Hi all,

I've most threads on extractors for 380s, but was wanting a few lingering questions answered.

1. Approximate/known power increase at the fly and wheel?

2. Obviously RPW are only ones available, how much work is needed to fit these?

3. Are they likely to fall apart?

4. Approximate cost from personal experience of getting custom 'mandrel-bent' (did I get that right?) extractors made? Any additional benefits of these over normal ones?

5. What further upgrades are required to get the most power possible out of the extractors? Approximate costs, etc.


Thanks everyone.

If you do a full exhaust system on a 380 and extractors that have no cats therefore changing the emissions you can gain around 30kw or so, to the best of my knowledge.

Hi all,

I've most threads on extractors for 380s, but was wanting a few lingering questions answered.

1. Approximate/known power increase at the fly and wheel? Approw 20kw atf & 15kw atw

2. Obviously RPW are only ones available, how much work is needed to fit these? Not sure about the new ones but I have heard build quality is crap, mine are the originals & have no probs what so ever

3. Are they likely to fall apart? Possibly over time from reports I've heard

4. Approximate cost from personal experience of getting custom 'mandrel-bent' (did I get that right?) extractors made? Any additional benefits of these over normal ones? No idea but I might be doing this at some point as they are a horse power restriction so my engine builder says (with the blower anyway)

5. What further upgrades are required to get the most power possible out of the extractors? Approximate costs, etc. If staying N/A just upgrade the rear muffler to straight through. Piggyback will give you about another 6kw atw & smooth out afr's & driveability but not really worth the $/kw value unless you just want the most you can get out of it.


Thanks everyone.

Answers in red above.

Agree with Foozr.

I also have one of the early RPW sets and no problems with quality so far.
They bolted up easily with no hassles.
Not so sure about the later versions though.
I've had minor problems with the front bank pipe rubbing & rattling against the rear bank pipe where it passes underneath, when cold. Fixed with a pair of 90 degree angle brackets welded on to hold the two pipes slightly apart.
Stormie and I both have problems with the two flexi joints rubbing together.
With mine it's just a minor rattle & vibration when dead cold, goes away after 30 seconds .
My exhaust bloke had a look at it today and said there was nothing he could do to fix it as it's too close to the Y join (where the front bank joins the rear bank and goes into one pipe).
To get a bit more from the extractors it's worth swapping out the third "white brick" cat for a higher flowing cat. I've got a 200 CPI one, works well, apparently just legal whereas a 100 CPI one isn't.
Be warned though, the combination of RPW extractors & hi-flo cat results in a bit of resonance at certain revs, in my case around 1900 RPM, and I'm still chasing a way to get rid of it.
Got my exhaust guy to fit a new 22" by 6" round central muffler today (replacing two in-line 12" by 5" oval mufflers in the central tunnel) and if anything the resonance is worse!
He reckons it's the combo of the extractors and the hi-flo cat causing the resonance, and I probably need to go back to a more restrictive cat, say 250 or 300 CPI, to cure it.

KJ.

KJ I have no resonance at all in mine but I have some custom short straight throughs up front & the HUGE straight through Supercats at the rear .....

Hi all,

I've most threads on extractors for 380s, but was wanting a few lingering questions answered.

1. Approximate/known power increase at the fly and wheel?

2. Obviously RPW are only ones available, how much work is needed to fit these?

3. Are they likely to fall apart?

4. Approximate cost from personal experience of getting custom 'mandrel-bent' (did I get that right?) extractors made? Any additional benefits of these over normal ones?

5. What further upgrades are required to get the most power possible out of the extractors? Approximate costs, etc.


Thanks everyone.

Ill PM you the details of the guy to contact if you dont want to deal with RPW...



Agree with Foozr.

I also have one of the early RPW sets and no problems with quality so far.
They bolted up easily with no hassles.
Not so sure about the later versions though.
I've had minor problems with the front bank pipe rubbing & rattling against the rear bank pipe where it passes underneath, when cold. Fixed with a pair of 90 degree angle brackets welded on to hold the two pipes slightly apart.
Stormie and I both have problems with the two flexi joints rubbing together.
With mine it's just a minor rattle & vibration when dead cold, goes away after 30 seconds .
My exhaust bloke had a look at it today and said there was nothing he could do to fix it as it's too close to the Y join (where the front bank joins the rear bank and goes into one pipe).
To get a bit more from the extractors it's worth swapping out the third "white brick" cat for a higher flowing cat. I've got a 200 CPI one, works well, apparently just legal whereas a 100 CPI one isn't.
Be warned though, the combination of RPW extractors & hi-flo cat results in a bit of resonance at certain revs, in my case around 1900 RPM, and I'm still chasing a way to get rid of it.
Got my exhaust guy to fit a new 22" by 6" round central muffler today (replacing two in-line 12" by 5" oval mufflers in the central tunnel) and if anything the resonance is worse!
He reckons it's the combo of the extractors and the hi-flo cat causing the resonance, and I probably need to go back to a more restrictive cat, say 250 or 300 CPI, to cure it.

KJ.

Yes be careful when installing you might need to fit the sections up a few times to ensure that there will be no rubbing/vibrating/rattling between the banks. Thats my afternoons project today. bought some silicone and hose clamps to try to get rid of mine...

KJ i have a 200cpi cat and my resonance was pretty bad then my exhaust guy added a 5" cylindrical Magnaflow muffler in the tunnel, instant cure.

Eh Stormie, tell me more about that 5" cylindrical Magnaflow muffler! How long? Part number?

KJ.

The front bank are from the old magna kit and were welded by a robot and of consistent quality.
The rears are done by hand and are of poor weld quality.

Pull the driver's side driveshaft out if you want to do it without lotsa swearing.


30kw gain? BS

Well probs 20-25 kw gain at the fly in an auto.

If the RPWs were bought, would there be a sure-fire way to increase their quality before installing?

If not, how long before they start to deteriorate and need replacing?

Also, any other thoughts on mandrel-bent?

Am going to email RPW about warranties, guarantees, etc. If it is weld quality, then I presume I could get a welder to take a look before I put it in and make sure that it is all tip top?

I remember seeing someone coat their extractors in paint/something? It was ages ago and I can't remember why. Anyone want to shed some light?

Also, I've noticed that people are saying that RPW isn't good quality anymore - how do you now this? Are there other people who have bought them more recently and found they are of bad quality? Just curious as to where this information is coming from.

You ceramic coat extractors for engine bay heat, only needed if running FI

I would seriously just go get some extractors made up at a good shop. Will cost about the same after you get them checked and re-welded etc.

Sorry i realised you neeed cats in your extractors, this will cost way to much.

Am going to email RPW about warranties, guarantees, etc. If it is weld quality, then I presume I could get a welder to take a look before I put it in and make sure that it is all tip top?

I remember seeing someone coat their extractors in paint/something? It was ages ago and I can't remember why. Anyone want to shed some light?

Also, I've noticed that people are saying that RPW isn't good quality anymore - how do you now this? Are there other people who have bought them more recently and found they are of bad quality? Just curious as to where this information is coming from.

I had my extractors ceramic coated before fitting. as hayden says keeps engine bay temperatures Way down. not cheap though, think it was between 450 and 550 to have the set done.

Sorry i realised you neeed cats in your extractors, this will cost way to much.

Hayden, the main point of putting extractors on a 380 is to get rid of the two pre-cats in the stock exhaust manifolds. They are the biggest blockage in the exhaust system, the rest of it flows OK. Not great, but OK.

Just to add a bit of interest here, I have been researching exhaust pipe size V's cfm flow V's max horsepower. Mitsubishi would also have looked at this during the manufacturing stage, & basically a 2 1/2" pipe will flow around 234 HP which is 175KW ..... surprise surprise the output of a 380 motor.

The collector on the RPW extaractors is 2 1/2 inch also & I run a 2 1/2 pipe before splitting to 2 x 2 1/4" pipes. For my blown car an upgrade to 2 x 2 1/4" pipes from the headers right through (get rid of the single collector) will allow my exhaust to then flow 370HP.

My engine builder has already told me my exhaust is to small & this research confirms it. Probably doesn't matter much at all for a N/A 380 but just saying .....

Probably not a bad idea to go and get some quotes to get a set made up.
As I said though. I haven't heard a first hand experience of someone who has recently bought RPW and had quality issues. I'd love to hear from them what they are like.
I asked about warranties/guarantee in the email to RPW so I'll see what I get back.

Hayden, the main point of putting extractors on a 380 is to get rid of the two pre-cats in the stock exhaust manifolds. They are the biggest blockage in the exhaust system, the rest of it flows OK. Not great, but OK.

If you kill the cats all together you will get engine light though.
If you don't care about cats just put some HM ralliart magna headers on and change the start of the catback to suit. Much cheaper.

Probably not a bad idea to go and get some quotes to get a set made up.
As I said though. I haven't heard a first hand experience of someone who has recently bought RPW and had quality issues. I'd love to hear from them what they are like.
I asked about warranties/guarantee in the email to RPW so I'll see what I get back.

Blackstar had a set of the later RPW extractors & the welds split at the manifold so he took them off & went back to the stock manifolds.

:( lame.
Why must it be so hard D:
Would headers from a US 6G75 fit? If someone in America makes them I may look into that.

:( lame.
Why must it be so hard D:
Would headers from a US 6G75 fit? If someone in America makes them I may look into that.

Just use 6g74 headers????? and adjust the start of your pipe to fit????

Or doesn't it work that way? lol

When I asked Mal the same question, he said they don't fit.
My car was on the hoist at the time and he pointed to the frame of the car and said 'This is in the way'. Not much I can do about that :(

I thought the same thing because I know people who put 6G75 into magnas can use same extractors. Frame of the car is different.


On the topic of welds. I may get into contact with Blackstar and ask if it was just the welds. If it was, there may be the possibility of getting the welds redone/checked over by a decent welder when I get them.

I still believe it would be best to get some magna extractors and get somebody to cut and modify them to fit. Not sure on the exact work involved but it would be pretty cool.

Wouldn't bother cutting up a perfectly good set of Magna extractors. By the time I paid for them and paid for the labor/extra materials, I might as well just get a set custom made out of diamond.

I emailed RPW a few weeks ago. Got a response today.

------------------------------------------------------

Sorry for the late reply your email had been placed in my spam folder which
I only found today.

The warranty on the units is 12 months / 20,000km. The only issue we have
ever had has been with LPG systems which if run too rich, can run very hot
and damage the extractors.

I have fitted many of these in house and not experienced any of those issues
with the length of the exhaust. There may have been one or two incorrectly
made but since they are made in batches of 10 at a time, it is not something
I have seen myself. If such a situation existed, in all honesty, its very
easy to extend the flex pipe but cutting and welding and bit of 2 1/2" pipe
onto it, or we would send out a replacement flex pipe.

Freight to Victoria would be around $45.00

-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Weaver [mailto:sam_weaver@me.com]
Sent: Saturday, 24 March 2012 9:52 AM
To: rpwinfo@iinet.net.au
Subject: 380 Extractors

Hi,

I'm emailing regarding the '3-1 Race Design Kit - 6G75' found on your
website here:
http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypa
ge.tpl&product_id=1354&category_id=285&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

I have a few questions regarding this product:

1. What guarantee/warranty does the product come with?

2. I have been told by people who have bought this product that their
mechanic had trouble fitting it as the point where the flex pipe is meant to
bolt onto the flange of the catalytic convertor was actually 10-15mm short.
If this was to happen when I purchased the product and it was unable to be
fitted to my car, would I be eligible for a full refund.

3. I live in Victoria. What would be an approximate cost of shipping to
here?


Thanks for your time.

Sam.


------------------------------------------------------


The interesting thing about that is I've read what Blackstar said about these extractors and he runs LPG. I didn't mention that at all but RPW did. In my opinion that is a plus 1 for RPW.

In regards to the length, again a plus 1. Lots of people would flat out deny that anything like that would happen. He has however, said that there is the possibility it could happen, then told me the options if it does.

Opinions?

I think you should just do it. Everyone talks down on rpw, give them a chance to be known for making something decent. You've done the right things by asking these questions. Will these extractors cause CEL?

I don't think they will as they have the extended oxy bungs ready to go that prevent them.
I'll keep exploring options as I am currently too poor to purchase them (just got a new head unit). But to be honest I'm probably going to give them a go. No-one (besides Blackstar) has been able to give me an actual account of these being a bad quality product.

And here goes Dave Thomas again with his BS.....


The only issue we have
ever had has been with LPG systems which if run too rich, can run very hot
and damage the extractors.

If you run too much fuel you run cooler Lean makes hot FFS Personally I would rather keep my factory system there or get a custom set made myself as at least then I can trust what I have on the car

As for Wankstar, he would complain if they came wrapped in $100 bills and then he would still claim that they were stolen, sold to the arabs and then taken by Nato that is of course after denying having them in the first place

Hi. Just re-read this thread again. Are the "original RPW" extractors that are discussed here the same ones Liverpool Exhaust make in-house? (which you could only buy if fitted on the spot). Are these the ones that aren't very good quality? Are there any other options, brands?

yep those are the ones, the reason you could only get them if they were fitted up was rpw had distribution rights.
not sure if liverpool are still making them, vaguely remember about them changing suppliers.
Liverpool can and do still make them, as the ones i can get came from them via an intermediary.

Forgot to ask last time, is there a cost saving in ordering and fitting them (Liverpool Exhaust 380 headers) there, instead of ordering through RPW?
And also, if anyone has fitted these recently, are the 02 sensors & CEL thing still an issue? I recall someone saying it was all okay now (or whenever that was).
EDIT: Just read on RPW website that they have a kit for the oxygen sensor will prevents the CEL problem that early users faced, so I guess that's sorted out then.

Has anyone received a quote for a set of custom extractors, and if so what were they quoting?

So we are going to get a gain of 30Kw at the fly and 15 ATW

Did people run the extractors without replacing the rear cat?

So we are going to get a gain of 30Kw at the fly and 15 ATW

Did people run the extractors without replacing the rear cat?

Mecha,

My experience with the RPW extractors is roughly 15kw gain at the fly and 10 at the wheels. But mine's a manual, with an auto it would be closer to 8kw at the wheels.

And yes, you need to replace the rear cat as it's a 'dummy'.

Mecha,

My experience with the RPW extractors is roughly 15kw gain at the fly and 10 at the wheels. But mine's a manual, with an auto it would be closer to 8kw at the wheels.

And yes, you need to replace the rear cat as it's a 'dummy'.

15/10 kw gain?

Do you have the dyno report to prove that?

15/10 kw gain?

Do you have the dyno report to prove that?

Not really.

I had twin exhausts put on at the same time as the extractors.

A few months later I had it dyno'ed by SKR, which showed 183kw atw.

In hindsight this was almost certainly a false or exagerated result, I suspect Steve Knight set the wrong parameters.

A few months later I had SKR fit & tune my Chiptorque Xede piggyback ECU, and that time it showed 170kw atw. It should have shown more than the first time but it showed a fair bit less, hence my suspicion that the first reading was bogus.

Then just over a year ago I ran it on the dyno at Classic Performance, and it showed only 153kw atw. I think that was a 'bad day' for my car though, it just didn't feel as strong as normal.

Hence my sig!

If the proposed SA October dyno day goes ahead I'll try again and maybe I can find some of the lost killerwasps. It's been running strong again lately.

So no really comparable 'before and after' dyno runs, let alone for just the extractors.

My 15/10 figures were based on what I have read on these forums and my 'seat of the bum' dyno. It feels like it has between 20kw and 30kw atw more than stock, and I put about one third of that down to the extractors.

My car when N/A had 18KW ATW more than Knotched's on the same dyno & the only difference being I had the extractors ..... both auto etc.

I wont be getting RPW extractors then

I wont be getting RPW extractors then

Why? 18KW ATW not enough? LO

No 18Kw's is good

but I might be getting something better

Have you managed to find another supplier?

Steve knight Dyno does some funny things. Dyno dynamics can pretty much make it say what you want.

My car when N/A had 18KW ATW more than Knotched's on the same dyno & the only difference being I had the extractors ..... both auto etc.

so...another 18kw atw with just an exhaust manifold change...(i would think that to get another 25kw atf would make the ecu go spastic?)

you sure there wasn't anything else...maybe retune and more fuel via bigger injectors? :)

so...another 18kw atw with just an exhaust manifold change...(i would think that to get another 25kw atf would make the ecu go spastic?)

you sure there wasn't anything else...maybe retune and more fuel via bigger injectors? :)

No.

My car was first dynoed by ChipTorque at the Goldcoast head office. There was a problem because they used the wrong pin for power to the Exede unit. I then went to Foozr's tuner who also dynoed my car. They were both within 1kw.
At the time my car dynoed 147kw with Exede and Foozr's was 165kw (from memory, he'll correct me in a minute) with the Unichip Q.

^^^^ my mistake 16KW, mine was 163 ATW.

The ecu doesn't go "spastic" when you produce more power as it learns & compensates. We both have piggyback ecu's to tidy up the AFR's & drivability.

Power figures quoted here were a while ago before I put the bigger injectors in & supercharger etc but our cars had the same mods except the extractors. All the power comes from uncorking the restrictive precats which are part of the stock manifolds not from just the extractors as such alone.

Should just cut the cats off and weld straight pipe where they were? Then add a hi-flow further down the line?

No.

My car was first dynoed by ChipTorque at the Goldcoast head office. There was a problem because they used the wrong pin for power to the Exede unit. I then went to Foozr's tuner who also dynoed my car. They were both within 1kw.
At the time my car dynoed 147kw with Exede and Foozr's was 165kw (from memory, he'll correct me in a minute) with the Unichip Q.

So Exede and tune on both your cars?
Then one with extractors and one without?

So Exede and tune on both your cars?
Then one with extractors and one without?

Mine had a Unichip Q & tune but yes same thing, same dyno.

Mine had a Unichip Q & tune but yes same thing, same dyno.


My point is that extractors on their own may not necessarily give the same results as you got.

Someone needs to do a dyno run before and after just the extractor mod on a stock car.

what is the size cat needed I know 200CPI but what diameter?

going to pop headers on at my next service so would like to get all the gear before hand

What else will I need

what is the size cat needed I know 200CPI but what diameter?

going to pop headers on at my next service so would like to get all the gear before hand

What else will I need

2 1/2 inch will bolt straight up although I have a 3" but obviously I have a bit more flow than the average 380 :badgrin:

Bottom O2 sensors need to be relocated behind said cat as well .......

what is the size cat needed I know 200CPI but what diameter?

going to pop headers on at my next service so would like to get all the gear before hand

What else will I need

Who have you decided to get them through? Let us know how they go once you get them on?

Get what through who???

Supplier. Cos as far as I know, only RPW (by Liverpool Exhaust) make them, unless you can get them custom made elsewhere.

Mine came from TMR/MMAL.

Mine came from TMR/MMAL.

De-cat standard headers?

they are from the TMR220 Build 00

they are from the TMR220 Build 00


There can only be one man that provided that.

WTF? TMR220 was a lancer wasnt it? meaning doesnt have 6cyl engine, meaning they wont go on a 380? am i missing something obvious?

Yeah woah, let's hold up a second. Have they been taken OFF that car. Or did you get them made from the casts (are headers cast, I have no idea) of the set that were on the car? Stop being so ambiguous :D

WTF? TMR220 was a lancer wasnt it? meaning doesnt have 6cyl engine, meaning they wont go on a 380? am i missing something obvious?
Yep correct, Mecha is gonna have a spare engine pipe on one side & the other bank with screamer pipes obviously .......

Also, I'd say TMR headers would have still have the pre-cats included, as removing them is actually illegal even though plenty here have done it (and I've considered it strongly too), so a prototype (production hopeful) TMR car surely wouldn't have illegal cat-less headers... so unless I'm missing something, those headers would be about the same the ones already on your 380.

Still asking why people just don't weld pipe where the cats were like the race 380s?

I'd consider doing that if I could find a spare set to do it with. Just in case. Also, would the welds cause irregularities in the metal that would affect air flow?

Not if it is welded correctly. Same as welding any exhaust piping id imagine

TMR220 was the TMR concept 380 build no 00

I have the headers from that car.

It has no precats and is a nice bit of kit

piiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiix! :pleasesign:

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg164/Mechawombat/20120928_203020.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg164/Mechawombat/20120928_203006.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg164/Mechawombat/20120928_202854.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg164/Mechawombat/20120928_202911.jpg

they are beautiful!

There can only be one man that provided that.

Yep Neil Byers ( the ABSOLUTE CHAMPION that he is) Gave them to a CHAMPION MATE of mine who then passed them on to me

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a116/gavzsri/likebutton.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a116/gavzsri/likebutton.jpg

yup I http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a116/gavzsri/likebutton.jpg too

Yep they just look like the stockos minus the cats with pipe welded on ....

That is exactly what i suggested Haha. Won't ever give the same gain as proper extractors but will definitely help

Considering the Precats choke the system I expect a gain.

no. we dont know that the precats choke the system. all we know is everyone thats replaced the stocks with rpw jobs has gotten a gain. you will get a gain but theres no guarantee it will be anything like the full aftermarket extractors. might be better might be worse. (id suspect worse.)
Great pickup though.
suggest you might want to check facts re TMR220. is certainly a lancer. the TMR380 concept was named as such.

my bad I read my original article wrong the Evo was launch the same day called the 220.

Are you going to have a chance to dyno before/after Mecha?

nah we do know they get about 130kw with precat so one day i might chuck it on when I chuck these on

Aftermarket ones have a better flowing pipe design, but these should still have some gain with the cats gone*. Good luck fitting them. Get some dyno results before and after, if possible.
* and much cheaper than RPW if we can get this "mod" done to factory headers.

Just wondering what your gain (loss?) predictions would be if the cats were replaced with high flow cats, with no change made to the extractors?
I ask this as my mechanic says the 380 chokes up around here, which is sending my oil (part-synthetic Valvoline 10w40 I believe, will find out tomorrow) black, thin and low after 10,000kms.
I have the Berklee on, of course

I don't think there is any way of replacing the two 'pre-cats' in the stock exhaust manifolds without major surgery, as they are integrated into the manifolds. You could possibly chop them out and replace them with pipe, but I'm not sure it would be possible to replace them with a pair of aftermarket high flow cats (200 or 100 CPSI). Even if it was possible I suspect it would be very expensive.
I suppose you could gut them, but then you'd need to replace the third 'dummy' cat with a real one. I don't know of anyone who has done any of these things (replace with cats, replace with pipe, or gut).
If you could do one of these things my guess is you would gain around 5kw atf.

I had the RPW's fitted a couple of months ago and my exhaust guy said they were relatively easy to fit. He also added a 3" cat back system with a Berklee Muffler which he says is the best available). I haven't had any measurements done yet but the car certainly accelerates faster. I currently have a vibration with the pipes at the cross over point but he is going to fix them tomorrow. My exahust guy has seen many extractors in his time. His comment about the RPW 's was."They look okay, but a bit rough around the edges. poor quality control". However, appearances can be deceiving and only time will tell. The total cost for me was $1400. So far it appears to have been worth the expense.

I had the RPW's fitted a couple of months ago and my exhaust guy said they were relatively easy to fit. He also added a 3" cat back system with a Berklee Muffler which he says is the best available). I haven't had any measurements done yet but the car certainly accelerates faster. I currently have a vibration with the pipes at the cross over point but he is going to fix them tomorrow. My exahust guy has seen many extractors in his time. His comment about the RPW 's was."They look okay, but a bit rough around the edges. poor quality control". However, appearances can be deceiving and only time will tell. The total cost for me was $1400. So far it appears to have been worth the expense.

Pretty much mirrors my experience and my exhaust guy's comments about the RPW extractors.
I also had a problem with the pipes touching & rattling where they crossed over (but only when cold, once the engine warmed up the rattling stopped). My exhaust guy fixed it by welding two small 90 degree angle brackets to the pipes, holding them apart by about 4mm.
Another problem I had which appeared about two years after I fitted the extractors was that one of the flexi joints had cracked internally. I was getting lots of exhaust gas odours but my exhaust guy couldn't find any leak, until eventually he cut open the pipes just past the flexi joints, poked his little optical fibre probe thingy in there, and found the internal crack. In the inner 'solid' wall of the bit of pipe which is covered by one of the flexi joints. He then cut out and replaced both flexi joints with brand new ones (did them both although only one was cracked), was a real work of art to fabricate and weld the new tubing at both ends of the new flexi joints while the extractors were still bolted to the block, and charged me nothing for the work or the parts!

That doesn't sound good but your guy was great not to charge you. MY guy said he won't charge me for fixing the rattle as he expected it particularly with the RPW's. I guess it just comes with the territory. I really hope they last longer than most people's experience. It is such a pity that there aren't enough 380's around to justify RPW having another Australian competitor who could build something of better quality . It is the same with Superchargers and turbos. No one is making them and if someone like Bullet or Raptor in QLD do make them it takes a fortnight and they need the vehicle!!

On the subject of extractors and cats. What difference would an aftermarket higher flowing third cat do sound wise on an otherwise standard exhaust system with just a straight through muffler? I was chasing a bit more raspiness without going for rpw extractors or taking the middle ressie out

On the subject of extractors and cats. What difference would an aftermarket higher flowing third cat do sound wise on an otherwise standard exhaust system with just a straight through muffler? I was chasing a bit more raspiness without going for rpw extractors or taking the middle ressie out

It would make SFA difference to the sound. But why bother replacing the 'white brick' 3rd cat if you still have the two pre-cats? It'll cost you at least $300 parts & labour for no perceptible difference.

Also, if you want more 'rasp' then yes, removing the ressie will do that, but at the risk of excessive drone. I wouldn't do it.

Edit - if you're keeping the stock exhaust manifolds with the two pre-cats, then your best bet for some increased flow with maybe a little more 'rasp' would be to cut the 3rd white brick cat out altogether & replace it with just pipe. That'll save you the cost of an unnecessary replacement cat (the two pre-cats do the job by themselves), and it's a fairly cheap 'cut & weld' job at your local exhaust joint.

Hi guys,

finally got the CEL problem fixed (so far). The exhaust guy fixed the vibration and checked the ECU the error message said "fuel too lean". I don't understand the technical stuff too well but he said he adjusted it and now the CEL is no longer there. I will be doing a 1000k drive this weekend so I will be interested to see what happens then.

It would make SFA difference to the sound. But why bother replacing the 'white brick' 3rd cat if you still have the two pre-cats? It'll cost you at least $300 parts & labour for no perceptible difference.

Also, if you want more 'rasp' then yes, removing the ressie will do that, but at the risk of excessive drone. I wouldn't do it.

Edit - if you're keeping the stock exhaust manifolds with the two pre-cats, then your best bet for some increased flow with maybe a little more 'rasp' would be to cut the 3rd white brick cat out altogether & replace it with just pipe. That'll save you the cost of an unnecessary replacement cat (the two pre-cats do the job by themselves), and it's a fairly cheap 'cut & weld' job at your local exhaust joint.

Thanks for the advice mate. I was toying at the idea of cutting the third cat out all together. Or maybe getting it gutted just so it still looks standard underneath. Both obviously not legal options. But come on, it already has 3 i'm sure if the third one wasn't there or gutted it would still pass emission tests?

Thanks for the advice mate. I was toying at the idea of cutting the third cat out all together. Or maybe getting it gutted just so it still looks standard underneath. Both obviously not legal options. But come on, it already has 3 i'm sure if the third one wasn't there or gutted it would still pass emission tests?

That's the thing, the third cat is a 'white brick' and doesn't do anything (as a cat) coz the Aussie 6G75 already passed Euro 3 emissions with just the two pre-cats. But it was too late/expensive to redesign the exhaust system without a third cat in place and MMAL decided to save a few $ and make the third cat a white brick (ie substrate but no rare metals doing any converting).
So gutting it or chopping it out does absolutely nothing emissions wise (so not illegal), but it might improve the flow a bit and release a couple more killerwasps.
Probably simpler to chop it out & replace it with pipe than to gut it, but if you want to keep the stock look then gut it, no-one except you and the shop you take it to will ever know even if they test your emissions.

Who said that the third cat does nothing. i was under the impression it was integral to the Catalytic conversion under the standard two stage conversion common in lots of cars.
IE the reduction catalyst in the precats where its nice and hot. and the oxidation catalyst further down the system to increrase its longevity.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter2.htm

Who said that the third cat does nothing. i was under the impression it was integral to the Catalytic conversion under the standard two stage conversion common in lots of cars.
IE the reduction catalyst in the precats where its nice and hot. and the oxidation catalyst further down the system to increrase its longevity.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter2.htm

Stormie,

Dave TJ and Jasons VRX (both ex-MMAL) have confirmed that the third cat on the 380 is a dummy, a 'white brick' which does nothing.

Got a set of RPW extractors fitted a couple of days ago with a welded 200 CPSI cat. Really happy with the performance gain and the throatier growl down low, but I've noticed that when it gets above about 4500rpm, the once throaty growl has been replaced by a tinny, whiney, rattley, loose kind of sound. Its pretty loud too and makes the car sound like a 2 stroke whipper snipper, or, shit. I see a few guys had issues with pipes hitting each other and resonance but only when cold, this is happening when the engine is warm (not sure about cold as I dont rev it that hard). This idea does make sense I suppose, more revs, more vibration, pipes making contact, could be a possibility but I'm not sure. Has anybody else had this issue or is this just the norm? I really hope not because it sounds terrible.

Stormie,

Dave TJ and Jasons VRX (both ex-MMAL) have confirmed that the third cat on the 380 is a dummy, a 'white brick' which does nothing.

I can confirm same as I got one analised to determine precious metal content and 4 of them came back as zero

Well I am going to book my car in to remove the third one and replace it with a pipe. I haven't looked under the car yet but there is no sensors after the the third cat is there? It won't throw any codes?

Got a set of RPW extractors fitted a couple of days ago with a welded 200 CPSI cat. Really happy with the performance gain and the throatier growl down low, but I've noticed that when it gets above about 4500rpm, the once throaty growl has been replaced by a tinny, whiney, rattley, loose kind of sound. Its pretty loud too and makes the car sound like a 2 stroke whipper snipper, or, shit. I see a few guys had issues with pipes hitting each other and resonance but only when cold, this is happening when the engine is warm (not sure about cold as I dont rev it that hard). This idea does make sense I suppose, more revs, more vibration, pipes making contact, could be a possibility but I'm not sure. Has anybody else had this issue or is this just the norm? I really hope not because it sounds terrible.

Give it a chance to bed in or so to speak. Once there is a coating of soot etc on the inside, the tinny sound should die down. It happened with mine after I changed my cat but after a while, it disappeared.

Thanks Vlad, I'll see how it goes. Hope is restored.