guys, i just want a quick verification on this. i have a good, near new passenger and drivers side set of drive shafts from an auto. now i have a TF magna 3.0l with manual conversion, the mentioned drive shafts are from my auto after my conversion. the question is this, if i swap over the two intermediate drive shafts, can i re-use my good CV shafts from my auto.


any help will be appreciated guys :)

Intermediate Shaft is different between 3.0/3.5/5sp auto/4sp auto/manual (5 variations)
Driveshafts are the same length between 4sp auto/manual, but different thickness between 3.0/3.5 (Using one of each will induce unbalanced diff load and torque steer)

Ok, well my auto I had in was 4 speed 3.0l, the manual box I have in now is a 3.0l box. So if I put my manual intermediate drive shaft on my auto cv shaft this will bolt straight in to my 3.0l manual box? . By the way, I'm talking about the shaft between gearbox and cv shaft on the drivers side, apparently they are different lengths between auto and manual .

Correct, the driveshafts are the same between 4sp auto/5sp manual. Just the intermediate shafts are different.

So all I got to do is swap over intermediate drive shafts and all will be good? And thanks so much for your quick reply

Intermediate Shaft is different between 3.0/3.5/auto/manual (4 variations)
Driveshafts are the same length between 4sp auto/manual, but different thickness between 3.0/3.5 (Using one of each will induce unbalanced diff load and torque steer)
Passenger side driveshaft length is different between 4sp auto and 5sp auto.

Again how wrong is this information....sigh

The 3.0 auto and 3.5 auto 4sp are identical intermediate shafts, the bearing carrier is the only thing different and about 10 minutes of work fixes that

The manual intermediate shaft is slightly shorter

The 5sp auto intermediate shaft is different in so far as it has a larger spline/more teeth

LHS shaft for 4 sp and 5 sp auto does not matter a crap as the inner joint is totally different and can not be changed over anyway

In the OP you are not very clear

The LHS has only a shaft, no intermediate shaft

The RHS has an intermediate shaft and a drive shaft.

You can use all of the drive shafts from any 4sp auto on a manual, you can not without proper modification use the auto one, and no chopping 6mm off the end is not proper modification

Yeah, sorry madmagna for not being too clear about this, hard to explain in text what I was really wanting, so ill quote off of some of the stuff you have said. I want to reuse my RHS auto drive shaft as it is near new. Now my manual RHS drive shaft is cactus, can I take the intermediate shaft off it and put it on the auto drive shaft and bolt this straight in to the car with no hiccups ?

Once again, thanks for the replys guys

Yes you can

the 2 actual drive shafts are the same, it is only the intermediate shaft that differs

This thing about thicker and thinner shafts, again a load of trash, I am yet to see 2 different aftermarket shafts that are identical. Now while on a race track or perhaps on a regular drag situation you would want to match things up, on the road is not an issue even if someone does drive like a douche bag all the time lol

Again how wrong is this information....sigh

The information relative to this topic I provided is that the 4sp automatic shafts will fit the manual transmission and manual intermediate shaft with no worries, and mixing/matching 3.0/3.5 shafts will cause an imbalance.

Please tell me where I went wrong. I've edited my post as mentioning something not even relevant to the topic appears to have confused you.

Thanx mal for the reply, it saves me throwing away perfectly good drive shafts , and saves me a little money as well

The information relative to this topic I provided is that the 4sp automatic shafts will fit the manual transmission and manual intermediate shaft with no worries, and mixing/matching 3.0/3.5 shafts will cause an imbalance.

Please tell me where I went wrong. I've edited my post as mentioning something not even relevant to the topic appears to have confused you.

Confused no, frustrated at again incorrect information yes. It is great you wish to assist people but giving incorrect information does not assist, it only confuses

Intermediate Shaft is different between 3.0/3.5/auto/manual (4 variations)
There are 2 shafts between these, 3.0 and 3.5 are the same intermediate shaft, just a different bearing carries. A 3.0 carrier can be modified to fit a 3.5. Why is this so bad, there may be others who are after a shaft, read this, throw out what they have and pay to get another when their original shaft could have been used.

Driveshafts are the same length between 4sp auto/manual, but different thickness between 3.0/3.5 (Using one of each will induce unbalanced diff load and torque steer)
Really, so what you are saying is that if you replace a single shaft you will need to replace both with identical shafts as most aftermarket are different to OEM and add to this, on the street I would challenge anyone to notice even a slight difference.

Passenger side driveshaft length is different between 4sp auto and 5sp auto.
Again, this is not quite right, the main difference is the inner joint, the outer joint is the same.

Edit: What is the 'proper' modification to make a 4sp auto intermediate shaft work in a manual? Do we have an idea of cost?

Thanks.

I have a 3.0L 4sp auto, and i want to put a 3.0L manual box in, will the drive shafts from the 4sp auto be fine/ fit in the 3.0L manual box?

drive shafts will fit, but on the drivers side there is an intermediate shaft that conects to the drive shaft, and slides in to the manual box. you will need this intermediate shaft from a manual 3.0l box as the auto intermediate shaft does not fit in to the manual box

right, and im guessing the intermediate shaft is the one that is bolted to the block with an idler bearing?

right, and im guessing the intermediate shaft is the one that is bolted to the block with an idler bearing?

that is correct, ive done what you want to do on my car already. the manual drive shafts from the donar car was buggered, and my auto ones was good, so just swapped intermediate drive shafts because my auto drive shafts were good. saves money too

You can swap the auto driveshafts with the manual intermediate shaft but you will need a press to separate and reattach the shafts.

When I did my conversion I was lucky a mate of mine recently bought a press and we were able to remove the driverside driveshaft from the bearing carrier and the intermediate shaft.

Because you're doing using a 3L manual gearbox and mating to a 3L engine, the intermediate shaft & bearing carrier will bolt straight up. Otherwise the 3.5L has a different bearing carrier.

If the donor manual car's intermediate shaft is stuffed then you can use an auto one provided you shave off a bit off the end. If you need to then have this done by a professional, although some members in this thread (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88338&daysprune=-1#post1396758) have done it themselves.

You can't just shave 5mm off one end ffs. Please don't give advice when you have not done this

The manual and auto intermediate shafts are different length. The auto one can be modified to fit but is a little more involved

Makes sfa difference between 3.0 and 3.5 box. It is the motor that matters. The 3.0 bearing carrier can be modified to fit the 3.5 block if you know how as well

Go and buy new MANUAL drive shafts like i did.

Only $240 for the pair brand new

Go and buy new MANUAL drive shafts like i did.

Only $240 for the pair brand new

Does the right hand (drivers) side include a intermediate shaft as well? (i.e. the shaft after the bearing carrier & driveshaft)

Auto and manual are same. The intermediate shaft does not come with new shafts.

New int shaft is a genuine part only and is over $600 from memory

All complete i bought mine from Hardy Spicer at trade price in Hobart, $90 For Passenger side CV Shaft with ABS, and $150 for Driver side shaft and collar bearing (intermediate shaft included) or $90 without.

Expect to pay retail passenger side $120 with ABS or 105 without and $175 for the complete drivers shaft. I was quoted almost over $400 from our local Mitsubishi Dealer until my boss told me about Hardy Spicer.

I had to take in my old shafts so they be exchange shafts judging by the price i paid

So you are getting rebuilt stuff not new. Massive difference given I sell BRAND new shafts for 135 wash lol