Hi looked but can not find nay details on sorting out whether I have a faulty alternator or regulator.

I have a 99 Verada and Multimeter shows the battery at 12.4 Volts and does not go higher if i rev the motor.
Any tips on what or how to test to see if it is a Alternator or just the regulator.

I discovered the non charging batt issue after searching why the car keeps increasingly stalling at lights and some times it seems to do so when driving (engine appears to die but crash starts itself) I have cleaned the ISC and TB

General the alternator is swap out for a new or a reco unit. As the regulator is part of alternator there is no point in swapping a part of it as there could be worn brushes and so forth. Better swap the whole thing out. But I think you have answer my issues about my own cars electric :)

If your battery is fully charged the alternator should be putting out 14.4 volts at idle with lights etc off. Anything less is not good. Use a cheap battery charger (about 4 amp output) overnight to juice up the battery, test drive the car to see if it's better, and check the battery voltage again.
Swap the alternator with another one from the wreckers or a reconditioned one if it doesn't cooperate.
Dismantle the old one by pulling out the regulator. If the commutator is good, but the brushes are worn, replace those. Check diodes with a multimeter. If you think it's worthwhile, get another regulator with brushes off Mitsu dealer/auto electrician/eBay, reassemble and store away as a spare.

The alt will be sitting at 14.4 or there abouts regardless if the battery is fully charged or not, it is the job of the Alt to charge the battery. If yours is still starting on the battery and only sitting 12ish volts then the alt is shagged

Dont bother with regs (these do have the brushes in them) as often the armature is worn and the diodes may be fried as well (although usually only when the reg has died) Just get yourself a low mileage used one or a new / reco one and then is a once off job.

Tip on removing the alt, remove the drivers side thermo fan, is only 4 10mm bolts and 1 connection, you will need to temp take off the top rad hose so the fan will clear and then the alt will have just enough room to clear once the top bracket has been removed

Thanks madmagna was just trying to work out how to get the alt out , not much room to move so will take out fan
Cheers

This may be a silly question , the main cable/strap bolt was finger tight and the strap could be moved back and forward would this stop the alt from sending any voltage to the battery and explain the 12.4 volts rather then 13-14 volts... i ask as the replacement alt looks older than mine

This may be a silly question , the main cable/strap bolt was finger tight and the strap could be moved back and forward would this stop the alt from sending any voltage to the battery and explain the 12.4 volts rather then 13-14 volts... i ask as the replacement alt looks older than mine

No such thing as a silly question, but I think the only sensible answer is to tighten it and see if the problem goes away - or pop a condom on it. ;)

Ok all is good, tightened bolt got 14.4 Volts, don't need that replacement alt now lol thanks for all the input

Yeah I think it would have trouble trying to send 110 amps through a loose connection. Give it a good clean, tighten and check any other wires too incase they are loose.