Hey all, a mate of mine is currently changing my auto box out for me and I'm 1600km away.. He is asking if he is doing something wrong or if the 32mm bolt that holds the driveshaft onto the wheel hub is supposed to be torqued so tight that a rattle gun and a kinchrome breaker bar can't undo it?

Fairly urgent, responses appreciated.

Yeah, it's held on pretty tight! I've broken a breaker bar on this before.

Rattle gun didn't do it for me - screwdriver in the vents of the brake disc & breaker bar should do it. Freeze/ release spray should help.

take out the split pin
have someone there with a foot on the brake
of have a steel rim tyre on the ground

Yep he snapped his breaker bar.. Ended up dropping the whole hub assembly instead :/ wtf are magnas so retardedly tight for? Other cars aren't so tight..

a rattle gun should get it off no troubles we have used a battery powered one for afew of our cars and the nut comes off easy as

Yep he snapped his breaker bar.. Ended up dropping the whole hub assembly instead :/ wtf are magnas so retardedly tight for? Other cars aren't so tight..

Simple, because there are a group of morons out there who think they know about Magna's (thankfully not on AMC anymore) who will tell you to use a breaker bar with a 3 foot bar hanging off that and jump on that. It is people like this whom are responsible for these things

I had a 626 the other day which my Snap On rattle gun with a breaking torque of 900nm would not budge the drive shaft nut, I had to cut the nut off the old shaft in the end. I have not ever had an issue with a Magna to this extent however also remember that a lot of the tools out there are not that good quality thus the broken bars lol

As for putting a steel wheel and putting on the ground again, what a waste of time!.. Just lock off with a punch or screw driver in the vent and rest agains the caliper. I have done this for years back before I had my good rattle gun

When you tighten you really should torque it back up, I have a dedicated torque wrence for doing these, I know is not practicle for most but will ensure that both your wheel bearings as well as your shaft will remain servicable in the future

Yeah if he had gotten it off he would have properly torqued it, but alas it would budge.

Oh and holy sheeeeeeet at the 900nm gun not budging a nut!!

That was the tightest hub nut I have ever come across

I had my breaker bar, approx 5m bar and my 90kg off the end of that, I thought I was going to drop the car off the hoist. This was after the rattle gun did not budge it. I then used the die grinder to cut the nut to the thread and back to the hub and then a cold chisel to then split the nut

Another thing with your mates car, may be poss some douche bag has used lock tight on the nut as well, have seen this a few times, I cant explain why they would do that but has been done by people, also makes getting the shaft out fun as the locktight will generally flow down the shaft and lock the whole bloody thing in

Mmmm - 90 Kg, hanging off a 5m bar, why that equals a torque of 4,500 Nm!

Standard tightening torque is 260 Nm IIRC, I can undo that by standing on the end of a 35 cm spanner with my 100 Kg weight (= 350 Nm). I might have to jump up and down on it a bit though. lol I use a torque wrench to do it up. It only goes to 200 Nm but the spanner gives it a bit more of a turn.

Breaking breaker bars on this nut comes from some Cranium Head called Richard overtightening it in the first place, the threads kinda weld together and will never shift ever again. Unless you cut them off with an angle grinder . . . .kinda wrecks the shaft thread though.

If you belong to the "I don't use a torque wrench and tighter is better" school of home mechanics, just remember it IS possible to snap the threaded part of the axle shaft right off, and overtightening this nut causes excessive preload on the wheel bearing.

Then you can do what the moron mechanic (trade assistant) that I used to work next to did, finger tighten the drive shaft nut and forget about it.. And have the customers wheel come off half way from Perth to Kalgoorlie <_<

Oh well all sorted now. Oh and it's my car he's working on, I'm changing the tippy box to a TL box with 30k on it before I sell the car :)

Attack it with plenty of penetrating fluid and do what Mal said.

I have a 3/4 drive rattle gun for badass nuts ......... I used it on a toyota paseo the other day and it sheared off the end of the cv shaft with the nut still attached.

Some twit had reassembled the hub with stuff all grease in it and the heat had seized the lot together.

Moral ......... dont get too carried away with the force ...... you may not like what happens.

heat kills loctite
gently get the oxy

if ur breaker bar is too short
get an extension pole

get a proper penetrating spray
not gp wd40
these also work on time, e.g. soak it, go have lunch, come back later.

6sided socket, not 32
make sure the split pin is out.

id u want I have a special hub spanner, 5 holes to let the hub threads through and a hole in the center for the d/s and nut