Hi there everyone,,,,:beer:
last friday i notice water/coolan leaking from where the timing belt is and i think it might be from the pump just wondering because i got the car on 209ks and i had to replace sparks front and back,,,,(pre owner didnt replace) would the timing belt last this long without changing?
or what i'm thinking is they done the belt but didnt change the pump:nuts:
what should i do replace pump with or without belts??? cost wise not much dfferent!!!!

changing the pump or belt without doing the other is just stupid imho

if your not sure if the belt was done, then def do it dude however i cant remember any case where ive seen oil leak as a result of timing belt / water pump gone maybe cam seals???

If you're not sure about the state of the timing belt, replace it. Interference engine.

People need to understand what happens if the timing belt lets go. Let me elaborate with a picture.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/3641/44528675.jpg

Hi there everyone,,,,:beer:
last friday i notice water/coolan leaking from where the timing belt is and i think it might be from the pump just wondering because i got the car on 209ks and i had to replace sparks front and back,,,,(pre owner didnt replace) would the timing belt last this long without changing?
or what i'm thinking is they done the belt but didnt change the pump:nuts:
what should i do replace pump with or without belts??? cost wise not much dfferent!!!!

If you bought the car at 209K Km you can be sure the belt hasn't been changed. By rights the engine should be on its third belt.
To check: Remove one of the top belt covers, and look at the white writing on the smooth side of the belt. If it is clean and fresh, the belt is new, if it is worn and hard to read the belt is old.

Usually the second belt change at about 200,000 km is when people change cam belt, cam/crank seals, water pump, cam belt idlers, hydraulic tensioner, external belts and idlers. This adds up rather expensive, so people sell their Magna at 200,000 km and keep quiet about this service not being done, for the new owner to do. The fact that you needed to change the spark plugs is a good indicator the cam belt etc job hasn't been done. I hope you got the car cheap!

If you are a DIY type of Magna owner, the parts required are available from MitsuFix or can be imported from the USA.

god ur scarering me !!!!!
but i'll hav to do it like to keep the car still runs very nice
i saw a tensioner kit from supercheapauto for like $170
do they include timing belt or do i have to get it sperate?
thanks to you all
this website is been great help thanks amigos:)

If you bought the car at 209K Km you can be sure the belt hasn't been changed. By rights the engine should be on its third belt.
To check: Remove one of the top belt covers, and look at the white writing on the smooth side of the belt. If it is clean and fresh, the belt is new, if it is worn and hard to read the belt is old.

Usually the second belt change at about 200,000 km is when people change cam belt, cam/crank seals, water pump, cam belt idlers, hydraulic tensioner, external belts and idlers. This adds up rather expensive, so people sell their Magna at 200,000 km and keep quiet about this service not being done, for the new owner to do. The fact that you needed to change the spark plugs is a good indicator the cam belt etc job hasn't been done. I hope you got the car cheap!

If you are a DIY type of Magna owner, the parts required are available from MitsuFix or can be imported from the USA.
change cam belt, cam/crank seals, water pump, cam belt idlers, hydraulic tensioner, external belts and idlers?
how much would all this cost and do you know by chance part numbers ?

change cam belt, cam/crank seals, water pump, cam belt idlers, hydraulic tensioner, external belts and idlers?
how much would all this cost and do you know by chance part numbers ?

Go to Mitsufix website (a sponsor here) and price up the parts. Also have a look at rockauto.com - I have a 2001 TJ and engine parts are the same as a 2001 Diamante - same car essentially.
If I knew what model/year/engine you have, I could look it up I suppose . . . . (TJ Solara?)

From http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1374397,parttype,10063,a,Ad%2BCode%2Bwww .google.com.au%2B
2001 3.5L Diamante

Camshaft seals = $2.65 (X 2)
Crankshaft seal $3.65
Dayco cam belt kit - belt, water pump, 2 idlers, hydraulic tensioner = $162.89 (all US $)

Other bits like ancillary belts and tensioners are available too, but I would look at them first to see if you really need them.

Cheaper than local (Mitsubishi) parts, even though postage can double the total, it works out about half the price of Mitsubishi dealer parts.
Takes about a week to land on your doorstep.

Go to Mitsufix website (a sponsor here) and price up the parts. Also have a look at rockauto.com - I have a 2001 TJ and engine parts are the same as a 2001 Diamante - same car essentially.
If I knew what model/year/engine you have, I could look it up I suppose . . . . (TJ Solara?)

From http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1374397,parttype,10063,a,Ad%2BCode%2Bwww .google.com.au%2B
2001 3.5L Diamante

Camshaft seals = $2.65 (X 2)
Crankshaft seal $3.65
Dayco cam belt kit - belt, water pump, 2 idlers, hydraulic tensioner = $162.89 (all US $)

Other bits like ancillary belts and tensioners are available too, but I would look at them first to see if you really need them.

Cheaper than local (Mitsubishi) parts, even though postage can double the total, it works out about half the price of Mitsubishi dealer parts.
Takes about a week to land on your doorstep.2000 3.5 tj solara and sorry i should mention the car has now 222 678KS on it but apart from water leaking is fine no funny noises,,, so do you think i need changing all you have mention??? also do they sell this in sydney???

I don't have x-ray vision and can't see the inside of your engine. Usually a mechanic pulls down the timing side of the engine, examines and tests bits, then sends his apprentice off to a Mitsuishi dealer to buy the parts that are needed. I do it that way (I just don't get the parts locally, but from rockauto) to save buying bits I don't need. But I can afford to have my car off the road for extended periods while I wait for parts to arrive.

Can you buy these bits in Sydney? Sure, ring your nearest Mitsu dealer, and check prices at local car parts suppliers. Get some quotes for the whole job from local mechanics too. As a DIY exercise it's not one for beginners.

Definitely, Replace the timing belt, seals, idler pulleys and tensioner, as a Mechanic, I have done many of these and we will NOT offer any sort of warranty on replacement of the belt only (we tell customers this before we start) and most people are happy to pay the extra cost for piece of mind, as was earlier said, chances are it hasn't been done and you are definitely running on borrowed time now it's done 22k over the 200k, if you like the car and are intending on keeping it for a while, do the lot, Repco or Bursons will sell a kit with everything you need other than the water pump, not cheap but a lot cheaper than a new motor, and shop around, you might be able to play the suppliers off against each other for a cheaper price, they usually have a pretty good markup on them to start with, hope this helps

There should be a sticker somewhere to indicate a belt change but after reading alot about timing belt failures and there consequences i would suggest action asap as you will not get any "funny noises" as out of the blue mine broke @ 220k.

DONT use an aftermarket pre pretensioner. Dont even bother changing the pre tensioner if the old one is not making any start up noise, is just a waste of money

A full kit without the tensioner but with belt, seals and pulleys is $142.50, the water pump kit is $95 plus shipping, I have both listed in ebay

Also, if your pump is leaking, the belt is contaminated and needs to be changed

"DONT use an aftermarket pre pretensioner. Dont even bother changing the pre tensioner if the old one is not making any start up noise, is just a waste of money"

A question for Mal: Thanks to you, I have confirmed that the pretensioner on my Pajero is sticky. Sometimes it rattles on startup, other times it is quiet. I can kill the noise by stopping the engine and then restarting - noise goes. Apart from annoying me, it is likely to do any damage if I leave it rattle? The belt tension is (as far as I am aware) good.

How much is the tensioner?

I on the other hand strongly recommend you do change the tensioner... Madmagna, and why not an after market one? I've done quite a few 2nd and 3rd gen V6 timing belts and always fitted an after market tensioner that comes with the kit (usually a Gates kit) never had one come back with a problem yet!

I on the other hand strongly recommend you do change the tensioner... Madmagna, and why not an after market one? I've done quite a few 2nd and 3rd gen V6 timing belts and always fitted an after market tensioner that comes with the kit (usually a Gates kit) never had one come back with a problem yet!

Really, I am glad that you strongly recommend to change a pre tensioner on a second gen THEY DONT HAVE ONE so all the best with that

The second gen has a bearing tensioner pulley, no pretensioner, the third gen has a tensioner pulley which is then also pre tensioned. I am talking about the actual pre tensioner not the tensioner bearing itself

The third gen, why change it if it is not noisy, why waste so much money changing something that does not give a lot of issue. You read about here a bit but FFS we have a minute amount of magna and verada's here on AMC compared to the amount which were made. I have had Gates and other brands which have been lucky to last 40k after install, this is a common problem to the extent where 2 of my wholesale suppliers no longer stock them. THIS is why I dont use aftermarket and why I only replace them when they need replacing. Is not a huge job to change them so does not make much difference leaving them alone.

As for the amount you have done, that is great, I have lost count of how many I have done and as for the kits, on average I will sell 4 - 7 kits per week to send around aust, out of those sales I will generally have 1 person ask about the rattle and then sell a pre tensioner to go with the kit, a genuine one.

OK I guess you win this one as my 26 years of being a mechanic and wanting to share my knowledge probably means nothing to anyone, I was not being model specific, I've done Toyotas, European Holdens and Fords, Mazdas, Daewoos, Hyundais, Kias and plenty of others that I can't care to remember, I was just sharing My opinion in an open forum, Is that not what this is? I'm sorry if I've stepped on your toes here or if you think I've affected your business with my comment, that was not my intention, I was merely putting my opinion out there in case somebody wanted my advice, as of today, I could count the number of genuine kits I have fitted in my time on one hand, and I have never had a problem with the genuine ones other than the dealer prices, nor have I had any comebacks with any of the many, many, after market kits I've fitted, if my Magna was a V6 and it was due a belt, I personally would replace everything, just my opinion!

I am not talking about GENUINE kits, nor am I talking about Holdens, Toyotas, Hondas etc etc

I am talking about 6G7x range of motors, that is all.

Quite frankly I dont care how many Hondas you have done, I dont work on anything but Mitsubishi.

There is nothing wrong with an aftermarket kit, use bloody bubble gum and fuse wire for all I care, what I am only talking about is the PRE TENSIONER and that is it. My kits (which are some of the cheapest around), while they have a non genuine (Sun) belt, all the bearings and seals are the same as the genuine ones BUT this is because it is what my supplier gets out of Japan, not because I get them from Mitsubishi.

As for stepping on my toes or affecting my business, are you really serious???? How the hell will the decision for someone to add more cost to a job affect my business. As you have been in the trade for so long as I have, you would well know that the margin on Genuine parts is three fifths of **** all so weather someone does or does not replace the PreTensioner is no skin off my nose, I just dont like to see people waste money they may not need to.

For the record, I have had many many calls from Mechanics who have done pretensioners on 6G motors, they are baffled as the customer calls them sometime later with a start up rattle, when I tell them to check the pre tensioner they laugh and then state was replaced. I tell them to check anyway, get the car overnight and see what happens in the morning, I often get a call back thanking me and them advising me they have replaced with a genuine PreTensioner

OK, no worries, guess I've been lucky then, cheers.

OK, no worries, guess I've been lucky then, cheers.

You have to love straight up luck I guess! :-P

Can verify 's Mal's experience. Had full Gates kit installed in our 3rd gen. Gates pretensioner lasted 2000km. Should have left the original one in. The mechanic insisted it was replaced but not sure he will now.....