Evening all,

I pick up my 'new' Magna tomorrow night - a Kashmir 12/01 TJ Advance auto with 179k (for $4,000 with 6 months reg and transfers paid, for those playing at home). Normally when I purchase a new car, I replace a few service items such as the oil, filter, air filter, plugs, etc. the weekend after I purchase it.

What do you replace as soon as you have purchased a car?

In this instance, I'll probably replace the oil, oil filter, coolant and air filter on the weekend. The plugs may have to wait until I'm more familiar with the engine itself, as will the ATF flush. (My previous car was an Elantra, which was dead easy to replace most service items).

I'm interested to hear your thoughts. :happy:

cam belt, water pump soonish.
Outside belts.
drive shaft boots if they are split

petrol, oil.

The last few times, it's been the tyres because they are invariably shit whenever the car is sold. They're either old and worn or new and made for $2.10 and half a pack of chewing gum in china.
Basic service is always a good idea, as is a full-day style cleaning. Half strip the interior and get a decent workout rubbing all the polish.

After that, for the last 3 times, i've done a complete service including plugs and brake fluid, because all 3 of them needed it.
Also, i run through about 1/2 a can of subaru upper engine cleaner and a bottle of nulon octane boost and clean with a full tank of 98. You'd be surprised what just a simple clean will do for the engine.

Timing belt and water pump would be a good idea for you within the next 5-10,000kms, probably plugs too.

brake fluid!!! it might never have been done

[QUOTE]Also, i run through about 1/2 a can of subaru upper engine cleaner and a bottle of nulon octane boost and clean with a full tank of 98. You'd be surprised what just a simple clean will do for the engine.[QUOTE]


In addition to mattvr-x suggestion above, get a can of throttle body cleaner and spray around the throttle plate. Do this cleaning before you change the engine oil. The process can dirty your new engine oil. (it has for my cars).
don't forget the fuel filter.

Regards
Epitrochoid

Is there anything wrong with the car? Does is have any service history, if so when was is serviced last? Don't fix anything if it ain't broke, you're only wasting your money. I would first check out the condition of the fluids then decide if they needs changing, the same goes for plugs.

Thanks for the response guys, it does have a slightly rough idle (which, considering it doesn't carry on throughout the rev range or whilst driving, I have narrowed down to an engine mount) and the coolant has seen better days. It has logbook history til 150k, and an overdue service sticker on the wndscreen (175k), but aside from that its in decent shape.
A timing belt and water pump change is on the cards sooner rather than later, as are plugs, but I was originally planning on doing those at around the 195-200k mark, as I was under the impression that the belt is done every 100k, not 90k - is that right?

Wiper blades lol

Check the log book for the last belt change, and just add 90-100K km and 5 years to that. Service schedule is 90,000 km or 5 years. Similar process for other items like plugs, filters etc.

On a time basis the cam belt is definitely due, but that is assuming the original was replaced at the right time/distance, and that may not be accurate.

In addition to mattvr-x suggestion above, get a can of throttle body cleaner and spray around the throttle plate. Do this cleaning before you change the engine oil. The process can dirty your new engine oil. (it has for my cars).
don't forget the fuel filter.

Regards
Epitrochoid

That makes no sense! How does that possibly dirty engine oil :S

Also replace the oxygen sensor, they are a service part and only last 100 000ks? I think. Someone here could clarify on that if I'm wrong

An ATF flush would be near the top of my list.

Wiper blades lol

Ah, this. When I picked up my TH Exec, I cleaned the windscreen using the washers. Needless to say I went straight to Super Cheap instead of home :P

Engine oil, filter, atf flush, atf filter, air filter, coolant, brake fluid, decent brake pads, spark plugs, ignition leads, wiper blades, tyres if they need it, seat steam clean, interior clean, wash, wax and polish exterior and wheel polish. I think that just about covers it. I am still working through all that on the car I bought a couple of months ago. I saved $1500 on buying it so I don't care if i have to put $1000 into it if it will do any good. In your case and mine a timing belt/water pump as well.

Since I got my TJ in December ( had 99,400km on it, now has 103,400km ) My Mitsubishi dealer has recently done:

Oil & filter, timing belt, external belts, auto trans flush + filter, coolant flush, new brake pads & rotors all round, 3x platimum spark plugs (rear), new fuel filter.

Prior to that, the day after I bought the car I changed oil + filter, air filter, 3x conventional spark plugs (front) & cleaned the throttle body. I've spent just over $2,000 but now everything is done for quite a while and it drives like new.

Also replace the oxygen sensor, they are a service part and only last 100 000ks? I think. Someone here could clarify on that if I'm wrong

It doesn't appear in my service book under the service schedule chart.. i've never replaced an oxygen sensor in any of my cars.

My TJ is now 10 years and has over 160,000km. I've had it for nearly 4 years now and driven over 70,000km, the fuel economy is as good as it ever was, So I'd reckon the oxygen sensors last a bit longer than 100,000km

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor#Sensor_failures

I'd replace the transmission with a DIY item :p perhaps what ShOULD you replace is a better question...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor#Sensor_failures

"Normally, the lifetime of an unheated sensor is about 30,000 to 50,000 miles (50,000 to 80,000 km). Heated sensor lifetime is typically 100,000 miles (160,000 km)"

My sister's TF is 14 years old with 303,000km on it and it's still on it's factory oxygen sensor & no dramas.. is this just pure luck I guess?

Well, one of the first things I want to replace is the engine mount as I have a pretty noticeable vibration at idle that goes away while in motion (would the drivers side top mount be the most likely culprit? By my reckoning, it wouldn't be plugs or leads as it doesn't miss while in motion)
And I think a can of Subaru Upper Cylinder Cleaner wouldn't go astray either, as a few have posted, I'll probably do that before I replace the plugs to minimise fouling and for future durability(?).
Definitely coolant, oil, oil & air filters, and front bank plugs on the weekend. Timing belt kit & water pump sooner rather than later.

Thanks for the great response thus far all, its been interesting to gain the insight of others :)

Mounts are pretty inexpensive. Just make sure you support the engine with a jack when you replace them and only do one at a time. For gods sake don't pull them all off.

Can I respectfully suggest you get under the car and have a really good look?
I'd be more interested in the state of the exhaust system, the drive shaft boots, the steering rack boots, and engine leaks.
First thing I do when I get a "new" (old) car - it's been a while now - is to look at the underside, at boots and stuff, then I pull the wheels off, check pad thickness, condition of rotors, and ball joint boots. I run a spanner and torque wrench over all the bolts on the brakes and suspension. A good time to check the condition of tyres and look for damage to the rims. Only then do I get into changing fluids and filters.

Sound advice Max, and something I'll certainly take on board when I get under it on the weekend. :)

After my TF throwing the power steer belt last week and it wrapping around the crank resulting in the timing belt jumping three to four teeth and having to not only have the car towed but also wonder what the valves looked like.I wish i did this to begin with my self

After my TF throwing the power steer belt last week and it wrapping around the crank resulting in the timing belt jumping three to four teeth and having to not only have the car towed but also wonder what the valves looked like.I wish i did this to begin with my self

Ouch :( Hope the damage isn't too bad..

Ouch :( Hope the damage isn't too bad..

Luckily enough i had the timing belt re-timed and did a compression test to find my week worry was not needed as it was all good

After my TF throwing the power steer belt last week and it wrapping around the crank resulting in the timing belt jumping three to four teeth and having to not only have the car towed but also wonder what the valves looked like.I wish i did this to begin with my self

had this happen the other day, not as bad though, my power steering belt kinda shreaded a little, all i heard was this horrible noise on the highway, in the middle of nowhere lol. the belt was still attached, just, so i cut it, drove to the nearest town, 300 odd kilometers away to get a new belt lol. the car was a real (insert bad words here) to drive :P

ill definitely be changing the belts after i get a rwc

Belts!!
Couple of things to watch out for when you replace these. The standard belts last about 100,000 km when installed correctly and tightened correctly, so it's worth doing right.
Installation: You need to work out how the tensioners work, and how to back them off.
Check that the 2 idler pulleys rotate smoothly while the belts are off.
When you have the new belts on, check, check and check again that they are on all the pulleys correctly. Both 4 rib and 6 rib belts are easy to get on wrong, so that one rib is over the edge of the pulley. This shreds the belt really quickly. With bad end results. (see above) Definitely use a torch when you do this.
Tension: Tighten them, then tighten them more. They flap about and make a horrible noise when cold if not tight enough.
How tight? Well, the manual says a 10 kg force should deflect the belt only 1 cm when pressed at the centre of the longest run. My fat thumb can apply 10 kg, only just - tried it out on bathroom scales to see how hard I need to push.
First time I did this, I thought that it couldn't be right, belt is going to snap or bearings would suffer. But then I checked a brand new Mitsu, sure enough, tight as a drum.

Old belts, checking condition: Cracking across ribs is ok, but if any ribs are missing sections more than 2 cm in length, throw them away.

my alternator belt is cracked , i would like to bypass the AC as its shagged any way..

itll get a heap of TLC after the RWC

Wow, after reading all the replies it seems that you should change just about everything that can be changed. Seriously I would just make sure that the services are upto date, including the transmission fluid (check its not too dark). As for the rest I wouldn't worry about it untill it becomes an issue.



Can I respectfully suggest you get under the car and have a really good look?
I'd be more interested in the state of the exhaust system, the drive shaft boots, the steering rack boots, and engine leaks.
First thing I do when I get a "new" (old) car - it's been a while now - is to look at the underside, at boots and stuff, then I pull the wheels off, check pad thickness, condition of rotors, and ball joint boots. I run a spanner and torque wrench over all the bolts on the brakes and suspension. A good time to check the condition of tyres and look for damage to the rims. Only then do I get into changing fluids and filters.

Shouldn't you check all that before buying a used car?

Wow, after reading all the replies it seems that you should change just about everything that can be changed. Seriously I would just make sure that the services are upto date, including the transmission fluid (check its not too dark). As for the rest I wouldn't worry about it untill it becomes an issue.






Shouldn't you check all that before buying a used car?

"Services up to date" is a bit hard to tell if there is no service record for the car. You might find a windscreen sticker saying when the next oil change is due. Most people who plan to sell their car tend to neglect servicing - why spend money on a car you are about to get rid of?

" . . . I wouldn't worry about it until it becomes an issue." Try that with a cam belt! Preventative maintenance saves money in the long run.

"Shouldn't you check . . . . " What, a dealer will let you pull the wheels off so you can inspect the inside walls of the tyres, rims and brakes?

understand were ya coming from jimbo but this is sort of a preventative maintenance thread for noobs like

The service schedule is a good thing to follow. The only things I don't like about it is going 15k between oil changes, I tend to change it closer to 10k if its been mostly driven to and from work rather than on a long trip. Also the transmission oil should be flushed every 30-40k as 100k is far too long. The other thing is to do the water pump and crankshaft/camshafts oil seals at the 2nd timing belt change. Other than that they are a fairly low maintainance machine.


"Services up to date" is a bit hard to tell if there is no service record for the car. You might find a windscreen sticker saying when the next oil change is due. Most people who plan to sell their car tend to neglect servicing - why spend money on a car you are about to get rid of?

" . . . I wouldn't worry about it until it becomes an issue." Try that with a cam belt! Preventative maintenance saves money in the long run.

"Shouldn't you check . . . . " What, a dealer will let you pull the wheels off so you can inspect the inside walls of the tyres, rims and brakes?

On the first page of this thread the OP said it had a service record to 150,000km. That would include the timing belt. Also dealer will let you jack up the car and take the wheels off to inspect it before buying it, unless they got something to hide. They let the RACV do it when they check out a car for someone.

On the first page of this thread the OP said it had a service record to 150,000km. That would include the timing belt. Also dealer will let you jack up the car and take the wheels off to inspect it before buying it, unless they got something to hide. They let the RACV do it when they check out a car for someone.

It had service history to 150k, but not complete. There was no indication that a timing belt was done in the documentation supplied. Either way I was going to get it done anyway as it was 10 years old and due for a belt by age.

Anyway, as a point of reference, below are the items I replaced since I bought it in February. Most are preventative maintenance, unless noted otherwise:

*Engine oil and filter
*Air filter
*Fuel filter
*External drive belts
*Timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, idlers, cam & crank seals
*Water pump, seals and o-ring
*Coolant, radiator drain plug and radiator cap
*Brake fluid
*Auto trans fluid flush
*Spark plugs, front and rear banks
*Ignition leads, distributor cap and rotor
*PCV valve & Blow-by hose
*Radiator hoses, heater hoses & throttle body water hoses
*Tyres
*Front brake pads and rotors
*Rocker cover gaskets, front and rear and tube seals (Repair - leaking)
*Heater core, pipes and seals (Repair - pipes snapped)
*RH engine mount (Repair - split rubber)
*Throttle body (Repair - ISC Bolt snapped)

That's a pretty comprehensive list, covers pretty much everything . . . . .

You did check the driveshaft boots, I hope.

I bought a TL with 136,100 km, very patchy service record. No recorded sign of a cam belt change at the right time, so I changed it. Just as well.

You probably swapped out the original belt - not bad going time and distance wise!

That's a pretty comprehensive list, covers pretty much everything . . . . .

You did check the driveshaft boots, I hope.

Yep mate, were in good shape last time I checked


I bought a TL with 136,100 km, very patchy service record. No recorded sign of a cam belt change at the right time, so I changed it. Just as well.

You probably swapped out the original belt - not bad going time and distance wise!

I'd say you're right on the money, I bought it knowing I would need to change the timing belt because, despite the sellers assurances (who bought it from auction to sell it on) that it was likely replaced, I could not find definitive documentation saying it had and it would nag at me until I did.

Yep mate, were in good shape last time I checked

Good. Keep an eye on them, like every time you change the oil, or more often. Catch split boots early and save some money replacing just the boots rather than shagged drive shafts.

Just a quick question to satisfy my curiosity. Has anyone actually had a timing belt fail due to lack of maintenance? I've replaced heaps on Magna, Triton Lancer and Paj at their 100 thou, and they almost look as good as the day they went on.

They fail alright. There have been a few people in the last year or so who have asked for advice after a timing belt failure. You just don't know the condition till they break.