So the continuing saga of my GF's magna could be nearing a solution.

So far I've made the starter work and made sure there's a spark, so that leaves the fuel.

A coupld of squirts of "Start ya bastard" and it lives, all be it only momentarily, still it confirms that there isn't any fuel getting to the pots.

So when I turn the key it makes fuel pump type noises, butI'll be buggered if I can find the fuel pump, any hints.

I've got th emanual downloaded, but no access to it at the moment.

Anything else that I can do to make the fuel system good again?

Apparently this beast has been sitting dormant for 6 months, so I reckon the injectors will be gummed up and since I can't run it to push any injector cleaner through it I'll need to pull the injectors. Any tips on cleaning them?

Pump hides in the fuel tank.

The fuel pump is in the tank access is from under the rear seat there is a plate. I doubt the fuel pump will be the problem tho. Whats the car actually doing turning over but not starting?

I am guessing maybe an immobiliser problem. the immobilisers cuts the injector pulse stopping it from starting.

Cheers chaps, I did find the fuel pump then, I thought it was just the level sender 'cos it's a bit smaller than I expected, I will test it and see if it runs.

Interesting call on the immobiliser (the motor turns on the starter, but won't fire). I did need to get a new key cut and coded to the car, but since then I've found the old key, I was using the newer key, so will try with the older key.

Ruswins assured me they had coded the key properly (I had the car towed to them to do it, but it had no starter so they couldn't start it).

The history is that GF's husband (soon to be ex) was picking up kids from school. Stopped motor, then it wouldn't restart (this was 6 months ago, so old fuel will have turned to goo). One of the kids recalls that it was turning over, but not starting.

Is there any way of testing the immobiliser. The remote fob is long lost so it's all done by the key, which seems to work fine. If I open the boot without opening the doors the horn alarm will go off, so there's deffo an alarm system in there.

The more I think about it the more I'm likely to agree with crackajnr, even with gummed injectors I'd expect some sign of life.

I think the immob. cuts the injectors?

Cannot speak 100% for Magnas, but I had a spare blank key cut for my Pajero (the genuine key is hidden inside the vehicle and the spare is used only to get inside without breaking glass etc if I lose my mainkeys). Naturally, I tried it in the door locks and it worked, so I tried it in the ignition. A brief flash of life, then dead. This means that it must have some spark. My Pajero is on gas as well, so obviously the immobiliser must cut out that as well, otherwise it would have fired up and run on gas.

You appear to be describing the dreaded immobiliser problem.

When the car played up was it a hot day??

Mal has posted that the BEM printed circuit plays up.
The BEM is behind the lower dash trim just above your right knee.

Immobiliser works as follows.
Key communicates to the BEM via a wound coil, "Antenna" that is around the front of the ignition lock barrel.

2 wires to a small connector just down the steering column, can be worthwhile taking this connector apart and together several times. Have a good look at the female connectors to ensure that they are not damaged and are correctly in the connector housing.

Wiring then goes to the BEM.

Then from BEM to ECU. From memory this is a brown wire.

If the ECU receives immobiliser fault signal it cuts off the injectors, NOT the ignition.

I had this problem about 4 years ago, ended up spending a fortune at the stealership. In the end the BEM was replaced. As the problem occurred I could usually get the engine to start by wiggling the wiring / connector on the BEM housing. However eventually it got to the point where even this did not work.

I would remove the BEM, open it up and very carefully inspect the printed circuit under a bright light and a magnifier.

Gerry

Simple solution, get a NOID light and check for an injector pulse, if you have no pulse then you have no start. IF no pulse but you have spark, then the ig system is fine and the most likely solution will be the BEM will need to be replaced

You have several options here, you can get an ECU, BEM and Key from another car, change ig barrel and just have 2 keys, one for doors and one for ig, next option is keep your ignition and secure a second antenna under hte dash with the new key secured into this antenna. Third option is get 2 new keys made for your car from mits, install the new ecu and bem and then programme the new keys into the new bem, as they will match your vin no need then to change locks etc

Thanks again, I've been away for a while, so not had a chance to have a further look at the car until last night.

Seems like it must be the immob. Unfortunately I don't know the full history of the fault, but the RACQ guy couldn't do anything, so I'd suspect an electronic failure.

New BEM and ECU sound expensive, so I'll have a look at the wreckers.

Do they need to come as a pair so they will talk to each other?

Also, if I could take the chip out of the donor key and drop it into the existing key could I avoid replacing the ignition barrel?

I was able to easily remove the aerial coil and it doesn't appear to be anymore than a copper coil, so I can't imagine that it's coded to each key/BEM/ECU.

What I'm getting at, as I think while I type, is that I reckon with a donor BEM, ECU and key, I can replace the BEM and ECU and replace the chip in the key I have with that of the donor and all should be sweet. Any thoughts?

Oh nearly forgot!

A mate can get his hands on a code reader thingy that plugs in under the dash, I've got a PDF copy of the manual with the codes and test proceedures etc., but not had a chance to print and read it yet.

Will the diagnostic tool tell me if the BEM or ECU is stuffed?

What I'm getting at, as I think while I type, is that I reckon with a donor BEM, ECU and key, I can replace the BEM and ECU and replace the chip in the key I have with that of the donor and all should be sweet. Any thoughts?AFAIK, the chip is a permanent part of the key, there's no way you could get the chip out of the donor key and put it in your existing key. Much easier/cheaper to grab the ignition and lock barrels while you are there. Don't forget the boot lock. And if possible, try to find a donor with at least two keys.

Spare key, stanley knife, have a go at chip extraction?

^ that's what I was thinking.

Guy at Ruswins showed me a selection of the chips they put in the keys and they are pretty small, so a good hack into it with a sharp knife should reveal the chip.

However, I just got a price from a wreckers on the BEM/ECU/keys/locks/ign barrel $400, so I'm not quite so enthusiastic any more.

I'm gonna open up the BEM and have a good lokk at it as suggested above, I've also found mention that it can simply be a poor connection on the data wire to the ECU.

I've also read that if the Battery has been disconnected for a while the BEM or ECU can forget who they are!

I'd be surprised if this is true, anyone able to confirm deny?

So the car is a TH, I can do a complete set up for you for around the $250 mark, will only have 1 key as is rare for any Magna to come with 2 keys from auctions but will have come from a running car

Cheers Madmagna, that seems a lot more reasonable. I've got a few things to try, but I'm not confident.

I'm going to be back in Melbourne 16th to 19th March, If I decide to get the parts I'll let you know in advance and pick them up when I'm down. How much warning do you need?