CAUTION - THIS BUILD FORUM CONTAIN PICTURES OF DEAD MAGNAS THAT MAY BE OFFENSIVE TO SOME VIEWERS.

OFFROAD BUGGY BUILD

I’ve been building and racing my own sedans and buggies for basic level motorsport for thirty years, winning a few club championships and state titles along the way. A number of things have motivated me to do this new project.
I’ve just about finished building my V6 EG Civic and have decided to keep it just as a tar car. Dirt events take a fairly high and constant toll on bodywork, but as rallysprints are my favourite events and I wanted to return to them, I decided to build something specifically for them. Wanting no bodywork meant it’d have to be a buggy, and the four previous ones I’d made have given me good experience in how to do it. Looking around at the current buggies I couldn’t get away from how ancient most of the winners technology was, with most of them using VW suspension designed before World War II, floor pans over forty years old, and engines from the 1980’s at best.
If I was going to invest the time, money and effort this’d take I was confident I could construct a new bench mark, and race for outright victories. A front wheel drive buggy would be way too light in the rear to handle and drift well on the dirt. Although I’ve successfully raced rear engined / rear wheel drive buggies, I felt there had to be something better than the VW type rear end with an engine swap that’s been so done to death. That only left a mid-engined racer. I’d seen a few of these made by moving a complete front wheel drive front end to the rear, and the design and race performances I’d seen had always impressed me.I'd mapped out a basic chassis design incorporating what I thought was the best features from a number of buggies and build sites I'd cruised. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/chassisdesign2.jpg
Then by chance a few weeks ago a good mate of mine told me he had a buggy chassis for sale - an old "Bushmaster"off roader. It had held a VW front and rear and didn't meet the new CAMS requirements for buggies because: 1) The diagonals are not within the main hoop 2) The rear braces have a curve in them 3) The roof is not covered nor braced to the floor and main hoop 4) The bar which holds the steering column isn't the same size as the roll bars. 5) There are no braces across the floor between the base of the front pillars nor half way between them and the main hoop. 6) The bar running up the middle of the chassis is too small. 7) It has no rear wheel protector side bars. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/Tezframe005.jpg
but it'd provide me with a lot of the right steel already bent to shapes I was sure I could adapt into my build. I love the sound of an angle grinder in the morning! http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/Tezframe007.jpg

I built a levelled, raised false floor in my garage and have marked a 100cm grid onto it. This gives me quick measurements and ensures everything will be square. A perfectly flat floor equals a perfectly flat chassis floor. I've begun with the new centre rail and the cross member on which the main hoop will stand. The cross member is the width of the outside rear tyre track. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/floor3.jpg
Next I've added the side floor rails and the cross members as CAMS requires - all made from 40mm square tubing. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/floor10a.jpg
The main hoop is then shown without a cross member and after I re-cut the old one into it. This design is one CAMS approves. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/mainhoop1.jpg http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/mainhoop5a.jpg
These fifteen 3mm gusset plates will strengthen the chassis and also serve as mounting points for the floor. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1457.jpg
They avoid weakening the frame with bolt holes, and will allow me to drop the floor out when it gets full of muddy slop like I got buried in at Ansell Park late last year. I will employ them as needed throughout the chassis to eliminate any cracking at high stress points. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1476a.jpg
Now you might be wondering why on earth this build is on this site. Well I searched the net without any preconceptions to find the most powerful, readily available, and most affordable fwd car from which to derive a powertrain and suspension to move to the rear of my buggy. I’m notorious in my home town of Newcastle as a Honda nut, but to everyone’s surprise – I settled on a 3.5 V6 Magna with a manual gearbox as the ideal donor car.
I watch the car salvage auction listings up here almost every day, and within 5 weeks what I wanted came up, and I got it with a mere $350 bid. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/wreck1.jpg
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/wreck2.jpg
It had rolled into an empty storm water drain, damaging no mechanicals but just about every panel on the car… perfect for my needs and virtually no-one elses.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/wreck5.jpg
With an electric winch mounted overhead, I was easily able to lift the body up and remove the entire front end. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/wreck8.jpg
The aluminium subframe locates most of the suspension geometry and will save me weeks of work. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/wreck9.jpg
I filled the shell with spare motors and car scrap and took it off to the metal munchers where I got $167 for it. This is a scary industrial site where cars go to die… and be re-born as god knows what or where. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/wreck15.jpg
I carefully positioned the powerplant and subframe squarely and level on my table lined up with marks for my 2 metre wheelbase. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1477.jpg
Screwing the drivers compartment frame and cage in place on the table enabled me to design and fabricate a rear subframe before my welding mate came over for what’ll be a mammoth session. I picked up the six lower subframe mounting points. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1482.jpg
After the lower frame I bent up the main rear chassis rail. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1485.jpg
Then cut it’s supporting diagonals. http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1487.jpg
She’s starting to get a look about her that suits the name she’ll carry “Raptor”! http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1490.jpg

dunno how this will turn out but KEEP IT UP

Nice work, I've been wanting to do something like that but just as a beach/farm thingy not for racing. Be good to see how it performs. Any engine mods planned?

ha, will keep an eye on this one. will be interesting

looks promising mate don't stop!

You wouldnt need engine mods really. With no real weight to the buggy, it would absolutely hammer!

All the weight in the ass end gonna make it do some awsome wheelies lol. But what an awsome build. Want some videos of this!

wooow, this sounds, awesome im subscribed to this thread :D

You are a sick sick man .................. I like that :woot:

You'll fit in here just fine, welcome to the club and keep us up to date :D

Thanks for the encouragement guys.... from one twisted soul to another eh? The only mods will be improvements to breathing - better cold air induction and exhaust headers with minimal muffling. Apart from that you're right - there'll be more power than I know what to do with, so I 'll retain the reliability of a standard engine. I've learnt that in the sort of racing I do torque is more important than horsepower, and this baby will have more than double the bhp and torque of the buggies currently winning outright. Which is precisely why I chose the Magna 3.5 V6.

Videos? If you check out my Honda racing and building films at WJP004's channel on You Tube you'll know I'm building a production on my video editing suite in tandem with my garage constructions. Being mid-engined I'm not expecting wheelies, and yes... all the weight of that big steel block will just aid traction. Some of the other highly respected buggies I wanna obliterate here in Newcastle powered only by 4 cylinder engines all get fantastic bite off the line and exiting corners due to their transverse, mid-engined layouts - so I expect the same if not better.

A basic rule in steering geometry is that the swivel joints on the end of a steering rack must align with an imaginary vertical line between the inner mounting points of the front lower and top wishbones. If this is neglected the car will steer itself as the suspension moves up & down… “bump steer”. To avoid this problem (particularly in a narrow front framed car), requires that either a steering rack be shortened to match the chassis width, or that the frame be made to the width of a suitable rack.
Shortening a rack isn’t a cheap or simple exercise by the time you buy one, dismantle it, have it machined, and then re-assembled. I searched e-bay for short racks, but the few I could find were either tiny ones designed for miniature motor bike engine buggies, or expensive new speedway items. Most were overseas with high shipping costs and prices over $400. So I just kept on looking without much hope, until last week on the ninth page under “steering rack” I saw something that appeared short and looked like it might be suitable. It was in Victoria with only a few hours to go – not enough time to find out it’s width. But it was only $20 “Buy it now”, so I took the risk and grabbed it.
The driver sits further forward in a mid-engined chassis. This means there is no room to mount a rack behind the front uprights, as there isn’t enough room with the foot well being so far forward. I ‘d worked out what front suspension uprights I wanted to use, but realized I’d have to swap them over from left to right so the steering arms were in front of the hubs.
Two days later I had my cheap used part from a Peugot 205 Gti hatch, and it was only a little wider than my laid out chassis. As this hadn’t been welded yet, I merely had to widen the frame’s nose by 100mm and it was a perfect fit. For $20! Now I can fabricate the front end of the frame.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/rack1.jpg
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/rack2.jpg
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/rack3.jpg

mate this is awesome keep the info coming!

good work mate , keep it up.
I hope you kept the ECU , wiring harness and BEM / Ignition key from the wreck.

Impressive. Love ground up builds incorporating different parts from different vehicles.

good work mate , keep it up.
I hope you kept the ECU , wiring harness and BEM / Ignition key from the wreck.

I kept it all, including the dash and it's harness. However this wreck will just be the first of two TJ's I strip for this project. The Magna front hubs lend themselves to easy add-on of an extra top wishbone which can be mounted on plates via the two large bolts that hold the struts in the original factory design. By the time I buy 2 hubs + 2 driveshafts (from which I'll remove the shaft and inner CV), it's cheaper to buy another whole car. Plus I obviously get a spare engine, gearbox, etc, etc.
I'm basically using this first wreck's powerplant and sub-frame to allow me to get on with fabricating my chassis. It had no key when I bought it. I got one off the net, took it and the steering lock to a locksmith and got a key cut, and then took the whole mashed up wreck on the trailer to my shiny local Mitsubishi service centre. The impact on staff and customers was awesome! However unfortunately they couldn't get the car to pass it's immobiliser once they'd coded the key. Seems like when the airbags go off it locks it permanently. So I'll just make sure my next wreck has a key in it. No problemo.

Talk to Steve Knight Racing in Adelaide.
He is ex factory engine management guru.
He can unlock the ECU for you and disable the need for an immobilising function. Therefore no need for a BEM, key, key aerial etc. Makes your wiring a lot simpler.
Do you have wiring diagrams. There used to be link on this site to the official Magna workshop manual.

Love you work.
My first thought when you were talking about a suitable rack would have been a MKI or MKII Ford Escort, Cortina MKIII or Capri I.

Gerry

Talk to Steve Knight Racing in Adelaide.
He is ex factory engine management guru.
He can unlock the ECU for you and disable the need for an immobilising function. Therefore no need for a BEM, key, key aerial etc. Makes your wiring a lot simpler.
Do you have wiring diagrams. There used to be link on this site to the official Magna workshop manual.

Love you work.
My first thought when you were talking about a suitable rack would have been a MKI or MKII Ford Escort, Cortina MKIII or Capri I.

Gerry

Thanks for the info. Yes those racks are all very popular ones to shorten, especially in the UK where those small "grass racers" and Hyabusa powered spaceframe race cars are very popular.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/wreck15.jpg

I'm pretty fricken sure I know this bloke. Used to work with me in Townsville.

Then tell him to let me take pictures next time will ya? It's the Onesteel recyle plant at Hexham if you wanna touch base with him again. Small world.

I'm subscribed, love these types of threads. Brings back memories for me, built my first, and only buggy in about 1983. Tubular frame with mid engined VW mechanicals. 6x4 box on the back is a tipper and bonnet. Still a fantastic tool around the property.

Keep showing us more :dancin:
Steve

Then tell him to let me take pictures next time will ya? It's the Onesteel recyle plant at Hexham if you wanna touch base with him again. Small world.

ever seen it in action (the plant)

1 min 30 sec to turn a full car to shredded steel. absolutely amazing to see.

the one thing that slows it down is the engine block.

all the stuff comes out the back and alloys, plastics and fibres are separated from the steel. very clever

I made a start on fabricating the front of the car. First piece I bent up was a big horizontal nerf bar to protect me and some of the front suspension. I made it a bit on the long side so I can trim it to size once the car is rolling and steering. I'll also brace it's ends back to the frame. Next bender creation was the lower lip of the "Rhino" bar which will be fitted with 3mm steel sheet to serve as a skid plate. It reminds me of one I made on and earlier pig hunting buggy. Still remember the sound it made when you ran over a grunter.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/Schweinhund45.jpg

It's angled right up to match the angle the nose might get when landing from a big lift off.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/23122011016.jpg
Following pic shows the sort of strengthening I'll put in once the front's welded on. Triangulation is the strongest friend of any spaceframe.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/23122011019.jpg

Here you can see the 25mm straight bar I cut to go from the top of the front hoop curve to the floor as CAMS requires.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/23122011024.jpg

Then I triangulated it into the side "hip" bar so they're bracing each other.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/23122011021.jpg

Here's a place I can add triangulation with minimal weight increase and without obstructing my forward vision. This is gonna be one tough chassis - which should stop both it and me from breaking.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/23122011023.jpg

My 4th pic above showing the bottom rail of the frame coming up at an angle at the front may concern some with suspension design awareness. Normally in a car with a lower wishbone like a clubman, racing car (or even a road car), the suspension moves up and down at 90 degrees to the horizontal. Even if it's lying over at an angle away from the wheel any coil or strut must move up and down in the same vertical plane in which the wheel does. So a discerning viewer of this build thread might think that with my frame coming up sharply at the front I haven't enough front frame low down on which to mount the front inner wishbone swivel point.

However the front wheels on this buggy will NOT travel up and down at 90 degrees to the horizontal. If they did, I'd have to build those ugly high top strut mount points to locate long travel shocks. That blocks road view and (I think), looks bloody ugly. In deciding to NOT use a VW trailing arm front end I had to search for a better design - one that I could both understand and build. Lots of surfing in cyberspace has led me to copy a design where the front wheels move BACK as they ride up. The coloured lines in this doctored pic show: red: the bonnet line defining brace that will slope down from the front hoop all the way to that big front bar; yellow: the top strut leaning right back with it's top mounting point off the front hoop, green: the lines at 90 degrees to the shock's travel along which the top and lower front wishbones will need to be positioned. The latter shows how much higher than a vertical travelling suspension the very front mounting points for the wishbones will need to be. Like I said at the very start of this blog - this will not be an old school build.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/23122011019copy.jpg

Redliner...just bloody brilliant! Well done, Sir! I know what you will be doing at the end of Christmas dinner when people are poking around looking for things to do...you'll in the garage building this magnificent beast! Man...it is going to fly with that low-weight spaceframe and the big V6!

It would wont to be a manual?

It would wont to be a manual?

Learn to read mate

Learn to read mate

And spell. I think he just looked at the pretty pictures and didn't bother reading anything, lol.

Can't wait to see the finished product here mate. Looking good. Should go like a rocket.

I think he just looked at the pretty pictures and didn't bother reading anything, lol.

Cant have even looked at the pictures because if he had he would have seen that it is a manual box attached to the engine.

Cant have even looked at the pictures because if he had he would have seen that it is a manual box attached to the engine.

That's pretty conclusive evidence really. lol

I'm sitting back quietly admiring the welding work . . . . pretty good stuff!

Yeah I figure masking tape will be strong enough to hold it together. Lol !

It would wont to be a manual?

i hop so two.

what breaks are you using?

Sorry Kurt.. Just teasing!

Lookin schmick there redliner!

SuFz :ninja:

Yeah I figure masking tape will be strong enough to hold it together. Lol !

Yep, should do! Maybe a bit of weld here and there might help though. lol

Re: suspension travel - if the front wheels move back as well as up on a bump/jump, won't that put your steering angles way off? (Just a thought.) Obviously depends on where the steering rack ends up located I imagine.

Yes Max, getting everything in the right place and working properly in my front end will be crucial and demand I work slowly and precisely. Some buggies guys I've spoken to here reckon the front wheels moving back a bit independently will probably increase steering effectiveness. All I know is I'm copying the front end of a buggy featured on the Edge Products site, and the vids of them on U-Tube show they go round corners fast on the dirt with those wheels moving back seperately from each other. Brakes? I'm gonna use TJ Magna front hubs and brakes, but run them backwards to the factory positioning for reasons I've explained earlier. Rear brakes are a bit trickier. Even though I'll install a rear brake bias adjuster they need to be smaller to avoid uncontrollable rear lock up. Plus I want to have handbrakes that work the calipers (for steering brakes). I can't put the Magna rear discs on the front hubs I'm using off the same wreck because they're entirely different, as you guys with more experience lookin' at them than me know all too well. One has a driveshaft gonig through it, and the other has a drum brake inside it for the factory hand brake. So I'll be hunting for a disc with the same stub pattern as the TJ with probably a solid disc and cables that work the calipers as well as hydraulics. Atr this stage with my knowledge of Hondas I'm guessing Prelude rear brakes - but I'll chase this later on.

This pic shows the second rear compulsory roof brace I needed to install going from the main hoop down to the hip rail. You can see how much tougher it makes the driver’s compartment than the old buggy frame I started with.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/25122011c.jpg
Once again I chose to add gusseting to make it even stronger which joins the brace into the diagonal within the main hoop, plus a tube triangulating the side hoop to the outer edge of than main hoop. Sorry about the masking tape – but it’s the only way I can keep fabricating before my welder and his MIG arrive without loose bits of steel falling on my head.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/25122011b006.jpg
I added a second gusset plate to tie the rear roof brace into two bars within the main hoop, each bar strengthening the other.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/25122011a005.jpg

Rear discs on a first gen are cable operated with the cable actuating the pads onto the disc, if that is any help. Those are 4 stud though.

The masking tape is a brilliant idea, you can check everything for fit before you commit to joining it together permanently. Probably don't even need to remove it before you weld. lol

Now for some lessons in steering geometry. A good friend of mine who’s built many race cars is following this build blog and rang to warn me of a problem to avoid. In a nutshell if I use Magna hubs in the front of my buggy by swapping the left to the right and vice versa because I’ll end up with Reverse Ackerman. His call reminded me of a Datsun Bluebird my brother in law bought that’d had a V8 swap done on it, and they’d had to swap the front uprights across so they could put a forward mounted steering rack in it to clear the block. I drove that car and it was WEIRD around corners. He had a wheel alignment done, they discovered Reverse Ackerman, so he sold the car asap. But what is it???

Ackermann steering geometry is an arrangement of linkages in the steering of a car designed to solve the problem of wheels on the inside and outside of a turn needing to trace out circles of different radius. The intention of it is to avoid the need for tyres to slip sideways when following the path around a curve. Ackermann steering geometry is made by moving the steering pivot points inward so as to lie on a line drawn between the steering kingpins and the centre of the rear axle. You can see from the following pic of the Magna front hubs I am using on the back, that if you put the steering rack in the front of the axle line you need your steering arm rack holes on the hubs to be CLOSER to the disc brakes, rather than angle away from thems.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1562.jpg

So what does this mean for my build? Basically to use a steering rack mounted forward of the front axle line means I’ll have to source a pair of front uprights from a road car of the same design, and with the Magna stud pattern of 5 x 114.3. Some likely candidates from my initial research suggests Mazda Rx7, Skyline R33 or R34, and Toyoata Hilux 2wd worth looking at in the metal.
Does anyone know if any of these cars have a forward mounted rack?

I cut more re-enforcing bars for the rollcage. Although these two going to the top outer edge of the main hoop aren’t compulsory why would you NOT have them? I’ve at last run out of steel to cut more framing until my steel merchant re-opens in the New Year, but I’m sure MIG man will be glad of that!
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1573.jpg

Hey Redliner. When your done with this build; would you mind smashing out another one for me? (for free of course)

I do recall the Toyota use a steering box on there utes it in front of steering mechanism.

rx7 and skyline are rear mounted racks

there is bugger all in the front. why not run rear mount rack? saves hassles

Does anyone know if any of these cars have a forward mounted rack?


not sure on those cars , but if you are sortof interested in a simple torsion bar design , look at a 1995 Mitsu Express van / Starwagon / Delica

rx7 and skyline are rear mounted racks

there is bugger all in the front. why not run rear mount rack? saves hassles

Because the driver sits further forward in the chassis in a mid-engined car there is no room in the footwell for both feet, pedals and a rack. This is common to most open wheelers and Clubmans too. So fitting everything in demands a forward mounted rack. The RX7 and R32/3's are rear mounted you say? Bugger.

Hey Redliner. When your done with this build; would you mind smashing out another one for me? (for free of course)

Sorry to disobey your "Don't quote me" mantra. Yes of course I'll make you another one in my spare time. Even had a good mate suggest I make them as kit chassis for sale. Like - hello - effort required... plus I'm trying to build something no-one else has got. Reality check??? He, he - but I appreciate your desire (as the actress said to the bishop). lol.

rx7 and skyline are rear mounted racks

there is bugger all in the front. why not run rear mount rack? saves hassles

My son races an RX7 series 6, and he's just sent me pics of the engine bay showing it has a FORWARD mounted rack - so he's gonna chase some uprights and brakes for me through his rice cooking forums.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/DSC_5378.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/DSC_2529.jpg

If you'd like to see HIS toy, here it is. It used to be black, but we put this colour & carbon on it using wrap. Cheaper and easier than a paint job, and you can change it when you get bored.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/kempsey1.jpg

ah there you go.. sorry forgot about the fd. was thinking early mazda.

does he want powersteering though?

ah there you go.. sorry forgot about the fd. was thinking early mazda.

does he want powersteering though?

I don't want power steering , but I'm not interested in the Mazda RX7 rack anyway - just the front suspension uprights and brakes. So it's all good.

Time to remove the rear steering rack and locate the tie rod ends. The other fwd power plants to rwd converted buggies I’d seen had all fastened the tie rod ends cut off from their redundant steering racks to their chassis. This requires exact locating, otherwise the car will steer itself as it rides up & down (bump steer). I would’ve done it the same way, except I was lucky enough to have a careful look two weeks ago at a brand new mid engined Clubman a club member had made for black top work. I’d already got a few innovative suspension ideas off his car as I walked around it at it’s debut. Then I saw he’d fastened his rear (non-steering) tie rod ends to the lower wishbones rather than the chassis. I instantly realised this was a much better method, because the tie rod arms would just move as part of the wishbone itself – eliminating any possibility of bumpsteer.
So the first thing I did was cut and shorten the tie rod arms off the rack, then I threaded them to take two large nuts.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/29122011001.jpg
Then I made a strong bracket to be welded onto the wishbone to which I could bolt the arms. I drilled a small hole in the arm ends to take a split pin as a failsafe. I’ll weld the outer nut and a big washer to the rod, and use a Nylock nut before the split pin on the inside.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/29122011003.jpg
Although not crucial, you can see from above that the rod lines up with where it used to attach to the steering rack, which has now been removed. And what a heavy cow it was too!
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/29122011005.jpg
Adjusting toe in and out on the rear will obviously be a cinch now.

I love this build thread

I have zero patience, I want to see the video of it belting up a dirt track from a standing start!

So do I !!

Reversing the Gearshift
One of the things that attracted me to the Magna for this build was that the gear shift linkages were cables – rather than rods. This makes re-positioning the gearstick in front of the mid-engined motor (compared to behind the donk in it’s factory fwd set up), much easier. The cable collars were mounted at the back of the motor near the flywheel – but if I used the stock position the cables would have to be significantly lengthened, and the gearstick would be on the wrong side of the cockpit. So I put the cables on the other side of the gearbox linkages, changing it from a push / pull setup to a pull / push one. I did this through some pivot arms I made and a couple of turn buckles left over from a landscaping job. This reversed the shift pattern… which is just what I wanted.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/gearshift003.jpg
Besides the cabling now going forward of the engine (instead of back), the cables would now enter the gearstick from behind it (rather than from the front). I spun the gearstick around the other way – two control reverses therefore retaining the normal shift pattern. Plus my cables won’t need lengthening.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/gearshifter002.jpg

Coming along nicely.

There you go Kurt, it's definitely a manual. (You can tell by looking at the gearstick) lol

TIG Man Starts
My son James has just bought and learnt to use a TIG welder for the construction we both do on our race cars. TIG welding is slower than MIG – but stronger and more suited to delicate jobs. So I took the gear shift linkages I’d cut and a few other bits over to him and away he went.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/1Jan003.jpg
Then it was back home to paint them with aerosol engine enamel. It needs no primer, is heat proof, and quick drying. By afternoon tea time I was able to assemble the welded linkage pieces and adjust them to clear where the chassis rail will go.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/1Jan004.jpg
I also re-fitted a couple of engine brackets I’d lightened and painted as well.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/1Jan005.jpg
If I’m lucky MIG man will turn up tomorrow and we can get into welding the main pieces of the chassis together.

Cool!
I guess from the looks of that bypass hose you don't intend to use the heater!
Same for the air con compressor I imagine - how are you arranging the alternator drive?

coming along nicely, cant wait to see it finished

I'll fit a shorter belt, but because it'll go round the tensioning pulley on the grooved side of the belt rather than the flat side I'll have to also change that pulley from a flat one to a grooved one. I'm still toying with having power assisted brakes though, as that'd only require a long air hose from the engine, past the driver, to the pedals. But we'll see.

A tip for you on the EGR side of things. Find a TE-TF at the wreckers and grab the blanking plate then the EGR valve, the vac line, EGR solenoid, and associated gear can be removed, as well as the EGR pipe (this uses an internal channel to the valve so is fine if it is open).

I imagine you will need to make a new set of brake lines. Why not skip the brake booster, and seeing the weight distribution of this beast is in reverse to the normal Magna, run the front circuit to the rear brakes. Trial and error here.

I will not be using the Magna front brakes at the rear of the car as I need to incorporate steering brakes there for racing. I want to use a brake caliper that has a secondary handbrake mechanism in it, so I'm looking to pop on Prelude 5 stud solid rear discs with it's Honda hydraulics that meets this criteria. In racing -especially on the dirt - it's all about front brakes really. I've got Mazda Rx7 series 6 front uprights (forward rack arms), coming - and these just also happen to have bloody gigantic four pot vented discs on them - which will give me more stopping power than I'll need. I'll run the brake lines in front to back pairs rather than as a diagonal setup, and install a Willwood rear bias adjuster so I can quickly get the balance right as I've done in my V6 Civic.

Smart, very smart.

I just watched today's Dakar and saw lots of vehicles with their front struts leaning back and the wheel going back as it went up. They're called motorbikes.

'After TIG son welded the sleeves for the new bolt holes in the cross member that goes under the engine and holds the front mount, I was able to fabricate the plates that'll hold it in place for a drop out fit.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/DSC_00241.jpg

And Life??? This one's just for you buddy after you got me thinking.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/DSC_00261.jpg

Metaland were the only steel merchants open in Newcastle today, so I got some more tubing. I remembered they were expensive, but they charge like a Malaysian hostess you're buying drinks for ! I was able to start on the side wheel protection bars, but can't really do much more until MIG man comes over.

Look What Turned Up Today
My son James picked up these Mazda RX7 series 8 front hubs and brakes in Sydney and dropped them off. They are HUGE, with FOUR pot calipers. Tons of grip here, and you can see how readily the hubs will bolt into the double wishbones I’ll make. Nice and short too, being only 20cm high from the top to bottom joint. This measurement determines the distance between the inner mounting points for both upper and lower wishbones on the front chassis, so I am well pleased.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/frontstruts001.jpg
These were in a front mounted steering rack like my design, and if you compare the angles of the steering arms on my previous pic of the Magna hubs to these the difference is obvious, as is that I will have no reverse Ackerman using these babies.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/frontstruts003.jpg
My 12 1/2 inch steering wheel also turned up - just $35 on E-bay. I think we can thank compulsory airbags in road cars for this price plummet.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/frontstruts004.jpg

Positioning the front hubs
On the second last day of my annual leave I unbolted the four pot calipers and discs off the Mazda RX7 hubs. This made them a lot lighter and easier to handle, and with coach screws I was able to screw them to the construction floor on the wheel base line.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/7Jan001.jpg
Holding them in place this way is going to make measuring up for the pilot wishbones a lot easier.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/7Jan002.jpg
I’d bent the front lower half of the bullbar that’ll also hold the first piece of the front floor, so I cut the skid plate for it out of 3mm sheet which will be welded to it.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/7Jan005.jpg

Coming along nicely.
Annual leave ending, you say? Late nights and week end work from now on? Should slow things down a bit. I found that a project car waiting for you at home makes the work day go much quicker, something to look forward to. Good luck with it anyway.

Thanks Max. By the way I've just been informed I've screwed those uprights upside down. Dddooohhhhh !

The hubs DO look better the right way up!

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/022.jpg

Drilling out the seat front cross member

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/018.jpg

Do you buy your holesaws in bulk?

No - I told the guy in the shop I wanted to drill holes all day in 3mm steel. This one cost me $24 for the saw and $30 for the quick change over shank, and it's eating along just fine.

I saved a runner out of the Magna so I could easily adjust the seat in Raptor, and you can see where Tig-son welded in the cross member I made, after which I gave it a coat of rust proof paint.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1645.jpg
You can see how this seat mounts in position, and I’ll make a carbon fibre version this weekend or the next.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1646.jpg
I also lightened and painted the gearshift mechanism.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1647.jpg

Are you saving up all your holesaw circles in a bucket to weigh how much you shaved off at the end? That many holes is dedication... I hate using holesaws.

lol...needs a short shift....love this thread

Wow you must be really bored and love your drill press :)

Wow you must be really bored and love your drill press :)

Not really, all in the name of weight loss.

Bored?? Of COURSE I'm bored when I'm not racing!! The holes are also about style - which is pretty difficult to get into a buggy. I can't explain the petrol head fascination with them (myself included). If we look at a race car with steel brackets on it we don't really notice them. But if someone's drilled holes in them we "ooohhh" and "aaahh" and point them out to our mates as if they were as special as a NOS kit. We're a weird bunch aren't we? I think we just take them as attention to detail in a build that makes us think more highly of it. I hope I'm not wrong lol! And yes - my garage floor is LITTERED in 27mm "coins", together with a mountain of steel shavings. anyone walking in with a magnet at present would be buried!

Also, the holes provide essential ventilation for everything. Lets fresh air in, sand, dust and water out. So they are essential for a buggy. Less weight = better acceleration, better jumps. Win/win in my book.

. . . . just be careful with that magnet . . . . .them coins have sharp edges . . . . . .

I know why your doing I was poking a bit of fun :/ Everybody take me to seriously lol

I would love to see a RWD manual version of your buggy with the Magna motor. You would never be able to keep the thing straight! :-)

This is a RWD manual buggy, at least every neuron I have says so.

i would love to see a rwd manual version of your buggy with the magna motor. You would never be able to keep the thing straight! :-)

...lol

More like i'd like to see a fwd, automatic version of your buggy. Oh wait that wouldn't be very fun. haha

I would love to see a RWD manual version of your buggy with the Magna motor. You would never be able to keep the thing straight! :-)

Engine in the back, driving the rear wheels. So it's RWD, with a layout not unlike a 1964 Volkswagen. lol

Not nitpicking, I just don't quite know the answer. Is a the Beetle a rear engine RWD and this buggy a mid mounted engine RWD?

Controversy, controversy! Facts: Both the VW and this thing are rwd because the rear wheels are driven. Who woulda thunk it? But the VW, Porsches,etc are rear engined because the motor hangs out behind the rear axle. "Raptor" is mid engined, because the donk is in front of the rear axle (like MGF, Toyota MR2, Ferraris, Ford GT40 (now we're talkin'), and top fuel drag cars. Of course when I drive it backwards it'll be a mid engined. front wheel drive buggy, rather than a front engined, front wheel drive car (like the Mini, Golf and all those people movers today. WRX and the like are front engined 4wd. What no-one has yet built is a mid-engined 4wd car.... although as soon as I post that here I bet some car geek proves me wrong.

Confused? I know I am! Hmm then again - maybe next build I'll take a rear engined rwd car, swap the mechanicals to the front, and make it a.... oh who cares!

I would love to see a RWD manual version of your buggy with the Magna motor. You would never be able to keep the thing straight! :-)

its a buggy dude. they very rarely run straight.. mostly sideways lol

Google tells me that the group B Ford RS200 was mid-mounted awd and then the obvious ones hit me, recent lambo's and the audi R8

Many class B rally monsters were mid mounted AWD. Metro 6R4 was a V6 AWD, Peugeot 205 T16, Lancia Delta S4.

What no-one has yet built is a mid-engined 4wd car.... although as soon as I post that here I bet some car geek proves me wrong.

oh who cares!

I'm not a car geek, but various Lamborghinis and the derivitatve Audi R8 are AWD/4WD.

In my VW buggy I reversed the engine to make it mid mounted. You can swap the diff over to reverse the drive with VWs, but instead I got a set of reduction drop hubs from a Kombi to lower the gearing and make it go forward with 4 gears.

Loving this build,
Steve

When I am a rich man I will make "Is this too wild of a magna build for you Version 2!!!"

I was reading about the STP turbine cars in the mid to late 60's. Can anyone say Magna wagon with a 500kW gas turbine in the back :D

Now back to our scheduled topic

I'm not a car geek, but various Lamborghinis and the derivitatve Audi R8 are AWD/4WD.

In my VW buggy I reversed the engine to make it mid mounted. You can swap the diff over to reverse the drive with VWs, but instead I got a set of reduction drop hubs from a Kombi to lower the gearing and make it go forward with 4 gears.

Loving this build,
Steve

So if we don't call you a geek Steve, how do we name tag someone who's used a Gene Berg type 1970's Baja Buggy axle swap? Pantsman I'm not rich either.... just got rid of all my kids!

So if we don't call you a geek Steve, how do we name tag someone who's used a Gene Berg type 1970's Baja Buggy axle swap?

I made a decision years ago to play with my bikes instead of cars. Cheaper and more accessable for me. Built my own bike chassis years ago, a monocoque in the 1970s, which was a bit radical then, and perhaps still is. Had a R100 with ported 12A and 5sp, 4 wheel discs and significantly upgraded suspension. It was my only car for 17 years. Had to go when the 2nd kid came along. Twas not without regrets.

Bit off topic, but this has been my latest project FWIW http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=646076 something to go adventuring anywhere in relative comfort and be reliable. Much fun and retains my licence.

Steve

this is going to fly along :)

Time to make myself a copy of this seat I made a fibreglass mould of a few years ago. It’ll be my first attempt at carbon fibre.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1649.jpg
Not too difficult a material to work with. Has it’s own peculiarities, but easier and nowhere near as much mess as fibreglass. But it’s strong. When I came back after lunch to trim the job it’d glued itself to my makeshift table and really didn’t wanna part with it! I’ll leave it overnight to gain maximum strength, and flip it out of the mould tomorrow.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/IMG_1652.jpg

will there be a need to bake the carbon fibre when its done, or will the resin be enough?

I work in the fibreglass wholesale supply industry, and IMHO there is no more mis-used material than carbon fibre, and none with more myths attached to it.... particularly in the custom automotive world. The strength comes not from the fibres used, but the resin or epoxy and how it's mixed. Vacuum bagging and baking are the realm of the aircraft and racing yacht industries where there is an obsession with minimum weight and maximum strength. As far as curing goes putting your job out in the sun or outside in a black plastic bag will do for most of us mere mortals - or just waiting a few days. Hardly a day goes by when I don't sell resin or cloth to someone who's come up with a totally unique application for these materials. Last week a guy came in who wanted to make a carbon fibre guitar. How do I advise him on THAT??? The ingenuity of man is amazing.

Remember fibreglass itself was discovered by accident in a lab where they'd spilt resin onto glass scrap on the floor. When they couldn't remove it with a chisel the next day someone thought "Hey!" FYI carbon fibre may well be on the way out before long, superceded by a new super fabric called "INNEGRA" which is stronger, lighter, and as cheap as fibreglass. You heard it here first.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjJzAZHYO8o

FYI carbon fibre may well be on the way out before long, superceded by a new super fabric called "INNEGRA" which is stronger, lighter, and as cheap as fibreglass.

But is it as pretty as carbon?

Hello carbon fibre body panels... fashioned lovingly in my back shed.

But is it as pretty as carbon?

See what I mean? In the street scene c/fibre is more about looks than practicalities. I knew a woman like that once, but she thought I was a dag.

Sandwhich foam core, carbon fibre Guitar/Bass cabs are awesome!

Standard plywood 810 cabinet unloaded 23kg

Foam core carbon fibre 810 cabinet unloaded 9kg

FYI carbon fibre may well be on the way out before long, superceded by a new super fabric called "INNEGRA" which is stronger, lighter, and as cheap as fibreglass. You heard it here first.Got any in individual strands rather than woven? Wouldn't mind experimenting with a polypro strand reinforcement for something I'm working on... if it's near-transparent in resin.

I work in the fibreglass wholesale supply industry, and IMHO there is no more mis-used material than carbon fibre, and none with more myths attached to it.... particularly in the custom automotive world. The strength comes not from the fibres used, but the resin or epoxy and how it's mixed.

Not ready to agree with you. I also worked for many years with glass fabric and other materials. Resin is of great importance. However, under other equal conditions, carbon fiber gives maximum strength. Accordingly, the details can be made thinner and lighter. If for the strength of the seat for example to 6-7 layers of fiberglass, carbon fiber should be 2-3 layers. About the plastic bags I was silent. I use carbon and kevlar. For example, in the second photo, carbon tissue is absolutely not afraid of fire. Of this fabric are doing nozzle jet engines for missiles. Try to do it with a plastic bag heh-heh-heh. Kevlar is a good material, but it does not stand up to such a temperature. But it is more flexible. You can also use the combined material carbon-kevlar.http://s018.radikal.ru/i522/1201/cc/5ddb486447da.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru)http://i076.radikal.ru/1201/85/e246abe1ff27.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru)

Thixotropic resin gives a good result. Dries 20 minutes.

Thanks for the info guys. Now we all have no reason to not try laminating cloth in resin ourselves.

Here’s the finished product next to a fibreglass one I made a while ago. The results speak for themselves!
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/19jan12006copy.jpg

Wow! This is a bright example of the difference in weight.

Did you vacuum bag it?

No. I haven't got the skills, equipment or need to do that production level yet. It was just hand laid, and I'm uploading a video of me making it to U-Tube as I write this.

The weak link is the resin. The technology of vacuum forming is very good, you have to master it. This technology will allow to reduce the content of the resin. Weight of the product get 2 - 2.5 kg. It is not difficult and requires a minimum of equipment.

Here's my U-tube film showing the making of this seat using very basic techniques you can use in any garage http://youtu.be/U13Bb4rTGPs

Mig man came over today and we tacked the driver’s cockpit together and fully welded the underside of the floor.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/5thJan011.jpg

The front half of the frame isn’t as heavy as a few feared. Dave & I reckon it’s around 30kg. Compare that to how much heavier a VW floor pan would be. It feels incredibly strong thanks to all the triangulation, gussets and required bracing – even though it’s only tacked lightly at this stage.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/5thJan013.jpg

Now I can sit in it and – more importantly – haul my backside out of it now it’s held together by more than masking tape! Talk about being inside a steel cocoon. I was also able to accurately work out the height I want the bar that holds the steering wheel to be, meaning I can cut several bars that relate to this point.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/5thJan014.jpg

Mate this is amazing work, well done. Thing should be an absolute rocket! Great stress release in a big open paddock aswell! Good work and good luck with it all.

Thanks for the encouragement. I'll need this new toy for stress relief as I've just sold my previous build. I'm the fat guy in the black hood.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIZ0oVZ4TXQ

Cant wait to see this thing fully built. Please do keep the updates coming. Really, really good stuff. I think the magna engine is going to be perfect for this.

Tonight I cut the new stay between the front hoops, out of the larger steel required than what was in the frame I cannabalised. Then I started on the two bars that’ll go down from it’s ends to the front bullbar, resulting in a wedge shaped nose that I really like.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/6Feb002.jpg
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/6Feb001.jpg
Test fitting revealed the Magna seat runners put the seat up a bit too high, so I’ve ditched having an adjustable seat and will weld in some 30mm angle that it can bolt straight onto. Playing around with the positioning of the gearstick it looks like I’ll have to relocate one of the small triangulation bars (tacked on either side of the steering wheel), to clear the gear knob. No worries. There’s enough re-enforcement there for a Dubai sky scraper!
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/6Feb006.jpg
This last pic shows how the front mount bar that runs under the engine will bolt up to the rear of the chassis, and probably where the gear shift cables will run.
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/6Feb008.jpg

I had the rack & pinion temporarily screwed up high on a raised timber block, but when I started looking at cutting the cross bar to hold it I realised it needed to be almost on the bottom of the chassis, for two reasons. The steering arms on my RX7 series 7 front uprights are on the bottom of those hubs, plus the chassis bottom rail is rising at that point under the Rhino nose. So a bit of decent angle welded just above the skid plate should be all that’s needed to hold the steering gear in place. The positioning of the rack front to back was determined by putting it’s ends a distance equal to the length of the steering arms.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/10Feb12019.jpg

The two new short uprights I added into the side of the front framing are the vertical line at which the front of the top and bottom front inner wishbones will be mounted. Having an upright at that point adds strength exactly where it’s really needed, and gives me some flexibility if I need to mount either pivot point off the main top or bottom chassis rails. The diagonal going back down from the top of it completes the new front end tie in.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/10Feb12023.jpg

cant wait to see it running :D

Having the front frame tacked together has allowed me to start cutting the pieces that will hold the steering rack and column. Room had to be left around the rack ends to ensure the tie rods won’t hit the frame as the suspension rides up and down. Dave made a great suggestion from his speedway experience – put steel straps right around the rack body rather than just rely on the alloy brackets on it to hold it under the high stresses of racing. I intend heeding his advice. Meantime I screwed and taped the bars I cut in place.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/11Feb002.jpg

When I tried the steering column that came with the rack I found it too long. I couldn’t shorten the rod between the rack and the column as this would have made the angles too sharp. Instead, I shortened the column itself, which came apart and lended itself to this reduction. I also had to cut off the factory mounting brackets for it and make new ones. Here’s all the pieces ready to go to my TIG welding son, but I might change the top of the shaft to a Honda one if Dave has a spare, as it is proving difficult to obtain a Boss steering wheel mounting kit for this Renault shaft.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/11Feb001.jpg

This third pic shows how I’ve now mounted the seat without the Magna runners, and how I’ve been just able to squeeze in the factory gear changer with a bit of a nick & tuck.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/RAPTOR%20BUILD/11Feb003.jpg

I've made a start on the bodywork http://youtu.be/JMPkk6UHY-Y

Love the spoiler mate!

You sir are a gentleman and a scholar!

That is an amazing video..

Great build.. Great videos.. Amazing work!

SuFz

In this next stage on my continuing offroad buggy build I make a custom bonnet from scratch out of carbon fibre, which could also be made out of fibreglass:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCPxwIL4MXA

Part 1 of my V6 Mid engined buggy build - getting the donor car and making the chassis

http://youtu.be/jCzZmfM_aAQ

Is it going to be awesome like this?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=GzXVLbs41Ew#

Absolutely not Dave. Can't see the sense in spending thousands on a mega heavy duty rollcage and then not wearing a crash helmet as you mow down trees effortlessly. Those Yankee beasts evolved from slow rock crawlers into extremely expensive impossible obstacle climbers. Fun to watch. Sorta like a Tonka toy on steroids? Way outta my humble budget and an "entirely different kind of flying altogether". My project will be used to race at high speed on smooth forest rally roads & tracks. Horses for courses. lol

Part 2 of my V6 Buggy build - making the Kevlar floor & the rear skid plate

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YakJmqz-gsM&feature=youtu.be

Part 2 video of the build http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VI6UoqP6T1o&list=UU2eM7ZuCPfXTAgbKOpuIaIg&index=1&feature=plcp

That buggy is looking great. Are you going to leave the anti sway bar in the back end?

Yes. I'll leave it in and see how the suspension performs. Lotsa testing ahead once the car runs.

Is it going to be awesome like this?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=GzXVLbs41Ew#

Thats is extremely cool but i vote it has atleast 10x more power then it really needs to do what it is doing but its is a monster.

Keep it up dude your builds are great and your videos are insane..:)

There's a word to describe those American specialised rock crawlers with the cage on the outside.... UGLY! If you wanna see truly AWESOME offroad go anywhere vehicles, twin turbo V8's, 4wd, paddle tyres, nos, etc. check this out... but be warned... it's addictive to watch! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VlI66PW2Vvw&feature=relmfu

Part 4 video: Front suspension mounts and making a fibreglass fuel tank

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BR8WrcZSzX0&feature=youtu.be

[QUOTE=Dave;1480415]Is it going to be awesome like this?

I'm a gonna say that beast was unbelievable - helmet/roofguard or not! I mean there are different forms of art (and driver foolishness in his case) :woot:

Steve

Yeah - unbelievable he drives it with no crash helmet on himself or his passenger - and there's no protective plate on the roof. Now Steve can we leave this car behind up so you're not high jacking my thread?

Fabulous work so far Redliner! I'd have to say the 3.5lts are a perfect engine for this sorta work. You're giving me bad ideas! hahaha!

Part 5 video - Front suspension mounts & rear brakes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aH6EEjzmOYM

This build is epic, just read the entire thread from start to end.
Love your use of the marked out board/floor to square everything, and love the whole "build on a budget" concept.
Just watched a few of your YouTubes, these are great, well presented and informative, keep it up!
When is your expected completion date?

Now Steve can we leave this car behind up so you're not high jacking my thread?

Sure - I have now edited my post to remove the video link. Apologies; I am new to the Forum and had not seen that it was going to post with King EGO's video link in it for a 2nd time. Then I had not noticed your comment for quite a while; finally I had not seen the Edit link. :tired:

Now - since i have corrected my post - can you edit your post regarding the whole issue thanks?

Steve

Relax Steve - I'm not THAT worried about it. Looks like we share atype of best friend: http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/0buthonda/30July023_zps197efb1b.jpg


Cashie when it's ready it's ready. I'd like to race it this year but two things are probably gonna make that difficult. Firstly the suspension units I want will cost me $2,500 to import from the USA (I could spend a LOT more). Had about 1/2 of the $$$ then lost me job. Mortgage. Pour saving down drain & wince. Secondly we're looking to sell up & relocate a house to the country. so I'm going hard trying to get the car off the table so it's a roller, whilst I cast a horrified eye over my 4 car garage & the parts I need to go sort, pack, & move. But I WILL get Raptor finished, even if it's not till later in the year than I would've liked, because I am enjoying the build so much. At least now I have the time to do a bit each day... along with getting the house ready for sale.

Part 6 - Fabricating the Front Wishbones

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMu-606UUPU

I need to stop watching your videos, they keep giving me expensive ideas! Looks like it progressing nicely.

Remaking the front wishbones & how I mark round steel tube for fabrication notching - Part 7

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqqLhgVr070&list=UU2eM7ZuCPfXTAgbKOpuIaIg&index=1

Your build is still epic, I spend a couple of hours watching your YouTubes the the day, some great stuff...
Loved the race car series and the H22 swap, shame you are unable to continue it.

But the owner will.

It's off the build table - rolling just in time for my house move Part 8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ydE3nmVb93k

Hey Redliner, i'm currently racing class 5 in off road racing (go the tin tops) with my dad
We've recently been talking about building a mid engined buggy going off the same principal as you have, a front wheel drive motor transplanted into the back of a frame.
just a few quick questions before we're fully convinced, how much travel do you plan to get using the original driveshafts? and do you think the stock ones will be strong enough?
it will be good t see how the final build comes out :)

Unfortunately Mr Red Liner hasn't been on this forum for a while - check the date on his last post - so your questions are likely to go unanswered.

He has lots of videos on youtube, you may find one that shows his email address and you could try to contact him that way.

thanks MadMax, figured it was worth a try anyway

For anyone interested, there's Part 9 of this on build on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CMI9ODEyes

Love your work! If only fitting headers to a Magna was as easy as that huh?

Redliner, I've been watching your videos for ages, especially loved the rally magna! Didn't realize you were on here until now

Keep up the great work mate, can't wait to see it in action!

After 8 months living in a caravan park with everything in storage I'moved onto the acreage where I'm building my own home by myself. Being in the country it's taken another 6 months to get the internet connected - but I am BACK!!

Deacs having caned the living daylights out of the stock Magna driveshafts in rallying the heavy TJ I have no doubts at all they'll be aply strong enough in a car reduced from a 1400kg sedan to a 650kg spaceframe offroader. I won't know how much rear travel I have until I get the expensive coil/shocks I'm saving for, but I think it won't be long travel to the normal buggy degree. This won't be a problem for me because I'll only be running it on fairly smooth forest tracks which are quite often graded.

holy shit!!!
What a build!!!

your part about how to cut pipes in part 7 was really good, i used to do it that way for a while until i found this gem of knowledge.
http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

You'll love it, trust me, you'll just wish you found it earlier :D

Cant wait to see more updates.

good to see this thread is still going!
have you thought about trying to extend the driveshafts?
a lot of the fancy ass buggies running up at sealake and the finke two weeks ago were wide as all hell.
plus gives you extra width for stability and more travel

Deacs as with all original buggy scratch builds there are always gonna be some aspects of how your creation works that will suprise you, and other aspects that will need modification or be limiting once the car is driven. I'm obviously a long way off that point. I don't want any more track on the rear than I have now as some of the courses we run near Sydney are extremely narrow with big stumps ready to rip off anyone's rear suspension who drifts a little too wide.

Here's Part 10 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnnLcP36ZGw&list=UU2eM7ZuCPfXTAgbKOpuIaIg&index=5

& Part 11 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEgDwI57Diw&list=UU2eM7ZuCPfXTAgbKOpuIaIg

Part 12 video of the build: Adapting the Magna factory loom into the offroad buggy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHs8Kn_zlbY&feature=youtu.be

Brilliant brilliant! I hope I have this much time on my hands to do crazy stuff like this when I'm your age!

I had forgotten about this thread. Time to do some catching up.

Having this sort of stuff to do is precisely what keeps you active in retirement, although it's certainly slower when the $$$ stops.

Your a machine.. I sat and watched most of your youtube videos the other nite. The brick BBQ has inspired me.:) Love the progress on the house too. Keep it up.:)

Part 13 of the build https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m95foil2upo&feature=youtu.be

More greatness. Maybe you shouldn't go out picking roses and then nothing will happen to your project..:)

Hurry up with the next video. I'm hanging for more over here. :)

You have inspired me so much I've started a welding course to increase my skills.:)

Maybe I should do likewise! Next build video should be posted this weekend which shows how to build a car body out of foam rubber !!

Hi bill. Love the thread. Is it possible to make the running gear LSD or locker? I am planing a similar build for a 2 seat shooting rig and would like the extra traction.

Remember watching your Magna dirt car videos way before I joined AMC, awesome work!

Quite nice idea to make a roadster out of trash and junk. !!!
- Hats off