My car is giving me a bit of headaches over the last few months - Please read / watch the video..... and tell me what you think.
Thanks is advanced :)

MAIN VIDEO - http://youtu.be/lhlfnSzkhc8

Start Up: Occasionally car will not start, clear cranking sounds however car will not start. When I accelerate a bit during start up it will eventually turn over (1 in 20 start ups).
Here is the closest video i could do before start up..... time before this the car would not start at all (like 2secs before) http://youtu.be/O4RViNGkfW0

Alternatively it may shoot up to 2200 rpm and then slowly (extremely!) come down to normal(ish) regions (1 in 7 start ups). This happens when the car is warm too!
Otherwise starts fine!
Video- http://youtu.be/7yHkex1lpSQ

Idle: Idle will fluctuate sometimes goes up to 1400rpm and then goes down to around 1000. During this time the car feels like it wants to charge forward.
Otherwise idles fine!
Video as above

Driving: Letting go of the accelerator sometimes the car will hold around 1400 rpm and drive at constant speed (even 70km per hour). When the car gets stuck in this mood, it will accelerate off the line and even change gears (without any accelerator).
Otherwise drives fine!
Video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H40bYC10bu8

Check Engine Light:
I have seen this come on while driving – turns off on the next start
Sometime the car smells like it is burning excessive fuel – i.e running rich, simular to my old car without a CAT.

Recently changed: Oxy Sensor, Starter Motor, Battery, Throttle Body (complete unit), Base Idle Reset, rewired connector for the immobiliser (under the dash next to ignition barrel)

Changed (Non related reasons): Radiator, Fan and temp sensor (above the thermostat), alternator

Prior to going out and changing heaps of bits and pieces trying to put my finger on the pulse..... would appreciate any feedback from people that have had this sort of problem.

Double post

Was thinking about this more today.....what I would like to do when you next come in is pop another ECU into the car, I have one here from a KF that will go in. I have not had in the past quite what your issue is but sort of similar with the idle side of things The AirControl Valve in your old TB was definately shagged and would be the main cause of the high idle like it did last Thursday at my place but the erratic starting issue may be the immob or the ECU, have you checked for coolant on the ECU

Mal just pulled the carpet off and it is dry, only saw a bit of dust (nothing out of the ordinary).

I saw the wire that you were talking about on injector (6). Once i pulled back the carpet i saw it there, kind of next to the ECU, covered in black plastic tape though so i take it was non active. Weriod why it was there in the first place.

Guys get some pop corn and watch the videos :) tell me what you think lol please!

Really 3 days later and still no thoughts?!

Sounds like the engine is getting a bad reading from coolant temp sensor and staying in cold start mode. Since it appears that you changed temp sensor make sure that the coolant system is properly bled. If there is air in the system you may have an air space around the sensor giving a bad reading.

Coolant temp readings are find, the car has been run through the MUTTII and all readings been checked.

I suppose you have tried:
Looking for massive air leak in the intake system after the MAF- tubing split, etc?
Cleaned MAF plug and socket, checked contacts inside the plug for recession, checked wiring?
Tried a different MAF?

My TS does something similar if I forget to plug the MAF back in.

OK, finally after waiting about a week for the car to complete not want to start – i managed for this to occur in garage. This meant that my brother could start the car and i could observe what is going on.

When the car doesn’t want to start, there is a clear whining / grinding (audible but not loud noise), when the key is in the ‘on’ position. I then applied a wooden stick to where i could feel vibrations – it is coming from near the throttle body (or even in-side).

Once i waited for the noise / grind to stop, i cranked the car and then it fired up – everything normal.

What does this noise sound like? I have heard this on most magnas – when they are turning off, that slight grind and you hear as the last audible noise as the car turns off.

Any suggestions? As this is a pain in rear end because it seems to never misbehave when i need to demonstrate this.

Thinking more and more about this - could this be a sticky relay?? to me it seems electrical related......

that sound is possibly your idle air control motor (99.9%) and from what i gather its a normal sound
perhaps your car is sick in the head (ecu)

that sound is possibly your idle air control motor (99.9%) and from what i gather its a normal sound
perhaps your car is sick in the head (ecu)

Is that part of the throttle body?

I can assure you that clicking and tick noise when the car starts is not normal at all....... as soon as it stops the car starts perfectly fine. If that noise is not there at all the car starts with no issues at all!

FINALLY MANAGED TO FILM WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT.

WHERE THE VIDEO STARTS IS WHERE THE NOISE IS COMING FROM (TB) ....... ONCE IT STOPS AFTER DOING THIS FOR 20-30secs THE CAR STARTS NO PROBLEM

http://youtu.be/lhlfnSzkhc8

have you checked and cleaned your earths for the ecu and engine?

Haven't got a blown fuse somewhere? I remember my mag making some buzzing/grinding noise when I turned the key to "on" after I had blown a fuse in the yellow square in the engine bay fuse box

It is normal for a rattling sort of sound when you first turn on the key, I did look at that vid but could not for the life of me hear anything let alone anything abnormal

In the end the "check engine light" was the coolent temp sensor been out of range. Swapped this and with a new one and the car is running fine with no issues - seems like the was forced into "auto choke" mode.

Anyways a $40 sensor managed to cause such a head ache lol

Big Thanks to Mal at Mits Fixs for sorting this out for me!