My car is coming up due for an oil change, and I have heard good things about the wynns engine flush. My only problem is that my car has done almost 215000k. I am worried that I will loosen some stuck on debris in the engine and make everything worse rather than better. Am I paraniod? Is it worthwhile? Should I do it?

buy some cheapo gulf western oil, drain your engine and put the gw in there with some engine flush. do a blockie, or drive for however long the engine flush specifies, then drain it and put your new oil and filter in.

it wont hurt the motor. it may slightly block the filter if it is ultra bad, but if it is that bad, you would likely have other issues as well.

i did the above with my magna when i bought it @ 80k and the thing never blew smoke even with approx 290k on it and over 150 quarter mile runs under its belt. i only did it because i wasnt sure what oil had been used and how frequent the changes were. i always used nulon fully synthetic after that.

On a 215k engine I wouldn't do a flush - they have a habit of causing more issues than they fix. But if you really want to do one just get some 0w-20 and run it through it (But I wouldnt) read here : http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Ok sweet. I will give that a go. I use penrite hpr10-50 but I will flush it with some spare castrol I have lying around. Should I use any particular grade? Thicker or thinner or doesn't matter?

Honestly I find it funny that people think a flush can cause more damage then doing good. The number one reason people seem to think this is because someone will say that sludge or debris that has built up over time actually blocks an outlet that oil can leak from. Well sooner or later it will come unstuck and then you will be stuck, its defiantly worth doing otherwise you will be contaminating the new oil anyway. Another issue is people believe that a cheap flush will dry out seals, Ive used Liqui Tech, Liqui Moly and another one that I forget the name of and with 360xxxk's on the clock im not having anymore issue then I was before the flush.

A good engine flush will also help remove contaminants from tappets which once they get blocked can be quite a pain, so yes its worth while. After a couple of flushes you could stop without issue aslong as you keep up the regular oil changes but to this day i still use it regardless.

I just want to keep my engine from being more damaged in the future from blocked oil lines. At the same time, I don't want to block them now.

I just want to keep my engine from being more damaged in the future from blocked oil lines. At the same time, I don't want to block them now.

A good flush should ensure that any baked sludge deposits are removed. Chopping and changing oils will not do this.

At the end of the day you can do it your own way, but if the motor has been looked after a flush won't do any harm, if it hasn't been looked after, a flush is a good place to start a fresh.

I will give it a go and post up how I went. I am a bit worried about it but hopefully it will clean out whatever is stuck in there. I only recently bought the car and I treat really well but there are 210 or so unaccounted for km on the car. The service history is less than perfect as well. Who knows what could be in there. Last time I did an oil change, plastic came out of the sump :S

My experience with engine flushing on unknown engines has been engine failures soon after due to blocked oil galleries and bearing failures due to the treatment itself. Engine flushing is not a recommended maintenance process by any manufacturer in fact this article probably hits the nail on the head as to what it is really about a waste of time designed to lighten your wallet at the best and ruin your engine at the worst:

http://justtryus.blogspot.com.au/2007/12/bonehead-award-engine-oil-flush.html

So the article is a big no, but all the comments are kinda positive. So many contradicting theories.

I think if you have a chat to Madmagna who has a Mitsubishi workshop, IIRC he defends engine flushing, anyone can say anything about them but why not just speak to the people who work on these motor's the most?

Good idea. If anyone, Mal will know.

In the past, with older type rubber seals, dog turd rear main seals etc flushing could cause issues

But from experience, and nearly all my customers get an engine flush when I do a service, I have seen a lot of gunk get removed and many a time have even had customers come back to me to comment how the car does feel different. One member here, if he chooses to name himself he can, used the Wynns in his car, he was amazed at the difference, he did this figuring he had nothing to lose.

I also flush all of my motors, often will even flush a motor I am pulling out of a car before I take it out just to be sure it is cleaned out.

Thanks for that Mal. Really cleared things up for me. Is this a completely no risk exercise for the 6g72 engine? Am I going to have any chance of seizing the engine by using Wynns?

Thanks for that Mal. Really cleared things up for me. Is this a completely no risk exercise for the 6g72 engine? Am I going to have any chance of seizing the engine by using Wynns?

Its not a complete risk free task, like what i said before if you have gunk actually blocking a hole in a seal, when the flush removes this you will obviously have a leak. However its not the flushes fault, its the fault of a poorly maintained motor.

As above but perhaps not termed that way lol, if there is a seal that is gunked up and is worn, the chances are it will let go soon enough anyway lol

As long as you dont do something silly and take the car for a drive with the flush, there should not be any issues, leave it idle for 20 or so minutes and then put back in the wynns friction proof when the new oil goes back in

Great. I look forward to seeing the gunk pour out

Definitely don't rev or drive the car with the stuff in. I've only ever used it once, and the old oil came out thinner than water, if that is possible. (No blobs of crud or sludge in it either) Also got a good leak from the main bearing seal, big enough for me to buy a drip tray to protect the driveway, but the leak went away slowly. I was thinking that I would need to do an engine rebuild at one stage. So personally, I wouldn't use the stuff, ever again, but then its an old 6G72 motor with 240,000 km on it, your experience might be better.

A question for people who imagine their engine is filled with crud and sludge. Where do you think it comes from? Air filter, petrol filter, oil filter - no way rubbish gets into your engine. If you are really concerned, next time you do an oil change cut open the old oil filter. If it's full of sludge, by all means use a flush. And use a better grade of oil. And change it more often.

To the OP: My TF (6G72 auto) has done 555,000 kms, original motor, no rebuilds. I've used a flush the last couple of oil changes, she's still going strong.
Only issue is that it burns a bit of oil (smokes at idle). If this stuff does any harm, I'd have noticed it by now.

As Madmagna says, the key is not to put load on the engine with this stuff added.

Add flush, idle car for 15-20 mins, drain old oil, replace filter and new oil, friction proof. Done.

I change my oil every 2500km simply because it has a lot of k's on it and gets driven pretty hard. I always use penrite hpr10w-50 fully synthetic but before I bought it, it was full of valvoline mineral oil and an eBay filter with Chinese writing all over it so I can assume it was treated like crap before me.

What is this friction proof stuff? I have never heard of it

Best go to the wynns site, I have been using this stuff for over 20 years so sorry max, I can not agree with you in any aspect of your post. The flush does not cause an oil leak and nor do you need to bebuild a motor for a leaking rear main seal, second gen V6 motors always had issues with the rear main

Also, where does the sludge and muck come from, I think it time you go off and read about combistion, that is where the "muck" comes from, you get carbon, you get H2SO4 from the sulphur in the fuel mixing with moisture in the air, you get all sorts of muck in there. I have seen motors even starved of oil refilled when SUpreme (friction proof) is used and do another 100000+k's with no issues at all.

As I stated I have been using this for over 20 years, if you get an oil leak then it is not the flush that has caused it, it is actually alerting you to the fact that you have a worn seal and regardless of the flush or not you would end up replacing that seal sooner or later

Best go to the wynns site, I have been using this stuff for over 20 years so sorry max, I can not agree with you in any aspect of your post. The flush does not cause an oil leak and nor do you need to bebuild a motor for a leaking rear main seal, second gen V6 motors always had issues with the rear main

Also, where does the sludge and muck come from, I think it time you go off and read about combistion, that is where the "muck" comes from, you get carbon, you get H2SO4 from the sulphur in the fuel mixing with moisture in the air, you get all sorts of muck in there. I have seen motors even starved of oil refilled when SUpreme (friction proof) is used and do another 100000+k's with no issues at all.

As I stated I have been using this for over 20 years, if you get an oil leak then it is not the flush that has caused it, it is actually alerting you to the fact that you have a worn seal and regardless of the flush or not you would end up replacing that seal sooner or later

Just relating my experience in the last post of mine. lol Other people's experience will vary. I can't even remember which flush I used.

As for combustion byproducts, the oil soaks it up. That's why it gets changed, before the detergent and dispersant additives get used up or overloaded, because that's when you start to get sludge. And the sulfuric acid is why you change the oil before putting a car in storage, otherwise you can get etched bores and bearings.

As to replacing the seal sooner or later, I'd prefer it to be later, when someone else owns it. I'm not keeping it past 20 years of age, I'm just asking it to keep running and not leak too much in the meantime. Bought it 4 years ago for $1,200 - it owes me nothing.

Anyway, each to his own. Flush or no flush, personal choice.

Well I am just going to flush it. If it does damage to the engine then I will just repair or replace it. As you said max, each to their own. The car is 16 years old and it cost me $2000. If it dies, so be it. It would have died anyway. I doubt the flush will cause harm, it might just expose some harm that has already been done at worst. At best, I can get a better, cleaner, more powerful, more efficient engine out of it. If something bad happens then I will let you all know. I trust Madmagna's opinion. He hasn't got it wrong as far as I can see. Thanks for the help all.

Let us know how you go I'd be interested, I guess my way of "flushing" has been more gentle I use a good quality oil and half the changes for the first 20,000km any oil has a detergent effect anyway so eventully all contaminants end up in the filter.

What is this friction proof stuff? I have never heard of it

Its an additive, helps prevent friction on start up, its good considering most engine wear happens at start up. It comes in a bottle just like engine flush, but this goes in with new oil.

Ok, I will grab a bottle of it. I will definitely let you all know how it goes

So how did it all go dreggzy?? Did your engine survive and do you notice much difference in performance? Im interested in getting this done myself!

I flushed the engine with wynns engine flush and it looks like it did the job. I then used wynns supreme engine treatment and it ran fine. No noticeable performance difference but the engine sounded quieter and a bit more refined. My engine in that car was pretty tired and worn out so of your engine is in better condition then it might have a better effect.

Cheers mate. Mines done 208k and its got noisy tappets. Hoping an engine flush will quieten them down :think:

Should do. It won't stop completely but it will definitely improve it. Use wynns supreme after flushing. I think that's where I got the most benefit.

If noisy lash adjusters use wynns tune up

I don't know what people think of Liqui Moly Engine Detox? It is supposedly better than their stand 'Liqui Moly Engine Flush', which I presume would be similar in performance to the Wynn's, Nulon etc. (use just before changing oil of course)!

After changing oil, Nulon Lifter tuneup and free? If it is still an issue. Once the engine is clean of carbon and crap, that's when it would be ideal to use the Wynn's engine treatment, Nulon Performance engine treatment, or a Molybdenum Disulphide treatment (you can use a Moly treatment and the other treatments together, just as long as you use the Moly treatment first).

Thanks for the advice guys! Will wait till my next oil change and do it then :rofleek:

Let us know how you go.

DON'T use that moly or Teflon crap in an engine, there is a damn good reason the aviation industry put a blanket ban on it all

Just curious :) I have heard the same about teflon, but it depends on the quality of the PTFE? (many of the cheap brands found overseas use low quality stuff that can clog galleys etc).

I believe the Wynn's treatment uses the following active ingredients:
Phosphorodithioic acid, O,O-di-C1-14-alkyl esters, zinc salts, benzenesulfonic acid, C10-60-alkyl derivatives, calcium salts

So no PTFE :) but it does make you wonder what potential side effects these pose, and I doubt whether the aviation industry would allow this either.

Issue was metals and Teflon coming out of suspension and. Locking oil galleries with violent engine seizures and in some cases engines being torn from aircraft thus the ban

I have used Wynns for over 20 years. Had 1 rotary motor where cust ran out of oil and drove car to me with dry sump. Motor had minor heat damage but sfa compared to what would be the norm for a 20k trip with no oil

I have to agree the Wynn's stuff is good, the only reason I mentioned the Nulon is supposedly they resolved the issued with the teflon. The mention of Molybdenum Disulphide was a question, I never meant it as a statement :)