I know there are heeps of posts on fixing and diagnosing oil pressure related problems.
Just wanted to see if anyone has had simmilar issues that have been fixed by just an oil change and new filter.

Brought a TJ advance with 42000 on the clock. Fould out that the Prev owner only serviced the car by Kms not by time. so found out that it was last serviced at 29000 and 3/2008 due 44000. What a joke.
Anyway When i idle in gear i get a flickering and somtimes solid oil warning light. once im underway or if i raise the revs to about 1000RPM it goes away. 2 times the oil light has been accompanied by lifter issues.

Just wanted to know if 4 year old oil and filter would cause this?

Changed the oil Today to Penrite 10w-40w synth and fitted a factory oil filter.
Would people think this will resolve my issue?

That car probably hasn't been driven much and had little chance of getting to a good operating temperature. It will be full of sludge, I imagine it will run a bit better but only a flush will clean it out properly. I bet the coolant and brake fluid, not to mention the trans fluid will be way overdue too. I bet it still has the original - now 10 years old - cam belt too, after all it hasn't done 100,000 Km yet!

I think you need to do some work on this car!

I think that i have warranty on it and i will be making sure they fix everything before its up. i will change all that i can to freshen it up and get then to fix anything else.

Personally I would not worry about the warranty as yet. First thing to do is get some of the Wynns Flush and give it a good idle for at least 30 mins on the flush, another new filter and new Penrite with some Wynns supreme. If still getting light also take out sender and pop an oil pressure guage in and get readings as could be sender issue as well

This is the issue with very low mileage cars, they get serviced every 3 or 4 years which is far too long given the short trips only lead to crap buiding up in the oil etc

When i droped the oil i strained it and found no junk in it :) but it was very thin even at cold temperatures. Ran it this morning and so far so good. I think i will do a flush and just o b on the safe side ill throw the gauge on it over the weekend.

Dose this model have a standrd thread for the oil swithch?

I can't help ya with the oil pressure switch thread, but sounds like a good flush will do it some good! Some TLC will get it back on track, If it was me & I had a bit of coin to spare I would definitely do a few other things; coolant flush, timing belt, external belts, tranny flush + filter, run some injector cleaner & throttle body clean perhaps, spark plugs etc.. Hopefully it should run as good as new after that, that's very low k's! Oh & maybe take it a good long drive with 98 octane fuel with some highway cruising.. certainly won't do any harm.

I can't help ya with the oil pressure switch thread, but sounds like a good flush will do it some good! Some TLC will get it back on track, If it was me & I had a bit of coin to spare I would definitely do a few other things; coolant flush, timing belt, external belts, tranny flush + filter, run some injector cleaner & throttle body clean perhaps, spark plugs etc.. Hopefully it should run as good as new after that, that's very low k's! Oh & maybe take it a good long drive with 98 octane fuel with some highway cruising.. certainly won't do any harm.

All of that plus I would do the front and rear spark plugs and replace that timing belt.

Thanks for all the advice. the oil light seems quite intermittent now. booking the car into my local dealer on wed to get the oil pressure checked and an inspection to see if there is anything else warrantyable on the car. Im not to worried about the light as the car runs so smooth. taps for about 1-2 seconds on Morning startup Have penrite 10-40 full synth at the moment will try the HPR10 next time. Seems to get good reviews here. belts and flush etc i will be getting to as money permits. Next is the tranny flush. Looks simple enough by the sevice manual (i like not having to remove the sump off the trans) while im arranging parts for the timing/tentioners etc. should be about a month and i will have compleated most major maintenance. Plugs will be changed soon but arent required at this stage. I wouldnt worry to much about invectors as the car dosnt miss and runs perfectly. will just run some 98 through it

Sounds like the way to go. So the oil light still comes on and it's still tapping on start up? Hmm. Hopefully when they check it out on Wed there is something they can do about that as it shouldn't do it at all especially with those k's.. but yeah maybe the next oil change could help.
I've never used Penrite so I can't say if it's that or not but heaps of members on here use it and recommend it, I think HPR10 is the most popular too.

Use HPR10 on that for sure. Run a bit of wynns spit fire through it. It's a good injector cleaner.

Sounds like the way to go. So the oil light still comes on and it's still tapping on start up? Hmm. Hopefully when they check it out on Wed there is something they can do about that as it shouldn't do it at all especially with those k's.. but yeah maybe the next oil change could help.
I've never used Penrite so I can't say if it's that or not but heaps of members on here use it and recommend it, I think HPR10 is the most popular too.

Oil light stays on for about 2-3 seconds in the morning and taps during this time. Once its up to opperating temp i get an intermittent flashing/solid oil light when idleing in gear. i only have to increase my rpms by about 200 for the light to go away.
I'm thinking that there are some restrictions somewhere causing all this. if thats the case and the oil pressure is suffering then it will be back to the caryard i brought it off with mitsubishi's recomendations for the fix.
I hate intermittent issues. would rather have a failure. Easyer to diagnose.

Pull the oil sender off and squirt/soak the port in engine degreaser, it's probably full of sludge.

Usually the oil light goes out while the engine is cranking and before it fires up.

If it's not the pressure sender switch, it could be a stuck high pressure release valve in the oil pump - only a pressure gauge can tell. If it is that, engine flush may loosen it.

PS Have you checked for a big dent in the sump, just about where the oil pickup is?

Checked and no dents in the sump. was 1 of the first things i checked. i think i will be soaking that port and see if i get any results. Oil light most times turns off but not all the time. will get the pressure checked and run a flush through and see how it all goes.

Thanks everyone for your input

Also may be an idea to remove the lower sump pan and check the pick up is not sludged up as well, if the car has gone for years between services this may also be an issue

Use HPR10 on that for sure. Run a bit of wynns spit fire through it. It's a good injector cleaner.

There is no such thing as a good injector cleaner for the fuel tank, the only way to clean injectors is to either remove them and ultra sonic clean them or use an onboard injector cleaner similar to what I use. The throttle in a bottle products are good for cleaning sludge out of the tank, they will clean some of the varnish out of the lines and also remove moisture but will do sfa to clean the actual injectors

For the injectors try a trade strength fuel system cleaner part number wfs. I bought mine from burson. It does the trick. It's a nulon product.

I think its funny that i keep getting info on injectors and cleaning when i have no issue with idling/power/missing or any of the above. LOL. Just tapping on startup for a few seconds after sitting for a while, and the oil preasure warning light.

I think its funny that i keep getting info on injectors and cleaning when i have no issue with idling/power/missing or any of the above. LOL. Just tapping on startup for a few seconds after sitting for a while, and the oil preasure warning light.

Considering only clean air flows past them and clean fuel squirts out of them, injectors should stay factory clean. Older cars with slightly leaking intake valves can have carbon built up backing into the intake and covering the injectors, and worn rings can feed oil back into the intake ducting through the PCV valve and conceivably gunge them up. But your car is nowhere near that age. lol
Some people get them cleaned as an act of faith. lol
Haven't needed to do mine on my TS at 245,000 km, ever.

Shine a torch down the oil filler cap and get some idea if/how much sludge is in there. If you see a lot, try the flush or pull the lower sump off to clean it out from the bottom up. Degreaser sprayed upwards and left to dribble the goo out works a treat.

Considering only clean air flows past them and clean fuel squirts out of them, injectors should stay factory clean. Older cars with slightly leaking intake valves can have carbon built up backing into the intake and covering the injectors, and worn rings can feed oil back into the intake ducting through the PCV valve and conceivably gunge them up. But your car is nowhere near that age. lol
Some people get them cleaned as an act of faith. lol
Haven't needed to do mine on my TS at 245,000 km, ever.

Shine a torch down the oil filler cap and get some idea if/how much sludge is in there. If you see a lot, try the flush or pull the lower sump off to clean it out from the bottom up. Degreaser sprayed upwards and left to dribble the goo out works a treat.

I know htis is not an injector thread but again Max has given an opinion that is clearly incorrect

not only clean air goes past an injector, there is all sorts of carbon build up in the inelt manifold that will cause blockages and bad spray patterns. Just because your car ran for 240k with no injector clean, well all I can say is I am sure glad it is not my car. Many hve had injector cleans here and felt a difference immediately as well as seen consumption drop as well.

Max have you ever taken the manifold off and seen all that black crap, that is not from clean air, you have EGR as well as breather hose pushing in air full of oil and blow by vapour, that is not clean air

Now, back to topic guys, this is a low oil pressure issue, not a thread where the OP has asked what he should or should not do with his car, if you want to start a topic (yes yet another one) about injectors, do a new thread as all further injector or other related rubbish will simply be deleted

this tapping noise, is it more like a dull knock?, i know this car hasent done many ks, but main and bigend bearings can produce a low oil pressure

It sounds like lifters but i could be wrong as its the first magna i have owned. I'm pretty confident it is lifter noise.
Here a some pics of inside the filer cap. to me looks clean (Compaired to my last few cars)
Maybe madmagna and max can tell me if this looks clean to them as they have seen more than me.
Would i get it much cleaner with an engine flush?



http://i.imgur.com/d9aVCl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jtOLml.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tKWEYl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/eDEURl.jpg

these engines are over head cams, so no lifters, would be nice though, would be an easy fix :P . im sure it would be nothing as drastic as bearings, but an internal knock/tick/rattle isnt a good thing to have. i would have tried a thicker oil, if it is bearing, the thicker oil can take up any bearing movement and produce a normal oil pressure with no knock.


but like i said, it may not be that drastic, see what others have to say in response

sorry ment hydrolic lash adjusters

That actually looks quite normal in there.

Wouldn't get much cleaner with a flush, but it might loosen up any stuck lifters, and clean out the oil pressure sender.

That is very clean to be honest, I have seen many much worse cars internally

These do have lifters as such, they are technically called a lash adjuster but often referred to as a lifter so no reason to correct on that

I think you really need to look into the sump and oil supply, do a proper cold start oil pressure test and go from there.

Started this morning and tryed to film the sound and would you have it. oil light was only on for a split second. lol. isnt that always the case. will try again the next few starts. Seems to have been getting less severe as the new oil works its way through.
I'm hoping that over time it may very well write itself.

as uauall did it when i least expected it. but i managed to capture it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ugfm1LehvU

I would not drive this car at all until I knew what the issue is

My money is on a blocked oil pick up tube or a sticking pressure relief valve in the oil pump. Now I have seen this I am not thinking is the pressure switch as they generally do not behave like this

Can i get to remove the oil pickup from only dropping the lower oil pan?
also it looks like the pressure releaf valve can be accessed near the oil filter from the outside. Is this correct?

If so i can remove them over the weekend and inspect this.

just a video of me comming to a stop once the car is at full opperating temp.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sj22opK3Oac

Totally agree with Madmagna, definitely wouldnt recommend driving it until you know what the issue is, way too risky, didn't sound healthy on startup. Is the oil level still on the full mark?
Did you end up getting the pressure tested today?

Yeah plenty of oil. level hasnt changed.
No didnt get around to it today. got called into work. will have to book it in next week sometime. i'm off for the school holidays.

I mite have to drive the hyundai untill i can get it looked at

I have looked for the oil pressure relief but could not find it. Do i have to remove the Aircon compressor to get to it?

The only other place i could see was a large plug that i would be able to undoo with an allan key. The manual isnt very helpfull as it has the valve comming up from below.

I could not see anything that i could remove from below.

Thanks

OK well there is only a few options left and i have dropped it off at the Dealer to get the rest looked at.

Took the lower pan off this morning. the pickup is as cleen as a whistle. put the pressure guage on it. ol pressure at idle and with about 5 min running time was about 25 psiand about 45 @2000rpm. The worst part is that it is not steady. it is fluctuating quite badly. about 10psi range.
I can only think that the ids iol pressure is falling even further once at opperating temp.

shoudl be resolved soon. Dealer mec seems to think its the pressure relief as we said it seems the most common.

OK well there is only a few options left and i have dropped it off at the Dealer to get the rest looked at.

Took the lower pan off this morning. the pickup is as cleen as a whistle. put the pressure guage on it. ol pressure at idle and with about 5 min running time was about 25 psiand about 45 @2000rpm. The worst part is that it is not steady. it is fluctuating quite badly. about 10psi range.
I can only think that the ids iol pressure is falling even further once at opperating temp.

shoudl be resolved soon. Dealer mec seems to think its the pressure relief as we said it seems the most common.

If it is fluctuating a lot, it's more likely to be the pressure relief spring that has broken.
The light comes on only if the pressure is very low, like 3 PSI. I wouldn't expect it to be on if you get 25 PSI at idle.

Anyone know the hot idle oil pressure a healthy engine should have? I think (IIRC) the pressure relief valve normally opens at about 60 PSI (???)

I rang the local mistubishi dealer and they said without all the cars details they couldnt till me the corect pressure.

Once this is repaired i will log the PSI pressures and put them in here.
as i said before the 25 psi was only after 5 min idleing. not opperating temp. basically still coldish

Well got a call from the dealers Mec and he is pulling the oil pump off to investigate. so at the same time i get a timing belt kit and will arange for it to go in only $160. belt, pullies and seals

Well got a call from the dealers Mec and he is pulling the oil pump off to investigate. so at the same time i get a timing belt kit and will arange for it to go in only $160. belt, pullies and seals

Good idea.. should be set then, hopefully they fix the issue

If there taking the pump off i cant see that they wont fix it while its off. even if the gears are worn they arnt expensive

Just an update. Well there is some problem with the pump. dealer cant quite explain it. basicly oil pressure is being releaved somewhere other than the relief valve. New pump has been ordered from Mits but im not sure if it will be ready tomorow. hope it gets here or i will be without it till monday.

how much have they quoted you to fix it up? I had a feeling it may of been the pump which is a bit of a bugger

I brought the car from a dealer and because of that i get the standard 3 months or 5000kms warranty.
No charge apart from the timing belt,seals and pullies which i requested be fitted seeing that they have to remove the belt anyway $160 for the kit and the labour is included.

Well oil issue seems to be fixed. changed the oil pump and the sender. new from Mitsubishi. original oil pump seems to have warped somehow. may have been a defect from factory. and got them to replace the sender wjile they were there.

Thanks for everyones help with my issue. now its new tyres and balance to see if it resolves a high speed vibration i'm having.

Good to hear all is good. That's odd with the oil pump.
Yeah vibration more than likely a tyre or alignment issue.

Mech said they have only ever dont 1 appart from mine. Very odd issue

Yeah. Makes me still wonder if it was a fault from factory or if it actually was caused by something, like using the same oil for 4 years or maybe a combination of both. At least by the sounds it hasn't caused any damage to other internals & all is back to normal.

My guess is only time will tell if it has done any long term damage. seems fine now. only 1-2 taps on startup not 40-50. oil pressure light goes out instantly.

Yeah. Has been great. now i feel better about the cost of the car. now to change the ryres and ballance to get rid of stupid high speed vibration