G'day,
im about to replace the clutch on my tp 5 speed and im wondering whether its you need to shim the release lever pivot to obtain the right geometry? i know you need to do if on the 2nd gen but haven't found any info for the first gens using the search feature.

if you do need to do it then a detailed procedure would be greatly appreciated, however im assuming you unscrew the pivot knuckle from the box and stick a shim inbetween the box and the pivots thread then slap it back together, my problem is just how many and how do you tell when its all good?

thanks,
regards jay

Have a read of this: http://www.repcotrade.com.au/go/news/clutch-industries-mitsubishi-tips.

When I replaced the clutch in my sons TP wagon the installation instructions came with info on how to shim the release lever pivot.

Cheers

I did a write up for the second Gen. If you can find that, it has a description of how to check the geometry. I used 2 shims (washers) 2 mm thick, the car had done 210,000 km, if that helps.

looks like i have to shim my TM

I hit down to the floor to get any gear

is this the thread madmax?

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56317&page=1&highlight=clutch+shimming

sounds easy enough. hope it dosnt take 3 months worth of weekends tho! i did the conversion from auto to manual in 8 hours or so, only because first gens are so easy to work on lol. but i suppose it isnt much harder to convert then do a clutch anyway. my biggest advantage is having a solid garage for a block and tackle to hang from so i can just take the engine and box out all at once.

thanks allot
regards jay

is this the thread madmax?

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56317&page=1&highlight=clutch+shimming

Affirmative.

ok so i got her all in. one 2.5mm shim that i cut out of an old gear box dowel did the tirck and took the release arm within 10mm of the housing when pushed all the way back so no problems there. clutch is super light too.

my only problem is there is allot of shudder in reverse. might just need some time to bed in but im not so sure. it dosnt happen at all in 1st so im assuming it might just be engine mounts twisting the engine the wrong way. only happens when you are feathering the clutch (as you do in reverse, cant really be avoided) but totally stops when the clutch is released so maybe its the disc shuddering. its a clutch industries disc made by pbr if that helps. also it has 4 springs instead of the old one wich had the rubber things instead of springs on the disc its self

so any suggestions there? and any advice on running it in. everywhere ive read just says drive it normally but avoid riding it or dumping it for the first 500 - 1000

ok so i got her all in. one 2.5mm shim that i cut out of an old gear box dowel did the tirck and took the release arm within 10mm of the housing when pushed all the way back so no problems there. clutch is super light too.

my only problem is there is allot of shudder in reverse. might just need some time to bed in but im not so sure. it dosnt happen at all in 1st so im assuming it might just be engine mounts twisting the engine the wrong way. only happens when you are feathering the clutch (as you do in reverse, cant really be avoided) but totally stops when the clutch is released so maybe its the disc shuddering. its a clutch industries disc made by pbr if that helps. also it has 4 springs instead of the old one wich had the rubber things instead of springs on the disc its self

so any suggestions there? and any advice on running it in. everywhere ive read just says drive it normally but avoid riding it or dumping it for the first 500 - 1000


That's those springs bouncing around, the rubber buffer design is much better at absorbing those vibrations, try different rpms when you use reverse, there will be a sweet spot where you don't get shudder. Engine mounts are worth a check though.
Running in -just use it normally, ie gently. Dumping or riding the clutch isn't good whatever age the clutch is.

it seems a little better today, ill just have to let it bed in then see what happens. powersteering hose is leaking from a union now, i just replaces it because it was leaking at the crimping from rubber to steel line now its leaking twice as bad lol. the fun of cars!