly repair

well i narrowed down the loudest sound in my engine bay. its the altenator sounds like the bearings are going. ho hum i guess another costly repair

@windwolf I got my replacement alternator off ebay for $199. Kept getting an intermittent charge light and weirdo change of engine speed etc..dimming/surging lights. All good now though :)

finally i got a couple of parts.
1. new distributer cap
2. new roter
3 new thermastat

now to you it might not sound like much but i have completely smoothed out the driving and my engine fans come on now!!!! epicness.

thanks again to all you kind people
just need the cv done now! thanks again

hey magna buff.

im getting a analog multimeter. apparently that what i need to check the codes for the check engine light is that right?

hey magna buff. ive clocked up 260km since my last fill up. and im down to where the fuel light turns off and on. i think i could probebly get about another 100km out of it (not really willing to try)

doesnt really seem right does it?

i do thrash it around a little (as im testing it)
and i only do short trips

Honestly, 260km and the fuel warning light coming on doesn't seem normal to me.

My TS Auto 4cyl EFI gets 360km-400km before the warning light comes on (and that's using 91RON, yet to test with 98).
The lower figure of 360km is what I tend to get if I've done predominantly short trips (even so, I seem to be getting 100 more km than you at the same point)

My TS is not driven hard and is completely stock (just ticked over 136,000km)

Flogging it is a pretty good way to use fuel and burn money, I would suggest driving it sedately for the next couple of fills so you can work out if you do actually have an economy problem.

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I drive with overdrive on and power off, which is what is recommended in the book to maximise economy. I know magna buff has a different feeling bout that.

I agree with the above post, I get around or slightly more than 200kms per half a tank. That ain't no granny driving as well :) It average out to be 7km/100km and around 15kms/100kms instant fuel consumption :) But that with power off and OD on :) I will redo my testing when I got extractor on the car :D

use the meter at the diagnostic pins
near the inside fuse box
havent got the codes myself

hey magna buff.

im gonna sell off my ts magna and buy a 97 or a 96 what am i looking for (known faults) thanks

well the third gen has a 4 cyl 2.4 with a timing belt
V6 have the motor reversed east west

best to buy would be a V6 manual

just have to have a quick read in the third gen forum here to see the problems

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=10

well i have decided to keep the old girl. got the overdrive clutches done. went for a drive and it seems to work well.

do i have to break the new friction disks in?

looks like i have another problem :( so the new overdrive works great until i get to temperature. my thoughts would be the overdrive solanoid

any ideas?

no break in period needed just drive it

I will have to read the repair manual again
see if i can find an answer for you

This slipping when hot shouldnt be happening at all

you can eliminate

on/ off switch cause it works so not electrical
and while it works the clutch mechanicals work also

will post again soon with facts

4-3 Shift Valve
Solenoid valve A opens allowing line pressure to This valve directs line pressure to the front clutch
exhau\t which results i n line pressure~flow and and to release the kickdown servo depending on the
associated pressure drop across restrictor 1 . Since the gear to be selected:
pressure behind the \hift plugs has diminished, the line Third gear: Line pressure from the shift control
pressure on the left uf the shift control valve pushes the valve acts on the left, positioning the valve to the
valve to (he right until the shift plug bottoms. Line right. Line pressure from the 1-2 shift valve is
pressure entering the shift control valve is now also directed to the front clutch.
cl~tcctcd to the clutch exhaust valve and the end Fourth gear: Line pressure from the shift control
clutch valve
;
- Fourth gear
1-2 Shift Valve
This valve directs line prcssure to apply the
kickdown cervo or low-reverse brake depending on the
occur to be selected:
valve acts on the right, assisting spring force,
pushing the valve back to the left. Front clutch
apply oil is, therefore, exhausted.
the torque converter has a locking solenoid

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/valve_body.jpg

it is the red one so check the wiring plug
coming out of the front of the box

with end clutch assembled

clearance at the snap ring should be 0.024-0.033 thou
with pressure down on the ring plate of 11 lbs

there is no fault code for this problem

do you know where this wire may be? the only one i can find at the front is this rather thick one that comes out the side next to where the torque converter is. thanks for your help again magna buff.

there are 4 wires in that bit you found

it should unplug from the auto box at entry

if not there ,seek out the next plug join
by following the wire back into the engine bay
possibly below the master cylinder

have you changed the auto oil filter ?

if no better you need to take it to an auto shop where
they can do a pressure test on the end clutch

needs a special high pressure reading guage

hmm no i havnt had a chance to change the oil filter yet. (parts still on its way) you really think it would make that much of a differance?

mostly cause i would have thought fluid would get thinner when hotter so would flow easier

try the new filter it only has a small space

oil wont go through at the right pressure
if the filter is clogged

you will see when you look at a new filter how it works

Hey magna buff. Do you know how to Change the shifter backlighting on the auto?

dont remember what it has

just try differnt coloured bulbs

Take centre console out, disconnect the wire for the lamp in ash tray, put centre console to one side and then reach around under the shifter mechanise on the driver side. It should twist out and be a T10 lamp :)

Thanks sparky

Hey guys does any one know what parts are interchangable from the 3rd gen magnas? im talking anything interior, exterior or the engine. i dont mind if i have to do a little modding but not anything rediculus.

Mirror switch, centre console lid, rims :D, steering wheels, spoilers, chromatic mirror you can mount on the window or mod it to the second gen mirror stalk, seats i think so (from memory front bolt in rear seat need a mod to fit in) that all i can think off top of my head.

looks like a trip to the wreckers is in order. thanks again sparky

Yo people.

Would a tps sensor stop my overdrive from working? I just checked it I'm getting a constant 5v reading from it that would also mess with my shift smoothness yeah?

Right.

mostly directed to magna buff but anyone else as well

Update on the old magna

just fixed cv joint!!!!!

the only things left are the timing chain (will do soon)

and the overdrive which has still left me stumped.

what i have done to gearbox:
new oil (3 times to flush out final time with mitsubishi sp3)
magnafine inline filter
new gearbox filter and gasket
new overdrive clutches

and still the overdrive wont work when hot. i dont get it!!
any suggestions