Hey guys just need some help from people who have experience with brakes on magnas.

1. I'm changing my Ralliart front brakes to 380 brakes.. Is this worth my time?

2. What are the best slotted rotors to fit the Front 380 brakes and rear ralliart brakes?

3. What is the best street pad that will also be made for both?
Looking at: -QFM HPX
-EBC Greenstuff
-Any other suggestions?

4.What is the best brake fluid to use?

Thanks alot in advance guys.

Why 380? You might as well go with front BREMBO ones as they are meant to bolt right up and accommodate a little larger rotor.

Fluid: I'm not sure but if its fresh and lines were flushed, stock should still be ok. Remember that some fluids can kill the seals.

If you wanna save mass then I heard (it might be incorrect) but DBA 5000 series are good and come in both slotted and drilled

1. If i get brembos i need rear ones too.
2. i'm 19 and not made of money like some people on these forums
3. I need to modify my wheels to accomodate them

..but i am still considering.

1. I'm changing my Ralliart front brakes to 380 brakes.. Is this worth my time?
DynamiteZerg went from the AWD front brakes (same as Ralliart) to the 380 brakes and thought it was a good upgrade. But then again, I went from the standard single piston brakes to the 380 setup and the difference wasn't as great as I was hoping.

Rotors are the same size between Ralliart and 380, it's just that the 380 rotor is marginally thicker, and the caliper/pad is larger.


2. What are the best slotted rotors to fit the Front 380 brakes and rear ralliart brakes?
DBA 4000s for the front.

For the rear, I'm not sure if any manufacturers do slotted rotors for the Ralliart rears? I had the feeling there was a group buy a few years ago, as DBA or RDA wouldn't make up an order unless they got a minimum amount.


3. What is the best street pad that will also be made for both?
Looking at: -QFM HPX
I'm a big fan of my QFM HPX. Low dust and noise for a performance pad, without sacrificing braking ability. I would definitely get them again.

Thanks for that red, Yeah only problem is i need The same discs front and rear so it looks the same (Otherwise i will cry)

Hmm really not sure about the 380 brakes but i really do want to upgrade.... I guess they are better then nothing.

Anybody got information on buying AWD rear discs and spacing to fit ralliarts?

Sounds pointless upgrade to me. Spend the money on braided lines front and rear, Motul 600 fluid, Ds2500 pads and decent rotors but not DBA 4000 as they are made in china now.

Brembos for the win though. Rear brakes do 20% of the braking so rear brembos are just wank factor. Much more sensible upgrade.

TRW GP600 Dot 4 Racing Brake Fluid

QFM pads (HPX or A1RM if you give them a hard time, but these are noisier and dustier.)


I thought the AWD and Ralliart rears were the same?

The only reason I would go to 380 fronts over the ralliarts, is if the ralliart calipers have died.

Best slotted rotors IMO are DBA, but again I'd only look at doing this when current rotors need replacing.


Personally I'd leave your existing rotors/calipers, get the TRW fluid and A1RM pads and the braided lines if money allows.
I reckon you'd notice a significant improvement.

Then if you want better results save for Brembo's.

Dave, Because they are made in china doesn't mean they are bad, they still get rave reviews.

Brett, The reason i was looking at 380 fronts is it's basicly a free upgrade, if I replace all my rotors anyway i can buy 380 fronts and sell my ralliart fronts with a difference of around $50

If its costing you nothing to upgrade the front then do it otherwise theres SFA between Ralliart and 380 fronts (ralliart caliper is cast iron Vs 380 alloy. Ralliart rotor is 294x24mm Vs 380 rotor 294x28mm)

Ralliart/AWD rear brakes will be fine with brembos on the front. Plenty of people have run that combo (myself included)

The alloy callipers will offer some weight saving especially at the front. I've also got the 380 front callipers and rotors. I have noticeda difference. Put it this way, each pad has 25% more surface area and the pistons are larger and provide more even pressure.

As for the differences between AWD and Ralliart rear rottors, the AWD ones have a taller hat height, but otherwise they are the same.

In my opinion the main "performance" difference between the ralliart and 380 front brakes will come down to pad/rotor choice... with the 4mm thicker 380 rotor allowing a bit better thermal capacity over the ralliart rotor.

Either setup will feel better than the stock magna single piston setup when peformance driving is involved.

Brett, The reason i was looking at 380 fronts is it's basicly a free upgrade, if I replace all my rotors anyway i can buy 380 fronts and sell my ralliart fronts with a difference of around $50[/QUOTE]

Ok, so if it's gonna cost $50 then yes, go for the 380 fronts (I beleive the 380 caliper has a greater swept area than ralliart as well, minor difference but still helps a tad).

I highly recommend GSL Rallysport in SA for brake stuff.
I'll shoot you a PM.

I've got Brembos on the front of my RA, and omg they stop well. I run QFM A1RM pads but have pulled them out as they are too noisy for daily driving, 4000 series slotted rottors for the win and i am pretty sure that they are still Aus manufactured and only the street series is offshore, don't take my word for it though.

I've got the standard RA brakes on at the moment while i rebuild and paint the Brembos and i miss the Brembos already, they are so much better.

There are some small benefits for upgrading from AWD to 380 if you can get it all cheap enough lol

GSL are in QLD BTW, I carry the same stock as GSL as far as pads go.

In my opinion the main "performance" difference between the ralliart and 380 front brakes will come down to pad/rotor choice... with the 4mm thicker 380 rotor allowing a bit better thermal capacity over the ralliart rotor.

Either setup will feel better than the stock magna single piston setup when peformance driving is involved.

100% agree with Jason here.

I've gone from Standard > 380 and got a massive difference
I then went to slotted ralliart ones with good pads and it had a nice improvement over the 380 ones

I would say that it wouldn't make much difference at all. Get some good pads and skim the rotors :)

Mine's an AWD. I've got DBA 4000 series slotted rotors on the front and DBA slotted rotors on the rear. Standard AWD/Ralliart calipers all the way round. I'm running ferodo silver series pads at the moment. better than the maxistops and bosch units I had on previously ( I don't recommend the bosch pads. they were awful- scored the daylights out of the fronts and were dusty as all heck, plus I had to get the fronts machined).

Honestly not a big difference between the DBA's and the stock AWD rotors.

I like the idea of the braided lines and racing brake fluid. My rotors are up for replacement when my pads wear out as they required max machining.

Seriously considering Brembos or 5000 series DBA's on the next pad change. Just a question regarding the brembos though- I know that you use the Lancer evo ones, but what mods are required to fit them? Also don't the brembos require wheels that have appropriate clearance for the calipers?

Oh and I'm running HRS pegasus 18 x 8's with, I think +35 offsets (I'll have to check up on that one). ;)

Braided lines are a waste of time and effort.

Braided lines are a waste of time and effort.

No they are not

No they are not

There has been numerous pressure tests done with snd without brsiding with negiigible deviation with pressures far exceeding those used for cars.

There has been numerous pressure tests done with snd without brsiding with negiigible deviation with pressures far exceeding those used for cars.

Do you have any links mate?

Here is one. (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Braided-Brake-Lines/A_2679/article.html)

There has been numerous pressure tests done with snd without brsiding with negiigible deviation with pressures far exceeding those used for cars.

with heat and airflow too? I'd imagine the metal would help conduct some heat away faster and the bigger surface area and more thermal conductive-ness to help spread the heat further from the caliper would aid a bit.

-wikipedia stuff:
"Brake fade caused by overheating brake fluid (often called Pedal Fade) can also be reduced through the use of thermal barriers that are placed between the brake pad and the brake caliper piston, these reduce the transfer of heat from the pad to the caliper and in turn hydraulic brake fluid. Some high-performance racing calipers already include such brake heat shields made from titanium or ceramic materials. However, it is also possible to purchase aftermarket titanium brake heat shields [6] that will fit your existing brake system to provide protection from brake heat. These inserts are precision cut to cover as much of the pad as possible. These Titanium Brake shims are an easy to install, low cost solution that are popular with racers and track day enthusiasts.

Another technique employed to prevent brake fade is the incorporation of fade stop brake coolers. Like titanium heat shields the brake coolers are designed to slide between the brake pad backing plate and the caliper piston. They are constructed from a high thermal conductivity, high yield strength metal composite which conducts the heat from the interface to a heat sink which is external to the caliper and in the airflow. They have been shown to decrease caliper piston temperatures by over twenty percent and to also significantly decrease the time needed to cool down.[7] Unlike titanium heat shields, however, the brake coolers actually transfer the heat to the surrounding environment and thus keep the pads cooler."

If its costing you nothing to upgrade the front then do it otherwise theres SFA between Ralliart and 380 fronts (ralliart caliper is cast iron Vs 380 alloy. Ralliart rotor is 294x24mm Vs 380 rotor 294x28mm)

Ralliart/AWD rear brakes will be fine with brembos on the front. Plenty of people have run that combo (myself included)

Thankyou alot mate, The only thing stopping me fron getting brembos is the fact I need to space my wheels another 3mm on the front at fit the calipers, Then ofcoarse i will have a +32 wheel and will need extended studs, then because of this i will need to slightly camber in my front wheels and cut my ralliart flares as much as possible to stop scrubbing.

Sorry guys but do you think slotted rotors on the rear really do much? Just saying this because the Rotors and required spacer to fit them will cost me over $400.

If their isn't much performance gain i won't bother, car will just look a little uneven.

Get your stock ones "slotted" thats what we did at MMAL for the show cars and then those rotors were used on test vehicles as well

Most of the braking is done at the front, no point getting slotted rotors on the rear in my opinion.

In saying that, if you ever have an option to upgrade to ralliart or AWD rear brakes, do it because there's a fair bit of difference in doing that rather than getting slotted ones on the rear.

Yes, big difference:

Stock FWD Brakes:
Front: Single floating piston 276mm ventilated rotors.
Rear: Single floating piston 258mm solid rotors.

AWD/Ralliart Brakes:
Front: Double floating pistons 294mm ventilated rotors.
Rear: Single floating piston 285mm ventilated rotors.

Most of the braking is done at the front, no point getting slotted rotors on the rear in my opinion.

In saying that, if you ever have an option to upgrade to ralliart or AWD rear brakes, do it because there's a fair bit of difference in doing that rather than getting slotted ones on the rear.

I already drive a Ralliart.

I already drive a Ralliart.

Then why is this stupid thread here? lol

Just get some nice brake pads, and slotted rotors on the front if you're feeling like you need to throw some money around. Be done with it.

Ahh, we all want more. If you can get more performance out of the car, then do it. Even if it is only for small gains. Hayden, your car is already a beast, it probably doens't need it but hey, it doesn't need to be that low either :D. Go for the Brembo's and slotted rotors, they will increase your braking performance and they look amazing.

Yeah i just don't want to be like hey wow 380 calipers... oh dam they don't do what i hoped now i have to get brembos.
I would rather go slightly overkill the first time and get it right.
Will be test fitting a wheel on 4myego soon to see if i need spacers for brembos.

Ahh, we all want more. If you can get more performance out of the car, then do it. Even if it is only for small gains. Hayden, your car is already a beast, it probably doens't need it but hey, it doesn't need to be that low either :D. Go for the Brembo's and slotted rotors, they will increase your braking performance and they look amazing.

Oh thanks mate, it's not very low. Hopefully coilovers soon will give it the stance it deserves. Then some brakes!

I thought my car was perfect but after a few weeks i always think of more things....

This --

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-Sport-330mm-8-Pot-Big-Brake-Kit-Evo-6-7-8-9-/200373443246?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ea7301aae

Or if you have big enough mags --

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-Sport-356mm-8-Pot-Big-Brake-Kit-Evo-6-7-8-9-/200625857017?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eb63ba1f9

I don't think you would need these unless you had a supercharger monster though. I think a normal AWD or Ralliart setup is nice for a mildly worked NA engine. Unless driving it really fast and want the extra security :)

This --

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-Sport-330mm-8-Pot-Big-Brake-Kit-Evo-6-7-8-9-/200373443246?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ea7301aae

Or if you have big enough mags --

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-Sport-356mm-8-Pot-Big-Brake-Kit-Evo-6-7-8-9-/200625857017?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eb63ba1f9

I don't think you would need these unless you had a supercharger monster though. I think a normal AWD or Ralliart setup is nice for a mildly worked NA engine. Unless driving it really fast and want the extra security :)

Those first ones are actually really tempting.... So bloody cheap.

I live at the top of maquarie pass... and i like to go down it fast. Basicly the only reason i want big brakes, that and the wank factor.

This --

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-Sport-330mm-8-Pot-Big-Brake-Kit-Evo-6-7-8-9-/200373443246?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ea7301aae

Anybody know why this wouldn't be a direct fit to a 3rd gen magna?

Anybody know why this wouldn't be a direct fit to a 3rd gen magna?

As stated. Rim size.

Chisholm has them on his supercharged track magna :ninja:

As stated. Rim size.

Chisholm has them on his supercharged track magna :ninja:

They don't look any bigger then evo brembos though?? Infact they look a little flatter near the base.

Edit: There is something fishy about this anyway, the rrp on those front brakes are over $2500

Hayden. I've got slotted rotors on the back of my AWD (284 mm vented) honestly. they don't make one iotta of difference in braking performance. As I mentioned earlier, slotted equivalents don't really offer any perceivable improvement as the stock ralliart/AWD) rotors are already pretty decent. They do look nicer though so worth getting if your rotors are worn out as they don't really cost alot more than the standard one's. I'd say that going brembos or similar is really what's needed for a definite improvement which is whee I'll be looking when my pads wear out probably next year (my front rotors are up for replacement by then too).

I fitted a wheel and a 10mm spacer was required for brembos, and i'm afraid wheels with a +25 offset on a magna scrub like a bitch.... So i am not gonna get brembos.

Gsl Rallysport have a sale this week where you buy a set of rotors for 20% off and whatever pads you want for them are 50% off. Going to see if 380 DBA 4000s come under the sale.

They dont have any, already checked lol nothing at all for the Magna's in stock.

If it is 20% off RRP, the set I have here still would come under that :) plus I have 380 QFM on the shelf, I know that QFM are out of backing plates at the moment so I dont know when the next lot will become available.

They dont have any, already checked lol nothing at all for the Magna's in stock.

If it is 20% off RRP, the set I have here still would come under that :) plus I have 380 QFM on the shelf, I know that QFM are out of backing plates at the moment so I dont know when the next lot will become available.

Mal i sent u an email regarding 380 DBA 4000 fronts and Qfm HPX pads and also if you have any 380 calipers for sale.

Done :D
http://i42.tinypic.com/eu3ite.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/117fbdz.jpg

Any difference over the AWD ones? :P

Any difference over the AWD ones? :P

Yes, although my old ones were screwed they are ALOT smoother to brake and less force is needed to pull up quickly, The pad size of these Hawk Ceramic pads is 50% again on the stock AWD pads i would think.

Car feels complete now, no more steering wheel shuddering and confidence when driving. Love it.

All I can say is that your car must be thrashed as there shouldn't be that much of a difference at all between the two.

All I can say is that your car must be thrashed as there shouldn't be that much of a difference at all between the two.

How does my brakes have anything to do with a car being thrashed? If you mean thrashed by braking hard all that is gonna do is wear pads and rotors out. My pads still had 50% meat on them after 60,000kms.

The reason there is a big difference is my rotors needed machining so when i hit the brakes hard they shook the entire car and wasn't very confidence inspiring.
The second reason is the brakes pull up more softly so it gives me more control over braking. Which i believe would be the larger pad size distributing the force of twin pistons more evenly.

Also on my previous brakes, half way down maquarie pass doing spirited driving i would run out of brakes if i could get away from the shudder, with this setup i'm hoping this won't happen but will find out soon enough.

You mad bro?

Why not just get new rotors if you think it was just the rotors?

badly worn brakes normally indicate a worn car, especially at 100,000kms if your calipers were the ones worn out :)

So neo, are you saying that the larger pistons and larger pad area does not make a difference at all? Each pad is 25% bigger and there are two pads per rotor. The larger pistons provide a more uniform pressure over the larger area. Don't forget the AWDs are a heavier car to begin with.

This --

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-Sport-330mm-8-Pot-Big-Brake-Kit-Evo-6-7-8-9-/200373443246?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ea7301aae

Or if you have big enough mags --

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-Sport-356mm-8-Pot-Big-Brake-Kit-Evo-6-7-8-9-/200625857017?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eb63ba1f9

I don't think you would need these unless you had a supercharger monster though. I think a normal AWD or Ralliart setup is nice for a mildly worked NA engine. Unless driving it really fast and want the extra security :)


They don't look any bigger then evo brembos though?? Infact they look a little flatter near the base.

Edit: There is something fishy about this anyway, the rrp on those front brakes are over $2500

Sorry its a bit late for you hayden, but i dont think theres anything fishy about that.

my fronts on my 380 were bought off ebay new for $1200 and they were the 356mm jobs.

So neo, are you saying that the larger pistons and larger pad area does not make a difference at all? Each pad is 25% bigger and there are two pads per rotor. The larger pistons provide a more uniform pressure over the larger area. Don't forget the AWDs are a heavier car to begin with.

Im with Neo. Pedal feel aside, the only difference will be on the race track. Both sets of brakes will haul the car up in the same distance in an emergency brake scenario, simply because the adhesion limits of the tyres are the ultimate deciding factor on stopping power in this siuation.

Caning your car down mac pass will indeed cook the brakes, but thats a deliberate situation resulting from what we could say is "spirited driving" where corner entry speeds are high and engine braking isnt taken advantage of

You mad bro?

Why not just get new rotors if you think it was just the rotors?

badly worn brakes normally indicate a worn car, especially at 100,000kms if your calipers were the ones worn out :)

Because rotors are almost 200 a side. i got 2 rotors, calipers and pads and braided likes for 450. Then can sell my ralliart brakes. cost about 300 all up. as if i wouldn't take it.

Trust me guys the new pads are massive. also 4mm thicker rotors. Kif had no fade down the pass with these and his car is 300kg more.

Trust me guys the new pads are massive. also 4mm thicker rotors. Kif had no fade down the pass with these and his car is 300kg more.

I reckon kif knows engine breaking

I reckon kif knows engine breaking

When you sit at 3k plus most of the way down you can't really shift down lol. i engine brake as much as it does naturally.

Hayden may you should of got QFM iPads for the front. 25% more stopping power:)

I've got QFM front and rears on my Brembos and they work good. Noisy on the font but part of that will be the slotted rotors. They are very dusty pads. Th QFMs are a racing pad so you expect that. Softer compound so should pull up better.

So neo, are you saying that the larger pistons and larger pad area does not make a difference at all? Each pad is 25% bigger and there are two pads per rotor. The larger pistons provide a more uniform pressure over the larger area. Don't forget the AWDs are a heavier car to begin with.

I've used both setups on my TF, there's basically no difference in it if we're not comparing to screwed rotors/calipers. As Dave has said, the only difference might be noticed in braking force is when the car is being thrashed.. I mean, track use.


Then can sell my ralliart brakes. cost about 300 all up. as if i wouldn't take it.

Hope you sell them for a fair price considering the rotors are so worn out as you're saying :)

I've used both setups on my TF, there's basically no difference in it if we're not comparing to screwed rotors/calipers. As Dave has said, the only difference might be noticed in braking force is when the car is being thrashed.. I mean, track use.



Hope you sell them for a fair price considering the rotors are so worn out as you're saying :)

They need machined...

The difference is noticeable in.everyday life thanks.... considering they are my brakes i think id know the difference. Cheers.

Get your stock ones "slotted" thats what we did at MMAL for the show cars and then those rotors were used on test vehicles as well

hey mate, how were they slotted? Im a cnc machinist and my run a 2008 Dahlih 2100 MCV vertical cnc mill (16.5 tons), i could easily machine slots into the rotors, what depth were the slots, what shape ie curved or strait, and were they machined in a relative position to the ventilation slots? if you remember lol, i need new rotors for the rear on my diamante, and would be a great chance to do it. as a perk i get to use the mill and tooling for home jobs if i want, such as the mivec badge i made. even cross drilling would be easy, but position relative to the ventilation slots would be important to avoid cracking, unless they do just random position for drill, which would probably explain the rep cross drilled rotors have for cracking. anyway would be much cheaper than buying slotted retail.

They need machined...

Maybe you should have done that instead :O


The difference is noticeable in.everyday life thanks.... considering they are my brakes i think id know the difference. Cheers.

Already said I've had both setups on my car. I know the difference too. sfa. Cheers. :ninja:

Maybe you should have done that instead :O



Already said I've had both setups on my car. I know the difference too. sfa. Cheers. :ninja:

Why would i do that

No you did not. You did not upgrade from stock ralliart brakes to 380calipers with
-dba4000s
-k sport braided lines
-custom hawk ceramic pads
-aftermarket brake fluid

You really can't pass judgment.
So why would i spend a few hundred machining rotors or buying newones when i got all this so cheap.

Hayden may you should of got QFM iPads for the front. 25% more stopping power:)

I've got QFM front and rears on my Brembos and they work good. Noisy on the font but part of that will be the slotted rotors. They are very dusty pads. Th QFMs are a racing pad so you expect that. Softer compound so should pull up better.

Remember Jason you have the a1rm pads, hpx are much different again with a lot less dust and noise.

Why would i do that

No you did not. You did not upgrade from stock ralliart brakes to 380calipers with
-dba4000s
-k sport braided lines
-custom hawk ceramic pads
-aftermarket brake fluid

You really can't pass judgment.
So why would i spend a few hundred machining rotors or buying newones when i got all this so cheap.

Ksport lines go on Ksport calipers or Hydraulic handbrakes. Yours (previously Foozrcools) I believe were made by Brakequip Australia.

Ksport lines go on Ksport calipers or Hydraulic handbrakes. Yours (previously Foozrcools) I believe were made by Brakequip Australia.
No, they are K sport lines, I opened the packet when I got them. They had never been opened and said K sport all over them.....

You didn't use them on yours? :|

You didn't use them on yours? :|

His new brakes came with new lines... he has these on these brakes before he gave them to me. So yeah they are k sport.