Got my oil done with Havoline high mile, and I'm guessing its my lifter's knocking, but for literally about 5-10 seconds on startup I get this knock, then it goes away. Anything possibly going bad?
And I checked my transmission fluid yesterday, because I had thrown some in because my transmission felt weird (disc'd battery for amp install, just seemed like it wasn't learning) and it had lots of bubbles in it.
And I think I shouldn't touch fuses anymore :P (which is another reason I think the transmission was acting up.) Because there's 4 fuses outside of the interior fuse box. I pulled them cause we popped a fuse, thinking it was just extra's. Horn didn't work, so I threw a fuse in that one, and then the other one I was thinking must've been something with the transmission computer(is there one?).
And does anyone have a good trick for passenger side(For your car's) fan on the radiator, my motor is going bad on it (sounds horrible turning off, doesn't cool car right.) Just to make it go away until I can find a good replacement?

Did a little bit of searching, but I have to go to work. Don't have much time to sit on the computer anymore. I used to sit on this forum looking at stuff for hours :P.
Oh and is there any direct replacement for the bulbs on the climate control? Like how it twist's in like the current ones do.
Any tricks for the plastic as well (scratches, etc.)?
Sorry for all the questions :P, feel free to answer whichever ones that there isn't already an answer on this forum for.

-edit-
And now that I think of it, I don't think it was Mits fluid. I just went to the auto shop and asked for "tranny fluid for my 01 diamante."

Hi. One of your problems could be the valve lifters. I had the same issue on a AU Ford that knocked for a few seconds on startup up but went away when car warmed up.

Lots of magnas do it, especially on cold mornings. If you turned the engine off then started it again, you'll find there is no noise. It's all good

I had someone tell me its to do with the oil pick up or something like that. When the car is cold, oil in the engine drains down to the sump meaning the amount of oil in the heads is lower. Then on start up, until the oil pump works, pumps oil up top, you may get a rattle etc.

Thats why people recommend Magnatec, so that the oil sticks to the top parts of the engines for cold starts.

Not sure if people beleive this or not, but either way, thats how I had it explained. Not trying to give a technical answer, just another opinion on this.

Boosty

I really would not recommend Magnatec.
I made the mistake last year in changing to it. Almost immediately oil consumption went up.
Mal has made previous comments that it seems to create more varnish on the valve stem seals.

I would recommend that you buy some engine flush additive, follow the instructions. Then refill with Penrite HPR10.

My car has now done 160,000 kms, with Magnatec had lifter noise after start up. Now Ok.
Oil consumption much improved. Almost no smoke after idling the engine for a few minuted then driving away. I.e. Typical Sydney traffic light delay.

Gerry

Magnatec is an awful oil

Wow guys didn't expect that response at all. Hmm food for thought then.

My car looses 0 oil, dipstick is always full and only done 100,000 km's and serviced every 7,500 km's.

Boost

Wow guys didn't expect that response at all. Hmm food for thought then.

My car looses 0 oil, dipstick is always full and only done 100,000 km's and serviced every 7,500 km's.

Boost

Yeah its marketing that impresses you, when in actual fact the varnish in magnatec has been known to cause big end failure in 6g74 motors.

I also went from previously using 5w-20 like the manual tells me. To what they put in, don't know if I wrote it but it was 10w-30. And temps can get as low as 30F (don't know what the celcius is on that my iPod can't double tab. Was castrol half synthetic high mileage.

Is the noise lifters definately or could it be the timing belt tensioner?

edit-also if anyone remembers the red TR 2.6 smoke machine (not from the tyres) at the MMX tailem bend day, that was running (out of) magnatec... I had just changed it the night before =|

Could be the tensioner.sounds more towards that now I think of it.

On a side note, I do need a new belt.
Hey on my fan prob, will I be hurting the motor too much just disconnecting it until I get a new one?
Need brakes too :P. And prob a bunch of other stuff.
Someone was telling me the water pump, but I actually think it's cause my fan just isn't efficiently cooling. But my engine temp would go up about 1-2 bars when idle.

But I managed to use meguiars plastix and fixed my scratches on my climate control little plastic overlay :D, most of them at least.

Whats Mitsubishis standard oil then, ie brand and is it any good also?

I've got 2,000 km's left of this service so next one I'll change to something like Penrite that your all suggesting.

"Could be the tensioner.sounds more towards that now I think of it. "

If the noise started immediately after the oil change, I tend to suspect the oil. The timing belt tensioner has nothing to do with oil used in the engine (not on a Gen 3 engine anyway).

It didn't start directly after. I want to actually say maybe a thousand miles after I changed it. But it is getting cold here as well. When my engine coldish one time I turned my wheel all the way to where it stopped and the belt started continuously squealing.
Once it warmed up it was fine.