are the valve-stem seals hard to replace in 3.5 tj magna thanks warren

Very time consuming, yes.

There are 2 issues with doing the stem seals with the heads on with the 24v motor

First of all, the difficulty, they to be blunt are simply pricks to get at

Secondly I have seen in the past when done this way there will be a build up of varnish on the stems and this can cause the new seals to fail very early.

Before you go ahead and do this, give the motor a really good flush with something like Wynns Engine Flush, then use HPR10 Penrite, although will not fix the issue may reduce the smoke and oil consumption greatly

So if mines blowing smoke on take off, this engine flush and HPR10 oil might help?

It is due for an oil change soon...

Since my recent thread was merely closed before anybody got the chance to give their input, I shall ask my bit here, as advised by Madmagna. My car has 100,000KM and the valve seals are leaking; I'm looking to get the valve seals replaced all together, not some dodgy thick oil temporary fix. I wanted to know how much other AMC members have paid to have this work done, and if there was any upset to the engine whatsoever?
Sorry for the thread hijacking, but there isn't much you can do when admin tell you to locate and read the current thread on this problem, which answers nothing to do with what you're asking.

Best to get a quote from a Mitsu dealer and a couple of independent workshops.

I've done valve stem seals on a second gen V6, it was hard enough with the heads off the engine, and that engine has only 12 valves, while the 3.5 has 24.

Honestly, I would try the engine flush and HPR10 first. At 100,000 km the engine should NOT be having valve stem seal problems.

Best to get a quote from a Mitsu dealer and a couple of independent workshops.

I've done valve stem seals on a second gen V6, it was hard enough with the heads off the engine, and that engine has only 12 valves, while the 3.5 has 24.

Honestly, I would try the engine flush and HPR10 first. At 100,000 km the engine should NOT be having valve stem seal problems.

Alrighty, thanks for the input, appreciate it! I think I might do what you said, and get a few different quotes on how much its going to be. I'd rather just get the problem completely fixed now than patching it up for later. Hopefully it'll be less than $1K.
I've heard that getting this invasive with the engine can upset a few things, though? I've read that people have broken head gaskets etc...

"Upset" is the wrong word to use here, it's used for living things only. lol "Stuff up" is probably a better way to express it. lol
Get a mechanic to confirm your diagnosis first though.

Seriously, a mechanic worth his salt is not going to stuff up a job like this. Ask for a warranty of some sort though.

And, quoting myself:
"Honestly, I would try the engine flush and HPR10 first. At 100,000 km the engine should NOT be having valve stem seal problems."

If they take the head off to do the seals, then you might want to put in a new gasket when it goes back on. If the mechanic doesn't know how to put a head on a car, they probably shouldn't be a mechanic.

Since my recent thread was merely closed before anybody got the chance to give their input, I shall ask my bit here, as advised by Madmagna. My car has 100,000KM and the valve seals are leaking; I'm looking to get the valve seals replaced all together, not some dodgy thick oil temporary fix. I wanted to know how much other AMC members have paid to have this work done, and if there was any upset to the engine whatsoever?
Sorry for the thread hijacking, but there isn't much you can do when admin tell you to locate and read the current thread on this problem, which answers nothing to do with what you're asking.

The fault description given in your other thread does not confirm that the valve seals are leaking. The usual test for bad valve seals is to watch the exhaust for the first 5 seconds after the car has been parked overnight - if you get a cloud of blue smoke or even a strong hint of blue smoke then you can assume it is indeed the valve seals. Your car was left parked for weeks and then you idled the engine for 10-15 mins before driving off - even a brand new car would blow smoke after being parked for so long and then idled.
I'd go with the advice on this thread - flush and then HPR10 - it is not a dodgy temporary thick oil fix as the oil is 10/50 weight multigrade and not cheap plus it is used by many on this forum including myself (and I'm a tightass).