Title is a little tongue in cheek but essentially, went to the Mitsi dealer today to get quotes on my 135,000km service, fuel sender (Which I will do myself I think), and door actuator. I also got a bonus bunch of information about the previous owner the service guy just started randomly telling me while he updated the details on the car, including his name, his new car and the fact that by a really strange coincidence he had just booked his new Lancer Aspire in to be serviced like five minutes before I walked in. He may have actually driven past his old car on the way out, which is kinda trippy. But anyway, I digress...

135k Service: Four hundred, four hundred twenty or so.
Fuel Sender: One hundred twenty or so.
Door Actuator: Six hundred a-- wait what the ****?

$600 to replace and fit the door actuator. Jeez man, that is insane! That's a lot even for all four but he reckons it's the driver door. How can such an item cost so much, isn't it a basic small mechanical part? I was thinking about getting them to do it for the peace of mind but not for that price!

I did have a think though... I'm getting my front doors Dynamatted soon, my concern is that this will make it difficult or impossible to get to the actuator. Is anyone familiar with if the actuator would be accessible or not if the door skin side has been covered in Dynamat Xtreme?

Cheers,
Jake

IF you get the door properly done, which ampl WILL do. . you have NO hope of getting to the actuator lol Its a piece of piss to replace, think they are taking you on a ride. . an expensive one. .

Yep that's what I suspected. Already bought the Dynamat just recently but will need to tell them not to install the Dynamat in the doors when I take it into them on Sat. A little disappointing :(

Also being legit Mitsi service centre I reckon it's probably a scenario of they're just going to replace all four and charge me full price for the lot plus labour. Oh well, it's not a major issue but sucks I won't be able to get the Dynamatting done for the doors. Cheers mate! I'll go back to my idea of sourcing the actuators myself.

Seriously if you dont put the dynamat in dont expect very good results. . The speakers you are going to be running demand dynamat lol Actuators are still on my car lol

Title is a little tongue in cheek but essentially, went to the Mitsi dealer today to get quotes on my 135,000km service, fuel sender (Which I will do myself I think), and door actuator. I also got a bonus bunch of information about the previous owner the service guy just started randomly telling me while he updated the details on the car, including his name, his new car and the fact that by a really strange coincidence he had just booked his new Lancer Aspire in to be serviced like five minutes before I walked in. He may have actually driven past his old car on the way out, which is kinda trippy. But anyway, I digress...

135k Service: Four hundred, four hundred twenty or so.
Fuel Sender: One hundred twenty or so.
Door Actuator: Six hundred a-- wait what the ****?

$600 to replace and fit the door actuator. Jeez man, that is insane! That's a lot even for all four but he reckons it's the driver door. How can such an item cost so much, isn't it a basic small mechanical part? I was thinking about getting them to do it for the peace of mind but not for that price!

I did have a think though... I'm getting my front doors Dynamatted soon, my concern is that this will make it difficult or impossible to get to the actuator. Is anyone familiar with if the actuator would be accessible or not if the door skin side has been covered in Dynamat Xtreme?

Cheers,
Jake

Pffft... KF Xi Verada remotes are apparently ~$300 (quoted at 2 different dealerships). Apparently they are 'the expensive ones.'

Makes $600 on a door actuator sound reasonable!

That is the price of a single acuator, not 4 of them lol. Sadly Mits prices for some parts for the magna and verada are very expensive, most 380 parts are not like that price wise.

They will nto be doing all 4 doors.

Also the price quoted for the 135k service is quite high also but for a dealership is about average I guess

Price fitted for fuel sender was actually quite a reasonable surprise as I have seen customers charged double that. Make sure your tank is not full when you change that bad boy

Door lock actuator? I think I have one, pm me if you need it and can come get it. I live up north ways.

Ah, am I the only one who came into this thread expecting solid gold actuators? :(

Mits prices = horribly expensive. They wanted $300 for a replacement tail light from me. :\

Hell, you could go and obtain a door for less than that at a wreckers...

Just for info, on Commodores, Falcons and probably other brands it is not unheard of to replace the factory actuator with an aftermarket 'clamp-on' unit - the ones you see priced under $40 for the 4 including master unit. They simply clamp onto the actuating arm from either the door keylock or the inside door handle.

Just for info, on Commodores, Falcons and probably other brands it is not unheard of to replace the factory actuator with an aftermarket 'clamp-on' unit - the ones you see priced under $40 for the 4 including master unit. They simply clamp onto the actuating arm from either the door keylock or the inside door handle.

:offtopic:

Further info regarding AU, BA & BF Falcon door lock actuators... for anyone who cares.

When an actuator fails in these fords, it's usually just a plastic cog that has snapped inside the actuator. So no need to replace the whole actuator, it's just a matter of pulling the door trim off and getting the actuator out to replace this cog, much cheaper too!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-AU-BA-BF-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR-REPAIR-GEAR-COG-/230749812018?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b9c2b532

:offtopic:

Further info regarding AU, BA & BF Falcon door lock actuators... for anyone who cares.

When an actuator fails in these fords, it's usually just a plastic cog that has snapped inside the actuator. So no need to replace the whole actuator, it's just a matter of pulling the door trim off and getting the actuator out to replace this cog, much cheaper too!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-AU-BA-BF-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR-REPAIR-GEAR-COG-/230749812018?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b9c2b532

I love the AU door locking design....the actuators are mostly made of cheap plastic.....then there is only one lock on the drivers side to get in the car....the actuator failed on our AU 5 times in the last 7 years and the lock doesn't work after attempted break in....so it was a lot of fun trying to get in the car....5 hours later.

Seriously if you dont put the dynamat in dont expect very good results. . The speakers you are going to be running demand dynamat lol Actuators are still on my car lol

Oh yeah I'd get the Dynamat done eventually regardless, I've already bought it! The only issue is if I can't get the actuator replaced and fixed by Saturday, and then I have them install it, I'd have to get it ripped back out again to get to the actuator. It doesn't make sense, massive waste of money versus just not installing it for a month or so until I fix the issue. So it's a bit of a race before Saturday to sort this out, otherwise I'll have to only get them to Dynamat the other areas.


That is the price of a single acuator, not 4 of them lol. Sadly Mits prices for some parts for the magna and verada are very expensive, most 380 parts are not like that price wise.

They will nto be doing all 4 doors.

Also the price quoted for the 135k service is quite high also but for a dealership is about average I guess

Price fitted for fuel sender was actually quite a reasonable surprise as I have seen customers charged double that. Make sure your tank is not full when you change that bad boy

Cheers Mal for the helpful info. I will probably actually get them to do the fuel sender for me for that price, even though I reckon I could do it myself, I think considering I'd have to spend the time pulling one out of a wreck, buy the tools (Don't have a suitable set) and actually pay for a second hand one anyway, $140 isn't that bad as he reckons that includes their labour. But I may look elsewhere for the service, dunno, depends on that one. Definitely will do the actuators myself, $600 is way more than I would pay just for the convenience of not having to use my key occasionally.

I'm quite certain it's the drivers door because when they do fail, if I turn the key in the door, it manually locks the driver's door which in turn always smoothly locks the other three remotely. That would suggest the problem doesn't lie with any of the other three actuators, yeah?


Door lock actuator? I think I have one, pm me if you need it and can come get it. I live up north ways.

I will do.

Guys, the issue has evolved!

Today I went out for lunch with the workmates and grabbed my phone from my car (Restricted workspace, not allowed to have it in the building) and it was reasonably hot in the car park so I figured the doors wouldn't work. Hit the button, drivers door unlocked. Hit the button again, all passenger doors unlocked. Flawless first go.

On a hunch, I hit the button to lock them all again. All four locked successfully, flawless first go. Then, I hit the button to unlock them again... nothing. No response. Lights flashed, green security light turned off, not a single door responded. What the ****, right? So I put the key in and twisted it once to unlock the drivers door manually. Then I took the key out, hit the unlock button and the other three doors smoothly unlocked. So the symptoms are still the same except it's not just heat or luck that does this, there is a pattern emerging where it works once then once you lock it again it won't work again after that until you use the key no matter how many times you hit the button.

BUT WAIT! Here's where it gets way confusing. I got my phone out, shut the drivers door and hit the lock button again. To my surprise, the drivers door didn't lock, the rear doors both locked smoothly, and the passenger door half locked! As in, the chrome interior lock switch was half open, half closed. What the **** is going on with these doors!!!

Help me Jeebus! Help me Oprah Winafrey! Help me Tom Cruise!

Check the Boot.




For signs that it once carried a dead body, your car is haunted.

The bit that trips me out is that it was able to lock the rear doors successfully and attempted to lock the passenger door, without even activating the mechanism on the drivers door. I audibly heard the rear doors lock loudly, the drivers door was silent. My understanding of how these doors actually fire is clearly way off because I thought it was impossible for the other doors to remotely lock without the drivers door locking in the same signal.

The drivers door DID get and did SEND that signal to the rest of the doors. The mechanical part on the drivers door is stuff not the electronic part. Thats why it is intermittent

Have you had a chance to actually take off the trim and inside the inside of the door?

I was recently having issues locking my doors with the door locks opening and closing randomly. Pretty creepy when the car is parked and you can hear the door locks randomly opening and closing.

I then thought I would try locking the passenger door with the key - when I was doing so the key barrel moved inside the door about 3mm. I figured a disappearing key barrel wasn't a feature of magnas so I took off the trim to discover that a small yellow plastic casing that goes on the back of the barrel was broken off. That cap is has a cable coming out the back of it that connects to the door actuator. I figure it must create a circut with the metal in the key barrel. The minute I touched the cable the doors all opened and the locks played up again. So yes I'd recommend taking apart the door and checking all the connections. Have a look with a multimeter if the actuator is getting the right amount of power.

The drivers door DID get and did SEND that signal to the rest of the doors. The mechanical part on the drivers door is stuff not the electronic part. Thats why it is intermittent

Yeah except I tested it out at home today after work and it was displaying entirely different symptoms, I could get it to lock and unlock the drivers door and not the rest of the doors. I then started playing with the passenger side key lock and that was locking and unlocking all the doors successfully most of the time, but every now and then only itself. Every time I think I understand what's going on it throws me a total curve ball.
I don't understand so I'm just gonna replace them all one by one until it goes away lol. Is each door's actuator different or is it just the same part on all four doors?

thekovac, no I haven't but that's on the agenda for tomorrow.

Best to sell the car it seems lol