hey all

My car is a kf verada and was having some idling issues, after replacing leads, cap & rotor button and distributor, the car is now worse than ever. It is quite obious that i have done something wrong, so here goes....

1. ROTOR BUTTON: the rotor button sits on a triangular head.

QUESTION: is there a way to connect this on incorrectly? if so, how do i make certain it is in the right position.

2. DIZZY CAP: i am replacing a genuine mitsubishi one with another mitsubishi one. inside the cap, at the top and in the centre of the new one is a spring loaded piece of metal, this was not present on the existing one (there is something metal there, it just doesn't appear to be spring-loaded or stick out at all.)

QUESTION: Should it have been? or have i got the wrong one?

3. LEADS: because the car is relatively new (recently acquired, i should say) i checked the lead pattern against patterns i found on the net and they were not in the right order. i have since corrected this after replacing the above mentioned items (without taking down their original placement) and it has subsequently gotten worse.

QUESTION what is the correct order they should be in?

also after undertaking these changes, there is a very strong fuel smell coming from the car (seems to be coming from the air filter.

anyone help would be greatly appreciated and if you need more details, just let me know.

Thanks in Advance.

Jazack.

Possible misfire? You may have connected the leads wrong, which would cause the wrong pistons to spark at incorrect times/not at all, which would cause unignited fuel, which would cause what you can smell. Perhaps download the service manual, I'm sure it has the diagram for the leads.

Possible misfire? You may have connected the leads wrong, which would cause the wrong pistons to spark at incorrect times/not at all, which would cause unignited fuel, which would cause what you can smell. Perhaps download the service manual, I'm sure it has the diagram for the leads.

thanks for the reply, do you know where i can find the manual for download? i have been looking for ages - but no success

ok, on the dizzy there should be numbers on the face, 1-2-3-4-5-6, now the front of the engine is numbered 2-4-6 the rear of the engine is 1-3-5 hope this helps

thanks for the quick reply. dizzy cap is marked but i cant seem to see numbers on the engine.

if the rear bank is odd numbers - would number 1 be closest to/furthest away from dizzy cap?

number 1 is further from the dizzy, rear bank (closest to the firewall) so................

1 3 5
2 4 6


thats looking at the engine from the outside........if your still having problems, ill post a pic up for you

if your still having problems here is a pic of the firing order


http://i43.tinypic.com/flydv.jpg

thanks for your help.

now on the distributor i have numbers in the following order:

4 3
5 2
6 1

and when i hook the 1 to 1, 2 to 2 and so forth it is trying to start but wont.

*edit* just went out and turned the rotor button and it fires now.

But check engine light is on and goes away under light revving
And the car is still spluttering under normal acceleration.

How do i reset the car?

if you had the rotor button the wrong way then i would suspect damage being done to either to rotor button or dizzy cap itself, check the button for any chips or cracks, check the cap for any cracks, and chips on the contacts on the inside.

1. The rotor cannot be put on the wrong way.

2. This spring you speak of shouldn't be needed as I've never seen one.

3. The leads are most likely put on wrong, or you have a dodgey lead


Another possible outcome for rouch idling/running would be the MAF sensor.

Are you sure you put the distributor in properly?

You have to make sure the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC, then line up the marks on the end of the distributor that goes in the engine (there is a mark on the distributor shaft - rotate until it lines up with the mark on the distributor body). If you have done this properly, when the rotor arm goes in it should be pointing to cylinder 1 on that distributor cap.

Are you sure you put the distributor in properly?

You have to make sure the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC, then line up the marks on the end of the distributor that goes in the engine (there is a mark on the distributor shaft - rotate until it lines up with the mark on the distributor body). If you have done this properly, when the rotor arm goes in it should be pointing to cylinder 1 on that distributor cap.



these dizzys can only be put in 1 way, they kinda lock in to a key way section in the engine, so there is no manual movement on the dizzy for timing. so basicly it dosent matter where the motor has stopped, the dizzy cant go in wrong :)

I'm about to rip out and inspect my dizzy. Probably replace it too. So you're telling me its as simple as removing and then just refitting it. No alignment necessary?

I'm about to rip out and inspect my dizzy. Probably replace it too. So you're telling me its as simple as removing and then just refitting it. No alignment necessary?


umm pretty much, i was as shocked as you, im used to the old 253/308 V8s. get it to TDC on compression stroke, rotor button at number 1, then remove dizzy, then have half a dozen goes at getting the dizzy back in so the button sits at number 1, then move the dizzy to the correct timing. but not with the 3rd gen V6 its pull out, has a keyway, so cant go back in wrong, and cant move the dizzy for the timing. i was so worried about that when i had to do the O ring seal in the dizzy. also never worried about putting the engine to TDC, just pulled out the dizzy where the engine stopped.

Cylinders are in order from the front of the engine to the rear. The front is where all belts are(drivers side on magna) when you look at the leads you will see the cylinders don't sit directly opposite. They sit just off centre of each other. Cylinder number one is the cylinder that sits the closest to the front then 2nd closest is number 2 and so on and so on. If you think it's all hooked up right and still not right put old cap and button back on to see if anything changes.

Not sure what type of dizzy Ziek is talking about, but the dizzy for my KF looks like this:

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z447/peteroptions/distributortimingmarks.jpg

The marks are there for a reason. The manual also says to line up cylinder 1 at TDC.

i normally wouldnt bite on this, but im going to anyway, try putting that dizzy in back to front, it wont go, ive tried.

*edit* just went out and turned the rotor button and it fires now.

But check engine light is on and goes away under light revving
And the car is still spluttering under normal acceleration.

How do i reset the car?

Read this and thought to myself - I've had this happen when I didnt reconnect either the MAF or the larger vacuum line.

Possibly not related to your problem. Just thought I'd mention it. Leads on wrong = sounds like a diesel... if it runs at all.