I'm about to place an order for forged pistons and conrods for my 6g72. I'm not too keen on installing them in my backyard but I was just wondering what's involved with a professional install.

Question... why not use a 74? its a stronger engine, offers more torque, and parts availably is similar.

What do you plan to do with your forged pistons?

Are you going down the turbo route? Or tough NA?

What cams you running? What power you wanting to get?

Professional install means taking your motor out and getting it built. I wouldn't do piston swaps in a backyard... Do you know how to space and gap rings in the piston???

Question... why not use a 74? its a stronger engine, offers more torque, and parts availably is similar.

how??

Question... why not use a 74? its a stronger engine, offers more torque, and parts availably is similar.


how??

Hold up.. I need to quote this.

This is going to be awesome.

CRO@ where are you purchasing your rods and pistons from and how much are you paying?

its stronger because it gives out more power as a stock engine.

inb4 petty argument over grammar :P

how??


Main bearing cap is held by 16 bolts in 3.5 litre compared to 8 bolts in 3.0 litre.

Life: coz i've got a 3.0l and that's what i'm using
TJTime: i'm doing a twin turbo conversion. I'll just be running #6 cams and i'm aiming for about 350-400hpat the fly. And no, I personally don't know how to space and gap rings :)
T_double_U i'm getting the conrods and pistons from the states and i'm paying about $800 for the set of 6 rods and ARP rod bolts and $800 for the 6 pistons.

For future reference for anybody wanting to give their 2c on what "they" would do or what i'm doing is a waste of time... just don't. I've heard it all before.

Life: coz i've got a 3.0l and that's what i'm using
TJTime: i'm doing a twin turbo conversion. I'll just be running #6 cams and i'm aiming for about 350-400hpat the fly. And no, I personally don't know how to space and gap rings :)
T_double_U i'm getting the conrods and pistons from the states and i'm paying about $800 for the set of 6 rods and ARP rod bolts and $800 for the 6 pistons.

For future reference for anybody wanting to give their 2c on what "they" would do or what i'm doing is a waste of time... just don't.

I've heard it all before.

Ba Boom lol

T_double_U[/B] i'm getting the conrods and pistons from the states and i'm paying about $800 for the set of 6 rods and ARP rod bolts and $800 for the 6 pistons.

Yer thats a good price for the pistons,with the conrods have you considered SPOOL rods? there now $640 and are what i was using in my engine build http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-conrods/mitsubishi/mitsubishi-6g72-conrods could save you a few dollars.

Hmmm you might be onto something there with the SPOOL rods... Definately a tasty option. I think I will keep that at the top of the list. Thanks for that :)

Hmmm you might be onto something there with the SPOOL rods... Definately a tasty option. I think I will keep that at the top of the list. Thanks for that :)

No worries.

I've rebuilt a number of engines as a "backyarder" (under the carport actually). Nothing to it, BUT it helps if you take the engine out, strip it down, and take the pistons and block to get cleaned and measured so the pistons can be matched to bores. (I'm assuming you are buying standard size pistons and have an engine with no bore wear, here.) Rebuild with new gaskets, seals etc and bearing shells if needed. (Plastigauge is your friend here). If you get oversize pistons, a machine shop will need to do the bore and hone. If it is a high Km engine, working over the heads is worth doing.
I always measure ring end gaps, but have never needed to file any down.
Basically you are doing an engine rebuild, but it can be done at home, as long as you have the manual for procedures and torque wrench settings, and an adequate set of tools.

No, I don't want to know why you spent that amount of money on parts that are serviceable as is from the factory, in a stock engine. You are obviously up to something . . . . . . . .

I thought stock rods were already forged?

Main bearing cap is held by 16 bolts in 3.5 litre compared to 8 bolts in 3.0 litre.

cheers man,

i always thought the 3.0L was stronger (not more powerfull)

i think thats why ego used it in his build.

cheers man,

i always thought the 3.0L was stronger (not more powerfull)

i think thats why ego used it in his build.

Nope, 3.5 is stronger... Engines are very similar except for the whole 2 bolt mains vs 4 bolt mains thing.

Not sure why they used a 3.0 on EGO's car. it could have been to keep torque down as it was already breaking things and slipping with every clutch installed. Could have been because the shorter stroke makes it revvier.

Higher RPM on the 6G72? oil squirters?

Nope, 3.5 is stronger... Engines are very similar except for the whole 2 bolt mains vs 4 bolt mains thing.

Not sure why they used a 3.0 on EGO's car. it could have been to keep torque down as it was already breaking things and slipping with every clutch installed. Could have been because the shorter stroke makes it revvier.

Correct. It looooves to rev.

the 6g72 tt dohc engines had oil spuirters, the dohc blocks (6g72) are very strong with 4bolt mains and from about 92 on had forged cranks too, dont think this applys to the sohc blocks

You are correct. The DOHC 6G72 had forged cranks from 92 onwards. Not sure about the 4-bolt mains.