Last night my daughters TE over heated so she pulled over.When the temp went down she continued on (with out checking for water as she was on the freeway and no shoulder) within 5 mins the car just stopped (it felt like the brakes where on )
When i got there there was no water in the radiator and the starter sounded as if it was free wheeling if that makes sense but not turning over the motor.
After a tow and in daylight a top up of water sees it running from the inside of the two heads and down under the thermostat housing, it could be thought that this is where the leak is but there is water sitting inside the from the thermostat housing area (I assume there is a welch plug on the inside ?) as all the hoses seem fine.

As i can not get the motor to turn over is there a way to get a spanner on somewhere to rotate the engine

The Oil is clean no water

Appreciate any suggestions on how to check if motor has been killed

Also any indication on a fitting cost of a Used motor would be ?

Cheers

Breaker bar on the crank at the front of the engine. There is a 1/2 socket for a breaker bar to go straight on. If you end up replacing the engine its a perfect time to go 3.5L, most 3.5L's will be newer, due to torque increase they are prone to using less fuel then the 3L (less labouring).

Just removed timing covers and belt is intact (as in still goes around all wheels/pulleys in one piece) but shredded

Using breaker bar motor turns round easy as

If timing belt is shredded, engine is done. Valves have hit the pistons.

Sounds cooked. Alloy heads soften when they overheat, the alloy oozes away from the headbolts and the head gaskets start to leak. Been there, done that but with a Sigma 2.0L motor. Not much left to salvage, it got replaced.
The starter motor probably is turning over the motor, but with lost compression it just seems like it is spinning by itself.

Repair:
Long version: Pull motor, dismantle, repair all the damage. Shredded belt tells me its a high Km motor with lots to fix on it.
Short version: Start looking for a low Km motor.

Yes concede that it must be toast
By hand or by starter i am able to turn crankshaft (Water pump crank alternator etc) but the timing belt and items just stays still

new engine

as mentioned better bet it to go 3.5 litre while ur replacing it anyways

when ur looking at prices speak to mal, you might get lucky and find it cheaper to have the heavy arse thing sent up if your not in the bigger citys

Yes concede that it must be toast
By hand or by starter i am able to turn crankshaft (Water pump crank alternator etc) but the timing belt and items just stays still

Possibly seized a camshaft from one of the heads overheating, which shredded the cam belt where the teeth ride on the crankshaft cog.

Possibly.

Indicates some serious damage to the motor though.

Remove spark plugs and turn the crank. There should be no resistance.

To be honest, if that motor got so hot that it stopped, stop wasteing your time and looking to fix

Piston rings will have lost tension for starters not to mention heads etc etc

Replace with a 3.5 motor, is a straight bolt in, not hard to do, dont need to touch the ECU either.

I know that in this case your daughter was on a freeway so had not choice but if this happens and you get your motor hot, try and leave it running, cool off the radiator with a hose if you can to bring temp down before you shut down, this will stop heat soak and more damage as most damaged is done after the motor is switched off

I was also keep the engine running if possible, told to drop all the windows, run the heater on full blast, as it would help pull heat out of the engine..

I was also keep the engine running if possible, told to drop all the windows, run the heater on full blast, as it would help pull heat out of the engine..

The heater pulls heat from the coolant. Without coolant i dont think it would pump any heat through

Yes, I don't think the advice was specific to losing coolant; just a general response of what to do perhaps if the gauge is reading too high while you are pulling over.

Any suggestions on where to get a 3.5 in Queensland or reasonable freight from else where and indication of expected average cost and install cost
Asking a bit i know but just thought i would put that out there

Cheers

There is a place in Caloundra that appears to specialise in Mitsubishis.
Lancercity is the store name
Do a search on Ebay.
Gerry

Any suggestions on where to get a 3.5 in Queensland or reasonable freight from else where and indication of expected average cost and install cost
Asking a bit i know but just thought i would put that out there

Cheers

You can pick up a decent 3.5l from ABC Spares parts for around $229 off the top of my head and probably around 500 to have it fitted. I paid $1200 for a low K engine and auto box fitted about 2 years ago.

Out of the capital city in Qld you will pay at least $500 for an engine....add another $600 to fit. You have to pickup the motor from the wrecker in a trailer and they are heavy. Those prices do not include new hoses/belts and fluids which can easily add a few hundred. To get a wrecker/mechanic to do the job you must get the vehicle towed to his shop ($100) and then experience the usual delays in fitting. All up I would expect about $1500 if you are not doing the work yourself.
My advice FWIW is to buy another Magna/Camry/whatever - just looked on Carsales and in Brisbane there are newer models of Magnas to be had with RWC and rego AND running for less than $2500. That saves all the hassles of running around and it is DONE. Take what you want off the old car, ring the mob that give you $200 for a car body and tell them to pick it up. Take the plates off and get a refund on the rego. Easy.
Finally - it's almost Xmas so don't expect action from any mechanics as most are flat chat. Good Luck.