Hi guys
This morning my GT struggled the first time to start. Second time made buzzing sound but still didnt take. Third time started.
Now engine light is on. Still under warranty guess I'll be paying Mitsu a visit.
That could the issue be & how do you turn the engine light off?
Thanks guys.

The CEL will be

Crank angle sensor. you will be able to drive in limp mode. (engine will not go over 3K rpm)

This code will need to be cleared ( I have a OBD II scanner on my phone with a BT connection) and you should look at getting a new battery very soon

Had a chat to Mitsu, looks like it's the battery. Charging $185 fitted. I opted to source one myself. The guy I spoke to reckons the light will go away after battery replacement?

Had a chat to Mitsu, looks like it's the battery. Charging $185 fitted. I opted to source one myself. The guy I spoke to reckons the light will go away after battery replacement?

Yep, it will go away after you replace the battery.

Maybe not straight away, but within 200k of driving.

Replaced battery with AC Delco from www.extremebatteries.com.au upon referral from Mal.
Good as gold now, even gear changes alot smoother & matched to speed. Check engine light went off straight after I started her up.

Replaced battery with AC Delco from www.extremebatteries.com.au upon referral from Mal.
Good as gold now, even gear changes alot smoother & matched to speed. Check engine light went off straight after I started her up.

what model and CCA was that mate?

Extreme are an AC Delco dealer, I have used AC Delco for years and found them to be most reliable

When I replaced my battery couple of years ago I commented on improved gearshift. Most replies I got said it was a placebo effect. I was convinced it was not. CCA should be 660 I believe.

Extreme are an AC Delco dealer, I have used AC Delco for years and found them to be most reliable
yep, thanks . It's just that I spoke to Rod from Extremebatteries and it seems the battery he fitted to WDF's ride yesterday is a 530CCA. He has a 760 CCA, but doesn't sound like it will fit. Height is ok, but maybe too long. He's scouting around for what esle he has now..

BTW, I was just in at a Mitsi dealer today , who has a TMR on the floor for some reason, and I noticed that it has a heat shroud around the battery (looks sorta like kevlar). Rod mentioned that WDF's had this "Cover" and that's why he didn't think the 760CCA battery will fit. But I don't have such a cover.
Anybody else have this cover/shroud on thier standard 380? Should I get one from parts?
Also Rod (Extreme) has a 580 CCA AC-Delco that will fit the same as the factory, would this be a big difference to a 600 CCA?

I have a heat shroud on mine. Also the 660 CCA is factory spec I believe

I have a heat shroud on mine and it's a mere 2005 pov pack.

According to page 9-9 of my owner manual the stock battery is 600 CCA.

I fitted an Optima Redtop over two years ago, 800 CCA, still going strong.

But at $299 a pop they ain't cheap!

Also Rod (Extreme) has a 580 CCA AC-Delco that will fit the same as the factory, would this be a big difference to a 600 CCA?

About 3% :woot:

Yeah, I opted for the 530 on advice from Rod. Mal did mention to me
To at least get a 600........so much for following my own instinct..:(
Am i worse off with 530 though? Its a fully enclosed zero maintenance calcium unit. Car feels great.
What are the gains really? Besides being able to crack for a longer period of time? If a battery is capable of putting out 600cca how much does engine actually need to start.......150cca.......? Im no expert auto sparkies pls chime in.

I noticed the heat shroud/shield & it doesnt seem as if u can go much bigger than what i have in there now. Wouldnt be surprised if my dudd batt that came out was the original, didnt have any brand on it though. Apparently diamond is rebadged Exide.

Car drives much better now though, big difference.

When the ignition switch is turned to the "start" position, that's when the biggest current draw occurs. 300 to 400 A instantaneous current IIRC. Current draw goes down as the engine winds up.
The advantage of a 600 CCA or higher battery is that as it ages, it's capacity to supply the initial surge current goes down, but as you have a wide margin from new, the battery should last a long time.

I've used a 2 year old 300 CCA 7 plate battery to start a TJ 3.5L auto from cold. (emergency situation, original 550 CCA battery would not hold a charge). It will do it, but it struggles initially. It probably wouldn't last for more than 6 months if used on a daily basis. The voltage would drop too much on cranking and make the ECU very unhappy. lol

When I replaced my battery couple of years ago I commented on improved gearshift. Most replies I got said it was a placebo effect. I was convinced it was not. CCA should be 660 I believe.

New battery must have something to do with it. Also resets trip so could be this too. Transmission trying to figure out your driving style again.
I've also noticed that it's not as noticeable now when the torque converter kicks in. Before it actually felt like a gear change :eek2:

They managed to find 600 CCA AC-Delco (the poles on the 760 CCA were too far away from the tiny short cables) so I've wacked that in. At $120 fitted that's literally half the price the stealership quoted for the 75K service (and they used a backup battery to keep my mappings). Not sure what's going on but I've had a few anomalies that could be associated with a poor battery: my rear view camera started to flicker the first start after fitting and my idle was stumbling when I switched my interceptor on, I had to re-tune my AFR's, as they were suddenly too low (odd, as I would have expected them to be too high if anything)

Hey guys, i started this original thread. This battery died this morn after almost 4 yrs. Supposed that's ok'ish for a totally sealed no maintenance unit.
So extreme batteries are now shut permanently.
Where do you guys in melb buy from these days?