I have a TJ Ralliart and have found it pulls a little to the left on most roads. I have checked tyre pressures (30 up front, 26 at rear) to which has not helped.

After a brief discussion to a suspension person indicated TJ's don't have camber adjustments so a wheel alignment cannot be done. Is this true?

Any indications as to why it pulls to the left a little?

AWESOME CAR MATE, i love the TJ ralli art its my favourite car, sorry i cant help you at all, but i just wanted you to know that i look up to you mr. ralli art owner :D

It cost me 70 bucks but I had one after the lowering package was put on.

I also had a anti-lift camber kit and a castor kit put on the front.

But still without touching the rear the bloke said that he had all the maneuver that he needed.

ie as far as I know you can.

Could it just be the camber of road making the car wanting to turn a bit left when u drive? Especially on the highway or may be I'm wrong. I have a Ralliart Magna too.....and they are a beast!

I concur with rall!art. Most roads are designed to slope to the left a bit (1-5°?). This helps water drain off the road, and i think also stops sleeping drivers from running into oncoming traffic (don't think they designed it for this reason, but still.) If it's only pulling a bit to the left, then your car is set up normally. Can't answer your problem about TJ's not being able to get a realignment though.

Oh, try driving on the other side of the road. Does your car steer to the right? I assume as you can afford a ralliart, you're a smart person and will ensure you're on a quiet court or something, and ensure no traffic is coming the other way.

Good luck, love your car dude. If it turns out your steering is stuffed, 'll gladly swap you my sexy TR. The steering is A+!

I have found that if i drive on a road which leans a little to the right the car stays straight, not veer to the right. I also understand the cam alignment is designed to offset the camber of our roads which do slope due to water runoff but over the years i have had TH, TJ and TL which never veered to the left. The Ralliart i bought last week does. Not incredibly bad but i can certainly feel it pulling..

But it's off to the suspension expert for him to take a look. I may discuss the possibility of a 4 wheel alignment and see how goes.

After a brief discussion to a suspension person indicated TJ's don't have camber adjustments so a wheel alignment cannot be done. Is this true?
You can get kits to allow camber to be adjusted.
However, saying a wheel alignment cannot be done isn't quite true....castor and toe-in can still be adjusted.



Any indications as to why it pulls to the left a little?
Probably uneven castor.

Cheers,
Martin.

How many km's has the car done? Do you know if the tyres have ever been rotated?

I would suggest that you get the tyres rotated and then get a four wheel alignment done by a specialist.

The car has done 12,000Kms and as far as i know Mitsubishi rotated them. The Pirelli tyres physically look good and don't make a lot of noise so i think it may well be castor as someone has pointed out.

I appreciate all efforts of help and will advise what the outcome is this afternoon (car booked in at 2pm today)...

Castor cannot be adjusted on factory suspension; you need either adjustable castor bushes or adjustable strut tops. Camber is also fixed and will require either adjustable strut tops or camber bolts in the struts. The only parameter that you can change on a factory setup is toe, if anything else is substantially out then you either have uneven height springs, or something is bent.

More than 30mins of cross camber (difference left/right) will cause the car to drift though, for example with my car it's set up with only my weight taken into account, so when someone else sits in the car it will drift left.

Thanks again for the responses. Well the suspension guy took a look and gave it the all clear. A trip to Beaurepairs and a request to move the back tyres to the front and the front to the back seemed to of done the trick. It certainly feels much better so i must have a slightly uneven worn tyre (might explain the 4psi more in one front tyre then the other).

At the same time i took the liberty of installing some decent lock nuts on me Ralliart wheels. I don't want some mungrel pinching me wheels/tyres...

i have the same problem in my TH advance. on highways there is a constant need to tug to the right. and the problems get worse closer to the left lanes, where some steep banks cause you to tug a little harder to the right. i've had wheel alightnments and rotations with bob jane but they couldn't find a fault. i've just lived with it since.

Good to see another Ralliart on Aussie Magna.

Can't say I've experienced the car pulling or drifting to the left on mine. Anyway, sounds like you've sorted the problem.

I had a camber kit put in mine and it as $300 fitted. The camber pin itself looks like a $5 bolt!! It has been set up with 1.5 degrees negative camber. The rear has half a degree toe in or toe out (can't remember which). The combination of front and rear adjustment on my car help in reducing understeer.

I must check out the mods to the suspension to allow adjustments. I guess Mitsubishi didn't add these sorts of things in to cut costs....

I also have noticed that the Ralliart certainly has more "road feel" through the steering wheel compared to other model Magna's. You really feel the bumps, uneven roads and variations in the road transmitted thru the steering wheel. I am led to beleive this was done on purpose and some sort of valve was installed on the power assisted steering rack to acheive this. Personally i'd rather a less aggressive feel but i don't know whether this "valve" can be removed or not.

My TR's steering you can hardly feel the road! i'll gladly swap you your magna for my magna. :cool:

My TR's steering you can hardly feel the road! i'll gladly swap you your magna for my magna. :cool:

hahaha - Sorry...no deal.. but i'll take it off your hands for free!

I must check out the mods to the suspension to allow adjustments. I guess Mitsubishi didn't add these sorts of things in to cut costs....

I also have noticed that the Ralliart certainly has more "road feel" through the steering wheel compared to other model Magna's. You really feel the bumps, uneven roads and variations in the road transmitted thru the steering wheel. I am led to beleive this was done on purpose and some sort of valve was installed on the power assisted steering rack to acheive this. Personally i'd rather a less aggressive feel but i don't know whether this "valve" can be removed or not.

Likely due to the higher rated springs/dampers and possibly harder suspension bushes. The bigger wheels would also transmit more feedback through the steering wheel; it's nothing to do with the steering rack valving. I'm all for super harshness so you can read the road through the seat and steering wheel.

I must check out the mods to the suspension to allow adjustments. I guess Mitsubishi didn't add these sorts of things in to cut costs....

I also have noticed that the Ralliart certainly has more "road feel" through the steering wheel compared to other model Magna's. You really feel the bumps, uneven roads and variations in the road transmitted thru the steering wheel. I am led to beleive this was done on purpose and some sort of valve was installed on the power assisted steering rack to acheive this. Personally i'd rather a less aggressive feel but i don't know whether this "valve" can be removed or not.

The cost of adding adjustable camber bolts to a production car would be minimal... in mass production they cost little more than a regular bolt as they are just a concentric cam design. The reason why they don't always add them, is due to the fact that anything adjustable can be either incorrectly adjusted, or knocked out of adjustment. If something is fixed at what they deem to be the correct specification, then there is less potential for both to occur.

Most roads are designed to slope to the left a bit (1-5°?). This helps water drain off the road, and i think also stops sleeping drivers from running into oncoming traffic (don't think they designed it for this reason, but still.)

All roads have crossfall. Normal crossfall is for drainage purposes and superelevation is for tighter corners. Crossfall is typically 3%, i.e. rises 1 metre in 100 metres and it can rise to 6% when in superelevation.

I haven't got a clue about the rest of the topic :bowrofl:

Only kidding. It can be adjusted but is usually adjusted to get even tyre wear.

All roads have crossfall. Normal crossfall is for drainage purposes and superelevation is for tighter corners. Crossfall is typically 3%, i.e. rises 1 metre in 100 metres and it can rise to 6% when in superelevation.

Well, sounds like something to do with civil engineering to me :confused: i'm sure we'll get around to that sometime later...in the next few years...if i dont faiil and drop out :doubt:

After more research the valve was installed to reduce the effectiveness of the power steering. Apparantly it enhances the "road feel". I'm just used to VRX's, not Ralliarts so i am getting used to driving it now. I don't know about the Pirelli P6000's though.. I don't feel as safe with then as i did the G Grid II's. They are **** hot tyres. The Pirelli's seem to be less grippy and more unstable?? Just not the same as the G Grid's. Could be just me!

After more research the valve was installed to reduce the effectiveness of the power steering. Apparantly it enhances the "road feel". I'm just used to VRX's, not Ralliarts so i am getting used to driving it now. I don't know about the Pirelli P6000's though.. I don't feel as safe with then as i did the G Grid II's. They are **** hot tyres. The Pirelli's seem to be less grippy and more unstable?? Just not the same as the G Grid's. Could be just me!

If you think the GIIIs are nice, you should try the S03s! Also in the Pirelli range the P-Zero Direzionale are quite good. The Ralliarts really need good tyres to make the most of them.

Well, sounds like something to do with civil engineering to me :confused: i'm sure we'll get around to that sometime later...in the next few years...if i dont faiil and drop out :doubt:
Sure is. I'm a civil draftsman.