:nuts:

Sorry guys, I have quickly searched other threads, need HELP please.

I always have problems with the keyless entry (2002 Verada), put in a
new battery, try another remote, re-tune to the car etc.

It goes well for about a day and then it stops all together.

Is there another part of the puzzle that I am missing, all works fine on
the other 2003 Verada so makes me wonder if its something else??

HELP ME OBIWAN :woot:

WHen you reprogram it, does the car flash its indicators to confirm programming or does it just beep at you?

It should flash the indicators.

Mike

Yes mate, flashes all good. And works a treat for a day. Just cant figure it out mate.

Is there some responder in the car itself thats dying on me??? Pete

My TJ (2002) does this.

I have no idea why. Sometimes when the remote is in use, the security lamp will stay on all night. I think a reset of the battery may help.

Otherwise I have no idea. MY KH is perfect and now uses a 2002 ECU/BEM

Be warned however, if it is the BEM that causes it, then you will have to spend many $$$ for a new one that is not locked, or replace your keys/ecu/locks etc for a new kit as everything is all coded to each other.

You can unlock your immobilizer if worse comes to worse so you can just replace the BEM alone.

I think maybe you can get it checked by Mitsubishi, as this problem has stumped me with my TJ as well. I am certain it is the BEM.

Mike

Thanks Mike

Maybe someone else on the forum can heklp soon. Cheers Pete

Does the ECU greet you with an 'S' each startup?

Checked all fuses?

there is 3 things that might be wrong

one of your door sensors are playing up ( so open and shut all the doors acouple of times and include doing the bonnet and boot also )

the remote is on its last legs and you need a new one

the battery holder is not touching the borad correctly and it will only work half the time

Not sure if this helps but when I had similar problems I pulled apart the remote and found that the battery terminal connections (the posts connecting the battery to the circuit board were broken and just sitting on top and needed re soldering. Had to reset the remotes again and this 'repaired' my dodgy remote - (at least for another 6 months and I am a lousy solderer). Hope this helps.

I agree with mcs_xi, I think it might be a BEM issue. From what I hear, Commodores (namely VT-VYs) that show similar symptoms often need to have their BCMs replaced. I know they're different vehicles - different electrics, etc., but the basic ideas behind their Body Control Modules should be similar, so maybe their diagnosis and troubleshooting may show some parallels - in theory at least.

Mind you, BCMs in Commodores seem to be significantly cheaper to replace.

It won't be the remote as you have replaced it and still have the same issue. I found that due to my constant retard key-dropping, the terminals eventually gave way in the remote. It continued to work until eventually I dropped it and the terminals remained un-contacted for more than 15 seconds (there is a capacitor on the circuit board which holds the coding info between key and car while you switch batterys. More than 15 seconds and you need to recode it).

If it's a faulty BEM then it may be a big day out, as you will need to replace ECU, BEM, and keys I believe (going by what I've read when ones of these dies)

BUGGER

Doesnt sound like its gonna be good, if it was my car I think I would let it ride a bit.

However its the wife's car, and she aint happy.

Is it possible it could be loose connections from the door locking fuse or something easy like that??

Just swap the door open switches (down the bottom of the doors with the little rubber boots on them) from front to back as an expreiment to see if it helps.

Then you will rule each posible cause out.

In my case, my BEM is doing strange things it should not do. I have had the car since new, but it has had some voltage issues with a regulator before that could be a cause. So at the moment, it is simply lived with.

Mike

Usually this is either the remote or the BEM.

If you have swapped remotes and the suspect remote is working on the other car, then I would say is your BEM, only way to fix is replace the BEM (and all the rest lol)

Just wanted to say if you don't want to replace your bem,ecu and keys then alternatively you can install one of those aftermarket central locking kits.

They're usually quite cheap and would much the same thing the factory central locking system would. If you were good with wiring then you could probably make it activate the factory alarm system too or again get an aftermarket system.

Totally possible to have an aftermarket remote system on the BEM.

I have the keyless one in the KH working just fine.

If you buy just the remote pack (for like $40) you wire it to the Locking main wires from the drivers side key cyl, and then you will also retain your twin stage unlocking.

Mike

Usually this is either the remote or the BEM.

If you have swapped remotes and the suspect remote is working on the other car, then I would say is your BEM, only way to fix is replace the BEM (and all the rest lol)

Hi

Can you please tell me what is this BEM?? And also what the cost to fix this would be please?? Cheers Pete

Hi

Can you please tell me what is this BEM?? And also what the cost to fix this would be please?? Cheers Pete

BEM = Body Electronic Module. or Body Control Module (same thing - different name)

Straight from a google search:

In automotive electronics, body control module is a generic term for an electronic control unit responsible for monitoring and controlling various electronic accessories in a vehicle's body. Typically in a car the BCM controls the power windows, power mirrors, air conditioning, immobilizer system, central locking, etc. The BCM communicates with other on-board computers via the car's vehicle bus, and its main application is controlling load drivers – actuating relays that in turn perform actions in the vehicle such as locking the doors or dimming the salon overhead lamp.

In your case it's responsible for controlling the door locking system incl. the remotes and keyless entry.

In the TH/KH onwards magna's/verada's the BEM is mated to the ecu and immobiliser & keys. If any of these devices malfunctions, you need to get a new ecu,bem and keypack plus keys coded as once they are mated to each other they will not accept any other device. If you find a car that is being dismantled then alternatively you can rip out the ecu, bem & immob and install that into your car. Your glovebox & bonnet will need your original of keys though. Mal usually sells these as a kit for this purpose.

Alternatively you can bypass the BEM door locking functions by having an aftermarket locking system instead. This would be much cheaper but of course not a factory system. You either disconnect the bem from the door locking system and run the aftermarket one independently or you can wire in the aftermarket locking and/or alarm system so it activates the immobiliser. Mcs_Xi can explain further.

Cheers guys, will get a price of mal hopefully and go from there.

Well it could be good news, used the key from the kl and reprogrammed for the problem car and blamo, all good.

Could be that from 4 remotes only 1 is any good? Hoping that's it, will see if it lasts longer than 1 day?

I'm willing to bet it is a loose battery in the fob. The battery holder was designed poorly inside the remote key fob. If you are not delicate with taking out the CR2032 button cell the little retainer lugs break and then the remote will lose power when the battery works loose because you have jangled your keys, etc... This necessitates another pain-in-the bum reprogramming. I fixed this problem by putting piece of that double sided white adhesive tape n the shell of the remote fob to keep constant downward pressure on the battery. So far, after a whole year, all is well. Give it a shot. Other people have used the thinnest snaplock loop to do the same thing.

This is the BEST website to show you how to fix a Magna remote fob: http://martybugs.net/magna/remote.cgi

I'm willing to bet it is a loose battery in the fob. The battery holder was designed poorly inside the remote key fob. If you are not delicate with taking out the CR2032 button cell the little retainer lugs break and then the remote will lose power when the battery works loose because you have jangled your keys, etc... This necessitates another pain-in-the bum reprogramming. I fixed this problem by putting piece of that double sided white adhesive tape n the shell of the remote fob to keep constant downward pressure on the battery. So far, after a whole year, all is well. Give it a shot. Other people have used the thinnest snaplock loop to do the same thing.

This is the BEST website to show you how to fix a Magna remote fob: http://martybugs.net/magna/remote.cgi

Thanks mate, looks like thats it though. 4 remotes and only 1 work well. The one I am changed to use on the KL is now giving me grief, BUGGER

Thanks mate, looks like thats it though. 4 remotes and only 1 work well. The one I am changed to use on the KL is now giving me grief, BUGGER
Tell you what...if you are willing to spend about six bucks on Ebay you can buy a little RF detector which will tell you if your fob is putting out a signal...Check these out:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Anti-Spy-Hidden-Wireless-RF-Bug-Detector-Tracer-Finder-/270938576746?pt=AU_Gadgets&hash=item3f1532976a

Thanks mate, will try that me thinks. New keys are so expensive

Have you opened the remote to se if it is freq locked or has a "trimmer"?

If it has a trimmer it has drifted. Do the following USING A 100% PLASTIC SCREW DRIVER

Stand a few feet from the car
Hold down the lock or unlock button
Gently turn the trim screw back and forth until the unit responds
Move back a few more feet and repeat
Each time you do this and move back you are looking for the "sweet spot"


Rod