Hey guys, I suspect my heater core is leaking, does it smell when it does? And what does it smell like?

Cheers.

Best thing to check is the carpet ont he pass side nearest the tunnel, if is leakign this is where it will be showing

Had a bit of a feel (didn't get time to properly feel it) and it would appear that it is damp. Damn. How long can I go without treatment/repair?

Depends on how long you want to put up with the smell and soggy carpet - which will start putting condensation on the inside of the glass if the weather is hot.

There is also a chance the drips will get into the ECU.

You can bypass the heater pipes inside the engine compartment as a temporary fix, but then you have no heater.

Good opportunity to do a tutorial on this when you fix it - dash out, etc.

Yep - it seems your heater core has given way. If you're not going to fix the leak anytime soon - then at the very least - take out the passenger side dash panels and cover the ecu with a plastic bag. You don't want your ecu to be fried from the coolant.

Taking out a dash is not as hard as it may seem. I've done it multiple times. Its time consuming and tedious but does not require any special skills other than just being able to use a socket set and a few screw drivers.

If you're going to take out the dash yourself then do yourself a favour and take pictures of everything and mark every bolt you remove. You want to make sure you can identify where eat bolt needs to go back into place. Also - take the extra time to remove the centre console & shifter assembly and even the front seats. The dash has two sets of looms - a main dash loom and a instrument cluster loom. The main dash loom is tied to the dash support bar (attached to chassis of car) and the instrument cluster loom is tucked behind the instrument cluster and connects up to the dash loom behind the centre console & radio so undo all connections in that area first. Be gentle and don't force anything too hard.

Yeah, from what I can gather it's not going to be too hard. My ECU has plastic already on it, so I take it that will do enough to protect it.

I figure I might has well get my awesome conversions done while I'll have the dash out... good time to do a climate control converison, maybe even a KH cluster aswell.

Is there anything I can do about the smell, or will that hang around until I fix it?

What's actually involved in doing the repair?

Just put anouther piece of plastic/cover over the ecu just to be sure. ECU's are not cheap. Just keep in mind - if you destroy one you'll need to get a new BEM and keypack as well.

I was about to say that if you're removing the dash then considering doing some upgrades and having some awesome features. An upgrade to a Verada KH will enable you to have things like a a blackout dash, climate control, clock, footwell lights, cruise control and power windows (if you have the door looms) etc of course you'll need other parts to fully get all the features though. (Which I'm sure you know)

Re: smell. There isn't heaps you can do but a steam clean using one of those wet & dry cleaning machines at your local car wash or bunnings/coles/woolies (hire). You may have to look into getting a new carpet and underlay but the steam clean should get most of it out. In the meatime get a good air freshener and/or tape a tarp/plastic cover against the wall of the footwell to collect the dripping coolant.

To repair the problem you need to replace the heater core and seals. The heater core is located next to the blower and is covered with a plastic housing. In order to get the housing off you will also need to remove the central heating unit & duct. The core is connected to the coolant lines in the engine bay so these need to be disconnected as well. You will need to plug these lines to prevent heaps of coolant from flowing out. Replace the o-rings while you're at it. A full coolant flush would probably not be a bad idea either.

Yeah, I'll probably get new carpet, it's old and stained anyway.

I went for a drive in the rain tonight (I love driving in the rain) and decided to go boating in my car. Water didn't seem any more than 20 cm as an absolute max. No this wasn't purposeful, nor dangerous. simply puddled water on the corner of the road. Anywho, got home, decided to check to make sure water didn't get in. In the passenger footwell, there was some fresh water droplets on the carpet. Hoping that all the water that I noticed earlier today was possibly left over from last night (also went driving in the rain, although half of that was spent inadvertantly aquaplaning on a freeway). Removed the glovebox assembly, and the gromets leading to inside the guard were completely dry. I noticed that there was water droplets on the bottom of the big black unit behind the glovebox. I can only assume this is where the heater core is leaking? Or am I lucky and this is condensation or something harmless? From what I could see, the ECU is still high and dry, albeit covered in dust.

You may have a combination of both water coming in and the heater core leaking but I can guarantee you have a heater core leaking problem. Behind the glove box is two units - on the lhs is the "blower unit" that controls recirc or exterior air cycling through the cabin and next to it, on the rhs, is the heater core and its surround known as the "Cooler unit".

You should be able to smell the coolant. Its not a substance that has no smell. Open your radiator cap and smell the coolant in there and compare to the smell of the carpet inside the cabin. I'm about 99% sure you have a heater core leak. To be sure, if you've still got your glovebox removed, then on toward the right hand side of the opening, on the "Cooling unit" you should see a small 2'x1' rectangle piece held in by a screw. Remove that piece (inside of it will be like a comb) and through the opening you should see the heater core itself. Push a rag in there, right to the end, and see if there's any coolant inside. You again should be able to smell it as well.

By the way if you need a new carpet then I've got a grey one I'm going to very soon rip out of my car. I'll be giving a nice steam clean before I sell it off.

You may have a combination of both water coming in and the heater core leaking but I can guarantee you have a heater core leaking problem. Behind the glove box is two units - on the lhs is the "blower unit" that controls recirc or exterior air cycling through the cabin and next to it, on the rhs, is the heater core and its surround known as the "Cooler unit".

You should be able to smell the coolant. Its not a substance that has no smell. Open your radiator cap and smell the coolant in there and compare to the smell of the carpet inside the cabin. I'm about 99% sure you have a heater core leak. To be sure, if you've still got your glovebox removed, then on toward the right hand side of the opening, on the "Cooling unit" you should see a small 2'x1' rectangle piece held in by a screw. Remove that piece (inside of it will be like a comb) and through the opening you should see the heater core itself. Push a rag in there, right to the end, and see if there's any coolant inside. You again should be able to smell it as well.

By the way if you need a new carpet then I've got a grey one I'm going to very soon rip out of my car. I'll be giving a nice steam clean before I sell it off.

Opened what I believe was that little cover, it would appear liquid has collected in the bottom and dried. Guessing it's definitely the seals then.

What condition is that carpet in?

On topic, next step, getting to the seals and replacing them. Who wants to walk me through that? :P

Opened what I believe was that little cover, it would appear liquid has collected in the bottom and dried. Guessing it's definitely the seals then.


Sorry to hear - that sucks.



On topic, next step, getting to the seals and replacing them. Who wants to walk me through that? :P


I already did ;) Look above ↑ or below ↓ Do you have the service manual? If so - go to Section 52 & 55 to see all the parts of the dash and how they all come together. As I said earlier, you will need to remove the coolant lines inside the engine bay that connect to the heater core. These seals have likely given way and gone hard.




To repair the problem you need to replace the seals. Heater core wouldn't be a bad idea to replace either. The heater core is located next to the blower and is covered with a plastic housing. In order to get the housing off you will also need to remove the central heating unit & duct. The core is connected to the coolant lines in the engine bay so these need to be disconnected as well. You will need to plug these lines to prevent heaps of coolant from flowing out. Replace the o-rings while you're at it. A full coolant flush would probably not be a bad idea either.

Good luck with it. If you need some pictures from the service manual then let me know otherwise try and see if anyone has uploaded it recently. If I found a host that would host the files for free then I'd upload it but I can't find one.

What condition is that carpet in?


Carpet is in good condition. There's no tears or signs of wear. There is a small 50cent spot near the drivers seat where some car wash spilt, and admittedly its a bit dirty now, but I'll be giving it a good wet & dry steam clean before I sell it and it should come up like new. I rarely have passengers in the car so the back and pass. side carpet has mostly been untouched for the last 2-3 years.

Carpet is in good condition. There's no tears or signs of wear. There is a small 50cent spot near the drivers seat where some car wash spilt, and admittedly its a bit dirty now, but I'll be giving it a good wet & dry steam clean before I sell it and it should come up like new. I rarely have passengers in the car so the back and pass. side carpet has mostly been untouched for the last 2-3 years.

Mm, might consider the carpet.

Ive removed the dash and that top centre vent, the one that just lifts up and pops out. Where from there? I undid the two screws at the back of it but it doesn't move, I'm guessing the other two to the left need to be un done? Cheers for the help so far :)

Good work removing the dash! Its quite a big job - you've been busy :)

There's nuts on the bottom of those black boxes that need to be removed as well. Here's the steps and diagram on how to remove the heater core.

http://imghostr.me/images/7c4OG.jpg
http://imghostr.me/images/qJZxv.jpg

Hope this helps.

Ugh. I am having trouble in the last stretch getting to the core itself, and removing the hoses in the engine bay.

Can anyone elaborate on removing the big black climate unit or gaining access to the core. I'm sure I'm missing something. But Ive undone the 4 bolts across the top and it wont budge.

And are there any tricks to removing the heater hoses on the engine side of the firewall?

Disregard previous post. Eventually got it all out. Seals were infact leaking. Have to go and buy a torx set, as I can't find it :(

Where exactly am I supposed to insert the O-ring? between the black plastic curve pipe (the one that connects to the hose in the engine bay) and the square metal piece on the core?

Glad to hear you got the heater core out. As you probably discovered you need to take the water aluminium piping out and then you can unbolt the heater core. Inside the car - did you manage to get the black surround off the core? Have you inspected the core?

The o-rings need to be fitted where the piping joints are. Basically any connection between the aluminum hoses and the heater core to ensure those seals don't give way again. Make sure you use some compressor oil as well. Here's what the manual recommends:

http://imghostr.me/images/aO9H.jpg

Glad to hear you got the heater core out. As you probably discovered you need to take the water aluminium piping out and then you can unbolt the heater core. Inside the car - did you manage to get the black surround off the core? Have you inspected the core?

The o-rings need to be fitted where the piping joints are. Basically any connection between the aluminum hoses and the heater core to ensure those seals don't give way again. Make sure you use some compressor oil as well. Here's what the manual recommends:

http://imghostr.me/images/aO9H.jpg

I think you are looking at the wrong picture there. SUN PAG 56 is used in the airconditioner circuit,not the heater circuit.

I replaced the seals, put the core back into the unit, and put the unit back where it belongs. But goddamnit, I'm having trouble getting the clamps back on. Is there a special way of doing it? Otherwise I'm going down to bunnings and I'm just going to buy those plumbing clamps, where you screw a screw and it tightens, and I'll just leave the original clamp just hanging there.

I can't wait to put the whole bloody dash back in...

Buy a pair of nail pincers.
Otherwise ditch the cheap clamps and buy stainless steel hose clapms to replace.
Gerry

Can't get the damn clamps on :(

Okay, clamps on. Now I went to start the car and it just keeps clicking over and doesn't start, which would be the immobiliser? I haven't put the dash in yet so everything is disconnected as I wash just trying to make sure the core isn't leaking. Is the dash being absent and the connectors in the middle not being connected the reason for it to not start? I don't want to put the dash back in if it still wont work and ill need to take it back out.

The clicking is probably due to half the dash being out as you suggest. You may have caused some semi-permanent fault codes to be registered when trying to start with dash out - airbag is one for sure (if fitted).

Have you connected the instrument loom to the ingition barrel? There's a cooper ring that goes around the key barrel that needs power in order to deactivate the immobilser. You don't have to put the dash back to get the car started but have all the looms connected.

Sorry not clicking, it just turns over. It just goes on and on as if there's no fuel.

Sorry not clicking, it just turns over. It just goes on and on as if there's no fuel.

Car will start without the dash and Kovac, the immob does not plug into the instrument loom ffs

In order for the car to start, provided you have plugged in the main loom back in the centre, you need ig barrel connected (no reason to take off for dash out anyway), BEM and ECU, provided you did not unplug anything else you will have all that is needed to get the car to start. The click you are getting sounds more like your battery is flat as the engine will still crank even with no immob

"Sorry not clicking, it just turns over. It just goes on and on as if there's no fuel"

This is describing the immobiliser working.

As Mal said above.
Make sure that the ring in the clear plastic bezel around the ignition switch barrel is connected via its 2 way connector, BEM obviously connected then you should get a start.
Gerry

Ah cheers guys. However It must have been something I unplugged during the dash removal, as I connected 3 connectors (a center connector, one into the panel above the fusebox, and the grey plug) and it started up fine, thankfully. Now I'm just putting the old girl back together, and I can't see any leaks yet either :)